A change of wheel size.......?

[AHicks]

Don, I think I mentioned earlier that the only 26" tires available that are narrower (shorter) than what you have now are going to require narrower rims. There's no getting around this. To use them you will need to get the wheels relaced using narrower rims. Your 100mm wide rims will need to be converted to something maybe closer to 32-40mm wide. That will allow the use of something like these-

26x2.4" (on road, with a little off road) -

Super Moto-X | DD, GreenGuard | Wired | Black-Reflex | Tube | 26x2.40 | Addix | Performance Line | 11101381.01

WIDE, COMFORTABLE, SAFE! Whether travelling on asphalt or trail, the beefy Super Moto-X offers the best riding characteristics and plenty of comfort.…

schwalbetires.com

26x2.35"-2.4" (off road, these will be noisy on pavement) -

E-MTB Tires | Schwalbe Tires North America – schwalbetires.com

Schwalbe E-MTB Tires: Best driving comfort ✓ Latest technology ✓ Discover E-MTB Tires from Schwalbe North America online now!

schwalbetires.com

Sorry, I don't have the sidewall height for the 26"x 2.4" Super Moto-X, but I can share that the 27" version of this same tire is 2 3/8" when mounted on 35mm wide rims. That height will vary by rim width. Wider rims (within reason) will lower that dimension. These Super Moto-X are the tires I'm running on everything but one bike, (originally an Ultra powered fatty) and that bike has the 27"x 2.8" version of this tire. Unfortunately it's 1100 miles from here.

 

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Al
Those tires are what I am looking for, I just hope I'll get some more replies for the different tire choices some what along these lines with the shorter sidewall heights.

I gave up on the 24" rims, very little choices there.

The next best option is the 26" size and find/build a narrower set of rims etc.
I have found some replacement rims in the narrower widths needed, just waiting for a reply back to see if the axle/gear cluster etc will interchange with the OEM stuff.
I want to be able to undue the rear tire, slip off the chain and put on the narrower set of tires/rims, check and tighten everything down, and go riding etc.

As for the stand over height, Something has changed, as I have never had this problem before, it was close but no pain, and all of a sudden I have to be extremely careful.
The only item changed has been the addition of a front carrying basket, and I cannot see for the life of me see HOW that can change the stand over height.
I have moved my small equipment pack to the front basket and now the leg swing over height is easier than before, than having the pack on the back rack.

I am carefully checking every thing to find out WHY.
There is a reason, I just have not found it, so far.

Thoughts or suggestions............
Thanks,
Don

 

[AHicks]

Thanks Al
Those tires are what I am looking for, I just hope I'll get some more replies for the different tire choices some what along these lines with the shorter sidewall heights.

I gave up on the 24" rims, very little choices there.

The next best option is the 26" size and find/build a narrower set of rims etc.
I have found some replacement rims in the narrower widths needed, just waiting for a reply back to see if the axle/gear cluster etc will interchange with the OEM stuff.
I want to be able to undue the rear tire, slip off the chain and put on the narrower set of tires/rims, check and tighten everything down, and go riding etc.

As for the stand over height, Something has changed, as I have never had this problem before, it was close but no pain, and all of a sudden I have to be extremely careful.
The only item changed has been the addition of a front carrying basket, and I cannot see for the life of me see HOW that can change the stand over height.
I have moved my small equipment pack to the front basket and now the leg swing over height is easier than before, than having the pack on the back rack.

I am carefully checking every thing to find out WHY.
There is a reason, I just have not found it, so far.

Thoughts or suggestions............
Thanks,
Don

I have to be pretty careful over uneven ground. If the bikes tires are on high spots, or I stop where my foot enters a low spot, things may get a little tense.....

 

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Al
I would quote that as being a "little tense" to "OUCH"..............and sucking wind.......
when possible. LOL
Don

 

[AHicks]

I honestly don't know how shorter guys ride these things...

 

[Nvreloader]

Al
They got to be like "Daddy Long Legs", all legs...........LOL.

"Eureka"
I found the secret, and I can't believe that this is the reason for high centering on my Wart Hog. I came back from the Dr's appt and decide to take a little trip into the local canyon right behind the house, it's pretty rough and rocky, a local thunder shower cooled it off to around 70 Degree, as compared to the 100 degrees it has been.
So I dressed in my usual riding gear, HD Military camo pants, light/thin long sleeve shirt and and put on my riding usual boots.

Rolled out the WH and turned on the GPS, climbed into my Camelbak water bag and swung my leg over the rear rack and very gently settled into the starting position,
WHAT TTH is going on, I CAN'T feel the cross bar?
I got off and recheck to make sure the tires were inflated etc, etc and could not find anything out of order..........? Climb back on and NO pressure from the cross bar, I climbed off and set down on the front step, completely baffled about the results.

