It's the same system in the Electra bikes with integrated downtube battery. Also the same in the newer Domane+ AL.Has anyone ridden the Electra bikes with Hyena drive? I wonder if they are better or the same?
It's the same system in the Electra bikes with integrated downtube battery. Also the same in the newer Domane+ AL.Has anyone ridden the Electra bikes with Hyena drive? I wonder if they are better or the same?
Thanks, yeah I saw that. Let's hope.They’re just releasing the new 1.2 motor, you might want to hang out for a bit and see how that shakes out within the various SL models.
I have a Vado SL 4.0 and my wife has a Trek Fx+, which we purchased after giving up waiting for another Vado in Australia mid 2022. If it was up to me, I would have returned the Fx+ as the drive is nothing like the Vado, despite it having a torque sensor. The main problem is that the control provided by the torque sensor seems to be simply ON/OFF, rather than the smooth proportional motor control of the Vado. If you are providing some torque to the pedals, then you get full motor assist with the Fx+. My wife found this quite unnerving at first, especially when manoeuvring at low speed through obstacles or when crossing a busy road, as the motor assist was too strong. The problem was reduced to some extent by lowering the Level 1 assist to 5% which was done by the local Trek dealer (and now can be done through the Hyena Rider Assist app).
Despite this issue, my wife loves the bike because it is light enough that she can ride without motor assist most of the time, saving the motor for when it is really needed. I still love my Vado as I like a little bit of motor assist all the time. I have also reduced the Level 1 assist on the Vado, to about half the default, to make me work a bit more but the higher levels are there when needed.
Bear in mind a lot of cheaper e-bikes don't have a torque sensor, just a cadence sensor, so motor assist is applied whenever the pedals are turning. So, you can "cheat" and get motor assist just by turning the pedals over without applying any effort. Bikes like the Vado give very smooth motor assist because the torque sensor measures your effort and applies motor assist in proportion to your effort. That is why I was disappointed with the Fx+ as it should be capable of similar smoothness to the Vado but the firmware seems to be only interpreting the torque sensor output as either on or off. According to the Hyena web site, the torque sensor itself generates an analog signal proportional to torque, but the firmware doesn't make full use of the data available. I raised this issue with Trek customer service and they never responded.Ho Richard!
I really appreciate the perspective.
Of course, as I start looking at lightweight pedelic options in this $2000-$3500 price range, I keep finding more and more competitors! Everything from Orbea to Gazelle to Cannondale! Plus plenty of online only competitors even cheaper! Hard to know what to consider with some many options and few head to head comparisons.
Before we took the plunge on e-bikes, my wife and I rented a pair from a Pedego store while vacationing in Tucson. That was my issue exactly, as I couldn't figure out when to expect a sudden non-proportional boost from the hub motor. The bikes also had throttles, which were kind of fun to use on the long bike path but made me feel like I was back on one of my motorcycles!The main problem is that the control provided by the torque sensor seems to be simply ON/OFF, rather than the smooth proportional motor control of the Vado. If you are providing some torque to the pedals, then you get full motor assist with the Fx+. My wife found this quite unnerving at first, especially when manoeuvring at low speed through obstacles or when crossing a busy road, as the motor assist was too strong.
We have a Verve+ as well, which my wife rode for a while before the Fx+. The Bosch motor is very smooth and quiet. I am actually riding the Verve now as my second e-bike, as the wider tires work well on gravel rail trails near Denmark - that is Denmark the small town on the south coast of Western Australia not Denmark the country in Europe. Even though the M frame on the verve is a bit small for me, I have fitted a dropper seat post which provides the correct seat height. One thing we discovered with the Verve is that the bottom bracket is higher than on most similar bikes which made it hard for me to reach the ground with the seat at the correct height, hence the dropper seat post. The dropper had 125 mm travel which was more than I needed, so I have just fitted a BMX-style 25.4 mm seat clamp on the moving portion of the dropper to reduce the travel to about half.Before we took the plunge on e-bikes, my wife and I rented a pair from a Pedego store while vacationing in Tucson. That was my issue exactly, as I couldn't figure out when to expect a sudden non-proportional boost from the hub motor. The bikes also had throttles, which were kind of fun to use on the long bike path but made me feel like I was back on one of my motorcycles!
We eventually ended up with my wife on a Trek Verve+ (Bosch mid-motor) and myself on a Vado 4.0 (now a Vado SL 5.0) and we couldn't be happier with our choices.
My wife and I test rode a new Dual Sport+ 2 and Vado SL today, and I was expecting the Trek to have a jerky, delayed kick start (like other rear hub bikes I have ridden), but honestly it was much smoother than I thought it would be. Frankly it felt lot like other torque sensed bikes I have ridden (they told me they had updated the firmware so maybe that helped some). Yes, the Vado was better and I think a much more sophisticated motor and system that felt like a really well designed, sporty citibike bike, but for our purposes the Trek was just a better fit. We do mostly rail trail, but also gravel, dirt and some light single track trails with elevation and sometimes with racks and panniers, and my wife likes an upright posture. I think I could get the Vado SL where I wanted it with 27.5 rims and new tires, a stem extension/riser handlebars, and some creative effort to install a good rear rack, but all in, the price difference would probably be $1000. The Trek out the door just fit our needs. Another recent update is that Trek app can be used to directly adjust motor settings of your bike. For $2400 seems like pretty decent deal.Short addition to my experience; via the app I updated the firmware of the controller and the sensor (I think). The 0,5 sec/revolution before the motor kicks in is still there, but the proces is definitely less aggressive. Equally the ‘braking sensation’ when you stop pedaling is a lot less.
