Battery Cost: $1,299

vincent said:
Well I hope you’re wrong because all these electric bikes that were sold this year are going to need batteries in 4-5 years and I hope they don’t all end up in the landfill because we cannot get/rebuild batteries for them at reasonable prices
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I hope I'm wrong too! I just feel like i've seen so many claims from ebike hobbyists that just don't pan out when you actually scrutinize them. They tend to think that because someone somewhere fixed something once, then you too can fix it in the same way and make that your standard operating procedure.

Sorta like people saying building your own ebike is the best value... And then don't count the cost of the starter pedal bike, or the tools required or the time to acquire the know-how, or the risk of destroying the bike/parts/your workspace, or the lack of warranty and support.
 
I looked at rebuild batteries or batteries by some of the companies that rebuild that are made for specific bikes a while back
and I honestly did not check what cells they were using

but they were the reputable rebuilders listed on here in a couple of places and they were definitely cheaper than buying stock from the original brand, not half-price but some savings
 
I have a pedego in the shop right now that is older and the shop is concerned about the battery a little bit, I will see what they quote me on a battery and I will see what the rebuilder quotes me and post it here when we figure out what is going on with the bike etc.
 
Handlebars said:
You misapprehended, maybe because of your attachments. I'm not under an illusion that publishing is not very expensive, it's that the university admin culture is sick and corrupt at this point and simply encouraging more spending, not even attempting to curb the excesses. There's absolutely no need to have most textbooks replaced as often as they are. No wonder students come out with life-crushing debt and can't think of having a family until they are well past their "best before" date.
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My soil biology text book was $400! Why the fudge aren’t they available as a pdf. Much easier searching and reviewing.
 
vincent said:
Well I hope you’re wrong because all these electric bikes that were sold this year are going to need batteries in 4-5 years and I hope they don’t all end up in the landfill because we cannot get/rebuild batteries for them at reasonable prices
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A case is under $50. Personally proprietary batteries keep me away from many eBikes. I’d never have a Hailong (shark) case rebuilt . Especially a high Ah with more cells than can fit in the cell holders.
 
Last message on this thread. I'm researching bikes because I'm going to purchase one. I'm looking at a few brands and I am going to ask about the negative things I've discovered and heard about the brands I'm considering. This thread has been very valuable to me. I learned of a new brand in this thread that is now on highest my list of considerations (thank you). Here, I've also learned about battery cells and construction and that is valuable knowledge. So in the future you will see me asking questions about bikes that aren't positive. But it's just research. I'm an old man who only wants to make his best purchase relative to capability, quality, support AND cost of ownership. I have no bias...I don't care to have involvement with any manufacturer. My present bike is an Ecotric Seagull. Which has served me well AFTER I ironed out a serious problem with breaking spokes. I probably should report my experience here. I got this bike for $1050 after a price reduction due to threatening to return it on their 30 day trial. Rad bikes were selling for $1,699 or $1,799 at the time. Didn't know a thing about bikes. Sometimes I do research about things I purchase (as I am on this thread). Sometimes I just jump in and find out the hard way as I did with my Seagull. It was the cheapest bike I could find. The Seagull has a 1000 watt direct drive motor, which I imagine has abut 50 nm of torque. I live by mountains and so I need more low end, start up torque. With that big battery, Juiced appears to have the most low end out there in 750 watt bikes (for a reasonable price). I want the range to do long rides in the large city I live in (Phoenix) and the surrounding mountains. I was totally hooked on Juiced and was totally disappointed when I discovered the price increase on their big battery. It really became an issue after I destroyed one of my present bike's batteries. Last words on the Seagull. It's a great bike. I climbed South Mountain with it here in Phoenix when I first got it. I honestly thought that it would burn it up. With much less peddle assist than I thought I would need, I passed a few very high end road bikes...with ease. I apologized to them as I passed, "Sorry, it's an E-bike." The Seagull has a very unique frame that I really like (and don't like). Kind of something out of Star Wars, a blade that flies silently because it's direct drive. Anyway, please forgive me if I appeared to be attacking anyone. I need to watch my expenses. So it really is important information to me.
 
mjorg said:
Last message on this thread. I'm researching bikes because I'm going to purchase one. I'm looking at a few brands and I am going to ask about the negative things I've discovered and heard about the brands I'm considering. This thread has been very valuable to me. I learned of a new brand in this thread that is now on highest my list of considerations (thank you). Here, I've also learned about battery cells and construction and that is valuable knowledge. So in the future you will see me asking questions about bikes that aren't positive. But it's just research. I'm an old man who only wants to make his best purchase relative to capability, quality, support AND cost of ownership. I have no bias...I don't care to have involvement with any manufacturer. My present bike is an Ecotric Seagull. Which has served me well AFTER I ironed out a serious problem with breaking spokes. I probably should report my experience here. I got this bike for $1050 after a price reduction due to threatening to return it on their 30 day trial. Rad bikes were selling for $1,699 or $1,799 at the time. Didn't know a thing about bikes. Sometimes I do research about things I purchase (as I am on this thread). Sometimes I just jump in and find out the hard way as I did with my Seagull. It was the cheapest bike I could find. The Seagull has a 1000 watt direct drive motor, which I imagine has abut 50 nm of torque. I live by mountains and so I need more low end, start up torque. With that big battery, Juiced appears to have the most low end out there in 750 watt bikes (for a reasonable price). I want the range to do long rides in the large city I live in (Phoenix) and the surrounding mountains. I was totally hooked on Juiced and was totally disappointed when I discovered the price increase on their big battery. It really became an issue after I destroyed one of my present bike's batteries. Last words on the Seagull. It's a great bike. I climbed South Mountain with it here in Phoenix when I first got it. I honestly thought that it would burn it up. With much less peddle assist than I thought I would need, I passed a few very high end road bikes...with ease. I apologized to them as I passed, "Sorry, it's an E-bike." The Seagull has a very unique frame that I really like (and don't like). Kind of something out of Star Wars, a blade that flies silently because it's direct drive. Anyway, please forgive me if I appeared to be attacking anyone. I need to watch my expenses. So it really is important information to me.
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How does Rize look for the bike you might want? Batteries are much more modestly priced.
 
