Ecotric 20" Folding Fatbike

How to maintain the bike? Mechanically, I think the bike is quite stout. The derailleur has a little swivel guide for the shift cable, and I've never seen that on a low end unit. The fake leather grips are nice.

I would say .. keep the LCD unit dry in a plastic bag if you transport on a car rack.

Don't leave the battery at full charge for weeks at a time, especially in hot weather Probably OK for winter. Ride it right after a full charge, or the day. Better to recharge when half empty than when full empty. For general battery safety, don't leave the charger connected after it's charged the battery,
 
Greetings all from Chicago...

Thanks, Harry, and others for this thread. It helped me get over the hump on ordering the Ecotric Fat Tire Folding Bike to replace my Swagtron EB5 which is serviceable but a little hard on my butt (235 pounder). Well, I’m blown away by the ride of the Ecotric. Really enjoy it.

I actually ordered the E-Joe epic se a week ago, but I realized the wife was going to start bogarting it, so I went looking for a budget but comparable bike to the E-Joe (which still hasn’t arrived yet). Also, having 2 quality bikes allows us to ride together without one of us getting butt hurt on the Swagtron... That’s where the Ecotric comes in. Well, gotta say I love the Ecotric fat tire ride, so we’ll see which bike I choose to commute with more and which I leave for the wife to ride. I’ll do a comparison of the Ecotric and E-Joe here in a few weeks if anyone is interested.

In any regard, I was wondering if you guys had a recommended suspension fork (make and model) for a big guy (6’ 3”, 235 pounds) like me. I plan to take the Ecotric off road a little bit (on vacations out of the city), so I may want to make that adjustment. I’m a handy guy, but I haven’t spent much time messing with bikes since I was a kid, so your expertise would be appreciated. (Even the Swagtron was a recent purchase for me.)

Thanks all.
 
Hi BigMatt. Look forward to hearing how you feel about the Ejoe too.

My wife prefers her folder with 20 x 2" tires. I do too with mine (20 x1.75") , but there are days when the Ecotric, now known as the Panzer Bike gets ridden.

I've installed cheap $100 26" spring forks on my mountain bikes. They're not intended for off road, but mainly for rolling up curbs. They are as good though, as the shocks that come with department store bikes. They soften the ride and that's why I got them. Shocks for jumping off rocks cost more than my bikes.

I was just chatting with another Ecotric owner. WHen I bought my forks, 20" fatbike air forks were available on ebay for $120 (sometimes under $60), and spring/oil forks were around $100. Today, the spring forks prices look like $140-160 and no air forks available. This might be seasonal. Those sellers watch each other and set prices accordingly. I was looking at a Schwinn Loop folding bike at $220 on amazon a month ago. Now $440 on ebay. Anyway, prices are higher now.

I was excited to get air forks for the fatbike. No experience with them. I had to get a special purpose air pump.I haven't experimented much with pressure, but I can make the shocks really soft,. Much more adjustment than what's on my GT Transeo, hybrid. I wonder if setting them that soft will hurt the shocks. Anyway, the Radmini uses inexpensive oil/spring shocks and it seems good enough, but Iwanted at least one component better than what's on a Rad.
 
Hi BigMatt. Look forward to hearing how you feel about the Ejoe too.

My wife prefers her folder with 20 x 2" tires. I do too with mine (20 x1.75") , but there are days when the Ecotric, now known as the Panzer Bike gets ridden.

I've installed cheap $100 26" spring forks on my mountain bikes. They're not intended for off road, but mainly for rolling up curbs. They are as good though, as the shocks that come with department store bikes. They soften the ride and that's why I got them. Shocks for jumping off rocks cost more than my bikes.

I was just chatting with another Ecotric owner. WHen I bought my forks, 20" fatbike air forks were available on ebay for $120 (sometimes under $60), and spring/oil forks were around $100. Today, the spring forks prices look like $140-160 and no air forks available. This might be seasonal. Those sellers watch each other and set prices accordingly. I was looking at a Schwinn Loop folding bike at $220 on amazon a month ago. Now $440 on ebay. Anyway, prices are higher now.

