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stud finder.jpeg


When my neighbor sees me down on the ground working on a bike, he'll offer me his shop. Sometimes laying a bike on its side is the best way to see and reach, and the lawn won't scratch my bike or me. A pocket magnet used to be a good way to find a dropped fastener, but now they're often nonmagnetic stainless.

I bought this stud finder 7 years ago. I've used it to locate studs, electric cables, and nails, but I use it most frequently to find dropped screws. Who would want to work on a shop floor instead of an unmowed lawn?
 
I have a large-ish rubber mat on my garage floor. It’s bright AF orange. I like it because I can see better through the brake pads and rotors.

Grass is good. People should touch more grass. “KIDS! Go outside and touch some grass!”
 
spokewrench said:
I relied mostly on this Wera kit before I went to L keys. I love the L key color coding, to help me pull the one I need from the holder or in case I'm working with more than one size. I see Bondus is in Minnesota and John invented the ball end. Thanks for the tip, in case I find something not to like with AMTOVL.
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My Spin Doctor small torque wrench broke yesterday at the shop. I've had it for at least 15 years. Spin Doctor was the house brand tool line sold by Performance Bicycles. I guess when the frequency of use went up significantly, it couldn't take the heat. I also have the Topeak Nano Torqbox as a backup, but that's a "beam type" so I use it sparingly. I prefer a small 2-15Nm type wrench. I looked at the Topeak digital and the Wera click type, both were over $160 my cost. Overkill. So I ended up with the reliable, trusty Shimano Pro, $85.

The one thing that I'd keep an eye on with the AMTOVL is the plating.
 
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I've got that one currently for "on the road" use in my office bag. Works very nice. Easier than most 1-10 torque wrenches.

In the bag which goes on the bike when cycling around for fun I've got one of these with me

1754655501359.png


spring style torque wrench from 2-6Nm. usually this would be the correct spacing for on the road adjustments etc.
 
I have a similar Topeak mini-ratchet kit in the first photo on the bike, and the Nano Torqbox in the second photo as my backup in my shop bag. I need something that I can use all day 2x-3x/week, and I prefer a 1/4" drive with bits versus the Torqstik because I use it with extensions when necessary. I'm a big fan of Topeak tools, but that digital wrench was just too pricey for my needs.
 
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Ive added an extra long bitholder to the etorque, also i just use the adaptor with a T wrench and also have a few of the mini Ratchets
 
Slaphappygamer said:
I have a large-ish rubber mat on my garage floor. It’s bright AF orange. I like it because I can see better through the brake pads and rotors.

Grass is good. People should touch more grass. “KIDS! Go outside and touch some grass!”
Click to expand...
That’s briliant. I’ve already lost parts in the grass and dirt where I work on ebike outside. I need a mat like that.
 
I finally splurged on the Wera ratchet handle. I have the socket type, but with my fumbling hands, I am always changing the direction, or it is falling out of the fastener. I can use that or a t-handle for the last part of tightening or the first part of loosening if needed. I changed the bits out to have 2 mm to 5mm, then one slot and one Phillips. I have plenty of other bits if needed, but these are most and I can use this one-handed.

IMG_1304.jpg
IMG_1303.jpg
 
I wanted the wera socket/bit set, but I did not need the socket handle, and I wanted the ratcheting handle. Since I seldom use sockets, I figured I did not need to spend 100 or more on them, so I got this cheap set since it will fit the Wera handle too. Guess what one costs more?
IMG_1305.jpg
 
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fooferdoggie said:
I changed the bits out to have 2 mm to 5mm, then one slot and one Phillips. I have plenty of other bits if needed, but these are most and I can use this one-handed.
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Aagh, Phillips! As a technician in 1972 I discovered what we called Reed and Prince. It was a Frearson, invented in England in the 19th Century and produced by Reed and Prince of Worcester MA. The screws were common enough that I kept both kinds of drivers in my tool box. They didn’t cam out, and one size driver would fit them all. What’s more, the drivers and screw heads were visibly different from Phillips.

