BigMatt
Member
I got the ($105 on EBay) suspension fork installed per your suggestion. Not too bad. I’ll figure out how the hell to set it tomorrow.
It’s a different ride with the front ~3 inches higher. Not better or worse per say. Just different.
Ecotric 20" Folding Fatbike
- Thread starter harryS
- Start date
I got the ($105 on EBay) suspension fork installed per your suggestion. Not too bad. I’ll figure out how the hell to set it tomorrow.
It’s a different ride with the front ~3 inches higher. Not better or worse per say. Just different.
BigMatt
Member
This same thing happened to me when I got caught in the rain on the way back from a vacation with the bikes on a car rack. I had taken out the batteries and wrapped plastic bags around the display panels, but there was really no good way to cover the Ecotric controller box, which looks water tight, but is not. (The X-Treme E-Rider Mini Bike avoided all water infiltration.)
Well, the Ecotric bike started intermittently crapping out a day or so after I got back, and I couldn’t figure out what was going on until (after many less drastic steps first) I finally cracked open the controller and it was still moist inside. I used a powerful leaf blower for a few minutes until all perceived moisture was gone. It immediately started working fine (consistently) again. In the meantime, I had contacted Ecotric (or E-Go) through Amazon email, and they immediately responded telling me would send me a new controller. All they asked was they wanted to confirm my mailing address. That’s pretty cool and comforting for the future.
(I searched the Internet for a replacement for this controller and literally zero came up.)
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BigMatt
Member
I realized I didn’t install the fork correctly the first time. The (screw cap thingy) in the fork was lose (as I tried to re-use the one from the Ecotric) creating a loose steering wheel feel.
I finally figured out what it was called (headset Star Nut for fork - pic below) and ordered more of those parts on Amazon.
Also, using the same tension (wheel) locking mechanism that came with the rigid fork on the suspension fork put so much “squeeze” pressure on it that it locked the springs and the fork would not “unlock” or “bounce.” Thinking the fork was broken (or just a piece of crap), I felt it release tension when I took the fork off the wheel. I then realized I had to use the big wheel screw that came with the fork instead of the spring wheel lock that came with the bike. I got into the ball bearings and everything to get it replaced. Definitely a bigger and messier project than anticipated, but it all worked out. Now it rides really nicely on the fork. I tested it over a speed bump at ~10 MPH and it felt like riding over a garden hose... A week ago I hit that bump accidentally at 5 MPH and it almost sent me flying off the bike.
I was also able to remove the (Chinese branded) decal stickers on the fork. I was thinking about buying some RockShox stickers on Amazon and sticking them on the fork, but I’m not (quite) that vain or lame.
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BigMatt
Member
FYI - Air fork on ebay for $229 + $29 shipping. I think it’s compatible, but I’m in no rush to try this again anytime soon.
Suspension 20 In Bicycle Forks for Cruiser for sale | eBay
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harryS
Well-Known Member
Ecotric seems to be pretty supportive. That controller is probably only a $10-15 part wholesale though. To replace it on our own, probably impossible to find. It's really a fairly high current unit in a small box.
On my other ebikes (DIY), I put the controllers under the rear rack, where they were exposed to water spraying up from the tires. However, I also ran a bead of silicone seal around the seams. Also added a dollop of silicone where the wires enter the controller. After my Ecotric incident, I added fenders to those bikes.
I do need to go back inside my Ecotric and seal the new controller in a similar fashion. I didn't do that yet. I just wanted to get it working. The hole for cables in the front of the bike's compartment is probably where the water enters.
BigMatt
Member
I might do the same. Let me know how you do this when you’re done.
I ordered an Ecotric for my big brother for his birthday. He rode mine on a vacation last week, and he loved it. He lives in Austin, so he has nice bike riding weather year-round. (He’s 5’7” versus my 6’3” and it fit him comfortably with the seat down.)
I also got a Sondors Fold X so my wife and I can fat tire together. It will be an interesting compare/contrast with Ecotric. Sondors is ~2X price has 48/14 V/Ah battery and a better controller/display/PAS, and is reportedly lighter. We shall see if the Sondors is worth the 2X price delta.
If I do the fat tire air fork at some point, it might be on the Sondors.