I was excited to get air forks for the fatbike. No experience with them. I had to get a special purpose air pump.I haven't experimented much with pressure, but I can make the shocks really soft,. Much more adjustment than what's on my GT Transeo, hybrid. I wonder if setting them that soft will hurt the shocks. Anyway, the Radmini uses inexpensive oil/spring shocks and it seems good enough, but Iwanted at least one component better than what's on a Rad.
Thanks, Harry.

Do you think these (unbranded air forks link below on ebay) have the specs to fit the Ecotric? $115 doesn’t seem too bad. Also, any downside to air forks over springs for bigger riders?

This one comes in black (and white), so I think it will be a decent match for my black bike.

See link:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/253042094666
 
Last edited:
Do you think these (unbranded air forks link below on ebay) have the specs to fit the Ecotric?

Those didn't show up last weekend. From the second picture.
1) Diameter is 28.6mm which is 1.125 inch ( 1 1/8"). That's the diameter of the Ecotric fork stem.
2) Fork dropout is 135mm, which is your typical fatbike length, also the one sued by the Ecoctric.
3) Stem length is 350mm (35 cm) How long is the Ecotric head tube? It's about 6-7 cm. Plenty of length here.

What they don't tell you is the distance from the axle to the top of the crown. It's a few inches longer than your standard fork, but this will compress with weight. Nonetheless, expect front of the bike to be higher.

I had read somewhere all the jump-off-small-cliffs folks like air better, and call spring shocks pogo sticks, but most of us have pogo stick shocks on our consumer bikes, but we're not doing what they do.
 
Last edited:
Those didn't show up last weekend. From the second picture.
1) Diameter is 28.6mm which is 1.125 inch ( 1 1/8"). That's the diameter of the Ecotric fork stem.
2) Fork dropout is 135mm, which is your typical fatbike length, also the one sued by the Ecoctric.
3) Stem length is 350mm (35 cm) How long is the Ecotric head tube? It's about 6-7 cm. Plenty of length here.

What they don't tell you is the distance from the axle to the top of the crown. It's a few inches longer than your standard fork, but this will compress with weight. Nonetheless, expect front of the bike to be higher.

I had read somewhere all the jump-off-small-cliffs folks like air better, and call spring shocks pogo sticks, but most of us have pogo stick shocks on our consumer bikes, but we're not doing what they do.

Thanks, Harry. Ordered and on the way.

By the way. I got a flat in the back tire rolling over a metal screw yesterday so I get to take off the back wheel now as well to put in a new tube I had to order on Amazon because seemingly no bike shop in Chicago carries 20x4 inch fat tires or tubes. It couldn’t have been the front wheel, which is much, much easier? I watched a YouTube video on how to take off the back tire of a hub motor EBike, and it looks simpler than I expected. Any pointers you have taking off the back wheel of this bike specifically would be appreciated.

A brand new bike, and I roll over a screw within the first couple of days of ownership! The air leaked out when it was parked, so at least the wheel itself didn’t get damaged. The tire looks okay, except for the tiny hole that closed up when I pulled the screw out. I think I just need to replace the tube. Is there any patching to the tire for the tiny hole (Tiny/closed up) that can/should be done?

I folded it up and put it in the back of my Acura MDX to get it home. A folding bike readily comes in handy for flat tires far from home, which is something I hadn’t considered.
 
Well,
By the way. I got a flat in the back tire rolling over a metal screw yesterday so I get to take off the back wheel now as well to put in a new tube I had to order on Amazon because seemingly no bike shop in Chicago carries 20x4 inch fat tires or tubes. It couldn’t have been the front wheel, which is much, much easier? I watched a YouTube video on how to take off the back tire of a hub motor EBike, and it looks simpler than I expected. Any pointers you have taking off the back wheel of this bike specifically would be appreciated.