About the same time, I became aware of JIS, used on Japanese motorcycles. JIS and Reed and Prince drivers worked on Phillips screws, but Phillips drivers didn’t work on JIS or Reed and Prince. Then I became aware of Pozidriv, the English answer to Phillips. (Pozidriv? Those English are butchering the American language!)

Now when I encounter a crosshead screw, I may have to try different types and sizes of drivers to find one that feels right. Aagh!
 
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spokewrench said:
Aagh, Phillips! As a technician in 1972 I discovered what we called Reed and Prince. It was a Frearson, invented in England in the 19th Century and produced by Reed and Prince of Worcester MA. The screws were common enough that I kept both kinds of drivers in my tool box. They didn’t cam out, and one size driver would fit them all. What’s more, the drivers and screw heads were visibly different from Phillips.

About the same time, I became aware of JIS, used on Japanese motorcycles. JIS and Reed and Prince drivers worked on Phillips screws, but Phillips drivers didn’t work on JIS or Reed and Prince. Then I became aware of Posidrive, the English answer to Phillips.

Now when I encounter a crosshead screw, I may have to try different types and sizes of drivers to find one that feels right. Aagh!
Click to expand...
I doubt Phillips will ever die.
 
fooferdoggie said:
I wanted the wea socket/bit set, but I did not need the socket handle, and I wanted the wrenching handle. Since I seldom use sockets, I figured I did not need to spend 100 or more on them, so I got this cheap set since it will fit the Wera handle too. Guess what one costs more?
Click to expand...
If I needed a certain 1/4" socket, I might have to check several sets. If it's in a set, it can take time to find the right one. If a set turns over, sorting can take several minutes. So I bought a heavy, well labeled, magnetic holder. Sockets from various sets have filled most of the holes.

sockets.jpeg
 
fooferdoggie said:
I doubt Phillips will ever die.
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Some say the camming out was not intentional. I think it was. Ford wanted workers to use power tools, and overtorquing could ruin a hole in sheet metal or wood. I'm not sure if the standard drywall screw is Phillips. If it is, maybe it's because camming out can prevent damage.
 
fooferdoggie said:
I finally splurged on the Wera ratchet handle. I have the socket type, but with my fumbling hands, I am always changing the direction, or it is falling out of the fastener. I can use that or a t-handle for the last part of tightening or the first part of loosening if needed. I changed the bits out to have 2 mm to 5mm, then one slot and one Phillips. I have plenty of other bits if needed, but these are most and I can use this one-handed.

View attachment 198097View attachment 198098
Click to expand...
Very spiffy. And I love that you can store the bits in the handle.
 
spokewrench said:
Some say the camming out was not intentional. I think it was. Ford wanted workers to use power tools, and overtorquing could ruin a hole in sheet metal or wood. I'm not sure if the standard drywall screw is Phillips. If it is, maybe it's because camming out can prevent damage.
Click to expand...
Camming out with Philips when installing is one thing, but having it happen when trying to remove the fastener can leave you, pardon the expression, "screwed" :rolleyes:

I've had great luck with this Milwaukee impact driver. It's never failed to remove any type fastener with a stripped head.

1754839245915.png


 
6zfshdb said:
Camming out with Philips when installing is one thing, but having it happen when trying to remove the fastener can leave you, pardon the expression, "screwed" :rolleyes:

I've had great luck with this Milwaukee impact driver. It's never failed to remove any type fastener with a stripped head.
Click to expand...
impact.jpeg


Remember these? They didn't always work for me. I bought an electric impact driver as an easy way to remove a blade under a mower up on ramps. I don't use it.

My usual go-tos are a Craftsman #2 Phillips with an 8" shaft and an unlabeled Klein with a 7" shaft. I like to put a palm on the end of a screwdriver handle to maintain pressure and keep the shaft straight as I turn with the other hand, and it works better with a longer shaft. All Klein crosshead screwdrivers seem to be advertised as Phillips, but this one clearly isn't, and it works better with most screws. If I really need a good fit, I have more than one cheap bit set from Taiwan labeled either PH or PZ. Those are the two DIN/ISO starndards
 
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