Creo Pedal Strikes

I think you will like the tubeless and higher end tires. They are rounder in their overall profile. This allows you to smoothly initiate and come out a turn. While in the turn there is good control and more confidence. Very Fun. BTW: having knobblies on the sides is not always a good thing. You might try a full slick. Like these: https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/tires/700c/700cx38-barlow-pass/

But they require non fiberglass sealant. But the Ultralight version will ride like a real tubular tire (sewup). When you see people balancing on their bike at a standstill, it is often easier because they are on more round tires likes these.

Best.
 
I think you will like the tubeless and higher end tires. They are rounder in their overall profile. This allows you to smoothly initiate and come out a turn. While in the turn there is good control and more confidence. Very Fun. BTW: having knobblies on the sides is not always a good thing. You might try a full slick. Like these: https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop/components/tires/700c/700cx38-barlow-pass/

But they require non fiberglass sealant. But the Ultralight version will ride like a real tubular tire (sewup). When you see people balancing on their bike at a standstill, it is often easier because they are on more round tires likes these.

Best.
appreciate the recommendation! sounds great.
 
i figured i'd do a little weight reduction and try and increase clearance a bit anyway, so i switched to the 170mm carbon crank from the 175mm alloy one, as well as speedplay zero pedals from the pd-t8000. feels very different, i have the float at the max but will probably reduce it a little bit. feels more like a single point of energy transfer rather than the flat surface i'm used to! total savings is 318g
So it's about 140g less for the carbon cranks, so about 70g per crank? I was thinking about carbon cranks (and 5mm shorter for gravel/offroad) as well, but it's difficult to find reliable date for their weight.
 
So it's about 140g less for the carbon cranks, so about 70g per crank? I was thinking about carbon cranks (and 5mm shorter for gravel/offroad) as well, but it's difficult to find reliable date for their weight.

225 per crank for the stock, 167 per crank for the carbon. 48g per crank. 96g, .21lb total.
 
It's an ebike with a decent motor. When do grams matter?
Yes the motor will help you when your bike or you put on weight, or more accurately you put more weight on it.

In order to do so it will consume more energy from the battery to go the same distance at the same speed.

If you are like many of us, you would like to get the most range out of your battery. Keeping weight down is perhaps not the holly grail it is with an acoustic road bike but the same principals of physics still apply.

You can have any two, but not all three of the following. One factor has to be reduced when any two are combined:
  1. more weight (that can be taken off of the bike by you or taken off you by the bike.)
  2. more speed (also can be added by either you or the bike or both)
  3. more range (you might be content not going such distances or you can add the range booster bottle battery to the Creo)
 
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It's an ebike with a decent motor. When do grams matter?
i was just answering the specific question.

while i doubt anyone would be able to notice the difference between 27lb and 26.5lb, add up a few little things here and there (and i wanted slightly shorter cranks and smaller pedals anyway) and i have no doubt the bike will feel more lively. i ride mine with the motor turned completely off more than half the time. last ride, average assist 18%. so i wouldn't mind a slightly lighter bike. in fact the ideal bike for me would probably have half the battery!
 
It's an ebike with a decent motor. When do grams matter?
I heard exactly this reaction several times, when I told about my liking for the Creo. So much money for less motor and less battery when you can buy a Bosch ebike for half of the prize??? It's an ebike (where you don't really work hard), so whatfor any weight reduction???
I think most of us here know, that this isn't true and don't want to go back to a standard ebike 20 lbs heavier...

Of course you won't really notice 100g more or less and the range will be the same. But what matters is the amount of all weight reductions. I saved more than two lbs on my Creo Comp Carbon Evo (about 1/3 with better wheels&tubeless, 1/3 with throwing out the dropper post, 1/3 several minor changes). Also these two lbs won't really matter for the range. But they do matter for handling and agility of the bike, I can feel the two pounds less when riding it and I really enjoy it. Also the Creo is already such a light ebike that further weight reductions make more sense/are more noticable then at a normal heavy ebike.
But of course everything has it's price. The general rule of thumb for (european) weight weenies is 1 Euro per saved gram. If the saved grams are more expensive, a lot of people stay out of it. If it's cheaper, go ahead if you are a weight weenie!
My wheel set was far more expensive per saved gram, but the default whelels are really cheap and weak (for my weight&riedes), so I don't feel sorry. The same with the cranks like mschwett. I was expexting to need shorter cranks for gravel and if I had to change I would use the chance for carbon ones. But so far I feel fine and without pedal strikes and only the saved weight to money ratio is not very good for the carbon cranks.

225 per crank for the stock, 167 per crank for the carbon. 48g per crank. 96g, .21lb total.
Ok, that's more or less the weight I found so far in the web for the carbon cranks
But are you sure with the weight of the stock ones? I was pulling of one crank a few months ago to get an idea of the weight and I remember about 187g (I think already with nuts). So I thought for 20g per crank it's not worth the change. Unfortunately I forgot to take a photo of the balance, but I'm sure it was far from 225g. Or are there different alloy cranks on the Creos?
 
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I heard exactly this reaction several times, when I told about my liking for the Creo. So much money for less motor and less battery when you can buy a Bosch ebike for half of the prize??? It's an ebike (where you don't really work hard), so whatfor any weight reduction???
I think most of us here know, that this isn't true and don't want to go back to a standard ebike 20 lbs heavier...

