Bafang 750w Rear Hub Motor Owners Talk to Me! & Help/Advice! :/

[NBK_Rebel_87]

Hi there fellow Bafang Owners!

Has anyone here had any issues with theirs? What issues? Any tips, advice you have?

Stick with me now as I will get to the point of the post below!

Here is my experience:

I bought a Cyrusher XF800 Fat E-Bike last summer which has a Bafang 750w Motor 48v 13ah Battery. Great looking bike, front and back suspension looks the business! Great power great assist for hills especially for me as I suffer with Fibromyalgia so all round good bike for generic riding and flat dirt offroad.

Had a good ride through last summer and started taking the bike out at the beginning of summer this year, had around 500miles on the motor until I was riding through my usual route in the woods and as I was going quite fast down a dry bumpy dirt hill the back wheel hit like a tree root or something with a bang and suddenly there was a grinding noise and I had to pull over as the LCD screen was flashing '03 info' I couldn't find what '03 info' meant but I did find something about the hall sensor.

Anyway the bike was dead, when you powered it off and back on you could throttle it but it would make a horrible grinding sound and would cut out after a second and flash the same error.
My only option was to purchase a new motor, it was 21 days after my 1 year warranty so no help from Cyrusher at all, zero customer service.
I bought a 750w Bafang Motor from here:

48 - 60v 750w Bafang geared rear hub motor

This rear-drive motor, which is compatible with the disc brake, has a rated power of 250-750W, a reduction ratio of 1: 5 and a maximum torque of 80 N.m, providing ideal power for vehicles. Strong and efficient, this motor, working together with a fre

electrobikeworld.com

***Arrived international postage from China to UK with around 2 weeks!***

After I received the motor I followed the advice from CitizenCyclist on youtube on how to change the motor internals which was a piece of cake! BUT when I went to plug the power cable into the plug coming from the controller unit I realised it was too bloody short at 250mm!!!! My original Bafang 750w Motor had a 300mm cable coming out of it :/
It was short by around 50mm and there was no slack to free up that gap
The only extension I could find was a bloody 44inch extension also from electrobikeworlds website. That was ordered on 7th July and still hasn't even left the damn country of origin (You guessed it, CHINA!) Plus the website owner who replies stopped replying when I mentioned about it taking so long and he tracking not moving for a couple weeks.

So finally my question to other Bafang experienced owners, where do you buy your spare parts and cables from? Also if an extension cable is not available have any of you had experience cutting the motor cable and soldering a length of extra cable to it? I will literally need to cut the plug off, cut a section of my old cable off and add it to the new motor cable , then finally solder the end plug back on.....In theory that should fix my problem but wondering if anyone has had to cut and solder cables on this motor and did they have any similar issues?

Thanks for reading my essay! LOL! Here are some pics and a video of the issue I am having with my Bafang 750w motor!!!!

 

[PedalUma]

Got it. I can help with a first response and other's will soon join in.
Just to get this out of the way upfront. Stuff that used to take nine days to ship is now taking 29-days for everyone. Yes I splice cables regularly. I do internal wiring on mid-drives this way. The splice can be staggered if you wish. So it is not a big lump. You can use small heat shrink tubes to cover each wire's connection point with a larger adhesive tube to bind them all together. The Hall sensor is the cadence pickup between the pedals. Often these need adjustment by moving the wheel of magnets closer to the sensor or by bending the sensor closer with your thumb. I do not ride hub-drives but I do repair them when no one else will touch them. If all else fails look on eBay for your hub-motor parts. You will pay more if a seller has domestic inventory in stock. Remember, they had to plan than wait 29-days before they could offer it for sale.
Here is what a bike looks like with spliced cables. Clean. And, yes it is electric with no visible connections.

 

[NBK_Rebel_87]

Go it. I can help with a first response and other's will soon join in.
Just to get this out of the way upfront. Stuff that used to take nine days to ship is now taking 29-days for everyone. Yes I splice cables regularly. I do internal wiring on mid-drives this way. The splice can be staggered if you wish. So it is not a big lump. You can use small heat shrink tubes to cover each wire's connection point with a larger adhesive tube to bind them all together. The Hall sensor is the cadence pickup between the pedals. Often these need adjustment by moving the wheel of magnets closer to the sensor or by bending the sensor closer with your thumb. I do not ride hub-drives but I do repair them when no one else will touch them. If all else fails look on eBay for your hub-motor parts. You will pay more if a seller has domestic inventory in stock. Remember, they had to plan than wait 29-days before they could offer it for sale.
Here is what a bike looks like with spliced cables. Clean. And, yes it is electric with no visible connections.