Last weekend did a 95 Km tour with the booster attached. About half of the route fairly strong headwind, about a quarter was hilly. When arriving home I had two green lines left on the display.
Cheers Gerard
Richard, if you download the Hyena app it will tell you battery percentage and give you a much better idea of the remaining battery left.The battery is 250 Wh, which is smaller than many comparable bikes (400 Wh for the Verve+). The relatively small capacity obviously minimises the weight, cost and bulk of the battery.
My wife has ridden 35 km so far on her Fx+ and has used about 50% of the battery, although it is impossible to be more precise as the display only indicates 5 bars for battery life not the actual percentage. We recharged the battery after yesterday’s ride in anticipation of a longer ride, weather permitting (winter here).
Our local Trek dealer quoted AU$700 for the range extender, which is not bad considering it is the same 250 Wh capacity as the inbuilt battery. We doubt whether the range extender will be needed for our current riding activity, so we haven’t ordered one.
We swapped the tubes for ones with Presta valves and, in doing so, realised we need to add a long arm 5 mm Allen key (or similar) to our on-road tool kit as both wheels are secured by high-torqued hex head bolts.
The Trek is a good price but the only thing to check closely is when you say:My wife and I test rode a new Dual Sport+ 2 and Vado SL today, and I was expecting the Trek to have a jerky, delayed kick start (like other rear hub bikes I have ridden), but honestly it was much smoother than I thought it would be. Frankly it felt lot like other torque sensed bikes I have ridden (they told me they had updated the firmware so maybe that helped some). Yes, the Vado was better and I think a much more sophisticated motor and system that felt like a really well designed, sporty citibike bike, but for our purposes the Trek was just a better fit. We do mostly rail trail, but also gravel, dirt and some light single track trails with elevation and sometimes with racks and panniers, and my wife likes an upright posture. I think I could get the Vado SL where I wanted it with 27.5 rims and new tires, a stem extension/riser handlebars, and some creative effort to install a good rear rack, but all in, the price difference would probably be $1000. The Trek out the door just fit our needs. Another recent update is that Trek app can be used to directly adjust motor settings of your bike. For $2400 seems like pretty decent deal.
I do have a couple of questions for Trek Dual Sport+owners:
- should I limit normal charging to something below 100%
- any suggestions on good (and cheap) front mud guards
- dealer told me that it will drain the external battery first before the internal battery. Can anybody confirm if this behavior is true?
- the external battery appears to just be a 7ah 36 volt battery - $500 seems pretty steep for that. Anybody ever try a 3rd party battery? not sure I want to play with it while under warranty though...
- any obvious opportunities for weight savings on this bike (cranks, derailleurs, fork...)
Sorry to hear that your power delivery still has an all-or-nothing feel despite the claimed torque-sensing. Just chiming in to let you know that it doesn't have to be that way on a hub-drive, and my Surface 604 V Rook is a case in point. Very smooth, natural power delivery with no all-or-nothing feel.I am an Electronic Engineer and part of the reason for getting an e-bike was to explore the technology, so it is useful to be able to compare the different bikes, hub drive vs. mid drive, for instance, when riding together. I was reluctant to buy a rear hub drive bike as all the ones that I looked at did not have a torque sensor so the motor boost was pretty much on/off and not based on the rider’s effort. The Hyena drive does have a torque sensor in the bottom bracket so it looked like it would deliver a smooth and proportional boost.
FWIWTaking in the account the short distance of your commute, the FX+ 2 is certainly a good option!
He meant Vado SL felt like a normal, not heavy bike. Easier to pedal. Actually what happens with Vado SL past 25 km/h is your thighs feel heavier but pedalling is so easy I often overlook going past the speed limit! I only cannot pedal faster than 27 km/h.
Impossible!
Old thread, I know but I just got an FX+2 and wanted to mention to anyone thinking about getting one that it feels so light and the gearing is so good that on flat terrain I do 90-95% of my riding without any pedal assistance at all. The other 5-10% is mostly because PAS and passing other riders is often just so much fun. And I'm not a trained or hearty cyclist, I'm 75. My few negatives are that compared to my old bike which had fork and seat suspension, the ride can get pretty bumpy over potholes and road imperfections. As the review suggested I might some day drop in a suspension seat post. And if you get the stagger frame, it won't work with most bike trunk racks. That probably pertains to all stagger frames but this is my first and I found out the hard way.Taking in the account the short distance of your commute, the FX+ 2 is certainly a good option!
He meant Vado SL felt like a normal, not heavy bike. Easier to pedal. Actually what happens with Vado SL past 25 km/h is your thighs feel heavier but pedalling is so easy I often overlook going past the speed limit! I only cannot pedal faster than 27 km/h.
Impossible!
The Hyena App does give the ability to tweak the assist in each riding modeResurrecting an old thread here (and thanks for the discussion, guys!)
I already have a heavy powerful ebike (with torque sensor,) but am looking for a lighter alternative more for fitness. I've test ridden the FX+ 2 twice now at different shops, and after the first time I was curious about that 1/2 rotation delay in motor assist and that's how I found this discussion. Other than that oddity, I really like this bike.
On my second ride, I tested more thoroughly, and really only noticed this 1/2 rotation delay from a stop. Maybe when you're moving you don't notice 1/2 a rotation or maybe it's just a thing when not moving? Anyway, I asked the bike shop guy about it, and he wasn't aware of it but suggested it might be something set on purpose by Trek to keep the motor assist from surprising new riders. Also suggested it might be something that could be tweaked with the app. (Not sure I believe him.)
Anyway, for me I'm still undecided. I think I need to test ride the Vado SL 4.0 again. It's so smooth! Just wish it had a bit more pep on the hills.