eMTB Options For 2024
- Thread starter Browneye
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Justt been out in the shed fitting tannus to sprog 3's wheel ( the one mentioned last week with the tubeless mess / busted spoke)
I'm getting better at this Tannus installation. In fact, that was quicker that a tubeless install, and most of the time was spent cleaning the old tubeless mess, fitting some new rim tape ( gorilla tape)
Soooo.....my ten Tannus tips:
1 warm the tannus +/- tyre - a few minutes in the Aussie sun works. This seems to help them flatten out and lose the kinks from packaging.
2 make sure everything in spotless - especially inside the tyre if it's previously been tubeless
3 LOTSA talc. Then a bit more. Both inside and outside the tyre, all over the tannus, the tube, my face.....
4 Tannus in the tyre, then fit the disc side tyre / tannus into the well. IN THE WELL. Don't let it creep up on the edge if the rim. Make sure no tannus is trapped between the tyre and rim.
5 insert tube, just enough air to prevent a pinch flat , NOT enough to be completely round. Slip the valve into the rim but leave the screw loose, slip the tube into the tannus.
6 Juggling time - start installing the outside edge , making sure to slip the tannus in UNDER THE TUBE and then that section of tyre. Working around in small bites, and ensuring the tannus does NOT get between the tyre and rim.
7 deep sigh....cross fingers.....one last push on the valve to ensure the tube is free.....another deep sigh
8 pump the tyre up until the tyre is evenly seated. Or 60 psi.....anything above 60 psi deserves a coffee / beer break and a rethink afterwards . Coffee fixes everything - leaving the tyre sitting at 60 psi worked!
9 contemplate the best way to do this trailside . I really do need to work put a way to run the handpresso auto off the bikes battery so I can have coffee trailside.
10 ask the collective - should I carry a full size spare tube so if I get a flat with tannus I can remove the tannus and go old style? Or just ride on the tannus with the flat?
I'm getting better at this Tannus installation. In fact, that was quicker that a tubeless install, and most of the time was spent cleaning the old tubeless mess, fitting some new rim tape ( gorilla tape)
Soooo.....my ten Tannus tips:
1 warm the tannus +/- tyre - a few minutes in the Aussie sun works. This seems to help them flatten out and lose the kinks from packaging.
2 make sure everything in spotless - especially inside the tyre if it's previously been tubeless
3 LOTSA talc. Then a bit more. Both inside and outside the tyre, all over the tannus, the tube, my face.....
4 Tannus in the tyre, then fit the disc side tyre / tannus into the well. IN THE WELL. Don't let it creep up on the edge if the rim. Make sure no tannus is trapped between the tyre and rim.
5 insert tube, just enough air to prevent a pinch flat , NOT enough to be completely round. Slip the valve into the rim but leave the screw loose, slip the tube into the tannus.
6 Juggling time - start installing the outside edge , making sure to slip the tannus in UNDER THE TUBE and then that section of tyre. Working around in small bites, and ensuring the tannus does NOT get between the tyre and rim.
7 deep sigh....cross fingers.....one last push on the valve to ensure the tube is free.....another deep sigh
8 pump the tyre up until the tyre is evenly seated. Or 60 psi.....anything above 60 psi deserves a coffee / beer break and a rethink afterwards . Coffee fixes everything - leaving the tyre sitting at 60 psi worked!
9 contemplate the best way to do this trailside . I really do need to work put a way to run the handpresso auto off the bikes battery so I can have coffee trailside.
10 ask the collective - should I carry a full size spare tube so if I get a flat with tannus I can remove the tannus and go old style? Or just ride on the tannus with the flat?
Now......anyone got any suggestions on how to get the stihl brushcutter going? Fixing the old fuel / blue smoke / dodgy plug lead/ verbal abuse and a big slice of aggression has only resulted in a few minutes . I really should learn to service all the garden tools at the start of spring
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
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- Mazovia, Poland
You discouraged me totally PDoz 
No Tannus! Never! And I thought tubeless installation was complicated...
No Tannus! Never! And I thought tubeless installation was complicated...You discouraged me totally PDoz
Should I dig out my 20 step tubeless tips? Actually, I think I've found way more than 20 ways to stuff up a tubeless install. I remember 1.5 hours at the lbs whilst he struggled to work out why sprog 3's front wheel leaked sealant. Multiple attempts, each time he'd talk through 2/3 common mistakes and think it was solved. I think it was 6 months later when I found the hairline split in the tape ( factory fitted) .
A successful tubeless install is slightly easier than a tannus install , but I've lost count of how many tubeless installs randomly went flat after a few hours / days / weeks. Touch wood....no flats yet with tannus .
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
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- Europe
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- Mazovia, Poland
No, just describe the regular tubed setup
No, just describe the regular tubed setup
How about 13 things to do with rubber? Would you like the first aid version or the adult version?
