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[stompandgo]

My favorite hand tools are made by Wera. They are very high quality and hold up well. I can't afford to own Wera for every hand tool I own, so I use them where I need them. Precision screwdrivers are a good example of where I won't compromise. The hex keys I use at work are made by Bondhus, a color keyed set. I have low vision, and I can't tell you how helpful it is to reach for a tool and know that brown is 6mm, blue is 5mm, red is 4mm, pink is 3mm, black is 2mm, etc. It saves me a lot of stress.

As for torquing, I also torque with hand wrenches, with two exceptions. If anything that I am working on is attached to carbon, I snug with a hand wrench and torque with a torque wrench. Same goes for any part of any material that has a torque spec printed on it. Snug then torque. For all else, I use either a hand wrench, socket wrench, or special tool (i.e. pedal wrench).

 

[stompandgo]

I have a set just like that made by AIM. If there are no takers, I'll take them.

The bottom wrench has a threaded bottom bracket lockring tool.

 

[spokewrench]

My favorite hand tools are made by Wera. They are very high quality and hold up well. I can't afford to own Wera for every hand tool I own, so I use them where I need them. Precision screwdrivers are a good example of where I won't compromise. The hex keys I use at work are made by Bondhus, a color keyed set. I have low vision, and I can't tell you how helpful it is to reach for a tool and know that brown is 6mm, blue is 5mm, red is 4mm, pink is 3mm, black is 2mm, etc. It saves me a lot of stress.

I relied mostly on this Wera kit before I went to L keys. I love the L key color coding, to help me pull the one I need from the holder or in case I'm working with more than one size. I see Bondus is in Minnesota and John invented the ball end. Thanks for the tip, in case I find something not to like with AMTOVL.

 

[spokewrench]

When my neighbor sees me down on the ground working on a bike, he'll offer me his shop. Sometimes laying a bike on its side is the best way to see and reach, and the lawn won't scratch my bike or me. A pocket magnet used to be a good way to find a dropped fastener, but now they're often nonmagnetic stainless.

I bought this stud finder 7 years ago. I've used it to locate studs, electric cables, and nails, but I use it most frequently to find dropped screws. Who would want to work on a shop floor instead of an unmowed lawn?

 

[Gionnirocket]

I can't use Stud finders.... they alert as soon as I pick it up.

 

[Slaphappygamer]

I have a large-ish rubber mat on my garage floor. It’s bright AF orange. I like it because I can see better through the brake pads and rotors.

Grass is good. People should touch more grass. “KIDS! Go outside and touch some grass!”

 

[stompandgo]

Grass is good. People should touch more grass. “KIDS! Go outside and touch some grass!”

 

[stompandgo]

I relied mostly on this Wera kit before I went to L keys. I love the L key color coding, to help me pull the one I need from the holder or in case I'm working with more than one size. I see Bondus is in Minnesota and John invented the ball end. Thanks for the tip, in case I find something not to like with AMTOVL.

My Spin Doctor small torque wrench broke yesterday at the shop. I've had it for at least 15 years. Spin Doctor was the house brand tool line sold by Performance Bicycles. I guess when the frequency of use went up significantly, it couldn't take the heat. I also have the Topeak Nano Torqbox as a backup, but that's a "beam type" so I use it sparingly. I prefer a small 2-15Nm type wrench. I looked at the Topeak digital and the Wera click type, both were over $160 my cost. Overkill. So I ended up with the reliable, trusty Shimano Pro, $85.

The one thing that I'd keep an eye on with the AMTOVL is the plating.

 

[Base]

I've got that one currently for "on the road" use in my office bag. Works very nice. Easier than most 1-10 torque wrenches.

In the bag which goes on the bike when cycling around for fun I've got one of these with me

spring style torque wrench from 2-6Nm. usually this would be the correct spacing for on the road adjustments etc.

 

[stompandgo]

I have a similar Topeak mini-ratchet kit in the first photo on the bike, and the Nano Torqbox in the second photo as my backup in my shop bag. I need something that I can use all day 2x-3x/week, and I prefer a 1/4" drive with bits versus the Torqstik because I use it with extensions when necessary. I'm a big fan of Topeak tools, but that digital wrench was just too pricey for my needs.