Ace hardware has a tire patch kit for around 3 dollars. They work well on tubes if you follow the instructions and let the glue dry before applying the patch.

I've had the rear wheel off twice to change tires. There's a round connector in the motor cable that pulls apart to facilitate a wheel removal. It has two molded arrows to line up the pins. A common mistake is not seating the pins fully when reinserting. Also switch off battery first. You can leave the plug on, but I always unplug.

You will want to use plastic bike tire levers to remove the tire. Screwdrivers will scratch the rim and poke holes in the tube. I have broken the plastic levers on bigger fat bike tires, so I bought steel core levers, but plastic ones should work on these smaller tires.

The axle nuts are 18mm, I believe. You just have to loosen them enough to remove the wheel. If you do take off the nuts and washers, make a note on how the washers are oriented, as you will forget how it went together. And you want them tight on re-assembly. If they're loose, the wheel will throw them off, spin its way thru the slots on the frame, and pretty much destroy the wiring and bike. The videos probably explain all of that, and how much to tighten, etc.

The tire should have an arrow to indicate rotation direction. Still, I manage to get it wrong half the time. Old age.
 
Ace hardware has a tire patch kit for around 3 dollars. They work well on tubes if you follow the instructions and let the glue dry before applying the patch.

I've had the rear wheel off twice to change tires. There's a round connector in the motor cable that pulls apart to facilitate a wheel removal. It has two molded arrows to line up the pins. A common mistake is not seating the pins fully when reinserting. Also switch off battery first. You can leave the plug on, but I always unplug.

You will want to use plastic bike tire levers to remove the tire. Screwdrivers will scratch the rim and poke holes in the tube. I have broken the plastic levers on bigger fat bike tires, so I bought steel core levers, but plastic ones should work on these smaller tires.

The axle nuts are 18mm, I believe. You just have to loosen them enough to remove the wheel. If you do take off the nuts and washers, make a note on how the washers are oriented, as you will forget how it went together. And you want them tight on re-assembly. If they're loose, the wheel will throw them off, spin its way thru the slots on the frame, and pretty much destroy the wiring and bike. The videos probably explain all of that, and how much to tighten, etc.

The tire should have an arrow to indicate rotation direction. Still, I manage to get it wrong half the time. Old age.

Thanks, got it off and the hole in the tube was small, so I tried the patch kit from Ace. It slowed, but it didn’t stop the leak immediately, so I’ll give it some time. I’ve got a new (2 pack) of tubes coming tonight (1 Day Amazon) anyway. It’s not bad to have a backup supply on hand. I might even keep one in the bike with a wrench, tie strip, and allen key. It’s way easier so far than I thought. The snarky guy at the bike shop (that didn’t sell fat tire tubes) made it sound like you had to be a NASA engineer to figure it out.

I was able to get the tire off easily without removing the nuts on either side, so thank goodness I didn’t have to remember the order of all the washers/hardware. One good thing about having a camera on your phone is you can take a picture so you can have a lousy memory...

EDIT:

Getting it back on was a little trickier, but I managed. I used it as an opportunity to adjust/optimize the breaks and gears.
 
Last edited:
Hi BigMatt. Look forward to hearing how you feel about the Ejoe too.

I ended up cancelling my E-Joe order after getting the runaround from EBike joy for several weeks... Turns out the E-Joe EPIK SE is in very short supply if you want one any time soon...

In any regard, I got an X-Treme E-Rider 48v mini instead, and here’s my comparison vs the E-Joe.



As for comparison to Ecotric, it’s difficult. The E-Rider has a lot more zip (48 vs 36) and a much better suspension system. Still love the fat tire ride though. Ecotric is a better “mudder” bike and overall fun and smooth fat tire experience, but the PAS of the X-Treme is way better as is the controller/display. E-Rider is better for my commuting needs, but the Ecotric is better for many vacation needs and likely late fall and early spring city commuting. Not sure if Chicago in the mid winter will be doable or advisable for any bike though...