I am sitting there mumbling to my self and the better half comes out to find why I haven't left yet, I explain everything to her and she said, Your not wearing you shoes, you got your boots on................DING>>>>>>DING>>>>> the light bulb goes on.

She had bought me a pair of those SKRETCHERS type of tennis shoes, VERY THIN soles etc, very comfortable, when I had the problems with the cross bar I was wearing these shoes, my boots add about 1/2-3/4" in stand over height, when compared to the shoes. Something as simple as foot wear caused the headaches.
I double checked and sure enough the shoes are a NO GO and boots are a go.

Note to self ALWAYS WEAR YOUR RIDING BOOTS...................LOL
Tia,
Don

 

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OK Guys & Gals
I DO NOT KNOW what all this information means (see below info).
I am attempting to find a wheel set of 25mm to 50mm wide rims so I can change into a street type tires.

The below info is what is on my WH at this time,
I need to know which of these spec's I should look for when hunting down a complete wheel set?
What is the most important info/spec's to concentrate on, 203 mm Rotors w/6 bolt holes?, and how can you tell if the rear wheel gear cluster will fit the new wheel set etc.

26" wheel spec's
Front Hub:
15mm,= (Axle Dimeter??) 150mm Hub Spacing
Gear Shifter:
Sram X-5 9 Speed Trigger Shifter Right Hand
Rear Sprocket & Derailleur:
DNP 13T-34T = (Rear gear cluster??) Sram X-5 = (I don't have a clue??)
Rear Hub:
197 mm Hub Spacing Bearing, Quick Release.
Brake System:
Tektro HD-E725 4 Piston Hydraulic 203 mm Rotor.
Tire:
Kenda Juggernaut 26*4.5''
Rim:
Aluminum Alloy, Double Wall, 100mm Width, 36 hole/spokes

Your thoughts and suggestions,
Thank you for your time and trouble,
Don

 

[Nvreloader]

Why, Yes I am, Western NV.

 

[AHicks]

I'm betting you're after a 135mm front, and a 190mm rear.
6 hole brake disk compatible
HD rims preferred (these will have grommets installed in each spoke hole) but maybe not really necessary.....
QR (quick release) axle compatible

The rims you have now are 100mm wide. I wouldn't want a second set of those. I think you're after something in the range of 32-40mm wide on these new ones.

Here's a chart that shows proper tire width to rim width that might be worth having a look at:

Tire & Rim Fit Chart

WHAT IS IT? The WTB Tire & Rim Compatibility Chart is used to determine what tire and rim width combinations provide optimal performance and compatibility. By matching your tire section width to your rim width you can determine optimal, compatible, or not optimal fitting options to ensure the...

www.wtb.com

If you find something interesting, holler with a link. I'd be happy to give it a quick look. -Al

 

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Guys
Al, that chart helps a bunch, so far in hunting around I have found this wheel set,

Alex Blizzerk 70 Black 26" FAT Bike Tubeless Wheelset TA Front15x150& Rear12x197 | eBay

Blizzerk 70. Blizzerk 70 rim is ready to accept your tubeless ready tape, valves and tires (works with tubes too)! Alex Blizzerk 70 Rims TRS Tubeless Ready System. 26" FAT BIKE. Fat Bike Front & Rear.

www.ebay.com

I don't know if the Shimano and SRAM XD are interchangeable,
so far this 63.5mm inner width is the smallest I have found,
and these rims have that Presto air valve instead of the standard
Schrader Valve, which I like.

Are the Presto valves smaller or larger in diameter, than Schrader valves?

Thanks, Back to the hunt......
Don

 

[Surly]

I've just finished building the wheels you need for one of my rides.

WTB KOM Tough i45 rims 29inch
Hope Pro 4 Fatsno 150mm front hub
Hope Pro 4 Fatsno 197mm rear hub
Sapim spokes
Brass nipples

However, i think you would find a dropper post more beneficial, ditch the shitty x5, to an XD drivetrain (hub body change needed), this also means more $

 

[AHicks]

As far as the wheel set in the Ebay add, I see at least 2 issues. Too wide (70mm), and only 32 spokes.

As far as the dropper seat post, I guess you can't have you cake and eat it too, at least as far as I've seen. Don and I are both older, and we're riding hard tails with suspension seat posts. To go with a dropper we'd have to give up that suspension. Other than that, the dropper would be a great plan!

