Bafang G062 / G063 Info

[Chargeride]

I havent looked at this, how is phase current higher than battery current, is it lower voltage or different way of measuring it.

 

[Chargeride]

I totally agree with you.
The G062 is just for a baseline design.
I want to build my own motor design.
But I want it to fit inside the stock G062 motor case so anyone who has a compatible case can just drop in the upgrade.
So right now I am developing the baseline parameters. And looking for advice from all of you based on your experiences.

Everything inside the motor is fairly easy for me to make. Other than the stator.
The stator really isn't a big issue. If it could be solid it would be super simple.
But I know it can't because of eddy currents.

Based off the Grin All-Axel Hub Motor (I assume they have a really good design they seem to know there stuff)
QUOTE

• 0.35mm Laminations for low motor drag when pedaling unassisted
• Thermistor Beta: The 10K NTC thermistor has been changed from one with a 3950 Beta constant to a 3450 Beta constant. This allows for better resolution and accuracy when measuring high motor temperatures, as there is a more discernable voltage change.
• updated from N35 to N40 grade magnets. Stronger magnets allow the motor to produce more torque for hill climbing with less heat loss, but they also increase the drag of the motor when riding without power

So those are a few things to think about.
My main concern is the laminations. Those are .01378 inches thick. that is too thin to machine alone.
But if I clamp the plates together with a fixture I could easily machine them.

So how to you laminate the laminations?
Varnish Dip?
High Temp Epoxy Spray Paint?
Or just the glue in between laminations ? (what kind of glue?)

And what is the absolute best material to use for the laminations?

Again just to reiterate, I can and will make the tooling and fixtures required to assemble the stack.

I want to have the Best of the Best of the Best. And I find making my own stuff gets me there. And I love this hobby.

Another easier option may be to find a stock lamination stack at a lamination manufacturer that has enough material on it to machine it to my own specification?
Trust me. I can machine the stack without heat damage or pulling it apart. I got a half million dollar machine to do it with and the proper tooling and the proper knowledge.

I simply need to know What to Make.

I have posted that I swapped out a 75Ow motor, it had different size bearing internal diameter and shaft profile differences.

 

[JTK77]

I havent looked at this, how is phase current higher than battery current, is it lower voltage or different way of measuring it.

I'm using ASI BAC2000 and Kilowatt app where you can adjust both independently. Basically at low rpm the voltage is also lower so phase amps can be higher than battery amps.

 

[Bella-Motor-HP]

Liquid and and air cooling. Also 8 awg phases etc.

How did you add in the Liguid cooling?
Where are the passages inside the motor to cool the stator?
Are they built into the Case?

 

[JTK77]

How did you add in the Liguid cooling?
Where are the passages inside the motor to cool the stator?
Are they built into the Case?

Couple of pictures to illustrate. Made custom part for added inlets. Also modded the cover plate and stator body a bit. Varmished coils run besides windings. Coolant is pumped and circulated through fan cooled radiator.

 

[Bella-Motor-HP]

I see that you ran copper tubing.

Once I get this motor 3D modeled I will take a look and see if there is a way to make the motor cover itself have the cooling ports inside.
If I can fit things right maybe I will have a cooling Ring that is built into the motor cover that will press down flat on top of the coils to get good surface area and thermal transfer between the cooling ring and coils.
I have to model everything so I can see what space I have inside the motor, I need to see also how much room I have between the bike frame and the outside of the motor case. If I can find at least say 6mm (1/4") that would be enough room. this space includes the Clearence in the motor the thickness of the case, and any extra room between the dropouts and the motor case.

Hopefully I can come up with a side cover that has the cooling ring built in. Then anyone wanting this upgrade could do so by changing the cover.

 

[JTK77]

I see that you ran copper tubing.

Once I get this motor 3D modeled I will take a look and see if there is a way to make the motor cover itself have the cooling ports inside.
If I can fit things right maybe I will have a cooling Ring that is built into the motor cover that will press down flat on top of the coils to get good surface area and thermal transfer between the cooling ring and coils.
I have to model everything so I can see what space I have inside the motor, I need to see also how much room I have between the bike frame and the outside of the motor case. If I can find at least say 6mm (1/4") that would be enough room. this space includes the Clearence in the motor the thickness of the case, and any extra room between the dropouts and the motor case.

Hopefully I can come up with a side cover that has the cooling ring built in. Then anyone wanting this upgrade could do so by changing the cover.

That solution won't work as the cover is spinning but windings are not.
I have the coils spring pressed against windings and thermal grease applied.