In any regard, I’m happy to give my wife dibs for either bike and just ride the other...
 
Nice folder. It's hard to find third party rear racks for full suspension bikes. especially folders. Does Bikeberry have them>

My wife stuck with her full suspension folder with 20x2" wheels. They used to be 20x1.5", but I changed them over to wider tires for packed gravel (Illinois Prairie Path), but we haven't been back on gravel for months. I hear you about the riding season ending in about 8 weeks. I haven't brought my bike down to the Lakefront yet this summer.

36774

I changed out the Ecotric controller for a LCD/controller with 5 level PAS ($55 from PSWpower.com in CHina, but they take paypal). The connectors differ, so there was a lot of splicing., but the replacement fit, and I took the opportunity to shorten a lot of the cables. I chose to use the smaller LCD1 display, although there is a larger LCD3 on my wife's bike that is much better (same price), I kept the little bike computer as the LCD speed is about 5% optimistic,

36775
 
Nice folder. It's hard to find third party rear racks for full suspension bikes. especially folders. Does Bikeberry have them>

My wife stuck with her full suspension folder with 20x2" wheels. They used to be 20x1.5", but I changed them over to wider tires for packed gravel (Illinois Prairie Path), but we haven't been back on gravel for months. I hear you about the riding season ending in about 8 weeks. I haven't brought my bike down to the Lakefront yet this summer.

View attachment 36774

I changed out the Ecotric controller for a LCD/controller with 5 level PAS ($55 from PSWpower.com in CHina, but they take paypal). The connectors differ, so there was a lot of splicing., but the replacement fit, and I took the opportunity to shorten a lot of the cables. I chose to use the smaller LCD1 display, although there is a larger LCD3 on my wife's bike that is much better (same price), I kept the little bike computer as the LCD speed is about 5% optimistic,

View attachment 36775

This type of rear rack (seat post connection-only) works fine for me as I will never need or want to carry more than ~20 pounds on it. Easy to attach (no attaching to frame or wheel base) and detach (quick unlock) as needed. It fastens surprisingly securely despite the single point of (seat post) connection. I have one on the Ecotric and the x-Treme E-Rider Mini and they work great (with the linked mount bag below).

UPANBIKE 22lbs Capacity Mountain Bike Bicycle Adjustable Length Rear Rack Quick Release Mounted at Seatpost Luggage Carrier Cargo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0747J9S79/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zxAwDbM7EGWCN
COTEetCI Mountain Road Bike... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DHHNK6F?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Is the PAS on that new 5-speed controller very smooth on level 1 and 2? My main beef with the OEM Ecotric controller is that PAS 1 has too much acceleration and speed.

Do you have the product name/model info for the 5 speed controller used on your wife’s bike? (Is it this one? http://www.pswpower.com/ven.php?cargo.2019-3b-fpj2) Also, where is the controller hidden?

I attached an inexpensive speedometer on the Ecotric (link below) that has a sufficiently long wire to work even when the handle bars are fully extended. You just have to update the wheel circumference on the inputs (in MM), so I finally was able to apply my high school geometry skills. 23 inch diameter wheels x25.4 (1 inch = 25.4 MM) X Pi (3.14159) to calculate tire circumference, so the Ecotric’s 23 inch diameter tires have a 1,835 MM circumference. The linked speedometer (and bike computer) below has MPH and KM/H.

DREAM SPORT Cycle Computer Wired, Accurate Speedometer for Bike with Trip Distance and Timer, Waterproof Durable Bicycle Computer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HGX61WM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0HAwDbNARGQPB
 
Last edited:
I use this one. Only need an LCD, I used the Ecotric's throttle, brakes, PAS sensor and speed sensor (in the motor). I chose the basic LCD1 but could have had the LCD3 (which I already had on other bikes) for the same price, and that displays temperature, voltage, and wattage, and according to the manual (never tried it) allows the power to be set anywhere between 50-100% . Assume the color 850 display is similar. The display/controller will have the right plugs, but one has to splice in the other five connectors. I've been doing this for a while, it's probably not for someone who hasn't soldered. Maybe I'll describe that sometime.


