A change of wheel size.......?

Nvreloader

Well-Known Member
Region
USA
Guys
I am heading down this path for a little modding on my MD 750 MD Wart Hog,
I want to add a complete set of front & back 24" Fat tire wheels with a semi Hiway road type tires,
if I can find them.

I believe that I have to match these spec's of the 26" Fat tire wheels that are OEM stock now,
in the 24" wheel set.
I am checking all the Fat tire hunting bikes to see if there is a 24" size, that will work.

26" wheel spec's
Front Hub:
15mm, 150mm Hub Spacing
Gear Shifter:
Sram X-5 9 Speed Trigger Shifter Right Hand
Rear Sprocket & Derailleur:
DNP 13T-34T / Sram X-5
Rear Hub:
197 mm Hub Spacing Bearing, Quick Release.
Brake System:
Tektro HD-E725 4 Piston Hydraulic 203 mm Rotor.
Tire:
Kenda Juggernaut 26*4.5''
Rim:
Aluminum Alloy, Double Wall, 100mm Width, 36 hole/spokes

Your thoughts and suggestions.................... On how you would do this.
Tia,
Don
 
I have Schwalbe and maxxis off road tires and they work fine on pavement .
They "work" fine (roll), but aren't they a little noisey on pavement, at say, speeds over 10-12mph?
 
Guys
I am heading down this path for a little modding on my MD 750 MD Wart Hog,
I want to add a complete set of front & back 24" Fat tire wheels with a semi Hiway road type tires,
if I can find them.

I believe that I have to match these spec's of the 26" Fat tire wheels that are OEM stock now,
in the 24" wheel set.
I am checking all the Fat tire hunting bikes to see if there is a 24" size, that will work.

26" wheel spec's
Front Hub:
15mm, 150mm Hub Spacing
Gear Shifter:
Sram X-5 9 Speed Trigger Shifter Right Hand
Rear Sprocket & Derailleur:
DNP 13T-34T / Sram X-5
Rear Hub:
197 mm Hub Spacing Bearing, Quick Release.
Brake System:
Tektro HD-E725 4 Piston Hydraulic 203 mm Rotor.
Tire:
Kenda Juggernaut 26*4.5''
Rim:
Aluminum Alloy, Double Wall, 100mm Width, 36 hole/spokes

Your thoughts and suggestions.................... On how you would do this.
Tia,
Don
Don, I did something similar with my Rize RX Pro fatty, but I went from 26" fat style to 27.5". Did all the work myself, and it was not cheap.....

I tried finding pre-built stuff that would work for months, with no luck. 36h fatty rear hubs the right width seem to be made of unobtainium. My final solution was to track down some 36h rims that were the width I wanted, and laced those up to my existing hubs with a new set of spokes. Worked great.

Just a guess, but are you doing this to lower the bike?
 
Don, I did something similar with my Rize RX Pro fatty, but I went from 26" fat style to 27.5". Did all the work myself, and it was not cheap.....

I tried finding pre-built stuff that would work for months, with no luck. 36h fatty rear hubs the right width seem to be made of unobtainium. My final solution was to track down some 36h rims that were the width I wanted, and laced those up to my existing hubs with a new set of spokes. Worked great.

Just a guess, but are you doing this to lower the bike?

Hi Al
Yes, that is one reason and I am hoping to save these tires for off road use I like riding in.
I want either 24" or 26" Hiway type tires (complete wheel/gear set ups),
so I can change in just a few minutes for what ever riding I want to do.
It's getting almost TOO hot to ride the hills right now, temps 80* - 90+,
and only going higher it seems.

Are normal Hiway tread side walls height the same as the Knobbie type tires side walls?

I think I'll have to reduces the rim width for the Hiway treads, as the widest I have found so far is 2.5" and I don't think they will fit the 100mm rims for the standard 4.5 tires that are on the bike now.

Tia,
Don
 
Between the smaller wheel diameter and the shorter sidewalls (!) you are going to have a bottom bracket that is awfully close to the ground. Same goes for your crankarms. They are going to be a lot closer to striking things. You won't need to hit a rock. Just turning the bike at speed on a street intersection will do it. You'll realize real fast how much you lean over in a turn. You'll want to look into 150-155mm unicycle cranks. 160mm bmx cranks perhaps but figuring out what works will take trial and error.

You will also need to cut down your kickstand.
 
Hi Al
Yes, that is one reason and I am hoping to save these tires for off road use I like riding in.
I want either 24" or 26" Hiway type tires (complete wheel/gear set ups),
so I can change in just a few minutes for what ever riding I want to do.
It's getting almost TOO hot to ride the hills right now, temps 80* - 90+,
and only going higher it seems.

Are normal Hiway tread side walls height the same as the Knobbie type tires side walls?

