Can't get up to 23mph - bummed out

[J.R.]

Height of rider has NOTHING to do with correct bike sizing. Everyone's inseam is different. Only way to ensure proper bike size is to have your local dealer take your measurements AND then stand over the bike you think fits. Given top tube design and geometry, proper clearance can change quite a bit. A bike must "feel" good to you before you even consider the componentry and, for those that are not cyclists, this is very subjective.

While not a fitting expert, I see about 90% of riders on a bike that is not the right size or properly fitted.

I agree with everything you say except your beginning statement. Height isn't the defining factor but in most cases has a lot to do with inseam. Generally a 6' (human) will fall into a 29"-32" inseam. So if I were a bike salesman and had a potential client of 6' coming in I would have ready a medium and large frame ready for demo. Most casual riders don't want to pay for a proper fitting or pay dealer pricing for a bike that includes a proper fitting.

Sometimes you need to address what exists today, you can't always change or fix what happened yesterday. Often commenting on yesterday is just judgment.

 

[Deleted member 803]

I agree with everything you say except your beginning statement. Height isn't the defining factor but in most cases has a lot to do with inseam. Generally a 6' (human) will fall into a 29"-32" inseam. So if I were a bike salesman and had a potential client of 6' coming in I would have ready a medium and large frame ready for demo. Most casual riders don't want to pay for a proper fitting or pay dealer pricing for a bike that includes a proper fitting.

Sometimes you need to address what exists today, you can't always change or fix what happened yesterday. Often commenting on yesterday is just judgment.

Demo is one thing, but any decent dealer should take inseam and arm length (quick to do) and then determine best size. My son was completely measured by the sales rep before a bike was ordered for him. This is different than a fitting. Most good bike shops will do a quick fit after purchase to include seat height, fore/aft, angle, and any adjustments to handlebar and controls.

My local ebike dealer sells mostly very high end bikes to aggressive cyclists. We spent about 20 minutes adjusting the controls on the handlebar for proper wrist alignment and how far away from the bar ends my shifters should be placed so my thumbs reach the levers without any repositioning of the hands. I realize this is overkill for most on this forum.

 

[Operator7]

At 6 feet tall you really should have a large frame but a medium frame barely gets you by. The seat is definitely too short, especially considering you have medium frame (unless you have very short legs for your height).
A larger frame would lend itself to a more comfortable riding position. I am 6' 2" on a large frame. Notice the seat height...

Hurley, I think you are right. I raised the seat post up another few inches, and I can see how that would give me more room for leg strokes. Sucks though because the bike doesn't look as sexy with the post raised up more!! I like the Swiss symbol on the fork, and on the seat post it's debatable depending on your taste, but personally speaking I absolutely LOVE the red trim on the black frame, and the rest of the font and graphics, and think it looks very sexy... but the Swiss symbol on the seatpost kinda takes away from that, imho. At any rate, I will try riding with the seatpost higher on my next ride. thanks

 

[Operator7]

Op, these comments about fit are VERY GENERAL. Most MTN bike setups, the saddle is level with the bars and road bikes, the saddle is higher than the bars (where the bar mounts to stem). That's just a starting point and you fine tune from there, getting the proper leg extension. I expect you have an 18-19" frame, which should work fine for most 6' riders. 18" is the measurement from the bottom bracket to the top of the seat-tube (your bike: battery seat-tube). You may just need to make minor adjustments on saddle height and saddle fore/aft and angle. Minor adjustments in these areas make big changes.

Most riders on a properly fitting bike can barely touch the ground while seated with the tips of their toes and than only with one foot, but many new riders are not comfortable with this. It takes time and riding experience to gain confidence. Checkout some Youtube videos on professional bike fitting.

Hang in there!

Thank you!!

By the way, someone had posted a full diagram of the size of all the tubes, and the difference between the S-M-L, but I can't remember where I saw it. The medium size is 20".

S (18", 46cm), M (20", 51cm), L (21.5", 54.5cm), LS-S (18" 46cm), LS-M (20", 51cm)

 

[Operator7]

I've been following this thread for a day or so. OP, either you were misled by the dealer and/or you simply did not do your homework and ask the right questions. There are many 28 mph assist options for both rear and mid drive bikes. And the political comments about California are factually incorrect.

Dealer did not mislead me at all. If you read the thread, you will see that there is some confusion about what speed this bike assists up to. Either way, the dealer was AWESOME in giving me a loaner when I was purchasing an ST1 that was out of stock. I'm glad either way that I was given the opportunity to try this great bike. And dealer did not recommend the bike to me. It was a demo listed on their site, and I asked to try it. I did not ask the dealer about the speed, because from the listing on Currie site as well as Court's review here (and also some comments made in this forum), I thought the bike assisted up to 28mph.

And as someone who has lived in California a long long time, I think I'm entitled to my opinion of the state, based on my experience, thank you very much. Please don't attempt to start a petty political debate.

 

[Ann M.]

