I just wanted the leverage. I mostly deal with cassettes and not freewheels and I don't care if I slightly mar the seldom used socket, That sucker is longer than the edge of the rim. Another way is if you have a good vice (most vices are bad, like that '80's show) put the freewheel socket in it and drive the bus to the left. You get leverage on both sides of the rim.
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Well I got the new freewheel cluster on, the new chainring, and new chain. This is how it should be.
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Happy New Year 2026. I had no idea this thread would last for five years! I really though it might be for about five geeks & for maybe three weeks back in 2021.
I have my prop-tools. Whenever I give a Free five-minute initial consultation I have a digital caliper, a voltmeter, a notebook, and pen, along with a laptop. My closing ratio on free consultations is 100%, because I will treat the grandson like a man in front of the grandmother. And do actually listen. The technical is fine, but bikes are for humans. It is the human side that makes all the difference. There is no tool for that. I stole an 8mm hex from a Specialized Roll Cargo install kit. I love that thing for pedal crankarms.
 
On that white Public conversion with a TSDZ2b, I did a shifting tune. It first got a new cable with CLR gun oil in the housing. Then I removed the derailleur, cleaning and lubing it. And I applied the hanger adjustment gauge. Besides the items mentioned, ring, chain, and freewheel. Finally I checked the limits and cable tension. Now the shifting is great. There was some white dust corrosion on the cable. And the hanger was slightly bent and twisted.
 
Good find on the twisted derailleur hanger. Misalignment in the vertical plane is easy to see with the naked eye, but a twist in the horizontal plane usually can only be found with the DAG. A twist in the hanger can cause side friction on the jockey wheels, which causes downshifts to skip cogs and upshifts to hang, among other anomalies.
 
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