Creo Pedal Strikes

[mschwett]

I've been loving my Creo to death, but as a newbie to cycling I'm wondering if there's anything (other than technique) that can be done to minimize pedal strikes? Is there anything about the geometry of the Creo that makes these more likely? It seems essentially impossible to pedal through a fast turn on this bike without hitting a pedal on the inboard side - I have to be very careful to not lean much (makes it hard to turn fast!) if I want to apply any power through the turn.

Narrower pedals? Pedals with shorter stems? Slightly shorter crank? Or is this just all "rider error?" It's become second nature to pedal to "inboard-side-up" when on a fast downhill, but I really like to power through flat and uphill turns.

Frame is an XL, pedals are Shimano PD-T8000. It looks like Speedplay or Eggbeaters pedals are much smaller in both key dimensions.

 

[eddief]

Those are big, clunky pedals. And there is nothing I know of in the Creo geometry that would make pedal strike more pronounced. I ride an XL with m8100 Spd pedals and have never even come close to scraping the pavement. Maybe try some double sided regular mountain bike pedals https://road.cc/content/review/shimano-deore-xt-pd-m8100-spd-pedals-272943

 

[mschwett]

Those are big, clunky pedals. And there is nothing I know of in the Creo geometry that would make pedal strike more pronounced. I ride an XL with m8100 Spd pedals and have never even come close to scraping the pavement. Maybe try some double sided regular mountain bike pedals https://road.cc/content/review/shimano-deore-xt-pd-m8100-spd-pedals-272943

Great feedback, thanks. I was imagining that I'd ride the bike without bike shoes a lot of the time, but that hasn't turned out to be the case. Will get some smaller pedals. I've probably hit the ground on the inboard side once every other ride.

 

[JeffC57]

I've been loving my Creo to death, but as a newbie to cycling I'm wondering if there's anything (other than technique) that can be done to minimize pedal strikes? Is there anything about the geometry of the Creo that makes these more likely? It seems essentially impossible to pedal through a fast turn on this bike without hitting a pedal on the inboard side - I have to be very careful to not lean much (makes it hard to turn fast!) if I want to apply any power through the turn.

Narrower pedals? Pedals with shorter stems? Slightly shorter crank? Or is this just all "rider error?" It's become second nature to pedal to "inboard-side-up" when on a fast downhill, but I really like to power through flat and uphill turns.

Frame is an XL, pedals are Shimano PD-T8000. It looks like Speedplay or Eggbeaters pedals are much smaller in both key dimensions.

I have a Creo CC EVO in XL. I use double sided MTB pedals, Shimano M8040. No clips, just spikes and the pedals are fairly narrow. My shoes are 5 10's and the spikes dig into the soles fairly well. Obviously not a speed demon setup here but I don't get pedal strikes. YMMV.

 

[jodi2]

The M8040 seem almost as wide as the PD-T8000, so maybe it depeneds also on the rider an his/her habits?

I have also an XL Creo Evo and I'm riding mostly offrad/gravel (where I had problems with other bikes) and was worried about the long cranks/175mm at the XL Creo. But not one pedal strike in 9 month so far.
My pedals are somehere between two sides SPD like PD-M8100 and the "fat" ones above.
But the Evo version use also wider and therefore higher tires than the road Creos.
But you can change the cranks to shorter ones and if you don't have the S-Works Creo, these Praxisworks alloy cranks aren't very expensive.

 

[eddief]

I forgot. I actually changed out the crank arms on my bike from the original 175 to 170. Maybe that's why I don't get pedal strikes. Duh. I think Specialized sells crank arms as spare parts or maybe these from Praxis will do the job - see #4: https://praxiscycles.com/product/alloy-ecranks/ Only $65 for a pair!

 

[mschwett]

Interesting. Thanks @eddief and @jodi2

I ordered some smaller footprint pedals, will see how that and a little less powering through turns treats me. Shorter crank is interesting, since I don't have the carbon cranks that could be worth exploring for two reasons.

 

[Allan47.7339]

I think it's more of a technique question since you said you were new. You get into the habit of inside pedal up as you corner. A light pedal strike is a warning. Eventually you will crash and/or break the pedal if you don't pay attention. You will crash because with a solid strike, the pedal and crank arm will lift the rear of the bike off the ground.

 

[mschwett]

I think it's more of a technique question since you said you were new. You get into the habit of inside pedal up as you corner. A light pedal strike is a warning. Eventually you will crash and/or break the pedal if you don't pay attention. You will crash because with a solid strike, the pedal and crank arm will lift the rear of the bike off the ground.

thanks, probably so.

but does that mean one simply can’t pedal through a hard turn? i don’t have any problem with it if i’m coasting

 

[Luto]

Once a ride is WAY too much.

Couple of points.

Maybe your line through the turn is not very good. It should be optimized. It is hard to describe because it is very dynamic process. It takes practice.
Maybe your speed is wrong. Greg Lemond was known for saying, if you can pedal through your turn, you did not enter the turn fast enough. He was a racer though.
Maybe your skill is not honed enough. In 40 years I have had two pedal strikes. I would check out You tube for some technique tips.