Thanks for the response! Although the error code is for the hall sensor I believe the problem is the motor itself from the grinding in that video I shared. On inspection when removing it from the casing it looked fine although I noticed some rust in there. The nylon cogs are fine too so not sure what is causing the grinding. Funny thing is I need to plug the new motor in to see if it actually is just the motor causing the error code but can't due to the cable coming out of the new motor being too damn short at the moment.

I have all my electrical tape and tubing for protection as I will harvest the old motors wiring to extend my new motors 'motor-cable' I think now rather than waiting for that 44inch extension to arrive on the slow boat from china, stupid ordering it to be honest to cover a 50mm gap as I will need to cut and shorten that anyway.

I have looked on Ebay extensively and that extension cable in the picture I attached is non existent on there. The only cables like that on Ebay are those 7-9 skinny pin ones when mine is 3 thick pins. I'm not up to scratch on all the terminology of the components etc but am trying to learn what does what. Even the damn motor itself is not easy to find from a trustworthy seller. I have been advised to just upgrade from the 3rd Gen Bafang 750w to the 4th Gen and rewire the whole bike with it but that is £750 plus shipping from China and I am not confident spending that amount of money and waiting months for it to bloody arrive.

Once I get the bike running again I will update this post with what I did etc with a review. I hope the motor is identical in power as my original was 750w but outputs up to 1500w power wise I think.

Thanks for the confidence to go ahead with splicing as I have been apprehensive to do so. Shame I don't have a specialist nearby where I am in the UK to check the old motor over to see if it is refurbish-able as I won't even attempt to dig at the innards of it.

 

[NBK_Rebel_87]

I don't have personal experience specifically to motor cable, but I had to shorten brake inhibitor wires (which is only 3 pin, instead of 9 pin like motor).

If you go on YouTube, this person shortened quite a few wires too.

If you're not comfortable shortening wires yourself, just take it to local electrical shop.
Shortening a 9 pin motor wire should be a non-event for an electrician

I think I will cut a length out of the old motor cable and basically cut the plug off the new one, lengthen it then reattach the plug. Sounds easy just hope splicing it will definitely work otherwise that's two motors f*cked to someone with my lack of technical inexperience! LOL! I'm a rider with basic knowledge, but am trying to learn the correct terminology so I can repair and keep my bike going when It needs repairs.

Yeah that is probably the most obvious option, it's a damn electrical cable so any electrician should be able to repair it lol. I can cut and solder but I would rather watch a pro do it and learn than bodge it and f*ck it up. Thing is I only swapped over the motor's internals over as I didn't want to get the spokes rethreaded so I will have to get an electrician to come to me.

I'll update the post when it's done. The replies have given me confidence to splice the cables rather than wait for the extension. Summers nearly over I want to go out riding a few more times before the bike gets locked away for the winter!

Cheers for the reply!

 

[AHicks]

Is this the one you have on order?

750w Bafang motor extension cable

750w Bafang motor extension cable will allow you to extend, place and install your controller in areas normally won't be able to reach. This extension cable has the male plug on one end and a female plug on the other end to fit our 750w Bafang rear

electrobikeworld.com

 

[Dave Rocks]

You don't really have winter in Watford.

 

[NBK_Rebel_87]

You don't really have winter in Watford.

I'm in the UK , the whole country suffers long shitty winters here buddy! Whether you are all the way up in Scotland or all the way down south in London, the winters are most of the year and terrible! We are a country known for shitty weather around the world!

 

[rich c]

Based on my experience with a Bafang 500w geared hub motor, you had a failed hall sensor in the motor. Either that or a cold solder joint on a hall sensor. When my failed, I plugged the motor in my second identical bike that my adult kids ride with me. Same exact code 03 after just a couple seconds of running. There are a few videos on youtube for replacing the hall sensor if you want a back-up motor.

 

[tomjasz]

A good source of adapters and cables in the EU.

 

[m@Robertson]

Is this the one you have on order?

750w Bafang motor extension cable

750w Bafang motor extension cable will allow you to extend, place and install your controller in areas normally won't be able to reach. This extension cable has the male plug on one end and a female plug on the other end to fit our 750w Bafang rear

electrobikeworld.com

Yes that is the motor extension for the high-wattage 750w motor.

I used to converse with one of the owners of that site and she special-ordered those cables. Used to have much shorter ones and I kick myself for never having socked one away while they were available.

Here is one only 100 cm long . I have seen them shorter and Isuggest looking on this site for an alternative. Particularly the HIGO extension sellers who often have a motor cable extension tucked in with their many pictured options.

36.0US $ |Z916 Motor Cable Julet Connector Higo Male And Female Side Extension Big 9pin With 3 Phrase And 6 Signal Wires Bafang Fat Hub - Electric Bicycle Accessories - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[m@Robertson]

BTW the name of that plug is a 'Julet Z916'. Google that for more options.

 

[NBK_Rebel_87]

Is this the one you have on order?