I don't mind. I completely agree with everything you just said. This bike is great, but it's greatly limited/hampered by the lack of speed. If I just wanted to go short range, a regular bike would do. To me, the whole purpose of an ebike is to be able to go on rides of more than a couple miles. And while this bike is great at getting from zero to 16 or 18 mph fast, it then is like one big tease. I am a complete noob (though I HAVE done a significant amount of research), and this is just my amateur opinion, but I certainly wouldn't pay $3K or more to travel only a few mph faster than capable on a regular bike. That is a LOT more money than a regular bike!
I went from a person complaining about bikes, to someone purchasing an ebike. Anyways, those are my thoughts/opinions.

@Operator7 As a former Currie Tech dealer who has sold a number of the E3 Eflow bikes, I think there is some misinformation floating around here. There are 2 versions of the motor for the Nitro, one is for better hill climbing with greater torque and the other is the speed motor. You have to order the bike with the correct motor/controller setup. Currie Tech's website also differentiates between the two versions. Only the 2013 Nitro had one option. Please have fun riding no matter which bike you get!

 

[Operator7]

@Operator7 As a former Currie Tech dealer who has sold a number of the E3 Eflow bikes, I think there is some misinformation floating around here. There are 2 versions of the motor for the Nitro, one is for better hill climbing with greater torque and the other is the speed motor. You have to order the bike with the correct motor/controller setup. Currie Tech's website also differentiates between the two versions. Only the 2013 Nitro had one option. Please have fun riding no matter which bike you get!

Hi Ann,

I believe I have the 2013 model. Court has the model that I have with the red trim listed as 2014 and 28mph, but I believe that is incorrect. What say you?

Also, with the 2014 model, can you verify what speed the assist cuts off at, for the speed version of the bike?

 

[PowerMe]

I think there is some misinformation floating around here. There are 2 versions of the motor for the Nitro, one is for better hill climbing with greater torque and the other is the speed motor. You have to order the bike with the correct motor/controller setup.

Thank you @Ann M. This has been posted a couple times already, including in a video shared on this thread where CurrieTech's John P. imparted the same information, and for some reason this important distinction of 2 separate Nitro ebikes was just not penetrating.

 

[Operator7]

Thank you @Ann M. This has been posted a couple times already, including in a video shared on this thread where CurrieTech's John P. imparted the same information, and for some reason this important distinction of 2 separate Nitro ebikes was just not penetrating.

I don't see where ANYONE on this thread does not understand that there are two versions of the new model. What people have asked is at what speed does the power assist cut-off, on either version.

And also as was earlier pointed out on this thread, the Currie site currently shows the black with red trim model (http://www.currietech.com). Apparently this is the 2013 model, but the site does not list that. Court also has this model (black with red trim) listed as 2014 model, and with a speed of 28mph.

 

[Operator7]

The speed at which the motor cuts out is what the bike is rated for. So, if the motor is programmed to cut out at 20 mph then any expectation of more than 20 has to be tempered with reality (rider's height, weight, terrain, wind direction and strength).

So I guess the question is: what speed is this particular ebike that Operator7 purchased programmed for? Does the motor assist cut off when the bike reaches 20mph? (sounds like it to me).

You asked the very question yourself, by the way.

 

[PowerMe]

I was in essence asking which version of the ebike you had and said it sounded like you had the one that cuts out at 20mph, which is why you weren't able to get up to 28 mph on the flats. That implies there's more than 1 version of the bike and the one you have happens to be the lower speed cutout, based on your posted experiences.

 

[Bike_On]

Op7,
Cutting to the chase, I think you need to go back and exchange your bike for a 28mph one. I think you said you can do that?

I guess there was a reason for such a good deal.

 

[Operator7]

I was in essence asking which version of the ebike you had and said it sounded like you had the one that cuts out at 20mph, which is why you weren't able to get up to 28 mph on the flats. That implies there's more than 1 version of the bike and the one you have happens to be the lower speed cutout, based on your posted experiences.

Well again, it seems my model is 2013, where there was only one version. Either way, the question that is being asked is what speed does the power assist cut off, and this question is for the 2013 model, and both versions of the 2014 model.

 

[Operator7]

Op7,
Cutting to the chase, I think you need to go back and exchange your bike for a 28mph one. I think you said you can do that?

I guess there was a reason for such a good deal.

I can still do that, and probably will, if this bike cannot assist past 20mph. It's still a great bike, and I love it, minus the speed limitation.

 

[Ann M.]

2013 - 20mph; 2014 - hi torque 20mph; hi speed 28mph in pedal assist mode; level 4.

 

[Adrian]

Come on, let's be honest, it's a damn ugly bike anyway and if limited to 20mph (32kph) it's probably not very useful as a distance commuter bike - add to that the impressively low torque ratings (how can this thing even get up a hill with a large rider on it?) I'd say bin it, sell it or return it and get a proper middrive bike or at least one with a hub with some power behind it (and one you can fit a suspension post to if that's what you want).

Yes, this will cost you more money but like many things in life, you get what you're willing to pay for. If you don't want to pay more, you'll have to make do - or make a DIY bike (which will give you more speed, power and range for less).

