Anybody tried Clik tire valves?

So far, so good at 3 weeks into the new Clik valve cores on my 38 mm tubeless tires.

The single automatic Presta/Schrader head on my Topeak Joe Blow floor pump clicks on easily. Unlike my Prestas, perfect seal first time, every time, and no need to hold the head in place just so to keep the seal. Well worth the $12 per pair on that front alone.

Takes a little more muscle to pull the head off, losing 1-2 psi in the process at 35-40 psi. My Prestas typically lost at least that much on disconnect. The Cliks are holding pressure for at least a week.

Took installation as an opportunity to top up sealant and probably overfilled the rear, as I couldn't get a clear dipstick reading there. No clogs so far.

Overall, the Cliks are looking like winners for the money. Since I don't need the separate $12 Shrader adapter at home, I carry it for emergency air at gas stations.

The final frontier: How will the Cliks work with a CO2 cartidge when the time comes?
 
So far, so good at 3 weeks into the new Clik valve cores on my 38 mm tubeless tires.

The single automatic Presta/Schrader head on my Topeak Joe Blow floor pump clicks on easily. Unlike my Prestas, perfect seal first time, every time, and no need to hold the head in place just so to keep the seal. Well worth the $12 per pair on that front alone.

Takes a little more muscle to pull the head off, losing 1-2 psi in the process at 35-40 psi. My Prestas typically lost at least that much on disconnect. The Cliks are holding pressure for at least a week.

Took installation as an opportunity to top up sealant and probably overfilled the rear, as I couldn't get a clear dipstick reading there. No clogs so far.

Overall, the Cliks are looking like winners for the money. Since I don't need the separate $12 Shrader adapter at home, I carry it for emergency air at gas stations.

The final frontier: How will the Cliks work with a CO2 cartidge when the time comes?
Great to hear Jeremy!
I was hesitant to bug you about it (again) ;) so thanks for the update!
Sounds like your experience is rather similar to mine. Are you using a Click adaptor on the Topeak Joe Blow?
Clik FTW!!!
 
No need with this pump. In fact, the connection's easier and more secure without the adapter.

Hoping the Topeak mini hand pump on the way works as well.
Yeah, the success rate for regular pump heads is higher than expected IMHO.
Which model mini pump did you order?
 
Doesn’t using a standard presta pump, even though it fits the valve, defeat the purpose of the click-on connection you get with their Clik pump head?
 
Topeak Mountain Twin Turbo Mini with gauge. Fingers crossed (1) that I can hang it directly under my rear top tube with a Wolf Tooth inline mount, and (2) that it's Clik-friendly.
That looks like a really nice one! Kinda looks like it'll work, but will wait for your review... :)
 
The good news on the Topeak Mountain Twin Turbo Mini hand pump: In Presta configuration, works fine with Clik valves without the Clik adapter.

The bad news — for me, at least: The barrel's too fat for the centerline pump mount I want to use.
 
The good news on the Topeak Mountain Twin Turbo Mini hand pump: In Presta configuration, works fine with Clik valves without the Clik adapter.

The bad news — for me, at least: The barrel's too fat for the centerline pump mount I want to use.
Glad it works as expected, but dayum... can you find another way, or does it go back?
 
Glad it works as expected, but dayum... can you find another way, or does it go back?
Returning the pump. Besides the mounting issue, it's just too big: Won't fit in a jersey pocket, looks awkward on the bike, and I have no other place to store it out of sight.

Chose it partly for the built-in gauge, as the digital gauge I usually carry (Topeak D2) had just stopped registering pressure (probably from an internal sealant clog). May try this mechanical gauge from Clik instead:

 
Returning the pump. Besides the mounting issue, it's just too big: Won't fit in a jersey pocket, looks awkward on the bike, and I have no other place to store it out of sight.

Chose it partly for the built-in gauge, as the digital gauge I usually carry (Topeak D2) had just stopped registering pressure (probably from an internal sealant clog). May try this mechanical gauge from Clik instead:

Did the D2 snuff it before the change to Clik? I've heard of some gauges that don't work. What's next for a pump choice?
 
Did the D2 snuff it before the change to Clik? I've heard of some gauges that don't work.
Long story. Topped off sealant during the valve change, probably overfilling the rear in the process. (Tubeless newbie here.)

D2 worked fine with the front Clik but got a mouthful of sealant from the rear. Shortly thereafter, only zero pressure readings from any valve — including the Shraders on my hub drive.

And how did all that sealant get into the D2? As usual with this rear rim, the bead didn't want to reseat at first. Eventually had to blast it onto the rim with the Joe Blow pump reservoir. Guessing there was sealant everywhere inside the tire at that point, and some found its way into the valve when I checked the pressure seal with the D2 shortly thereafter. Life is complicated.

Can't see any sealant in the D2 orifice from the outside. Guess I'll try to take it apart.

What's next for a pump choice?
Take the centerline pump mount I want to a nearby LBS or two and see if a suitable pump fits. Then get a separate gauge like the Clik gauge above.
 
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Long story. Topped off sealant during the valve change, probably overfilling the rear in the process. (Tubeless newbie here.)

