"a beautiful thing". Well I guess - If you like 'em obese @78lbs starting weight.
Then I'd have to replace or get over: cheesy B&W display, $15 thumb (wrecker, tendonitis causing) throttle; the front fork is so cheap they won't tell what it is, etc.
Even taking into account the battery could add $700, other cheapo parts - like the ring gear and bash plate, seat-post, saddle, pedals, those 'demi-ape-hangers' that look like they came off a 70's vintage Girls Stingray (I instantly wondered: "where's the Red plastic tassels?')
and I'm flummoxed wondering: Are they really single pot brakes
?
Even the cheapest cassette. All a minus balance for me.
There are upscale features. The dropouts do look sturdy and it has a (sort of) torque arm (Big +++), but it's too short and attached too weakly to be of any real help. All these motors have out-of-spec cut shaft flats and every last source worth a dime says if you have any real power, a real torque arm is required - usually two if you are cranking.
That single TA is maybe 2", an M6 (maybe) steel bolt (electrolysis) through alloy (Hard meets soft, flex, flex, crunch, crunch) attaches and if the "cheap" theme is followed, unsuitable automotive type washers and lug nuts. Hey, it's 20 cents or $20?
The cassette side appears to use a subframe (hopefully steel) bolted to the frame. Outstanding !!! This is a real solution - alloy dropouts can get chewed up by a hardened motor shaft - if that frame is alloy, and the parts are insulated. They don't say.
However, the problem is that the shafts are deliberately ground with a ton of slop. M12 (12mm) threaded x 10mm flats is the rating and e-bike dropouts are cut for that. But the bicycle standard is 9mm and
the big money is in 'universal conversion kits', so get it? Slop was built in.
To combat that problem requires the torque arms be preloaded in the direction of force. If one side is not, you have 1/2 the holding force keeping that axle in place.
As a 'slo-mo ride' for a larger person - considering Bafang rates that motor at 85nm Max - it really shouldn't need any hub spinning prevention measures beyond sturdy dropouts, the right hardware and proper welds. So a TA is not a very big selling point in this case.
For a lighter person, it's a friggin' tuna boat.
Fn'F