Anybody tried Clik tire valves?

[Calcoaster]

Maybe. I use Stan's in my tubeless tires. Switched to Clik valves almost a year and 3,000 mi ago.

Flawless except for 2 top-offs in a row that made me wonder about sealant in the front valve. Used the reservoir on my Topeak Joe Blow pump to blast any plugs back into the tire. Two blasts in quick succession restored normal inflow.

Flawless ever since. Still really likin' my Cliks.

Cliks didn’t work out for me. Orange seal partially clogged them and I switched to muc off big bore lite valves. So far I’m impressed with them: all my pump heads fit well, they allow a big volume of air in, no leaking when attaching or removing the pump head, no valve core to clog or restrict the flow, easy sealant injection with no need to remove a core or any other piece, easy to dipstick check sealant level.

 

[DaveMatthews]

I wonder if they will get fouled by sealants like Stans, Slime, Flat out, etc. ?

I use regular Stan's and so far, no issues. Love it!

 

[mschwett]

i got bored one evening this week and decided to transition to clik valves ! i admit - i have not read this whole thread - but i popped in early and while it seemed like a nice system i didn't see the need. i still don't see the "need" but here are my thoughts and what i did.

first, i'll say that the choices of different items are not as clear as you'd hope. valve core replacements, whole valve replacement, adapters, replacement chucks, etc. for a few items there are choices that aren't obvious and there's no resource to help anyone know if their specific pump will work with the adapter or head. there are a lot of things that i know a bit about in the world of bikes and a lot of things i know very little about, so i have to admit i had no idea what would fit on my pump.

our fleet consists of two tubeless road bikes (one electric) with presta valves and generic cores, one all around bike (my daughter's sirrus) with presta tubes, my commuter hub-drive with schrader tubes, and my little ones cleary with schrader tubes. i have one floor pump that i really like, a silca, and one little portable inflator. i don't use CO2 anymore and never used a mini pump or frame pump.

so here's what i got

one pump head replacement, one pump adapter, and then a bunch of sets of the presta valve cores (cores only) and schrader adapters.

for those who even remotely care about elegance or aesthetics in the little things, do NOT do this. this is what my pump head with the adapter looks like. barf.

thankfully, the hose inner and outer diameters were the same, the stock one (which is super nice!!!!) removed easily, and the replacement also went on easily. very nice.

next step, remove existing valve cores. of course i took the opportunity to top off the sealant in the two tubeless bikes, which i always do with the cores out, so i have no idea if you could force sealant through these things and frankly don't understand why anyone would do that. here's a comparison of the clik valve core (left) and one of the removed ones (right). note the valve core tool i prefer.

here's the alpinist clx ii rim of the aethos with the black clik valve core and whatever tubeless stem it came with. really clean, the clik threads all the way in, quite stealth! i will say that i much prefer using the barrel end of the valve core tool, which is so easy that you can do it in the dark, but with these you can't do that, you need to get at the flats from the side. a minor drawback and given the size of the park valve core tool, i probably won't use it any more. the clik valve cores come with a little tiny one.

for reference, same setup with the generic presta. i never put caps on stuff like this, and i will admit i've bent a few of these over perhaps 15,000 miles, and this brass on black look is certainly less aesthetic!

here it is on the scott. you can see here that it doesn't look quite as slick, the clik core does not go all the way in, and there would not be a reasonable way to thread it any further without just spinning around the tubeless stem. at some point i'll take out those oil slick stems (shop didn't have black ones in stock at the time) and it'll hopefully resolve the issue.

here's my daughter's sirrus. this is whatever cheap tube spesh ships these bikes with. no fuss here, and you can twist as hard as you feel like and no risk of breaking the seal of the stem. should get silver ones for this bike.

here's where things get a little less satisfying, the schrader valve tubes on the cleary. this is ugly, but the average 7 year old won't mind a tube with a shorter thread and a black adapter would look better.

looks better on my commuter, which is also using whatever tubes it came with thousands of miles ago. patched several times, of course.