 

[Base]

Ive added an extra long bitholder to the etorque, also i just use the adaptor with a T wrench and also have a few of the mini Ratchets

 

[Chazmo]

I have a large-ish rubber mat on my garage floor. It’s bright AF orange. I like it because I can see better through the brake pads and rotors.

Grass is good. People should touch more grass. “KIDS! Go outside and touch some grass!”

That’s briliant. I’ve already lost parts in the grass and dirt where I work on ebike outside. I need a mat like that.

 

[Base]

That’s briliant. I’ve already lost parts in the grass and dirt where I work on ebike outside. I need a mat like that.

those are great

dunno if the link would work for the US https://www.amazon.nl/-/en/BIKETEK-Motorcycle-garage-orange-without/dp/B0141G5FM6

 

[fooferdoggie]

I finally splurged on the Wera ratchet handle. I have the socket type, but with my fumbling hands, I am always changing the direction, or it is falling out of the fastener. I can use that or a t-handle for the last part of tightening or the first part of loosening if needed. I changed the bits out to have 2 mm to 5mm, then one slot and one Phillips. I have plenty of other bits if needed, but these are most and I can use this one-handed.

 

[fooferdoggie]

I wanted the wera socket/bit set, but I did not need the socket handle, and I wanted the ratcheting handle. Since I seldom use sockets, I figured I did not need to spend 100 or more on them, so I got this cheap set since it will fit the Wera handle too. Guess what one costs more?

 

[spokewrench]

I changed the bits out to have 2 mm to 5mm, then one slot and one Phillips. I have plenty of other bits if needed, but these are most and I can use this one-handed.

Aagh, Phillips! As a technician in 1972 I discovered what we called Reed and Prince. It was a Frearson, invented in England in the 19th Century and produced by Reed and Prince of Worcester MA. The screws were common enough that I kept both kinds of drivers in my tool box. They didn’t cam out, and one size driver would fit them all. What’s more, the drivers and screw heads were visibly different from Phillips.

About the same time, I became aware of JIS, used on Japanese motorcycles. JIS and Reed and Prince drivers worked on Phillips screws, but Phillips drivers didn’t work on JIS or Reed and Prince. Then I became aware of Pozidriv, the English answer to Phillips. (Pozidriv? Those English are butchering the American language!)

Now when I encounter a crosshead screw, I may have to try different types and sizes of drivers to find one that feels right. Aagh!

 

[fooferdoggie]

Aagh, Phillips! As a technician in 1972 I discovered what we called Reed and Prince. It was a Frearson, invented in England in the 19th Century and produced by Reed and Prince of Worcester MA. The screws were common enough that I kept both kinds of drivers in my tool box. They didn’t cam out, and one size driver would fit them all. What’s more, the drivers and screw heads were visibly different from Phillips.

About the same time, I became aware of JIS, used on Japanese motorcycles. JIS and Reed and Prince drivers worked on Phillips screws, but Phillips drivers didn’t work on JIS or Reed and Prince. Then I became aware of Posidrive, the English answer to Phillips.

Now when I encounter a crosshead screw, I may have to try different types and sizes of drivers to find one that feels right. Aagh!

I doubt Phillips will ever die.

 

[spokewrench]

I wanted the wea socket/bit set, but I did not need the socket handle, and I wanted the wrenching handle. Since I seldom use sockets, I figured I did not need to spend 100 or more on them, so I got this cheap set since it will fit the Wera handle too. Guess what one costs more?

If I needed a certain 1/4" socket, I might have to check several sets. If it's in a set, it can take time to find the right one. If a set turns over, sorting can take several minutes. So I bought a heavy, well labeled, magnetic holder. Sockets from various sets have filled most of the holes.

 

[spokewrench]

I doubt Phillips will ever die.

Some say the camming out was not intentional. I think it was. Ford wanted workers to use power tools, and overtorquing could ruin a hole in sheet metal or wood. I'm not sure if the standard drywall screw is Phillips. If it is, maybe it's because camming out can prevent damage.

 

[Chazmo]

I finally splurged on the Wera ratchet handle. I have the socket type, but with my fumbling hands, I am always changing the direction, or it is falling out of the fastener. I can use that or a t-handle for the last part of tightening or the first part of loosening if needed. I changed the bits out to have 2 mm to 5mm, then one slot and one Phillips. I have plenty of other bits if needed, but these are most and I can use this one-handed.

View attachment 198097View attachment 198098

Very spiffy. And I love that you can store the bits in the handle.