There have always been bikes that are cheaper than Juiced that lack a torque sensor. However, with my road bike background, I’ve never had the desire to buy a cadence sensing-only bike. I’m on my original 2016 Cross Current and should close out 2021 with 25k miles on it. I’ve had some issues but have always been able to sort them out myself and there are still ample parts out there for the bike which can’t be said for a lot of proprietary big bike brands 4+ years old.
 
Affordable priced electric bikes direct from Manufacturer – EUNORAU ELECTRIC BIKES (eunorau-ebike.com)
Dunbar said:
There have always been bikes that are cheaper than Juiced that lack a torque sensor. However, with my road bike background, I’ve never had the desire to buy a cadence sensing-only bike. I’m on my original 2016 Cross Current and should close out 2021 with 25k miles on it. I’ve had some issues but have always been able to sort them out myself and there are still ample parts out there for the bike which can’t be said for a lot of proprietary big bike brands 4+ years old.
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My wifes BTN has a torque sensor , $1095 .
 
Dunbar said:
Which model competes with the Cross Current S2 and offers more features for less money? The only BTN‘s I see at that price point are you’re run-of-the-mill hub motor e-bike with cadence sensing only.
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I never said they compete with the cc . Dont put words in my posts . The E-torqe has torqe sensing as do some of the mid drives .
Edit : Seem they went up 100 .
 
jangles said:
I never said they compete with the cc . Dont put words in my posts . The E-torqe has torqe sensing as do some of the mid drives .
Edit : Seem they went up 100 .
Click to expand...

Ok, so it costs less but offers less in terms of features (smaller battery, mechanical discs, 20mph, no brake cutoff switches, lower end shifter/derailleur etc). That’s fine but doesn’t really prove that there are better value e-bikes out there. Just that there are less expensive ones. AFAIK, Juiced used a bottom-bracket torque sensor early on but switched to the TMM4 clones about five years ago because they offer better performance and allow higher resolution cadence & torque sensing.
 
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Handlebars said:
How does Rize look for the bike you might want? Batteries are much more modestly priced.
Click to expand...
Actually, that's the brand I was referring to in my "last" message. In fact I just looked and it you who wrote about it. Thank you very much! It looks very good to me. I would still like a 52 volt battery. Seems like it would cause there to be more low end.
 
Dunbar said:
Ok, so it costs less but offers less in terms of features (smaller battery, mechanical discs, 20mph, no brake cutoff switches, lower end shifter/derailleur etc). That’s fine but doesn’t really prove that there are better value e-bikes out there. Just that there are less expensive ones. AFAIK, Juiced used a bottom-bracket torque sensor early on but switched to the TMM4 clones about five years ago because they offer better performance and allow higher resolution cadence & torque sensing.
Click to expand...

In the under $2k market, I only find that the Ride1Up LMTD rivals Juiced for a torque sensing, non-fat tire model. Everything else costs more or has some major compromises. The Rize Rize has 7 speeds, one size, and a dated frame design like Juiced.

People go on as if there's lots of choice now, but there really isn't for a $2k class 3 torque sensing commuter model.
 
Looks interesting. I would love to fit 2.4” Moto X’s on my Cross Current. I’m not sure how well those bottom bracket torque sensors work though. Seems like an older technology to be using at at this point. They use a non-proprietary battery which is good for future serviceability. I would definitely give that bike some consideration if I were buying now. I was kind of hoping that there would be better mid-drive options in the 750-1000W power range at under $2k at this point almost five years since getting my Cross Current for <$2k.
 
mjorg said:
Actually, that's the brand I was referring to in my "last" message. In fact I just looked and it you who wrote about it. Thank you very much! It looks very good to me. I would still like a 52 volt battery. Seems like it would cause there to be more low end.
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From what I hear, once you have enough power to go up hills where you ride, the price usually attached to getting that higher voltage isn't as valuable for ordinary cruising around as much as getting higher Ah (for longer range) is.
Someone will correct this if it's wrong, I'm sure.
Anyway, that's why I only look for a bigger 48V battery in addition to my 17Ah. I'd like 30 Ah but will settle for 20Ah.
I'd prefer to have the low end on my bike REDUCED to save energy. It takes off from stopped with a little jolt forward whereas I would coordinate my pedalling with the throttle if it were a smoother take-off on throttle.
I like big range without pedalling hard all the way, I don't care how fast the take off is that much. Not as much as going way further at a decent speed. Say 15 mph 100 miles.
 
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