Of course you won't really notice 100g more or less and the range will be the same. But what matters is the amount of all weight reductions. I saved more than two lbs on my Creo Comp Carbon Evo (about 1/3 with better wheels&tubeless, 1/3 with throwing out the dropper post, 1/3 several minor changes). Also these two lbs won't really matter for the range. But they do matter for handling and agility of the bike, I can feel the two pounds less when riding it and I really enjoy it. Also the Creo is already such a light ebike that further weight reductions make more sense/are more noticable then at a normal heavy ebike.
But of course everything has it's price. The general rule of thumb for (european) weight weenies is 1 Euro per saved gram. If the saved grams are more expensive, a lot of people stay out of it. If it's cheaper, go ahead if you are a weight weenie!
My wheel set was far more expensive per saved gram, but the default whelels are really cheap and weak (for my weight&riedes), so I don't feel sorry. The same with the cranks like mschwett. I was expexting to need shorter cranks for gravel and if I had to change I would use the chance for carbon ones. But so far I feel fine and without pedal strikes and only the saved weight to money ratio is not very good for the carbon cranks.


Ok, that's more or less the weight I found so far in the web for the carbon cranks
But are you sure with the weight of the stock ones? I was pulling of one crank a few months ago to get an idea of the weight and I remember about 187g (I think already with nuts). So I thought for 20g per crank it's not worth the change. Unfortunately I forgot to take a photo of the balance, but I'm sure it was far from 225g. Or are the different alloy cranks on the Creos?

I suppose it's possible our kitchen scale is grossly miscalibrated, but i put a few household objects on it like a soda can and cup of water and it seems correct. It also subjectively feels much heavier, easily 35% heavier which is what the scale says. With my heavy pedals, 57% heavier all in rotating components.

cranks.jpg
 
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I think just don't add weight if you can. One still has to lift-wrangle the thing every once in awhile. It does add up and 3 pounds added or substracted does work out to a fair percentage on a 40 pound bike.
 
I think just don't add weight if you can. One still has to lift-wrangle the thing every once in awhile. It does add up and 3 pounds added or substracted does work out to a fair percentage on a 40 pound bike.
three pounds would be a big difference on a 27lb bike!
 
thanks, probably so.

but does that mean one simply can’t pedal through a hard turn? i don’t have any problem with it if i’m coasting 😇
This has made me have to really think. I don't think I've ever had a pedal strike when cornering (Excluding rock strikes off road) so I'm wondering why. Yesterday on my ride I actually examined what exactly I do on corners to avoid strikes. It seems that instinctively if the corner is hard enough or the road going downhill, I coast, either with both feet level & bum back to keep weight back so I can react and change line easily & quickly if the bend reveals an obstacle or the road surface is uneven, or if either going very fast, or road is steep going down and it's a sharp bend I have my inner pedal right up and use my knee to flag outwards into the bend to help shift my weight that direction, the bike leaning over and my knee helping shift the balance. After years of cycling, instinctively I wouldn't have the inner pedal down and cause a strike. If pedalling hard I'd still instinctively lift that pedal if the bike was leaning into a corner. Even for a single revolution or two until (again instinctively) the bike is more upright and there is no danger of a strike. So I'd suggest rather then changing pedals or crank lengths just practice until corning at speed becomes second nature.
 
I removed my crank again, and I remembered (almost) correct, 185g without the two screws and 204g with the screws (and some grease...):
WhatsApp Image 2021-04-29 at 10.17.05.jpeg
I thought there is only one type of alloy crank and one type of carbon crank for the Creo? Where do more than 20g difference come from? My cranks are already the longest/175mm, Creo is a 2020 Comp Carbon Evo in XL.
Is there a difference between left and right crank? They look identical. This ist the left crank, as my right one is very firmly attached and as I'm unsure in which direction to turn I did not remove it yet. Can you tell me if the directions are the same or different for the right side? On the left side to open it's cw for the outer nut (so lefthanded thread) and ccw to open for the inner screw/bolt (so normal thread).

btw,
 
I removed my crank again, and I remembered (almost) correct, 185g without the two screws and 204g with the screws (and some grease...):
View attachment 86119
I thought there is only one type of alloy crank and one type of carbon crank for the Creo? Where do more than 20g difference come from? My cranks are already the longest/175mm, Creo is a 2020 Comp Carbon Evo in XL.
Is there a difference between left and right crank? They look identical. This ist the left crank, as my right one is very firmly attached and as I'm unsure in which direction to turn I did not remove it yet. Can you tell me if the directions are the same or different for the right side? On the left side to open it's cw for the outer nut (so lefthanded thread) and ccw to open for the inner screw/bolt (so normal thread).

btw,
sorry, i missed this @jodi2

i just weighed mine again, both sides, one is 224g the other 225g, but together, 450g. they are definitely the same. they are also 175mm. most curious! they look slightly different from yours, the PRAXIS lettering is very faint on mine. but they really should be the same, my creo is a 2020 comp carbon XL. at least i'm pretty sure it's a 2020. could be a 2021 i guess, but i don't think so.
 
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