Bafang 750 Watt, Integrated Wheel, Rear Hub Fat Bike Motor

[Bravesst]

I like the Bolton for the tail light option, because the bike has that now (pre-order for July).
OR
Order from PSP, which appears to be set up for a Bafang fat tire motor. Hopefully, their promise of website working on Monday is true.

If connectors do not match, what would be my options?

 

[AHicks]

The Bolton kit should never have even been brought up when considering your bike is not a RAD or a Sonders. It's added nothing but confusion.

There's very little chance of an "IF" when considering a match in the wiring/connectors with one of those kits matching what you need. It's NOT going to match.

Your options would be to cut the ends off the Bolton "kit", cut the ends off the components you are replacing so you can use them over again, and match the wiring one wire at a time. This looses the entire advantage of the Bolton's plug an play concept as the price of his components are much higher that what you can buy them for on the open market (at places like PSWpower).

 

[harryS]

From what I've seen over the years, RAD's motor cable uses a different "water proof" plug than most other motors that follow the Bafang standard. I just looked at a Bolton how-to video and I believe that's still true.

I believe you have to buy a standard motor cable and splice it into the Bolton. It's not an easy splice if you want to make it (a) look good and (b) not fail mechanically. So don't pay $100 extra ($199 for the Bolton kit) if you have to do that.

Here's what the 9 pin plug looks like that comes out of most motors that I've seen. As far as I know, that's not what RAD uses.



The PSW power kits don't come with water proof motor connectors either. If that''s what your Admotor uses. and it probably does, you'll be splicing that. But a 25A sinewave controller and LCD8H display is under $100 when you buy it elsewhere.

 

[Bravesst]

Thanks guys, I believe PSW does offer some water proof options. I agree, no reason to use Bolton if I have to modify. My problem with PSW is they seem to be having a problem with shipping to the US right now. In the meantime, I'm going to take a really close look at my bike, and try and order from PSW one more time (their customer service said it would work on Monday). For under $100, it's not that big of a risk, but that's without the shipping fee.

 

[Bravesst]

Unfortunately PSW's website is still not allowing me to checkout. I'll keep trying. In the meantime, I had ordered a 56 tooth chainring to see if has any effect on top speed (installed by not fully tested). With the original ring (48), it was impossible to pedal and have any effect in PA 5 (full power). Then I installed a 52 tooth, much better in PA 4 and even 5, but the first 3 or 4 gears were still unusable except at 0 PA AND up a steep hill. With the 56 tooth ring I can feel even more torque, and I think I can really contribute to the ride in PA 5, and possibly even use some of the lower gears. Either way, I'm not a high cadence guy, and if i can ever order my new controller, it may really turn this bike into what I want. Only problem is I absolutely cannot find a 56 tooth chainring guard. I'll see today, how this chainring effects top speed.

In the meantime, I'm now cruising at 18 to 20, and still be able to pedal - very satisfying. I find I use the throttle to kind of strike a balance between PA 4 and 5 (full). If I could customize these setting, I'd probably change the PA numbers - lower PA 1, raise PA 4, and evenly space 2 and 3, while maxing out 5.

Hopefully PSW will be true to what they said about Monday.

 

[Bravesst]

That's it... 4 proprietary connectors that need to match. How do you go about splicing in connectors like this? I guess I need to pop off my connectors and take a pic. XT60, I'll try and see. And what's the deal with the tail light connector? Is that a recent addition to controllers? And just FYI, my controller is 25A now.

 

[Bravesst]

@Timbo 25 amp controller mounted under the seat, accessed by removing saddle. There is definitely a rear light wire also.

 

[Bravesst]

Purchase made, $171 with shipping. Now I'm looking for the best spare battery (I'd like to run two), maybe a tad more amp, as I know there is a 48V / 17A that is sold for other addmotor bikes with a 750 watt engine.

Nice ride today, big fat crankring powers this thing up and provides the perfect combo to the throttle. I developed a nice back and forth between throttle only to get moving, then cruising in 7th speed with throttle at about 90% (guess) and PA is 3 or 4. Feel like I have tons of control, can still accelerate a bit at 18.

I did the test with the rear wheel raised - 21 mph, no more. I think the speedometer on the bike is about 1.5 mph slow, as compared to my GPS. I've seen 24 on GPS, but can push to 23 all the time. On the LCD, never past 20.2 or so.

When the controller arrives, it would be awesome if it were plug and play, and I have a feeling it is made for the BF fat tire rear hub. Let's hope addmotor didn't change anything, but if they did, I will work it out - hopefully with some help.

I can see where this is a must (learing to work on my own bike), as I'm having a hard time getting a bike shop that seems enthused to work on my bike. Today I adjusted the brakes for the first time (just took stretch out of the cables from brand new), ordered some pads for a future replacement - little by little I will get the hang of this. Who knows, maybe one day I can build my own bike.

 

[tomjasz]

Purchase made, $171 with shipping. Now I'm looking for the best spare battery (I'd like to run two), maybe a tad more amp, as I know there is a 48V / 17A that is sold for other addmotor bikes with a 750 watt engine.

