Cushioned seat post options

[redhotlava]

Hello again

I'm new to everything biking here, and wondering if:

A.) anyone has the SR SUNTOUR SP12 NCX SEATPOST
B.) is it something that stacks up well against other options for what it does?

Just looking for an upgrade and smoother, softer butt bounce in that department, thanks

Along with that, is there a more comfortable seat option out there than what comes with the Radmini or would something like this seat post make a big difference first, before upgrading or swapping out the seat?

Thanks again!

 

[AHicks]

Personal call, but i would do the seat first. Check out the Cloud 9 (C9) options.

 

[Alaskan]

You've got it right...seat post first. it will make the biggest difference. Next do the saddle, that gets more personal. My advice - forget about gel and big cushy seats. A firm seat that conforms to your anatomy is far better when combined with padded shorts. Brooks, Selle Anatomica (what I use) are good places to start.

As to seat posts, the Body Float by Kinekt (formerly cirrus cycle). is the gold standard, with interchangeable color coded springs based on your weight, it is heads and shoulder the most effective. I have read reports on the suntour about very short service life because of worn bushings and metal wear. The thud buster works fairly well but still cannot be dialed in to your weight and riding style nearly as well as the body float.

Here is photo of my combo.

 

[redhotlava]

Personal call, but i would do the seat first. Check out the Cloud 9 (C9) options.

As always, thank you again Hicks

 

[mrgold35]

I had to go with the combo of:
- 420mm Bodyfloat v2.0 orange springs adjusted to around 3-4 float position
- Cloud 9 12.5X11.5 Cruiser seat
- MTB shorts
- spandex (thigh length summer, full length winter)
- padded shorts

The standard Radrover seat was just too hard and put too much pressure on the "sensitive" parts. Other things you can do is:
- adjustable handle bar stem like Sunlite 0-60 degree stem if you are leaning forward too much
- biking shoes like Northwave MTB Escape Evo. Stiffer shoe bottom, very comfy, and x-mitt less road vibration compared to my Nike running shoes
- padded gloves, comfort, lessen numb hands, and safety for falls.
- adjusting PSI: Could smooth out the ride a little bit in the 17-18 range with the Kenda tires
- changing out the tires. Upgraded to Vee8 120tpi tires with 21-23 psi and they a very soft and smooth at any speed.

I started out with the same above combo; but, originally had the 400mm Suntour SP-12 NCX. That is a very good suspension seatpost for $100 and the 80%-85% solution compared to the $250 Bodyfloat. I don't think I noticed much of a difference between both suspension seatpost with larger bumps like uneven concrete/asphalt, undulating hardpacked trails, or when you transition from road to sidewalk at speed. The bodyfloat really pulls out ahead of the Suntour with smaller rhythmic bumps like washboard/pockmarked trails, ripples, brick/cobblestone roadways, uneven surfaces like sidewalk cracks or poorly maintains asphalt, or any uneven surface that would drive you crazy with vibration.

I think you get more small vibrations with the Suntour because you are still sitting on-top of the spring and small vibrations are still being transmitted to your bottom. The Bodyfloat isolates you from those small vibrations as you let the (e)bike "float" under you.

 

[redhotlava]

You've got it right...seat post first. it will make the biggest difference. Next do the saddle, that gets more personal. My advice - forget about gel and big cushy seats. A firm seat that conforms to your anatomy is far better when combined with padded shorts. Brooks, Selle Anatomica (what I use) are good places to start.

As to seat posts, the Body Float by Kinekt (formerly cirrus cycle). is the gold standard, with interchangeable color coded springs based on your weight, it is heads and shoulder the most effective. I have read reports on the suntour about very short service life because of worn bushings and metal wear. The thud buster works fairly well but still cannot be dialed in to your weight and riding style nearly as well as the body float.

Here is photo of my combo.

View attachment 25109

Wow, that looks impressive! Thanks for attaching the photo Alaskan, that's pretty slick! And thanks for sharing your opinion, much appreciated.

 

[Alaskan]

By the way, if you put that much money into saddle and post, get a short security cable you can tie into your main lock. It will deter casual opportunity theft.

 

[redhotlava]

By the way, if you put that much money into saddle and post, get a short security cable you can tie into your main lock. It will deter casual opportunity theft.

Thanks for that, I surely will once I make that upgrade.

 

[redhotlava]

I had to go with the combo of:
- 420mm Bodyfloat v2.0 orange springs adjusted to around 3-4 float position
- Cloud 9 12.5X11.5 Cruiser seat
- MTB shorts
- spandex (thigh length summer, full length winter)
- padded shorts

The standard Radrover seat was just too hard and put too much pressure on the "sensitive" parts. Other things you can do is:
- adjustable handle bar stem like Sunlite 0-60 degree stem if you are leaning forward too much
- biking shoes like Northwave MTB Escape Evo. Stiffer shoe bottom, very comfy, and x-mitt less road vibration compared to my Nike running shoes
- padded gloves, comfort, lessen numb hands, and safety for falls.
- adjusting PSI: Could smooth out the ride a little bit in the 17-18 range with the Kenda tires
- changing out the tires. Upgraded to Vee8 120tpi tires with 21-23 psi and they a very soft and smooth at any speed.