I think I'll have to reduces the rim width for the Hiway treads, as the widest I have found so far is 2.5" and I don't think they will fit the 100mm rims for the standard 4.5 tires that are on the bike now.

Tia,
Don
First, best of luck finding complete wheel assemblies so you can just do a quick swap. Good idea that works fine on paper, but after months, as mentioned already, I got tired of looking and swapped out the rims and spokes.

As far as the sidewall height highway vs. knobby being the same, from a practical standpoint (something you'll be able to notice), I think the answer would be yes.

I put some 3" street tires on my 26" 80mm fatty rims and the tire tread was about the same width as the rim. Looked OK, but with 100mm rims, I would have my doubts. 100mm width is going to be an issue for you would be my bet.

@mRobertson's point of loosing pedal clearance is legitimate, but these fatty's are so tall originally, I'm not sure how big a deal that would be going with a 24" fatty design. I can say that my new 27.5x2.8" Schwalbe Super Moto-X setup is an inch (or maybe just a hair more) lower and pedal clearance for my purposes (90%+ on road) has not been an issue at all. With a 24" setup, you may have an issue, especially off road (tree stumps on the side of a single track come to mind). Something to keep in mind for sure....

Shortening the kickstand shouldn't present much of a problem....
 
Thanks Guys
That's why I am researching this possible change, I figured that some of you good forum members would have some valid information etc.

Right now with these 26" Knobbies = 31.5" tall to the top of the tire, @30psi,
I have 9+" of ground clearance to the bottom of the chain ring and 6" ground clearance to the bottom of the pedals, and the kick stand is no problem for clearance, as it is adjustable for length etc.

The top of the seat height is 42" tall from the ground, and I am having some problems swinging my leg over the seat to get on, and I should also note,
that I have a small pack on the back rack that sets approx 2" lower when strapped down tight. I cannot lower the seat any lower, as there is no adjustment room left.

Here is a photo to see what I am talking about.
https://ibb.co/B6H2wGk
I am also looking for a front basket, when I can find a good HD one,
so I can remove the pack and place it in the front basket, which will help a lot.
I just may have to live with this "Tall Dude" and be very careful not to fracture the family jewels............LoL.

Tia,
Don
 
I think a LOT of people don't know just how big these fatty's really are. I get the height issue for sure. I'm 6'1 and I have to pull the bike WAY over to get my leg over it. The stuff on your rack would make the issue even worse here. I can stop (carefully, on level ground only) while fully seated and JUST touch my tippy toes on each side. A quick dismount is where I'm in trouble. That's not going to happen without tipping the bike, and you aren't going to do that standing on your tippy toes. Thankfully I'm good on the stand over height, but just barely.....
 
I think a LOT of people don't know just how big these fatty's really are. I get the height issue for sure. I'm 6'1 and I have to pull the bike WAY over to get my leg over it. The stuff on your rack would make the issue even worse here. I can stop (carefully, on level ground only) while fully seated and JUST touch my tippy toes on each side. A quick dismount is where I'm in trouble. That's not going to happen without tipping the bike, and you aren't going to do that standing on your tippy toes. Thankfully I'm good on the stand over height, but just barely.....
Exactly why a gave up on standard frames. Step through or nothing. And some step-through frames aren't really easy step-through.
 
Tom
When I stated looking at EBikes in Oct 21, I looked at the step through frames but was afraid of possible frame flex etc, so I went with a solid frame even thou I have this bad right hip etc.
And around here it is a minimum 200+ drive for anything along these lines, to see/test ride.
Tia,
Don
 
Tom
When I stated looking at EBikes in Oct 21, I looked at the step through frames but was afraid of possible frame flex etc, so I went with a solid frame even thou I have this bad right hip etc.
And around here it is a minimum 200+ drive for anything along these lines, to see/test ride.
Tia,
Don
I’ve not experienced any frame flex. Not on my Marin frame scratch build nor my KHS Manhattan Smoothie build. Several step through Townie builds as well. But what would I know. I’m just a shoe tying expert. ;)
 
A friend of mine wanted to make a similar thing, he got help from the guys at the bike shop, who gave him a free consultation and measured his parameters for the wheels.
 
I think a LOT of people don't know just how big these fatty's really are. I get the height issue for sure. I'm 6'1 and I have to pull the bike WAY over to get my leg over it. The stuff on your rack would make the issue even worse here. I can stop (carefully, on level ground only) while fully seated and JUST touch my tippy toes on each side. A quick dismount is where I'm in trouble. That's not going to happen without tipping the bike, and you aren't going to do that standing on your tippy toes. Thankfully I'm good on the stand over height, but just barely.....
The same reason I went to step thru,I bought a 24"x 4.0 by mistake one time, it was still plenty huge,I am guessing the OP might lose an inch on the ride height and clearance.( whoops assumed you had 26x 4.0 my bad.)
 
