Being a lifelong cyclist, I can say I have never in my life felt I should be able to put my feet down on the ground while seated. To be able to do that would mean my legs while on the pedals and pedaling would be too long. A proper cycling pedal stroke - at the bottom of the stroke - should have my leg slightly bent and the ball of my feet not extended further down below the level of my heels. Not stretching my foot down in other words.
You can't sit on a bike saddle and put your feet on the ground if you've done the pedal stroke fitment right on the bike. The whole seated-and-planted thing is a common desire from motorcyclists as its natural and expected to be able to do that on that platform.
On a bicycle, you brake and then as you come to a stop you stand on the ground in front of the saddle (back in the day I could do the 'track stand' about 98% of the time which is balance while at a standstill while my feet were cleated into the pedals... not 100%; 98%).
This is why the 'standover' frame specification is so important as if the top tube is too high you give yourself a nutcracker every time you stop the bike. Standover is the #1 thing you have to measure and get right when sizing yourself for a bike frame. Nothing else matters as much.
If you have to plant your feet while seated, the way you have to do it is to throttle the bike so you can give up on your pedal stroke. Anything else and you will come up with one compromise after another that does the job wrong in a slightly different way.
Matt
Thanks for the information, and I'll add some info to clarify,
"Being a lifelong cyclist, I can say I have never in my life felt I should be able to put my feet down on the ground while seated."
You would, if every time you dismounted the bike, you received a nutcracker from the high top bar. I have over 60,000+ miles on my trail 90 Honda, 99% of it off road, so it is just natural for me to plant/touch my feet on the ground, while seated.
I am after safety/comfort first.
"This is why the 'standover' frame specification is so important as if the top tube is too high you give yourself a nutcracker every time you stop the bike. Standover is the #1 thing you have to measure and get right when sizing yourself for a bike frame. Nothing else matters as much."
I agree 1000% with the stand over height being the #1 thing you have to measure and get right, and this is the reason for my post.
I carefully checked all the spec's on this bike before I bought it,
per Bikonit posted information, they stated that the stand over height was 29" in their diagram.
https://bikonit.com/collections/electric-mountain-bikes/products/bikonit-warthog-md750-ebike = check geometry/sizing spec's.
I bought the bike because everything was what I wanted, for a good trail bike etc. It was shipped and then HELD UP in Reno for over 30 days, due too the second shippers screw up, "(can't deliver until we have a full truck load going to Lovelock.")
By the time I finally went and picked my bike up, it was well past (30 days) for the return time of 15 days, per Bikonit's information etc.
So I was stuck with it, then I found out the stand over height was measured at 34+" where I contact the top bar, (I measure approximately 34" leg inseam/10" thru the hips, front to back. )
I carefully measured these measurements from my OEM bike w/26x4.5 tire@ 25psi, stand over heights of 29" right at the Jct of the top bar/seat stem tube, + 2" = 30.5", (going up the top bar), +4" = 31.5", +6" = 33", +8" =34.5" and +10" = 35.5".
Since that time I have been doing "workarounds" to reduce the fracture zone,
such as changing physical seat heights dimensions, nose dimensions of the seat, seat angle etc, etc, etc.
I don't have the funds to get another bike, at this time, with the medical problems that keep jumping up.
I have just about got the "REQUIRED" stand over height correct, (changing to the "NO Nose seat, gave me 4+" of room to slide back against the seat stem, but doesn't have the seat comfort of the Cloud 9 seat), but I would like another inch or so for more safety, if you follow along, especially when I am OFF ROAD riding cattle/feral horse trails, in steep rough country.
This is the reason I asked about the change of wheel size, and needed some questions answered to make sure I am headed in the right direction.
I have asked on several forums and have received limited information/or valid help,
as of this date, every thing is being discussed EXCEPT the questions I asked.
I don't believe that my questions are that hard to answer,
and would take less than a couple of minutes time wise, to answer these simple questions, for a 24" Fat tire wheel with 4.0 to 4.5" wide tire @ 25psi:
1. What is the total overall distance, from the ground level to the top of the highest lug, on the front tire, with the tire/bike standing upright 90* to the ground? (tire diameter).
2. What is the diameter of the rim, edge to edge? (measured thru the axle center).
3. What is the distance from ground level to the bottom edge of the rim,
with the tire/bike standing 90* to the ground?
I have had 1 answer that stated the total distance/diameter for a 24" Fat tire was 14",
and 3" side walls???
I don't think this information is VALID. 24" tire and 14" diameter??
Must have been a new metric system?? LOL
Thanks all,
Your thoughts and suggestions.........if you have a better plan for reducing this stand over height.
Tia,
Don