the adapter for the inflator screwed right in, it sticks out a tiny bit (the grey space between the knurled black ring here and the body of the inflator) but not bad, pretty clean!

the top right little magnetic small part box on the work wall now has 10 never-to-be-used clik dust caps, a bunch of old but still good valve cores, a couple spare clik cores, the clik valve core tool, etc etc.

my impressions from inflating everything ... very nice. nice positive click and attachment regardless of the orientation of the wheel. pumping perhaps marginally lower resistance at first, but of course once you get up in pressure it's really all about the pressure, not the flow rate. vigorous pumping didn't create any sense that the connection would leak or wiggle or bend anything. one small blast of air on every removal - i will say that i could probably do a little better there with the very-nice head on the silca pump, but you could also do worse being sloppy. amazingly, every item i bought fit correctly, and there is nothing i needed that i didn't get, which is pretty good for five bikes and two inflators! total cost was $88 plus $21.61 shipping and tax. arrived in a day or two from wherever it came from.

i think what i like best so far is how fast you can attach and remove the pump, on all five bikes. no flipping the adapter on the pump, no unscrewing the valve core, no lever to close. i rode four of the bikes up and down the block a few times, and of course they ride the same

 

[DaveMatthews]

i think what i like best so far is how fast you can attach and remove the pump, on all five bikes. no flipping the adapter on the pump, no unscrewing the valve core, no lever to close. i rode four of the bikes up and down the block a few times, and of course they ride the same

Excellent and thorough write up!
Your last paragraph is a key benefit to me as well.
I'll be very interested to hear about any differences in retention of pressure. I find it to be significant where others don't see much improvement.
Nicely done sir!

 

[mschwett]

Excellent and thorough write up!
Your last paragraph is a key benefit to me as well.
I'll be very interested to hear about any differences in retention of pressure. I find it to be significant where others don't see much improvement.
Nicely done sir!

i haven‘t been very diligent about keeping the bikes aired up since I haven’t been able to do any serious daily rides, so i‘m not sure I’ll be able to tell. I do usually lose a bit between rides on the two tubeless bikes, so it would be very interesting if that reduced. I don’t think the slow drain is valve related, I assumed porous tires, the rim seal, and my general prefernce to not put a ton of sealant in each wheel.

i will keep an eye and report back!

 

[Calcoaster]

i got bored one evening this week and decided to transition to clik valves ! i admit - i have not read this whole thread - but i popped in early and while it seemed like a nice system i didn't see the need. i still don't see the "need" but here are my thoughts and what i did.

first, i'll say that the choices of different items are not as clear as you'd hope. valve core replacements, whole valve replacement, adapters, replacement chucks, etc. for a few items there are choices that aren't obvious and there's no resource to help anyone know if their specific pump will work with the adapter or head. there are a lot of things that i know a bit about in the world of bikes and a lot of things i know very little about, so i have to admit i had no idea what would fit on my pump.

our fleet consists of two tubeless road bikes (one electric) with presta valves and generic cores, one all around bike (my daughter's sirrus) with presta tubes, my commuter hub-drive with schrader tubes, and my little ones cleary with schrader tubes. i have one floor pump that i really like, a silca, and one little portable inflator. i don't use CO2 anymore and never used a mini pump or frame pump.

so here's what i got

one pump head replacement, one pump adapter, and then a bunch of sets of the presta valve cores (cores only) and schrader adapters.

View attachment 204401

for those who even remotely care about elegance or aesthetics in the little things, do NOT do this. this is what my pump head with the adapter looks like. barf.

View attachment 204402

thankfully, the hose inner and outer diameters were the same, the stock one (which is super nice!!!!) removed easily, and the replacement also went on easily. very nice.

View attachment 204403

next step, remove existing valve cores. of course i took the opportunity to top off the sealant in the two tubeless bikes, which i always do with the cores out, so i have no idea if you could force sealant through these things and frankly don't understand why anyone would do that. here's a comparison of the clik valve core (left) and one of the removed ones (right). note the valve core tool i prefer.