Without the advanced LCD, The sinewave controller has a more basic two level setting like the Ecotric via a jumper. Set at low, I can ride slowly at 10 mph in PAS 1 vs 12 mph in the high mode with the newer controller. As mentioned, with the right LCD, it's much more adjustable.

Actually, I already had the controller as a spare for my other ebikes, so I might not have done the conversion. I had installed the microswitch on the Ecotric controller jumper wires for low/hi power and that tones down the PAS1 response.
 
Nice folder. It's hard to find third party rear racks for full suspension bikes. especially folders. Does Bikeberry have them.

I got this rack to work (on Amazon) and it attached nice, tight and sturdy. It has no directions and a bunch of adapters (most of which I didn’t use). I think it can be configured to pretty much fit on anything if you’re mechanically inclined...

1566366768975.jpeg

Ventura Universal Bike Rack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NGF4W4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EInxDb1EGZ1N6

These cheap mudguards are a nice touch too: SKS Rowdy 20-24" Set BLK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013CVZGC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U1nxDb9FXD0HE


Also, these 2 forks just showed up on Amazon. The former is pricey. The ladder is cheap and Prime. I’m not sure how it would fit a 20, 24 or 26 inch fat tire though???

MDZZ Mountain Bike Suspension Fork Straight Air Plug Bounce Adjustment Snow Beach 20inches (Color : Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W635P5J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tLnxDbWECCG0V

Bike Snow Fat Fork - Fat Aluminum Suspension Bicycle Fork Fit 264.0" Tire for Snow & Beach Cycling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D36Q7J1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wMnxDbSDTB9ZE
 
Greetings! I would be curious to know how much it has cost to do all these modifications, and how much that has added to the original cost of the bike. The reason I am curious is that I wonder about buying a folder like the Ecotric (which is currently unavailable) and then having to purchase add-on features, vrs. buying a Rad Mini for example, which comes feature-complete. I've just recently put in a pre-order for a Lectric XP at $899 because it appears to have everything except a suspension fork. I am not terribly handy nor sophisticated enough with electronics to make many modifications such as the ones I see here, although reading and learning about them have been fascinating.
 
Also, these 2 forks just showed up on Amazon. The former is pricey. The ladder is cheap and Prime. I’m not sure how it would fit a 20, 24 or 26 inch fat tire though???

MDZZ Mountain Bike Suspension Fork Straight Air Plug Bounce Adjustment Snow Beach 20inches (Color : Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W635P5J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tLnxDbWECCG0V

Bike Snow Fat Fork - Fat Aluminum Suspension Bicycle Fork Fit 264.0" Tire for Snow & Beach Cycling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D36Q7J1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wMnxDbSDTB9ZE

I have the first one. Here it is on ebay for $120. I wanted an air fork, if I was going through the trouble to change.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists).

Your second one is mislabeled. It's really a 26" fork. I have seen this style of non-air 20" fatbike suspension fork on ebay for about $89-$99. I believe it is the same caliber of suspension fork you might find on the Radmini, Scooze, or XP Lectric, but I could be wrong.
 
Last edited:
Greetings! I would be curious to know how much it has cost to do all these modifications, and how much that has added to the original cost of the bike. The reason I am curious is that I wonder about buying a folder like the Ecotric (which is currently unavailable) and then having to purchase add-on features, vrs. buying a Rad Mini for example, which comes feature-complete. I've just recently put in a pre-order for a Lectric XP at $899 because it appears to have everything except a suspension fork. I

If you keep the fat tire and air them low, you probably won't care about a suspension fork. These kinds of forks are for pavement. Mine had a label that said offroad, jumping, etc was not allowed.

