E-life Cruiser broken front hub motor

[jojo12]

Hi folks , I have a E-life cruiser bike that the motor is broken on .The connector on the end of the wheel the motor is attached to has 6 pins,I have looked on amazon and ebay for a replacement but they all seem to have 9 pins? Any help or advice on what my options are would be really appreciated !

thanks

jojo

 

[harryS]

A six pin connector could imply that it's a sensorless motor (three large pins) plus a speed sensor (three pins), That would require a sensorless controller too. If this is true, and the controller still works, then any motor would work, except you would have to connect only the three pins, and the speed sensor.

Take it to a shop or a guy that knows how to fix ebikes. They could quickly sort it out before you buy parts that may not work, By the way, I've run a sensorless controller with a sensored motor for a couple of years, That bike is in storage right now,

How do you know the motor is dead, and not the controller?

 

[jojo12]

Thanks for the fast reply Harry ,

Im not sure , but it happened when my deraileur was broke so like a fool I rode the bike to the repair shop winding the pedals and using only the motor so I didnt have to walk it there , afterwards the motor seemed to just be dead but now I can feel some kind of mechanical resistance/noise when the wheel is rotated by hand?

As for any motor working , the ones that are on ebay/amazon are usually a kit , are they all the same diamater as in will it fit between my forks? I cant seem to find one that gives such measurements, they all look like there would be coming from china .

 

[John from Connecticut]

A six pin connector could imply that it's a sensorless motor (three large pins) plus a speed sensor (three pins), That would require a sensorless controller too. If this is true, and the controller still works, then any motor would work, except you would have to connect only the three pins, and the speed sensor.

Take it to a shop or a guy that knows how to fix ebikes. They could quickly sort it out before you buy parts that may not work, By the way, I've run a sensorless controller with a sensored motor for a couple of years, That bike is in storage right now,

How do you know the motor is dead, and not the controller?

Hello,
I agree with 'harryS'.....From a repair and safety ( electrical) standpoint ) I would try and find
a competent Local Bike Shop that services e-bikes and is willing to work one your bike. That may
difficult. I'm assuming your bike was purchased from a Big Box Retailer or Online ?

Often times LBS can't or won't work on bikes purchased from the above because of the
difficulty getting parts and or support if needed.

Good luck,
John

 

[harryS]

Right, you might find a better price for the whole motor kit, with controller, PAS sensor and handlebar display. The standard fork width for a non-fat tire motor is 100mm. Stay with the same power you already have.

You can try a simple motor test. With power turned off, it should spin freely if the wheel is turned forward. Turn the wheel backwards and you should feel it spin with some fraction from the gears. If it seems to fight you turning backward, unplug the motor cable. If the wheel now spins freely, there was a short circuit upstream from the connector, either in controller or motor cable. If it still feels very stiff, there is a short circuit in the motor.

If the motor spins nicely backward with or without the cable plugged in, then unplug the cable. Try it with any two of the three thick pins on the connector bridged. This simulates a short circuit, It should get stiffer. Do all three possible bridge connections and it should stiffen on all three. This test, if passed, says there are aren't any short circuits in the windings. Motor is probably OK.

The first two minutes of this video illustrates the testwhere you bridge the thick pins. You don't need to remove the wheel. Just spin it upside down in the fork, but make sure you don't damage amy ebike controls on the handlebars by putting weight on them.,