There is only a very small timeframe where you CAN strike in a proper turn. Why? because if you have your weight properly distributed between the pedals, the inside leg is going to be UP. If it is down, you are not weighted right or the turn radius adjustment (shallow, deep, shallow) and pedal timing is not right.

Hope that helps.

PS: Falling from a pedal strike is no joke, you will slam down pretty hard and slide out and forward for some good road rash. Please don't do it.

 

[Captain Slow]

I use Eggbeaters and have never had a pedal strike, but as I'm not racing I typically coast through turns with the inside pedal at 12 o clock when I'm leaning quite a bit.

 

[jodi2]

I also wouldn't feel very good for the motor/drive with frequent pedal strikes with an SL or Fazua system compared for example with a hub motor...

 

[Allan47.7339]

thanks, probably so.

but does that mean one simply can’t pedal through a hard turn? i don’t have any problem with it if i’m coasting

Just to respond to your question, NO you cannot pedal through a hard turn. You will need to briefly pause peddling with the inside pedal up in the 12 o'clock position as Luto stated previously and pay serious attention to his slam down hard and road rash (if your are lucky) comment. If you strike the pedal hard you will crash in the blink of an eye and may even slide across the lane.

 

[mschwett]

Just to respond to your question, NO you cannot pedal through a hard turn. You will need to briefly pause peddling with the inside pedal up in the 12 o'clock position as Luto stated previously and pay serious attention to his slam down hard and road rash (if your are lucky) comment. If you strike the pedal hard you will crash in the blink of an eye and may even slide across the lane.

Thank you Allan. Very helpful. It's become pretty intuitive to go to 12 o'clock on the inside pedal at the start of a turn, but I still have to fight the urge to pedal hard past the apex, like you would in a car

No pedal strikes on my last few rides.

 

[Alaskan]

I have experience a few pedal strikes early on and considered myself warned. I did not like the idea of shortening my leverage on the crank with shorter pedals. That seems like a big price to pay in power just to be able to power through turns I could not power through before.

Of course wrecking a bicycle or worse, sustaining a severe injury, just for the thrill of pushing the envelope and powering through a turn you have already entered with sufficient speed to require an amount of leaning into the turn that risks a pedal strike. I mean in a race with money at stake maybe, but on a fun or exercise ride, it just is not worth the risk/reward ratio, at least to me.

I just push down on the outside pedal and keep the inside pedal up when entering a turn at speed I know will require a lean where there might be a risk of pedal strike. About one or two seconds after I see the bike straightening back up, I pedal through the balance of the 2nd half of the turn. I use thin, flat pedals with pins on my gravel/road Cannondale Topstone Carbon Neo 3 which also help mitigate the risk.

 

[PedalUma]

I tried something today while waiting on the top story of a big parking garage for our group ride to assemble. On a slope I tried coasting down while cutting figure eights. Pedaling forward or back to always keep the inside up. It was fun and could serve as good muscle memory practice for others. My first pedal strike was on my first road bike at a tender age. I never wanted to repeat that lesson. It was while doing high-speed laps on a tennis court. I ate it, spinning a 180 of flesh, break dancing style, into the tarmac.

 

[Alaskan]

I tried something today while waiting on the top story of a big parking garage for our group ride to assemble. On a slope I tried coasting down while cutting figure eights. Pedaling forward or back to always keep the inside up. It was fun and could serve as good muscle memory practice for others. My first pedal strike was on my first road bike at a tender age. I never wanted to repeat that lesson. It was while doing high-speed laps on a tennis court. I ate it, spinning a 180 of flesh, break dancing style, into the tarmac.

Ouch!!! Pain is a good teacher though....if the student is listening.

 

[mschwett]

Like Fred Flintstone?

lol, touche.

perhaps pedal is the wrong word. but, you know, brake before the turn, accelerate out of the turn...

 

[Luto]

lol, touche.

perhaps pedal is the wrong word. but, you know, brake before the turn, accelerate out of the turn...

You get that acceleration by adjusting the line of your turn. There will be a reserve of centrifugal force force in the bike-frame, your body, and tires. Gradual start, tighter, tighter to the point of not washing out, and then releasing.

 

[mschwett]

getting into the habit of not pedaling through tight turns, as much as i'd like to all around the city's very steep hills and 90 degree intersections! haven't had a pedal strike in a couple rides now.

i figured i'd do a little weight reduction and try and increase clearance a bit anyway, so i switched to the 170mm carbon crank from the 175mm alloy one, as well as speedplay zero pedals from the pd-t8000. feels very different, i have the float at the max but will probably reduce it a little bit. feels more like a single point of energy transfer rather than the flat surface i'm used to! total savings is 318g, or .7lb! not insignificant for a 26-30lb bike. next up, lighter tubeless tires, i think, although i enjoy the peace of mind from the hardshells in the city.