 

[Bella-Motor-HP]

I Plan to totally redesign the motor case.
I will machine it from aluminum bar stock.
By installing large bearings and modifying the shaft accordingly. The ring that is between the shaft and the bearing inner diameter will remain stationary.
Then holes can be machined into that ring for phase wires. Additional ports to make connection to the cooling ring will also be added. This can be done on both sides of the motor. If there is enough space. My motor comes Thursday so that will be the day I will truly know what I'm working with. For sure it's gonna be some work, but wow wouldn't that be truly awesome.

 

[JTK77]

I Plan to totally redesign the motor case.
I will machine it from aluminum bar stock.
By installing large bearings and modifying the shaft accordingly. The ring that is between the shaft and the bearing inner diameter will remain stationary.
Then holes can be machined into that ring for phase wires. Additional ports to make connection to the cooling ring will also be added. This can be done on both sides of the motor. If there is enough space. My motor comes Thursday so that will be the day I will truly know what I'm working with. For sure it's gonna be some work, but wow wouldn't that be truly awesome.

If I understod right this is pretty much how I did it. On the other side of the motor this won't work. There is both freewheel/free hub assembly and most importantly rotor/Bell housing on the way (picture) + the clutch assembly.

 

[Bella-Motor-HP]

I don't see any routing or connections anywhere. Did you machine the webbed face of the bore to make clearence.
I see the turn lines ( machining marks on that surface ).

 

[JTK77]

I don't see any routing or connections anywhere. Did you machine the webbed face of the bore to make clearence.
I see the turn lines ( machining marks on that surface ).

Did not make any mods in this regard to the rotor side. I did make room for wiring and tubing on the stator side only + the cover plate.All the added connections goes through cover plate through this custom part.

 

[Bella-Motor-HP]

I see Nice Job.

Can one of you guys tell me WHICH STOCK BAFANG Displays I can choose from.
Can I use any one I want that is (BAFANG)?
It is for the G062 1000W HUB MOTOR.
I want to be able to connect it to my PC and tune the settings.
Which one is the most programmable?

This is the controller I got to start with, so this display needs to work with this control.

YLLSF

for Bafang G062 hub motor 48V 30A 1000W controller UART, G062 1KW​

*Used to replace electric bike part for G062 series motors
*design for bafang Motor Controller 48V 1000W ,750W (option)
*easy to use and install,1000W /750W power support ，good compatibility
*It can be used with BAFANG display, throttle and brake lever. It is limited to BAFANG brand throttle and display and brake lever

Specifications:

type: Motor Controller

Color: silver

48V 30A

for BAFANG G062 motor。G060 （options）

 

[Bella-Motor-HP]

Well I ended up buying a Egg Rider.
it's programable & tuneable for a stock type Bafang Controller.
I hope more that it is compatible with the controller I bought. If not I will have to get a different controller.
The plan is to run everything pretty much stock a first to develop a baseline.
Then I want to get a phaserunner if there available soon.
Looks like only the baserunner is available and i want the option to run 72 or higher volts eventually.

Got the motor and wheel today. Getting ready to start pulling it apart.

 

[JTK77]

I'm also using Eggrider with ASI BAC2000 and Kilowatt app. Excellent Combo. Basically Grin phaserunner is rebranded ASI BAC855.
Did some tests yesterday. Topspeed 49 mph.
Acceleration
0-30 mph 2.6s
0-40 mph 5.4s

 

[Bella-Motor-HP]

Damm, Eggrider just messaged me back that it's not compatible.
I don't see why it wouldn't be though. I wonder if they just don't know the controller so they are unsure.
If there not sure they are gonna say it's not compatible. I already ordered it so it's on the way.

The control will have the correct cable type to connect to it.
But I guess it's possible the pinout could be wired differently.
I already have the control apart to install 10ga leads and phase wires. The pinout for each line is clearly marked on the circuit board. I can move things around if I need to. I know the control is UART and so is eggrider so the communication protocol is correct. Also on the control board there is RX and TX (receive / Transmit) for CAN. So there are 2 ways of communicating with the control board. I'm going to have to check the pinout on the Control and the pinout on the Eggrider and make them match. So i guess i gotta find that information now.

 

[amradio]

New member here. I've been reading and learning about the G062 for a long time. I have a stock motor right now and want to run a KT controller from affordableebikes.ca. They have a 45A controller with an L1121 motor connection.