 

[PowerMe]

Looks aside, the 2014 eFlow e3 Nitro comes with a 36V 14Ah battery and a 500W gearless rear hub motor, and a 20-speed drivetrain. Not top of the line, but certainly capable of commuting. Their battery has more power than the 2015 Easy Motion EVO battery, which is only 11.6Ah. (yes I know, Operator7 has the 2013 model).

But if a speed pedelec is what is wanted, then even though it costs more, a purpose-built speed pedelec is worth it.

 

[Hurley]

Come on, let's be honest, it's a damn ugly bike anyway and if limited to 20mph (32kph) it's probably not very useful as a distance commuter bike - add to that the impressively low torque ratings (how can this thing even get up a hill with a large rider on it?) I'd say bin it, sell it or return it and get a proper middrive bike or at least one with a hub with some power behind it (and one you can fit a suspension post to if that's what you want).

Yes, this will cost you more money but like many things in life, you get what you're willing to pay for. If you don't want to pay more, you'll have to make do - or make a DIY bike (which will give you more speed, power and range for less).

Come on, let's be honest, it's a damn ugly bike anyway and if limited to 20mph (32kph) it's probably not very useful as a distance commuter bike - add to that the impressively low torque ratings (how can this thing even get up a hill with a large rider on it?) I'd say bin it, sell it or return it and get a proper middrive bike or at least one with a hub with some power behind it (and one you can fit a suspension post to if that's what you want).

Yes, this will cost you more money but like many things in life, you get what you're willing to pay for. If you don't want to pay more, you'll have to make do - or make a DIY bike (which will give you more speed, power and range for less).

Beauty is in the eye of the holder.
Yesterday, I got three compliments on my bike. The bike is non-traditional looking but good looking just the same in my opinion. This bike has more torque than the $7000 ST2. I am 215 pounds and easily rode up Mt. Lemmon passing bikes galore (amongst the toughest climbs in America).

And, since when is averaging 19 mph too slow for a commute? I guess every non E-Bike in America is not a distance commuter.
You are trolling or short sighted with your damn ugly commentary. Play nice!

 

[EbikeR2]

I can still do that, and probably will, if this bike cannot assist past 20mph. It's still a great bike, and I love it, minus the speed limitation.

You're not going to be happy with it --and I think one should fall in love with one's ebike -- that's not going to happen in your situation. You're in a v lucky position in that you can still exchange it. In my opinion --Get an OHM XS750 or XU 700 -- both with D series BionX and big beautiful Schwalbe 27.5 inch tires for $4000 (3 yr warranty on battery!) and be prepared to be amazed.

 

[Adrian]

Beauty is in the eye of the holder.
Yesterday, I got three compliments on my bike. The bike is non-traditional looking but good looking just the same in my opinion. This bike has more torque than the $7000 ST2. I am 215 pounds and easily rode up Mt. Lemmon passing bikes galore (amongst the toughest climbs in America).

And, since when is averaging 19 mph too slow for a commute? I guess every non E-Bike in America is not a distance commuter.
You are trolling or short sighted with your damn ugly commentary. Play nice!

Well, my post was kinda tongue in cheek - perhaps a smiley would have made that more obvious - though I think the bike really is a little ugly with that seat tube that's actually a bulky square battery. I normally wouldn't comment on the looks of a bike because it's such a subjective thing but as the OP made such an issue of it looking so awesome, well, I thought that it would be nice for at least one person to let him know that he thinks it's a damn fugly bike.

Given that the seat tube limits the users choice of seat post as well, I think it's a bad design.

I would also think that advertising 40Nm of torque in the "slow and torquey high power" version would be a little embarrassing no matter that it's greater than a more expensive bike, particularly when any Bosch can put out 60Nm, a Yamaha 70Nm, an Impulse 70Nm, and real performance bikes like the M1 Spitzing can generate 120Nm. Even the inexpensive Bafang 250W-500w hub motors that you can put on just about any bike have anything between 30 and 80Nm of torque (depending on the model) and the 750W middrive has 120Nm - need I go on? And yes, even low power ebikes can go up hills - but at what speed exactly?

As for commuting - unlike recreational bikes, commuting is generally about getting the journey done as quickly as possible so you can get on with your life/job. In particular, I would say (and I did) that distance commuting requires speed, the more the better or you spend far too much time just travelling rather than doing.

To summarize - unless you really fall in love with this bike's looks (yes, there's no accounting for taste I know), there are plenty of other ebike possibilities out there that will give you as much or more, be pretty and have a proper seat tube. Cost, well, that depends on what you want but a DIY hub driven bike that will be faster and have more torque than the Nitro will cost less if you chose an inexpensive bike to put the motor on - I mean, an eflow Nitro is arond $3K US as far as I can tell - a Bafang hub kit with controller, display and throttle can be had for less than 200 US$ and for 2K you can get a battery and a nice full suspension bike to put it on.

If I were him, I'd get one of these http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/fantom_29_fs_xtslx-tcs.htm and put one of these on it; http://www.lectriccycles.com with a battery you could put it together for under 3K and have something that a Nitro would never keep up with in any situation. It looks cooler, would be faster, have more torque, be a better climber and have full suspension to boot.

And if DIY is not his thing he could just buy a pre-built one; http://www.lectriccycles.com

Oh and here's your smiley.