D2 worked fine with the front Clik but got a mouthful of sealant from the rear. Shortly thereafter, only zero pressure readings from any valve — including the Shraders on my hub drive.

And how did all that sealant get into the D2? As usual with this rear rim, the bead didn't want to reseat at first. Eventually had to blast it onto the rim with the Joe Blow pump reservoir. Guessing there was sealant everywhere inside the tire at that point, and some found its way into the valve when I checked the pressure seal with the D2 shortly thereafter. Life is complicated.

Can't see any sealant in the D2 orifice from the outside. Guess I'll try to take it apart.


Take the centerline pump mount I want to a nearby LBS or two and see if a suitable pump fits. Then get a separate gauge like the Clik gauge above.
Ratburgers... I saw one vid where the guy installed the Clik while the tire was still letting air out (I let all the air out first). So far I haven't had a bead let loose, but different tires/rims I suppose...
Bummer about the D2, and best of luck with disassembly.
Hope your hunt goes well with the right pump!
 
Ratburgers... I saw one vid where the guy installed the Clik while the tire was still letting air out (I let all the air out first). So far I haven't had a bead let loose, but different tires/rims I suppose...
Bummer about the D2, and best of luck with disassembly.
Hope your hunt goes well with the right pump!
Thanks! The rear rim may have been distorted ever so slightly when I ran over a deeply recessed drainage grate hidden in deep shade at 12-15 mph. That was just before the bike went tubeless.

No visible rim damage on 2 subsequent mechanic inspections, but this rim always has trouble capturing and retaining a tubeless bead. Bead comes off with every deflation but holds air well once it seats. Ditto with 2 different tires.

Front wheel hit the same grate with less force. But it catches the bead first time every time and keeps it when the tire's deflated.

Still love my tubeless tires, but that rear rim is a real pain.
 
Told my friend that bought my Fathom E+2 about the Clik valves. He immediately got some because he has had trouble with Presta.
He's absolutely sold on them now.
 
I got a new pump recently, and while it’s way nicer than my old one, the lever to lock the head on is so hard to fold down I worry I’m going to break the tubeless valve off! it locks on very securely even without the lever, and has me wondering about clik again 😄
 
I got a new pump recently, and while it’s way nicer than my old one, the lever to lock the head on is so hard to fold down I worry I’m going to break the tubeless valve off! it locks on very securely even without the lever, and has me wondering about clik again 😄
Too funny! What pump is it?
 
Too funny! What pump is it?

silca ”Terra.” I like the wood handle, and the guage is rock solid, super smooth. When you stop pumping it snaps to the pressure super fast and stays right there. the only other floor pump I’ve had was a cheapie (that lasted 13 years), no comparison.

the head snaps on really straight and securely, but then it’s just very hard to close the lever and you can’t really hold anything for … leverage. it also pops off very cleanly, very little air loss.

i also discovered my old pump’s gauge read high by 5-10 psi!
 
I got my Clik valves and after a glitch have them installed and working well. First, the glitch:
I got two valves and the pump head replacement with the adapter that can be used independently. I tested one valve out on my tubeless tire and it leaked at the pump head connection. I pumped the tire up but watched the pressure drop on my pump gauge when I stopped pumping. I removed and reinstalled the Clik, fiddled with the pump and pump head but still had a leak. I emailed Clik describing the problem and they replied within hours saying they were sending me two new valves, a new pump head adapter and some aluminum valve caps. A++ for customer support!

The new ones came today and I put them in and it works perfectly! I’m using the head adapter in my standard presta/schrader pump head - push it in, flip the lever up and use it that way. That makes it easy to use my pump on other presta or schrader valves - just flip the lever down and pull the Clik adapter out.

I’ll try the first batch of parts again when I get a chance but I think it may have been my error. The Clik valves thread into the presta body but then need a full revolution or so using the supplied tool after finger tightening. I’ve learned the hard way not to cinch presta cores in too much so I may have not put the cliks in tight enough.

** Edit: I tried the first pump adapter again and it leaks at the connection to the Clik valve. Swapped back to the replacement adapter and there’s no leaking.

My biggest irritation with presta has been connecting the pump cleanly so the tire doesn’t lose a bunch of air, either when I put it on or when I take it off. It’s always a pretty iffy process for me. First world problem.

The Clik adapter snaps right on without losing any air. And it unsnaps without losing any either. Seems like a winner!

The next time I replace tires I might try muc off big bore valves. Those look like they solve other tubeless issues: 250% more flow for seating tires, no clogging and no leakage at the pump head. Until then I’ll use the cliks.
 
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silca ”Terra.” I like the wood handle, and the guage is rock solid, super smooth. When you stop pumping it snaps to the pressure super fast and stays right there. the only other floor pump I’ve had was a cheapie (that lasted 13 years), no comparison.

the head snaps on really straight and securely, but then it’s just very hard to close the lever and you can’t really hold anything for … leverage. it also pops off very cleanly, very little air loss.

i also discovered my old pump’s gauge read high by 5-10 psi!
Nice looking pump!
Mine's just an inexpensive Bontrager, but works with or without a Clik adapter. Do you have multiple bikes to work on?
 
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