Charging to 80% without a Satiator

[tomjasz]

Yeah, Ford could sell more Toyota parts too.

 

[Deleted member 4210]

Greetings all, I just did some math to figure out how to charge my battery to 80% based on timing the charge cycle on the basic 2 amp charger. Here's what I came up with:

The 52V, 19.2AH battery is actually listed as 52V, 19.2AH on the label, so that's good, I'm not sure where the 52V, 21AH battery listed on the Juiced website comes for battery life comes from. But based on Juiced's documentation that they are LG batteries, 14 series (52V) by 9 parallel, that gives them a nominal capacity of either 19 or 20AH based on LG's HE4 or MJ1, the closest available on https://www.ebikes.ca/tools/charge-simulator.html?bat=cust_c27_s14_p6_l30 Using ebike.ca's calculator, based on 56.3V = 80% = 16.35AH, here's a quick chart of battery voltages, levels, and percentages for the 52V battery available on the CCS and RipCurrent. I based this on them being MJ1 cells. If anyone knows for sure, please chime in.

48.7V - 20% - 4.08AH
49.3V - 25% - 5.10AH
49.8V - 30% - 6.12AH
50.4V - 35% - 7.14AH
51.0V - 40% - 8.17AH
51.4V - 45% - 9.19AH
52.1V - 50% - 10.21AH
52.8V - 55% - 11.24AH
53.5V - 60% - 12.26AH
54.2V - 65% - 13.28AH
54.9V - 70% - 14.31AH
55.4V - 75% - 15.33AH
56.3V - 80% - 16.35AH

Be aware, the CCS low voltage cutoff won't go higher than 43V (at least on mine). Feel free to correct me on my math if I messed anything up, and all values are rounded, including to a single place for voltage because that's what the onboard display will indicate.

To demonstrate, if you were at 20%, 4.08AH, and you wanted to get to 80%, 16.35AH, 16.35-4.08 = 12.27AH differences, at a charge rate of 2AH, gives you 6.135 hours, 6 hours and 8 minutes.

This is all a rough approximation, but if you haven't gotten a satiator yet, I hope this helps you estimate charge time to 80%.

Great way to KILL your battery prematurely.

If you dont use something like a Cycle Satiator, then this attempt to only go to 80%, will leave your cell voltages out of balance. Your battery MIGHT last 18 months, and be at half capacity by then. You need to go to full charge for proper cell balancing.

Otherwise, best bet is to not fully discharge every time.

 

[DDBB]

I agree it's important to do a full charge to balance all the cells however if you don't ride below 30% capacity you won't be in danger of any low cells getting too low as long as a full charge is done from time to time.

 

[DDBB]

Yeah, Ford could sell more Toyota parts too.

The Grin satiator is advertised and sold by Grin as a "universal" e-bike battery charger. If they advertise it as being "universal" you'd think they'd have adapters since there are so many different brands and styles of e-bike batteries... If they only advertised it for their proprietary battery, I'd agree w/ you.

 

[Bruce Arnold]

I posted elsewhere, but it bears repeating, that instead of a dedicated timer I'm using a TP-Link smart plug. I can turn it on/off via Alexa, and the app has a tab for setting a count-down timer, or you can set a start time and a finish time, so if you want to have it fully charged for a long morning ride but don't want it sitting for hours on a full charge, you can schedule it to stop at around the time you plan to ride. A lot easier than fiddling with the controls on the timer I used to use.

 

[tomjasz]

The Grin satiator is advertised and sold by Grin as a "universal" e-bike battery charger. If they advertise it as being "universal" you'd think they'd have adapters since there are so many different brands and styles of e-bike batteries... If they only advertised it for their proprietary battery, I'd agree w/ you.

Works on my 8 batteries and every battery I've ever sold. How can anyone develop a charger that works with all the new comm systems in OEM batteries? Silly argument... That said the use of "universal" is unfortunate. It is NOT a good choice for OEM batteries with comm wires. Now I'm curious. What is the connector on a Yamaha system? 2 wire? 3 wire?

 

[DDBB]

Certainly wouldn't expect them to have adapters for all OEM batteries but not having them for one of the most, if not THE most popular brand (Yamaha) is a bit of an oversight, especially when you advertise the charger as "universal". I realize I can cobble my own together if I so choose, my point is that if Grin had an adapter for 10 bucks I'd have been likely to buy their satiator but not wanting to mess with it (lazy) I didn't order.. There are four female pin receptacles in the round charge connector for my Yamaha battery

 

[RandallS]

I posted elsewhere, but it bears repeating, that instead of a dedicated timer I'm using a TP-Link smart plug. I can turn it on/off via Alexa, and the app has a tab for setting a count-down timer, or you can set a start time and a finish time, so if you want to have it fully charged for a long morning ride but don't want it sitting for hours on a full charge, you can schedule it to stop at around the time you plan to ride. A lot easier than fiddling with the controls on the timer I used to use.

And now i keep a spreadsheet with before and after levels with the charging time (using timer) as well. I'm also keeping a record of discharge rates with riding data (time, distance, elevation gained). Neither data sets are super important, but it gives me a record of what's going on. I use TP-Link stuff too. Good value equipment.