NEW 2024 - KT 45A 40-75 Sine Wave WP Brushless Motor Controller (48-60

We have requested the best from the KT (Kunteng) Factory! These new controllers are compact, super smooth, and feature rich!Please Note : It seems that BAFANG G063 1000W may not be compatible with this controller.Distinct Features Include- All Waterproof Connections (Uses 1T5 Harness Cable for...

www.affordableebikes.ca

I have the L1019 end. They sell a premade adapter. Boosted has stated in this tread that a maximum of about 60 to 75 phase amps to a stock motor. I'm not sure what the phase amps would be with this controller. It doesn't state it. My motor is stock and I don't really want to vent my hub as I ride in some muddy conditions sometimes. Will this controller be to much for a stock, unvented G062? Should I just use the C5 parameter in the LCD8H display and limit the power down? I've been told by a few people they have run this much power to a stock unit for years with no issues. I have gotten rid of the stock white "so called grease" and put some Mobil SHC 100 on the gears. I want to run with the sensors, so I will have no temperature indication of the hub motor, and there is no room to run another wire through the axle. Any suggestion or tips on this setup would be appreciated.

 

[Boosted]

New member here. I've been reading and learning about the G062 for a long time. I have a stock motor right now and want to run a KT controller from affordableebikes.ca. They have a 45A controller with an L1121 motor connection.

NEW 2024 - KT 45A 40-75 Sine Wave WP Brushless Motor Controller (48-60

We have requested the best from the KT (Kunteng) Factory! These new controllers are compact, super smooth, and feature rich!Please Note : It seems that BAFANG G063 1000W may not be compatible with this controller.Distinct Features Include- All Waterproof Connections (Uses 1T5 Harness Cable for...

www.affordableebikes.ca

I have the L1019 end. They sell a premade adapter. Boosted has stated in this tread that a maximum of about 60 to 75 phase amps to a stock motor. I'm not sure what the phase amps would be with this controller. It doesn't state it. My motor is stock and I don't really want to vent my hub as I ride in some muddy conditions sometimes. Will this controller be to much for a stock, unvented G062? Should I just use the C5 parameter in the LCD8H display and limit the power down? I've been told by a few people they have run this much power to a stock unit for years with no issues. I have gotten rid of the stock white "so called grease" and put some Mobil SHC 100 on the gears. I want to run with the sensors, so I will have no temperature indication of the hub motor, and there is no room to run another wire through the axle. Any suggestion or tips on this setup would be appreciated.

60-75 phase amps I would consider the limit for "safe". You can run more, just when going beyond that number the chance you have motor issues starts to increase. The gears, the parallel key, and the heat itself from the motor, a "warm" motor can overheat and melt the windings in as little as 30 seconds or so running high phase amps, in addition to possible mechanical damage.

You can sacrifice the gray speed wire and turn it into a temp sensor wire if you have a compatible controller/display.

You can use any controller and just solder up an L1019 to it. I would guess that controller puts out around 60 phase amps, I have no idea, that would just be my guess. Just FYI, Even 60 phase amps is enough to melt the motor if you are climbing steep enough hills full power for long enough.

 

[amradio]

60-75 phase amps I would consider the limit for "safe". You can run more, just when going beyond that number the chance you have motor issues starts to increase. The gears, the parallel key, and the heat itself from the motor, a "warm" motor can overheat and melt the windings in as little as 30 seconds or so running high phase amps, in addition to possible mechanical damage.

You can sacrifice the gray speed wire and turn it into a temp sensor wire if you have a compatible controller/display.

You can use any controller and just solder up an L1019 to it. I would guess that controller puts out around 60 phase amps, I have no idea, that would just be my guess. Just FYI, Even 60 phase amps is enough to melt the motor if you are climbing steep enough hills full power for long enough.

Thanks. I'm new to the ebike mods. I'm used to more mechanical than electrical. So I could wire up a thermistor to the gray wire and get a temperature readout on a compatible display? I'd just loose speed indication?
I do climb some hills, and my stock controller isn't enough. It's all a learn as I go. In your experience, what fails first, the nylon gear or melted windings?

 

[Boosted]

Thanks. I'm new to the ebike mods. I'm used to more mechanical than electrical. So I could wire up a thermistor to the gray wire and get a temperature readout on a compatible display? I'd just loose speed indication?
I do climb some hills, and my stock controller isn't enough. It's all a learn as I go. In your experience, what fails first, the nylon gear or melted windings?

Thermistor - yes exactly. Some controllers that have phase speed sensing will still give you a speed readout even without the speed wire, you just wont get the speed readout when OFF the throttle (because its freewheeling).

What fails first - It depends. If you run 90+ phase amps (say you run like 150 phase amps) you could potentially shear the key, or damage the gears within the first 1/4 mile, if you are doing wheelies and hard starts, it could cause mechanical damage almost immediately (although those items can be upgraded somewhat). You can melt the windings with 50 phase amps, or 150 phase amps either way, it will just overheat much faster the higher the phase amps you use. With 150 phase amps you could potentially overheat a cold motor within a minute or two under the worst conditions, where 60 phase amps it may take a few minutes under the worst conditions. A temp sensor would help prevent overheating.

 

[Chargeride]

The very first thing to do is remove the push connector, it will melt into a blob with minutes under hard use.