My costs:
$700 Ecotric 20" fatbike (he sent the wrong color and I accepted a $75 rebate vs making him replace).
$120 AIr fork
$ 70 Smaller tires/tube (personal choice)
$ 34 52T crank with longer arms (not really needed).
$ 60 controller with display.

I bought the new controller over a year ago. It was $21 and I purchased three of them to amortize the shipping. If I didn't already have it. I wouldn't have converted. I did have to buy a new LCD for $25 plus $12 shipping. Add a few bucks for bell, lights, mirror.

Since the Lectric XP is already 48V and has an LCD, you're equivalent to the original Radmini, which didn't have suspension either.

I think the Lectric XP is a good alternative to a Radmini and probably better than the 36V Ecotric. Having the battery in the frame makes it sleeker, but that will limit your options when a replacement is needed, should the seller go away. It will be available, but harder to find. I don't mind the old style battery under the seat, and those packs are pretty cheap.

What Bigmatt found was that a 3 level PAS is fine til you ride a 5 level PAS. Then you want that. Well, my first ebike is still 3 level PAS and it happens to be the right strength for that bike (26" Trek) at my speeds. On the Ecotric, it's a little too strong in PAS 1 with the speed restrictor unconnected.
 
@harryS Thanks for your reply. Very helpful. I had a 2019 RadMini but circumstances meant I had to relinquish it to one of my sons who needed transportation other than a car. In considering a replacement, I ran across the Lectric XP, which looked too good to be true when compared with the RadMini. The Ecotric seemed to lack too many essentials for me (integrated lights, 36v battery) although the price was tempting. Watching how you turned the Ecotric to something sweet-looking, though, made me think twice. But given what I've seen you've done and the price to get it done, I'll stick with the Lectric XP (esp since the Ecotric folder is not available with no date being given for the next availability). I wish I had your ebike acumen, accumulated no doubt through much experience.
 
Having the battery in the frame makes it sleeker, but that will limit your options when a replacement is needed, should the seller go away. It will be available, but harder to find.

This is a very good point. I actually bought a second battery for the X-Treme E-Rider Mini because of the highly specific battery dimensional needs. I’ve gone though enough battery powered devices over the years to know how much it would stink to have an otherwise perfectly functioning EBike become an expensive paperweight because the battery dies and the battery is either extremely expensive (because its supply is scarce) or just not available altogether...

It also doubles your range on the occasion you may want to go on a super long trek (keeping the charged spare in your rack bag). Call it range paranoia/insurance...

I think the best thing to do is probably to swap the batteries every couple of months and leave the idle battery about 20% away from fully charged. Any suggestions you have, Harry, on maximizing battery life by swapping 2 batteries periodically would be appreciated. Although, I suspect leaving a battery in the closet entirely unused for several years (until the first one craps out) might not be good for its lifespan.

I also bought a second battery for the Ecotric battery with the expectation I might not want to always want to wait 5+ hours to charge.

Of course, the risk in all of this is you want a new bike in a couple of years and you ended up paying for batteries you don’t need. It’s a calculated bet that the bike life survives the battery life.
 
@harryS Thanks for your reply. Very helpful. I had a 2019 RadMini but circumstances meant I had to relinquish it to one of my sons who needed transportation other than a car. In considering a replacement, I ran across the Lectric XP, which looked too good to be true when compared with the RadMini. The Ecotric seemed to lack too many essentials for me (integrated lights, 36v battery) although the price was tempting. Watching how you turned the Ecotric to something sweet-looking, though, made me think twice. But given what I've seen you've done and the price to get it done, I'll stick with the Lectric XP (esp since the Ecotric folder is not available with no date being given for the next availability). I wish I had your ebike acumen, accumulated no doubt through much experience.

FYI - The Ecotric is available again on Amazon. (19 in stock).
 
Back