Nice ride today, big fat crankring powers this thing up and provides the perfect combo to the throttle. I developed a nice back and forth between throttle only to get moving, then cruising in 7th speed with throttle at about 90% (guess) and PA is 3 or 4. Feel like I have tons of control, can still accelerate a bit at 18.

I did the test with the rear wheel raised - 21 mph, no more. I think the speedometer on the bike is about 1.5 mph slow, as compared to my GPS. I've seen 24 on GPS, but can push to 23 all the time. On the LCD, never past 20.2 or so.

When the controller arrives, it would be awesome if it were plug and play, and I have a feeling it is made for the BF fat tire rear hub. Let's hope addmotor didn't change anything, but if they did, I will work it out - hopefully with some help.

I can see where this is a must (learing to work on my own bike), as I'm having a hard time getting a bike shop that seems enthused to work on my bike. Today I adjusted the brakes for the first time (just took stretch out of the cables from brand new), ordered some pads for a future replacement - little by little I will get the hang of this. Who knows, maybe one day I can build my own bike.

You’ll get all the help you need! Posting pictures makes helping you much easier. Good on you for taking it on and learning. Your posting pictures and results will help someone else. Higo and Julet have been interchangeable for me so far. There’s a new battery charging cable out there. Cusmade. Unlike the 5.5mm x 2.1mm common cable only specified for 2A charging it’s safe at 5A.

 

[Bravesst]

I'll get some pics of the controller (frame mounted under seat). This is actually a decent look at the M-7 with the 56 tooth chainring, which really makes it a different bike for me. I really can't wait to work on this controller swap out.

 

[Bravesst]

As I wait for my kit to arrive, I want to start working on my spare battery. What is the general consensus on DHGate?
>> 48 / 17.5 OR >> 52 Any opinions?


My current battery is a 48/14 in a Hailong case just like in these pics. Looks like the same connector as well.

As I reach out to more bike shops, so far I've gotten a quote of $100 an hour with $150 deposit, from a bike shop in Brooklyn, about 40 miles from where I live now. I have a *consultation* with a local shop on Thursday. In the meantime, I just ordered replacement brake pads, and plan on taking care of as much as possible myself.

I haven't unplugged any of my wires, as everything is buried, zip tied. When the controller does arrive, I'll pop the seat off and take a close look. I'll take pics of the entire process. I am getting a much better understanding of what's going on here. While not rocket science, there is fair amount of knowledge and skill required, and I hope I'm not getting in over my head.

 

[Bravesst]

I know a little something about LI 18650's, and generally only buy from IMR or other reputable sellers. Mostly I use Samsung, Panasonic, etc.

>> Samsung cells / 52v / 17.5 for $446 with shipping

I guess my biggest concern is to get a battery that's interchangeable with the current set up, in other words, both will work, using the mounting system / lock set up that comes with the current mount.

 

[Bravesst]

My battery looks like the exact same case (Hyalong) in that pic. My concern is length and the little lock button. I'll measure / take a pic before I ride this AM.

 

[Bravesst]

Ali Express 52v 21ah


Am I safe to use this on my Bafang 48v, 750 watt?

 

[Bravesst]

Here's a few pics of battery / controller on my Addmotor M-7.

 

[Bravesst]

@Timpo: What about the one from >> AliExpress?
Image: >>Ali Express

 

[Bravesst]

@Timpo, no don't wanna switch cradles if possible. This is a 52v / 14 ah and ships from China. I was browsing their US warehouse and this one is 52/17
Would really like the extra range from the 17 (or even 20).

US $438.4 20% OFF|UPP 52V 17.5Ah 48V 17.5Ah Hailong Jumbo Battery Ebike Polly Battery with Samsung Cell for 750W 1000W 1500W Front/Mid/Hub Motors|electric bike battery|bike battery48v 1000w - AliExpress

Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com

www.aliexpress.com

 

[Bravesst]

What about this for an idea... Mount both batteries (IFO other battery or on downtube). Just need a way to swap back and forth. It would be a shame to not take this opportunity to go with a 20 ah. Another possibly silly question. What does it involve building one yourself? I have a great source for 18650's and pretty good soldering skills.

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Samsung 30Q 18650 3000mAh 15A Battery

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[AHicks]

One of the biggest issues of building a battery this size is coming up with the required number of MATCHED cells close enough, top to bottom, to allow you to balance them.

 

[Bravesst]

After all this, I'm probably just gonna go with the 52/14 from Ali Express... and thanks much for the advice and suggestions. Much appreciated.

I was out today, did 13 miles with lots of pedaling, but lots of assist, avg speed probably about 18 (max speed like 20 -22). With the 56 tooth chainring I can actually pedal at this pace, and I believe this is making me more efficient. Off my 48/14 I got a good 13 miles on one bar (five bars total). I'm thinking I should get over 30 miles this way, without harming the battery. I've never drained the batter down to less than 2 bars so far, and I charge right before I ride, and it's left overnight about 60 percent most of the time. I've put 360 miles on it so far.