I’m selling my (still new) Swagtron EB5 on Craigslist for $350, and I already got hits. I paid ~$400 on Prime Day and it’s now listed at $500. It already paid for itself several times over in saved Uber/Cab rides, so it could end up being a very good (short-term) investment
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BigMatt
Member
20” fat tire air fork(s) for under $100 on AliExpress:
US $94 | 20" Snow bike Fork Fat bicycle Forks Air Gas Locking Suspension Forks For 4.0"Tire 135mm 1800g
102.0US $ |20" Snow Bike Fork Fat Bicycle Forks Air Gas Locking Suspension Forks For 4.0"tire 135mm 1800g - Bicycle Fork - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
s.click.aliexpress.com
Doughnut56
New Member
plus shipping $44.13.20” fat tire air fork(s) for under $100 on AliExpress:
US $94 | 20" Snow bike Fork Fat bicycle Forks Air Gas Locking Suspension Forks For 4.0"Tire 135mm 1800g
102.0US $ |20" Snow Bike Fork Fat Bicycle Forks Air Gas Locking Suspension Forks For 4.0"tire 135mm 1800g - Bicycle Fork - AliExpress
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
BigMatt
Member
Noticed that when I went to order. I ordered anyway...
BigMatt
Member
I’ll end up using one (probably air fork) on my Sondors Fold X if it fits.
BigMatt
Member
Hi Larry,
I’ve come a long way as a bike mechanic since I successfully changed that Ecotric (rear flat) tire.
I just finished building this 26” fat tire Saigula bike ($450 on Amazon) into a beautiful ride electric bike ($375 48v 1200w Ebikling kit on Amazon) beast. Got it up to 30 MPH and it’s actually very smooth at 30.
I ordered the 48v (50 AMP discharge) 20 Ah battery from AliExpress (for $277) and it showed up in 10 days. Not bad from China. I switched out the rear brakes (upgrade), grips, crank arm (added a 60t), added a torque arm (mounted to frame rack), added the rear rack and bag (to house/hide the controller and battery, etc.
My first project a few weeks back was a similar Mongoose (700c) mountain conversion that runs great, but a Midwest winter is coming...
I also added an alarm that goes nuts if the bike is moved a mm when armed... A Chicago must!
Just thought a fellow tinkerer might appreciate this build.
BigMatt
Member
Here’s the Mongoose (impasse) bike build. The battery was a 15 inch long monster and all rear rack bags seem to top out at 14 inches...
So, I bought a motor cycle bag and rigged it all up to fit. Also, the rear suspension left few options for the rear rack, so this (less sturdy but effective) Thule rack was one of the only options. So far, so good on that bike.
I learned a lot from build 1 to build 2. The first build has a lot of metaphorical duct tape and bailing wire. The second was planned a lot better (actually designed) and more thought was put into how the pieces would fit together.
Thule Pack 'N Pedal Tour Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6RORTM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NewMDbV6BJM01
BigMatt
Member
Alright, I moved my 700c kit (and air fork) from the Mongoose mountain bike to a Trek (Verve Disk One). Wow, duh, but the Trek Bike rides 100X smoother...
I’m done for a while.
travlinjones
New Member
Hi. Looking at purchasing an X-treme E-rider mini and I’ve gotten discrepancies in the measurements. Since I’m just 5’ tall, it’s important I can comfortably ride this bike. Would you be so kind as to measure your e-rider and let me know minimum seat height, minimum handlebar height, and step over height at highest point (I have shorter than average legs). Really appreciate your help!I ended up cancelling my E-Joe order after getting the runaround from EBike joy for several weeks... Turns out the E-Joe EPIK SE is in very short supply if you want one any time soon...
In any regard, I got an X-Treme E-Rider 48v mini instead, and here’s my comparison vs the E-Joe.
X-Treme E-Rider 48 Volt Mini Folding Electric Bicycle vs. E-Joe EPIK SE
X-Treme E-Rider 48 Volt Mini Folding Electric Bicycle vs. E-Joe EPIk SE After going through a long and arduous due diligence process to find the ideal bike for my needs, I opted for the E-Joe EPIC SE for the following reasons: 1) Folding (for commuting and efficient winter storage). 2)...electricbikereview.com
As for comparison to Ecotric, it’s difficult. The E-Rider has a lot more zip (48 vs 36) and a much better suspension system. Still love the fat tire ride though. Ecotric is a better “mudder” bike and overall fun and smooth fat tire experience, but the PAS of the X-Treme is way better as is the controller/display. E-Rider is better for my commuting needs, but the Ecotric is better for many vacation needs and likely late fall and early spring city commuting. Not sure if Chicago in the mid winter will be doable or advisable for any bike though...
In any regard, I’m happy to give my wife dibs for either bike and just ride the other...