View attachment 204404

here's the alpinist clx ii rim of the aethos with the black clik valve core and whatever tubeless stem it came with. really clean, the clik threads all the way in, quite stealth! i will say that i much prefer using the barrel end of the valve core tool, which is so easy that you can do it in the dark, but with these you can't do that, you need to get at the flats from the side. a minor drawback and given the size of the park valve core tool, i probably won't use it any more. the clik valve cores come with a little tiny one.

View attachment 204414

for reference, same setup with the generic presta. i never put caps on stuff like this, and i will admit i've bent a few of these over perhaps 15,000 miles, and this brass on black look is certainly less aesthetic!

View attachment 204407

here it is on the scott. you can see here that it doesn't look quite as slick, the clik core does not go all the way in, and there would not be a reasonable way to thread it any further without just spinning around the tubeless stem. at some point i'll take out those oil slick stems (shop didn't have black ones in stock at the time) and it'll hopefully resolve the issue.

View attachment 204408

here's my daughter's sirrus. this is whatever cheap tube spesh ships these bikes with. no fuss here, and you can twist as hard as you feel like and no risk of breaking the seal of the stem. should get silver ones for this bike.

View attachment 204409

here's where things get a little less satisfying, the schrader valve tubes on the cleary. this is ugly, but the average 7 year old won't mind a tube with a shorter thread and a black adapter would look better.

View attachment 204410

looks better on my commuter, which is also using whatever tubes it came with thousands of miles ago. patched several times, of course.

View attachment 204411

the adapter for the inflator screwed right in, it sticks out a tiny bit (the grey space between the knurled black ring here and the body of the inflator) but not bad, pretty clean!

View attachment 204412

the top right little magnetic small part box on the work wall now has 10 never-to-be-used clik dust caps, a bunch of old but still good valve cores, a couple spare clik cores, the clik valve core tool, etc etc.

View attachment 204413

my impressions from inflating everything ... very nice. nice positive click and attachment regardless of the orientation of the wheel. pumping perhaps marginally lower resistance at first, but of course once you get up in pressure it's really all about the pressure, not the flow rate. vigorous pumping didn't create any sense that the connection would leak or wiggle or bend anything. one small blast of air on every removal - i will say that i could probably do a little better there with the very-nice head on the silca pump, but you could also do worse being sloppy. amazingly, every item i bought fit correctly, and there is nothing i needed that i didn't get, which is pretty good for five bikes and two inflators! total cost was $88 plus $21.61 shipping and tax. arrived in a day or two from wherever it came from.

i think what i like best so far is how fast you can attach and remove the pump, on all five bikes. no flipping the adapter on the pump, no unscrewing the valve core, no lever to close. i rode four of the bikes up and down the block a few times, and of course they ride the same

Nice review and details of your impression. I found cliks to be an interesting experiment and marginally better when connecting my pump. Then they partially plugged up after a few months (orange seal) so I ditched them for muc off big bore lites. So far I much prefer the big bores and don’t see how they could ever plug up. They have much greater airflow then the cliks and I like that the built in valve insures you won’t lose any air when connecting or disconnecting the pump head. It’s also quicker and easier to add sealant or check the level with a dipstick because there’s no valve core to remove. The Clik “Click” was fun to hear though.
Your situation with several bikes might make the cliks a good choice because of the easy and quick pump connects.

 

[DaveMatthews]

I don’t think the slow drain is valve related, I assumed porous tires, the rim seal, and my general prefernce to not put a ton of sealant in each wheel.

i will keep an eye and report back!

Interesting, because the only thing I changed was the Clik valves.
Tires, sealant, everything else same. So the only conclusion I could come to were the Presta cores.

 

[Rás Cnoic]

Going to try them out in next few weeks, my local mechanic swears by them.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I have had two of them let air out when I took the pump off. it took a couple of times before they stopped doing it. not sure why maybe some of the fiber in the sealent got stuck in it?

 

[DaveMatthews]

I have had two of them let air out when I took the pump off. it took a couple of times before they stopped doing it. not sure why maybe some of the fiber in the sealent got stuck in it?

Forgot which sealant you use... I'm on Stan's