Bafang 750 Watt, Integrated Wheel, Rear Hub Fat Bike Motor

[harryS]

The internal speed sensor is a 4th Hall device that pulses once per RPM. Lots of geared motors have them, including, I think the GMAC you like. They're in my Bafang G60 fat bike motor, all the BMSBattery motors, a MXUS XF07 that I bvught this winter, and whatever they use in my Ecotric. Only have one motor that doesn't have them, but it's a simple ebike.

Nothing to lose by wiring all 9 wires of the motor cable, as it will be connected by default if it's in the motor. SInce his present controller does speed, there's a speed sensor somewhere. With the KT system, you do have to set the P2 to 1 on an LCD3 or LCD8H.

If the bike uses an external sensor, he will have to add three wires. He needs to tap off the red, black and white wires on that motor cable and connect them to the external sensor.

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[AHicks]

I agree. Wire it in and try it, knowing full well what will need to be done if it does go to -0- when coasting.

Adding speed control sensor would be pretty easy. You can use the positive and negative from the throttle, PAS sensor, or the hub sensor wires. The third wire (the sensor) would hook up to the white wire going to the control. White wire leading inside of hub motor would not be used.

MAC motor will register speed when under power and go to zero with no external speed sensor. Minor detail that can be cleaned up later. Let's not loose any sleep over it.....

 

[Bravesst]

Wow, that's a lot of information. I've been reading, rereading, and I'm sure I will many more times. As of right now, I can only identify one cable coming from my Bafang motor. And yes it is geared. The cable comes right through the axle / nut on the right side of the bike.

 

[AHicks]

One CABLE from motor, that contains 9 wires would be expected.

The bigger question I have, is about the cable on the controller side, that's supposed to plug into the cable coming from the motor. How many wires? Is it just the 3 you show in the pic, or are there more that are maybe hidden from view?

 

[harryS]

Ahicks, you can barely see the side contacts around the three pins in that picture. It's probably a better connector than the 9 pin one already on his bike, if it has lower insertion force.

I see two choices. Cut the 9 pin off the old controller and splice or buy a 9 pin Bafang cable. Splice that. Better to preserve the old controller.

Too bad all the sellers are in CHina. Shipping can be variable.

I ordered an LCD3 display from PSWpower at the end of April and it shipped to the USA within 4 days. Umfortunately, the box has been in customs since May 6. I'm jealous the OP already got his stuff,

 

[AHicks]

PSWpower is a great source, but you don't hear about it much. It's a fact you don't want to be in too big a hurry for anything ordered there though. Probably not that much different than other Chinese dealers though...

"I see two choices. Cut the 9 pin off the old controller and splice or buy a 9 pin Bafang cable. Splice that. Better to preserve the old controller."

Agree completely. Using the one from the existing controller will require a leap of faith. No turning back from that point, but it would let you get started on the upgrade right away.

 

[Bravesst]

Maybe this will clear things up. The motor cable has a 3 pin jack, with another cable extension from motor to controller, also 3 pin (exact same).

showing the other end of the cable plugged into the motor...

 

[AHicks]

Clear as mud....

For sure there are the 3 main (phase) wires. In the second picture, I see pretty clearly there are 6 more contacts arranged around the outside of the 3 phase wires.

So, is the second picture the plug leading to the controller, or to the motor?

It LOOKS like the new controller plug might match up with the plug in the first pick above - IF - they are indexed properly (turned the right way, arrows matching).

 

[Bravesst]

Second pic is the plug leading to the controller...

 

[AHicks]

The 2 controller plugs (new and old) look like a match to me.....

 

[Bravesst]

@AHicks they do match, what does that mean for the rest of the plugs?

 

[AHicks]

Plug them in and try them?

 

[Bravesst]

I'll take a closer look. I know the battery plug is different, but maybe can be changed from battery connector side vs controller. Would it be possible for all installed hardware to just plug in (throttle, brakes, cadence, PA, etc).

 

[AHicks]

I'll just say ANYTHING is possible!

Myself, after plugging in the motor, I would take it one step at a time. Pretty sure the display is going to work, and maybe even the brake switches (if the plugs match). Where I would start being careful is with the throttle.
Prior to installing all of the new stuff, it may pay you well to figure out what color wires do what there (the throttle) and the PAS sensor (hot, ground, and sensor, using a voltmeter), and write than info down.

If you figure those out using the original controller and wire harness, they'll be MUCH easier to confirm when installing the new one - without just plugging them in to see if they work.

That's how I would do it anyway.

 

[Bravesst]

52v battery arrived, I gave a quick test spin, maybe 1 mph faster. If I ever get this new controller working, the 52v should really make a difference.

Here's what I've run into.

New controller battery cable:

found these on Amazon

Amazon.com: Amass 5 Pair XT90S XT90-S XT90 Connector Anti-Spark Male Female Connector for Battery, ESC and Charger Lead: Toys & Games

Amazon.com: Amass 5 Pair XT90S XT90-S XT90 Connector Anti-Spark Male Female Connector for Battery, ESC and Charger Lead: Toys & Games

www.amazon.com

Old controller battery cable

Inside the battery connector are two wires that are connected to the actual terminal.

Here's more of what they included

 

[Wesleykent]

Hi Court. I am looking to upgrade my e-bike and looking to get a descent controller which can supply 50A continous current. Do you know any reliable one. most controllers I find can only supply 30 or at best 40A

 

[AHicks]

52v battery arrived, I gave a quick test spin, maybe 1 mph faster. If I ever get this new controller working, the 52v should really make a difference.

Here's what I've run into.

New controller battery cable:
View attachment 56093

found these on Amazon

Amazon.com: Amass 5 Pair XT90S XT90-S XT90 Connector Anti-Spark Male Female Connector for Battery, ESC and Charger Lead: Toys & Games

Amazon.com: Amass 5 Pair XT90S XT90-S XT90 Connector Anti-Spark Male Female Connector for Battery, ESC and Charger Lead: Toys & Games

www.amazon.com

Old controller battery cable
View attachment 56094

Inside the battery connector are two wires that are connected to the actual terminal.

Here's more of what they included
View attachment 56095
View attachment 56096

Looks like you have the option of using the old PAS sensor, or installing the new one. My question there would be which appears easier?

We already know you are going to be replacing the battery connector. Knew that going into this. A new battery side didn't ship with the controller? I ask as I think they showed one in a picture.

 

[Bravesst]

Yes, I have another battery slide to work with, but it shipped with the new battery, and it has a totally different connector. Changing the connectors seems like fairly basic soldering / heat shrink job. I've already ordered connectors and wrap. I'll take a look at the PAS sensor tomorrow. Where would that be located exactly?

 

[AHicks]

On the shaft between the pedal crank arms.

 

[Bravesst]

Waiting on battery connector (mistakenly bought xt90 vs xt60, but will be here tomorrow). so I took a closer look at the current set up.

current motor cable that my controller motor cable fits

current cable with new controller terminal - not sure what this cable does (JULET VS LERMEW)