BigMatt
Member
Hi travlinjones,
I just got my tape measure and see the following:
The theoretical lowest seat positioning would be about 31 inches (assuming a ~4 inch thick seat from bottom to top). The top of the tube the post goes in is about 27 inches off the ground.
The potential problem for you is the seat post I have in it (and that I think came with the bike) is about 14 inches and only 7 inches of that can insert into the stem before the post bumps into to rear suspension below and cannot insert any more. With this 14 inch seat post, the lowest the seat can go is about 36 inches (from ground to seat top).
That being said, there’s a simple fix and that’s ordering a shorter seat post like this 9 inch one (Amazon link below). It ought to get the top of the seat down to ~33 inches. If you can find a 7 inch or shorter post, the height from the ground to the top of a seat would be ~31 inches.
- Minimum handlebar height is ~40 inches.
- Step over height (stepping over in the middle) is ~24 inches.
Hope that’s helpful. Good luck!
Action Steel 1X 9 25.4Mm Seatpost https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCGQFNH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gv0QDbM00VF5V
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bobn4burton
Member
harryS and BigMatt:
Was the original fork that came on your ecotric threaded or unthreaded? I'm thinking of getting the Lectric XP and wondering if adding a suspension fork could be an option in the future...similar to what you guys did?
I did see that the Lectric XP comes with a 1-1/8" threaded steerer tube so I'm not sure if that makes the fork swap harder? Or even possible??
Was the original fork that came on your ecotric threaded or unthreaded? I'm thinking of getting the Lectric XP and wondering if adding a suspension fork could be an option in the future...similar to what you guys did?
I did see that the Lectric XP comes with a 1-1/8" threaded steerer tube so I'm not sure if that makes the fork swap harder? Or even possible??
harryS
Well-Known Member
The Ecotric is threadless.
It's possible to convert threaded to threadless. I did it with my old Trek. On a folder, you would have to change out the threaded folding stem to a threadless unit. A good one is probably 80 bucks, The ones they sell for $22 on ebay/amazon look pretty flimsy to me, and that's one part that needs to be really strong.
It's possible to convert threaded to threadless. I did it with my old Trek. On a folder, you would have to change out the threaded folding stem to a threadless unit. A good one is probably 80 bucks, The ones they sell for $22 on ebay/amazon look pretty flimsy to me, and that's one part that needs to be really strong.
BigMatt
Member
Hi Harry and/or other tinkerers,
I’m seeking feedback or comments about an all wheel drive (front and back motor wheel hubs) EBike configuration on the (Saigula) fat bike pictured below (now with proper fenders and winter-proofing).
I have the 1200W (Ebikeling) kit rear wheel install already on my 26 inch fat bike set up with left grip twist throttle and PAS. I get decent but not great acceleration/torque (bike and I are heavy) and a reasonable but not great ~26 MPH top speed. 26 MPH is more than enough 90% of the time, but there are moments I wouldn’t mind having a temporary turbo that gets me a little boost.
I’m going to install a 1200 W front wheel motor as well using a right thumb throttle for an all wheel drive. Think of the front as a “turbo” for acceleration, hills, or open road speed maximum. The rear that has the PAS is where the brake lever motor cutoffs will stay. It will be remain “all-the-time” main source of power.
The rear has a 48v 20 AH battery. The front will have a smaller 48v 10 AH battery with the assumption the rear will get at least twice the work as the more sporadically used front (e.g., acceleration, hill assist and/or periodic 5th gear).
There will be two batteries, two controllers, two motors. (All batteries and controllers in rear rack trunk bag.) Only the rear wheel will have PAS and connections to the brake lever cutoffs. The front will use the more basic/smaller LED display as it’s only for battery measurement and throttle while the rear (LCD) will stay the main display/trip computer.
Harry or anybody else try or ponder this type of configuration? If so (or not), are there any pitfalls I’m missing or other thoughts?
For example, I was thinking it might make sense to hook up one brake power cutoff lever to one hub and the second lever to the other hub (front brake to front hub and rear brake to rear hub), but to me the notion of cutting PAS power on braking is more important (for safety) than cutting thumb throttle-only power. Presumably the the thumb throttle has less ambiguity about what you’re trying to do (speed up or slow down) than a PAS where you may still be slowly pedaling while wanting to slow down.
Thoughts or comments would be appreciated. Thanks!
Edit: It appears the brake levers can be spliced to two separate controller wires, so one brake lever can be configured to direct two controllers to kill power.
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