I started out with the same above combo; but, originally had the 400mm Suntour SP-12 NCX. That is a very good suspension seatpost for $100 and the 80%-85% solution compared to the $250 Bodyfloat. I don't think I noticed much of a difference between both suspension seatpost with larger bumps like uneven concrete/asphalt, undulating hardpacked trails, or when you transition from road to sidewalk at speed. The bodyfloat really pulls out ahead of the Suntour with smaller rhythmic bumps like washboard/pockmarked trails, ripples, brick/cobblestone roadways, uneven surfaces like sidewalk cracks or poorly maintains asphalt, or any uneven surface that would drive you crazy with vibration.

I think you get more small vibrations with the Suntour because you are still sitting on-top of the spring and small vibrations are still being transmitted to your bottom. The Bodyfloat isolates you from those small vibrations as you let the (e)bike "float" under you.

Mr. Gold, thank you very much for taking the time with the detailed info.

1st thing I'm doing before riding this week is lowering the tire pressure a bit. Part of my struggle is, as you described, the trail I ride is basically a very rough paved trail. It's thin, cracked, runs over tree roots, potholes, etc for the majority of the trip. I first increased the tire pressure to get more speed/distance etc, but after I've started riding, the speed is the the last thing I need at this point. The bike is actually too powerful to be riding full blast on the turns, curves, etc, on this trail, which is part of the fun. I LOVE riding this trail into work because it's not boring at all. I just need some help on the butt-bumps in transit.

I will definitely look at your suggestion but I'll be tackling the seat post/seat here first. Very interested in the body float now that you guys have pointed to it.

It's definitely a learning curve here for me, and I thank you all for your comments and suggestions.

Thanks again Mr. Gold.

 

[DDBB]

Buying the body float seatpost for $250 is a lot cheaper than buying full suspension on the bike in most cases... I'm also debating on going full suspension or front only with a suspension seatpost.... I have a cheap one my dino bike and even the cheap ones makes a big difference

 

[marksp]

By the way, if you put that much money into saddle and post, get a short security cable you can tie into your main lock. It will deter casual opportunity theft.

Looks like you’ve also removed quick-release in favor of hex bolt as further deterrent.

 

[SteveC]

Thanks in advance for revisiting the Body Float by Kinekt 2.0 for the Radrover.....

Which size fits Radrover? Short (350mm) or Long (420mm) as I noticed 2 available Kinekt size options. The Suntour seat post option offered by Radpower is 400mm.

Does the stock 31.6mm diameter fit or are available shims needed??

 

[mrgold35]

You will need the 27.2 mm seatpost diameter for the Rad Power Bikes. I went with the 400mm Suntour and then to the 420mm Bodyfloat because I'm 6'3". I have my 420mm Bodyfloat seatpost at max extension for riding comfort. My 4'11" wife had the opposite issue with the Radrover and she couldn't use the bodyfloat or Suntour because she needed her seat down to the frame to ride (zero room for suspension part). We both use the Could-9 12.5X11.5 Cruiser seat and that adds a little height to the seatpost. I purchased the Radcity Step-Thru for her and was able to put the Bodyfloat+Cloud-9 on there. She even had to raise the seat a little bit for comfort.

The thing I noticed when riding was my 400mm Suntour is about the same length or a touch longer compared to my 420mm Bodyfloat set to float position. I think the reason why is the Suntour sits on top of a spring+head unit and you "bounce" on top of that. The Bodyfloat has an option to dial in the amount of float you want; but, max float lowers the seat to get the right amount of range of motion. I think my Bodyfloat would be too short at my height if it came in 400mm length once I adjusted for max float.

It might be worth getting the 420mm Bodyfloat if you want max float and if you are over 6 feet, long legs, or have a shorter/thinner aftermarket saddle.

 

[Tom899]

I'm also using a BodyFloat with a Serfas seat, I like the combo after trying many seats. I know seats are very subjective.

 

[redhotlava]

I'm also using a BodyFloat with a Serfas seat, I like the combo after trying many seats. I know seats are very subjective.
View attachment 25178

Dang that thing looks super comfy! How do you like it?

What's the handle-ma-jig you got on the battery there?

 

[Tom899]

I find it very comfortable.
That's a stock Mini battery for 2017, handle included.

 

[Bluefood]

I'm thinking about scrounging thru a junk yard for a skinny 'leaf spring' , and off set 4 to 6 inches backwards and then mount my (softer) seat

 

[larry-new]

I'm wondering how to optimize my setup, which will differ from many in that my riding is 100% road. I just reached 300 mi. on my Rad City, and went to a Bikeroo seat and Bikeroo gel cover as option. It wasn't long before the cover was staying on all the time, and still I'm sore after 20 mi.

I don't think a sprung seatpost will help, but may try another seat. I'm a proponent of the connection between seat and bar position, and have flattened out my adj. stem and am waiting for Ergon 3 grips to arrive.

A long time ago, a Brooks seat was the way to go for all-day comfort, but I'm not 30 anymore, not by half...(71). Ordered a Brooks B17 Imperial (w/.cutout)...we'll see.

 

[E-Wheels]

[QUOTE="Ordered a Brooks B17 Imperial (w/.cutout)...we'll see.[/QUOTE]
Good call on the Brooks. I’ve got one on my commuter

 

[larry-new]

By the way, if you put that much money into saddle and post, get a short security cable you can tie into your main lock. It will deter casual opportunity theft.

A thin cable ski lock will do...