Browneye
Well-Known Member
More than likely the carb jets. Disassemble carb, remove jets, soak in carb cleaner, run a gas-torch reamer thru them. Make sure the float needle isn't stuck.
On bikes we would just replace all the jets. They get caked with old fuel residue. The more aromatic the fuel the worse they get. Newer fuel formulas completely suck, ethanol is the worst.
Yeah, that was my suspicion. / plan but this mornings ride was a bit linger than expected so I'm thinking it's time to let the shop do it
Which brings me to.....has anyone seen the stihl range of lithium powered garden tools? Their higher end products have some fascinating battery options, including 2000 wh back packs. Makes me wish there was a universal standard for battery tyoe / connections!
edit...looks like the brushcutter was listening - she fired up and ran like a dreammthis afternoon!
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Soo...I watched a mate exhaust his talent today. New trance advanced x29 ( analogue) , just one more run at the end of the day.... Three berms getting just a bit more ragged each , then he bounced off a tree and went over the bars.It was his 4 th crash for the day
He cracked the back of his helmet and lost some bark but I suspect considers himself lucky. He's already ordered a bell super air mips ( convertible) .
It got me thinking - I wear full face, elbow and knee guards, back protector in my camelback. I think my last gravity attack was in 2018. A life of high risk sports has adjusted my risk management strategies - maximum fun, but why take unnecessary risks?
He cracked the back of his helmet and lost some bark but I suspect considers himself lucky. He's already ordered a bell super air mips ( convertible) .
It got me thinking - I wear full face, elbow and knee guards, back protector in my camelback. I think my last gravity attack was in 2018. A life of high risk sports has adjusted my risk management strategies - maximum fun, but why take unnecessary risks?
Stefan Mikes
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- Europe
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- Mazovia, Poland
By the way, thank you for the advice. I'm wearing this helmet on my speed rides.
(It is in my avatar).
FlatSix911
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- Region
- USA
- City
- Silicon Valley
I waited to get additional off-road protection until I went down hard and tore my MCL... best to get with the program before an accident.
Now I ride with G-Force Knee and Elbow pads along with my MIPS helmet on every ride... may even add a full-face helmet for Winter rides.
FlatSix911
Well-Known Member
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- USA
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- Silicon Valley
What model helmet did you select? Is it convertible for road/off-road use?
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
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- Europe
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- Mazovia, Poland
That was the Bell Super Air R Mips Spherical. You can remove the chin-bar by simple unclicking of two levers and then you can ride in the lid only. The ventilation system makes the wind noise quite unpleasant when you ride in the lid alone. Therefore, I always wear the full-face setup that protects ears, too. (The whole idea behind the purchase has been to protect chin at high speed on-road, too). The helmet is lightweight as for a full-face one.
I advised Stephan to splurge on the bell super air instead of the bell super 3 r that I own . Both are great convertible lids but the newer design/ more expensive super air is lighter and has better ventilation.
I'd be perfectly happy to buy either, but the better ventilation would be worth the extra $100 ( oz) IMHO - riding in temps over mid 30's , I find the old 3r gets a bit warm.
If you look at the mtb forums , you will notice people getting stressed about the bell not being down hill racing certified . Make up your own mind if you will be racing and if having a stiff enough chin bar for the racing organisation to think it's safe.....for what it's worth , the leatt convertible lid usn't down hill certified either, and leatt was set up by a trauma surgeon.
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
Do you mean the peak?
Stefan Mikes
Well-Known Member
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, Poland
The beak, yes.
I'm pretty sure that at mere mortal speeds the peak just offers sun protection +/- the ability to deflect roost /mud / spiders. The ability to adjust peak angle is so down hill riders can still see when they look " up" ( ahead, which is sometimes down, or sideways.... depending on how much they are tempting the laws of physics)
The only helmet I've ever noticed any difference in ventilation due to peak possition was my motorbike adv Lid - an arai xd4 - and even then I gad tobe going silly speeds to notice the difference.
The only helmet I've ever noticed any difference in ventilation due to peak possition was my motorbike adv Lid - an arai xd4 - and even then I gad tobe going silly speeds to notice the difference.
Speaking of adv motorbike lids - wouldn't it be nice if they offered adv technology in a bike lid?
Something that could be used with or without visor ( the plastic screen) , with or without peak ( sun shade) and even have a chin piece that could easily be flipped up. Naturally we'll take the flip down tinted half screen sun shade things as well, bluetooth communication, and vents that slide shut to adjust ventilation.
I think my last adv lid was about $900 oz.....
Something that could be used with or without visor ( the plastic screen) , with or without peak ( sun shade) and even have a chin piece that could easily be flipped up. Naturally we'll take the flip down tinted half screen sun shade things as well, bluetooth communication, and vents that slide shut to adjust ventilation.
I think my last adv lid was about $900 oz.....