 

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Al
I am looking for a narrower set of rims, and I was wondering about the 32 spokes?
36 spokes is better?

I am finding lots of wheel sets, but most of them have the 1/2" threaded axle and won't work with this newer system

I added a suspension seat post along with the Cloud 9 saddle, makes for a very nice combination.
I have to really watch the seat post length, as the seat post intrudes into the area where all the bikes wires are stuffed into this small space etc. I found a couple of cut Main cables from when I lower my seat post down, I got concerned and cut 2" off the seat post to give me some breathing room, no problems so far.

Back to hunting down what I need.
Thanks,
Don

 

[AHicks]

Thanks Al
I am looking for a narrower set of rims, and I was wondering about the 32 spokes?
36 spokes is better?

I am finding lots of wheel sets, but most of them have the 1/2" threaded axle and won't work with this newer system

I added a suspension seat post along with the Cloud 9 saddle, makes for a very nice combination.
I have to really watch the seat post length, as the seat post intrudes into the area where all the bikes wires are stuffed into this small space etc. I found a couple of cut Main cables from when I lower my seat post down, I got concerned and cut 2" off the seat post to give me some breathing room, no problems so far.

Back to hunting down what I need.
Thanks,
Don

Don, consider that a lot of what you are seeing is intended for use with the lighter non powered (analog) bicycles. Add the weight we're talking about, and the amount of power on tap, and I would go 36 spoke only, if for no other reason than it would allow me to sleep better.

 

[Nvreloader]

Question?
What about 27.5" rims/tires in the 2" to 3" range, would this decrease the sidewall height? shorter than the 2.75" sidewall height I have now? I have 5-1/2" of clearance to the fender now.
Thanks all.

 

[AHicks]

I don't have a number on exactly how much shorter, but yes, I went with the 27.5 rims to lower the bike a bit. I went with 27.5 x 2.8" Schwalbe Super Moto X tires on 35mm wide rims. The bike has to be at least an inch lower than when equipped with the 26x4.0 tires. The Schwalbe Moto's in the 27.5 x 2.4" size may be a little lower yet.....

 

[Nvreloader]

I was just informed that I can use a front 24" fat tire/rim on my Wart Hog??
and still use the 26" OEM tires on the rear, Is this information correct??

If this information is correct,
Can any member provide the wall height (from ground level to the edge of the rim) and or the tire diameter (measured thru the axle line to the top of the tire, on a 24" x 4.0"+ wide fat tire).

I have a stand over height problem that NEEDS addressing now.
The OEM stand over height is listed at 29",
this 29" height is right at the very bottom of the sloped top bar,
right next to the seat stem.

Where I normally stand, both feet flat on the level ground,
my back is against the seat nose, the stand over height is measured at 36",
if I am in rough uneven ground that is deeper than the level ground,
"Huston, I have a OUCH problem"! .............

The seat height is 41.5" and cannot be lowered any more.
When I set on the seat, I am on tippy toes, to touch the ground.

Any information relating to the 24" fat tire wheel diameters or sidewall heights,
would be greatly appreciated............
Your thoughts and suggestion,
Thank you,
Don

 

[AHicks]

No idea what it would look like, but I don't know why it wouldn't work if you're able to source the parts. 24" 80-100mm wide rim and 24x4.00 tire might take a little searching!

Elevator shoes?

 

[Nvreloader]

Thanks Al
I got my tall HD boots on now, and still come up a little short.........LOL
The person I got the info from called it a mullet?? I think that's what he called it.
I know that Mullet is a type of fish, caught lots of them in K Falls, OR in upper Klamath lake.

Tia,
Don

 

[Nvreloader]

I just learned that a 26" rim is only 22" in diameter, not 26" diameter, so all my calculations are off,
so I'll have to correct my info etc. I'll do some careful measurements in the AM.

Todays Updated info:
Here is the accurate information on my Wart Hog MD 750 OEM bike at this time,
All measurement are within .125/1/8",
26" Rim size = 22.50", rim width is 4.00", rim sidewall height is .750",
tire sidewalls (from ground level to rim edge) is 3.375" for these Kendra 4x4.5" Knobby tires, filled to 25psi, total tire height is 29.50" in diameter.
There is a Cloud 9 seat mounted to NCX adjustable seat stem, from ground to top of the seat level is 41", (It cannot go any lower), my stand over height is 34/5" where I make contact at/with the sloped down bar, with my back up against the seat nose, standing flat footed on the level ground.
There is 11" of ground clearance from the bottom of the motor,
9-1/8" ground clearance to the bottom of the drive sprocket teeth
and 5-1/2" ground clearance for the pedal.

Tia,
Don