Your original Prodeckotech pack is LiFePO4 which is a nominal 3.2V per cell where as regular LIpO in a can or pouch is a nominal 3.7V. Hence the S number is quite important when looking at the final voltage. You cannot mix chargers between batteries of different voltage.
So you have two ebikes, one is 36V and the one in trouble is an odd ball LIFEPO4 16S pack. too bad they are not the same nominal voltage as the easiest test is just to swap a good battery into the Outlaw and see if runs below 52V,
This is the bike?. EBR sure didn't like it. Tail heavy. No brake cutoffs. Court almost crashed. I also see that it's a big DD motor, so throttle is going to pull a lot of current.
Price: $.00 | Model Year: 2014 | High speed, off-road only electric bike that's not legal to ride in most states without modification and insurance
electricbikereview.com
Here's the main issue. The controller is set up for as 52V battery, so you have to get another 52V battery or a 52V rebuild. The low voltage cutoff inside the controller should be around 45V for a 52V pack, as opposed to the 42V cutoff for a 48V pack.
Meanwhile, the battery you found on ebay is a fake. You're not getting 20AH for a hundred bucks. I can see the lie in their specs. They say it's a 52 cell battery, which would mean a 13x4 cell array. The AH rating comes from adding up the individual AH number of the cells in a parallel group. In this case, 4 cells. Divide 20AH by 4 and you need 5AH cells. Well, they don't make cells that powerful yet. The most powerful are like 3.6AH. It's more likely they are using 2AH cells, so this is a 8AH pack, if you're lucky.
If you were to buy it and charge it to its full charge of 54. 6V, I suspect it will sag to 48V the first time you use the throttle, If the Prodeckotech still runs, then you