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OP, Kyle Chittuck( area 13 bikes) used to list a 26'x3" street tire, maybe think about something along those lines, if the sizes mean anything should lower the works around 3/4" from a 4.5"x 26"
 
Thanks Guys
I have found NO 24" Fat Tire wheels sets, but I did find these wheels sets, in 26 and 3" wide rims.

I know nothing about the gears etc, all I know is my OEM wheels are these spec's,
26" wheel spec's
Front Hub:
15mm, 150mm Hub Spacing
Gear Shifter:
Sram X-5 9 Speed Trigger Shifter Right Hand
Rear Sprocket & Derailleur:
DNP 13T-34T / Sram X-5
Rear Hub:
197 mm Hub Spacing Bearing, Quick Release.
Brake System:
Tektro HD-E725 4 Piston Hydraulic 203 mm Rotor.

What I am attempting to do is be able to remove the chain,
swap out the rear wheel (complete with everything needed) and bolt it up.

So I need some help figuring all these spec's out and what will inter change with the Wart Hog spec's etc.

Tia,
Don
 
Thanks Guys
I have found NO 24" Fat Tire wheels sets, but I did find these wheels sets, in 26 and 3" wide rims.

I know nothing about the gears etc, all I know is my OEM wheels are these spec's,
26" wheel spec's
Front Hub:
15mm, 150mm Hub Spacing
Gear Shifter:
Sram X-5 9 Speed Trigger Shifter Right Hand
Rear Sprocket & Derailleur:
DNP 13T-34T / Sram X-5
Rear Hub:
197 mm Hub Spacing Bearing, Quick Release.
Brake System:
Tektro HD-E725 4 Piston Hydraulic 203 mm Rotor.

What I am attempting to do is be able to remove the chain,
swap out the rear wheel (complete with everything needed) and bolt it up.

So I need some help figuring all these spec's out and what will inter change with the Wart Hog spec's etc.

Tia,
Don
Don, I'm at a loss regarding why you would want a second set of 26" fatty rims. That's what's on there now?

That aside, the rear one looks like it might work. The front doesn't appear to be a quick release, which I think is what you're after....
 
Thanks Al
"Don, I'm at a loss regarding why you would want a second set of 26" fatty rims. That's what's on there now?"
I am not really wanting a 26" wheels sets, but so far this is the only option I have came up with to get a lower stand over height, somehow.............since I can't find a 24" wheel set to fit the WH.

From the information I got from the Biketrix site, by going to a 26" x 2-3 wide tire/rim, I would lose approximately 3/4" to 1" in side wall height, (depending on which tire size/brand I went too).
I have 100mm wide rims with the 4.5 x 26" tires with a side wall height of 3-1/2" now.
This would deduce the "fracture factor" that is right at that point now.
And I could use these Hiway type tires for riding around the valleys etc.

I also found out a site to get shorter crank arms if I needed them,

Still researching.

Tia,
Don
 
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Thanks Al
From the information I got from the Biketrix site, by going to a 26" x 2-3 wide tire/rim, I would lose approximately 3/4" to 1" in side wall height, (depending on which tire size/brand I went too).
I have 100mm wide rims with the 4.5 x 26" tires with a side wall height of 3-1/2" now.
This would deduce the "fracture factor" that is right at that point now.
And I could use these Hiway type tires for riding around the valleys etc.

I also found out a site to get shorter crank arms if I needed them,

I have to get a lower stand over height, somehow.............still researching.

Tia,
Don
2-3" wide tires typically use WAY WAY narrower rims. More in the vicinity of 34-42mm tops. 3" is 76mm. You could get them mounted probably, but they would ride like a roller skate.

I would aim at 2.4"-2.8" range for tire width, mounted on 34-40mm wide rims. You often see them referred to as "plus" sizes.
 
Well, after spending several days on the www/Google, I have failed to find the information I am looking for, so I'll ask the membership for some help.

I am looking for a 26" diameter tire than has a shorter sidewall than the present tires I am running now. These tires are 4.5 x 26" and are 31.5" in diameter and have 2.750" of SIDEWALL height.
(This measurement is from the ground level to the edge of the tire rim).
I am looking for a semi Knobby type to a street type of tread, Heavy duty tread that will be mainly used on pavement and dirt hard packed roads etc.

I need the lowest SIDEWALL height possible, shorter than the 2.750" height,
I have now.
If you run any 26" tires, can you please measure the sidewall height, and provide this info to me, along with Brand name and size of tire ie; 26 x 2.5" wide with a sidewall height of x,xx" etc.
I would greatly appreciate the help.

The stand over height of my WH has changed by 1/2' to 3/4" taller than before,
and is causing pain when mounting or dismount it. I am at a lost as to why this is happening..............? I have NOT changed any of the dimensions in any way.

Your thoughts and suggestions......
TIA,
Don
 
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