750w Bafang motor extension cable

750w Bafang motor extension cable will allow you to extend, place and install your controller in areas normally won't be able to reach. This extension cable has the male plug on one end and a female plug on the other end to fit our 750w Bafang rear

electrobikeworld.com

Yes mate that's the one! It's taking ages man! Probs going to splice some cables before it arrives

 

[NBK_Rebel_87]

Based on my experience with a Bafang 500w geared hub motor, you had a failed hall sensor in the motor. Either that or a cold solder joint on a hall sensor. When my failed, I plugged the motor in my second identical bike that my adult kids ride with me. Same exact code 03 after just a couple seconds of running. There are a few videos on youtube for replacing the hall sensor if you want a back-up motor.

I added a video to the original post did you check it out? Would the Hall Sensor cause a grinding noise from the motor?

 

[m@Robertson]

I added a video to the original post did you check it out? Would the Hall Sensor cause a grinding noise from the motor?

Does it just grind when you are starting up and then it settles down? If so that usually means loose magnets.
Just watched the vid. Boy that sure sounds like a gear. If you saw the planetaries are ok... what about the central metal sun gear the nylon ones plug into?
What about the outside gear in the casing?

 

[NBK_Rebel_87]

It just grinds when you throttle it for a few seconds then the power cuts off as the '03 info' flashes on the LCD screen.
When I took the motor out of the casing it looks fine although there was some rust on the out rim . The nylon cogs looked fine, the thing is I don't exactly know what to look for as I am an amateur. I'll google the part names you have mentioned and check them over.

I do remember when I took the new motor innards out of the casing, the part that holds the nylon cogs was free if you wanted to separate it but when I took the '03 info' motor innards out both parts were stuck together. I'll take some pics and post a video later today, see if anyone can spot any issues. Otherwise I'll just keep the old motor until I find someone near me in the UK who works on these motors to possibly refurb it if possible.

Thanks for the reply will reply again when I get a chance to get fiddle with the old motor.

 

[harryS]

You should know this, as your picture of the old cable shows that you already opened it, but there should be three thick wires and six thin wires in the motor cable. So nine splices to make, but the three thick wires need some expertise. Yeah, get a electrical guy to do it for you.

 

[m@Robertson]

It just grinds when you throttle it for a few seconds then the power cuts off as the '03 info' flashes on the LCD screen.
When I took the motor out of the casing it looks fine although there was some rust on the out rim . The nylon cogs looked fine, the thing is I don't exactly know what to look for as I am an amateur. I'll google the part names you have mentioned and check them over.

I do remember when I took the new motor innards out of the casing, the part that holds the nylon cogs was free if you wanted to separate it but when I took the '03 info' motor innards out both parts were stuck together. I'll take some pics and post a video later today, see if anyone can spot any issues. Otherwise I'll just keep the old motor until I find someone near me in the UK who works on these motors to possibly refurb it if possible.

So... if the planetary gear was separated at one point... and then it was back together... what happened to the little key that holds the gears snug against the axle? It looks like a little pill. Made of solid steel. Its hard to tell if your comments above are mentioning that key, or the gear assembly.

If the key was ricocheting around inside the motor, that would be a bad thing.

 

[rich c]

I added a video to the original post did you check it out? Would the Hall Sensor cause a grinding noise from the motor?

It really does. Sounds between a shudder and a grinding noise. Sounds horrible. Sound explained early in this video.

 

[NBK_Rebel_87]

Just a quick update!

I managed to take the controller unit off my bike to give up some slack to test the new motor - It works. Also when I took my old motor out of the box and pulled the polystyrene out there was a god damn cable under it I didn't see that plugs into the motor cable and runs up to the controller unit HOWEVER my controller unit can only be removed from it's protective casing, the unit itself is a bloody sealed unit!!! Such a shame as the cable was long enough and would of reached the motor cable! I wouldn't of needed the extension or to splice cables BUT as I said the unit is sealed with the chipboard being sealed in also so I can't get access to changes the connectors over :/

So I've decided to cut the controller unit cable and add the spare controller cable to make it longer as it will be cheaper to replace a controller than a motor if I f*ck the splicing up. Also I managed to get hold of some extra small crimping connectors and shrink wrap so I will give that ago instead of soldering first as I have to do it while the cables hang of the bike.

I'll post a few pics and vids if it successful on sunday.

Until then have a good weekend!

 

[NBK_Rebel_87]

Finally got my bike going again. Watched countless soldering technique videos and crimping. I started crimping but was having issues so decided to solder!

I ended up soldering the wires, wrapped them with heat shrink and electrical tape. Can't believe it worked! Only thing is I have a huge lump where all cables were soldered lol! Thanks for the replies to give me the confidence to give it a go. I only have a photo of the cables mid solder but I will get one of the finished job when I next go round to where my bike is stored while it's been off the road.