A bike with a fully charged 10.5Ah/48V battery came in today. The display had been hooked up when it was at its max of 54.6 volts so it was reading as if it was a 52V not a 48V battery and cutting out early. I need to safely take down the charge to 48V to reset it. So, I purchased this USB fan. The blades are about 10cm across or 4in and it is highspeed. I will let it run overnight and do the reset in the morning. The fan ended up being $8.56 after tax. In my opinion batteries need a USB port. And if the charge goes all the way down and sits there for an extended period the BMS will go to sleep and you can't charge it. That is until you feed it a safe low voltage USB charge for a couple of hours. Then it will take a charge.

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Isn't the battery voltage a setting in the display?
The SOC of the battery shouldn't matter
And then battery should never be shipped fully charged in any case.
Lastly the BMS should never allow a discharge bellow a safe charging voltage.
 
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I need to safely take down the charge to 48V to reset it.
Without a USB port, a table lamp with an incandescent bulb would probably do the trick. You'd establish a good connection with the battery, then switch on the lamp. A 60-watt bulb would pull 0.5 amp at 120 volts and of course less at 48 volts, maybe .25 amp Incandescent bulbs are getting scarce.
 
Isn't the battery voltage a setting in the display?
Lastly, not on the TSDZ2. It automatically sets based on what is sees, 36, 48, 52V. This one got hooked on that it was connected to a 52V nominal battery. Usually they normalize in a week. Not this one. On the DM02 motor I can fine tune everything through the display. The display of battery bars is normally way off compared to the battery LCD. That can be easily reset for high and low so they both match.
 
Without a USB port, a table lamp with an incandescent bulb would probably do the trick. You'd establish a good connection with the battery, then switch on the lamp. A 60-watt bulb would pull 0.5 amp at 120 volts and of course less at 48 volts, maybe .25 amp Incandescent bulbs are getting scarce.
But then how to safely wake a sleeping beauty BMS? Or charge a device when you are in the boonies?

 
Lastly, not on the TSDZ2. It automatically sets based on what is sees, 36, 48, 52V. This one got hooked on that it was connected to a 52V nominal battery. Usually they normalize in a week. Not this one. On the DM02 motor I can fine tune everything through the display. The display of battery bars is normally way off compared to the battery LCD. That can be easily reset for high and low so they both match.
Considering how close 48v and 52v are and that they have overlapping voltages... That's a pretty dumb design.
Having it as a display settings makes a lot more sense.
 
Those older black and silver LCD TSdz2 displays work with 36, 48, and 52V systems. Normally it self-adjusts just fine. On this one he never runs it down and keeps topping up to 54.6. After several hours on the fan the battery is still showing full bars. Yes, fine programing is very significant. Throttle capable DM01s and DM02s do not allow for advanced settings, they do not want illegal wheelie bikes, but the factory has given me the all codes for this. And I can help on a per-case basis in English to dial stuff in for a cargo mom, gravel, or MTB'er.
 
Those older black and silver LCD TSdz2 displays work with 36, 48, and 52V systems. Normally it self-adjusts just fine.
Still a display setting would be flawless. Never interested in the TS' because of all the programming hacks needed.
After several hours on the fan the battery is still showing full bars.
You need a larger load for the battery to drain it down. Those USB fans are low current typically 2a/5v or 10 watts. Better to use a resistive load anyway like a light bulb.

Yes, fine programing is very significant. Throttle capable DM01s and DM02s do not allow for advanced settings, they do not want illegal wheelie bikes, but the factory has given me the all codes for this. And I can help on a per-case basis in English to dial stuff in for a cargo mom, gravel, or MTB'er.
Good to know... if/when all the bugs are worked out and reliability proven, I might consider another build.
Curious... could you set up a DM02 without a throttle. Program it. And then just change the display an add the throttle?
My preference is a natural feeling tuned down PAS.. but then a fully functional throttle. Meaning fully variable throttle and full power available when desired. Possible now?
 
My preference is a natural feeling tuned down PAS.. but then a fully functional throttle.
Set it up with a display that can take a throttle, test your PAS settings, then add the throttle, and make that one change in the display and it will send that change to the controller. Physically remove the throttle at anytime depending on local regulations, such as in a National Park. That fan did not make a dent in the charge. You are correct. But I am not in a rush because drivetrain parts arrive on Tuesday and I have a high output headlight that can take it down if needed. If it comes down to it I can give you the advanced menu codes.
 
If you want I can let you borrow this!

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For comparison, that's a typical 75watt A lamp next to it.

This one time at band camp... I ordered 15 / 'hundred watt /A lamps.
The supplier sent a 1500watt A lamp
 
But then how to safely wake a sleeping beauty BMS? Or charge a device when you are in the boonies?

Your USB fan won't do those things. I don't know much about BMS, but maybe a wall wart would wake one up. Amazon ships devices only to the address on my charge card, so why would I want to charge them when I was in the boonies? ;)

In the 70s, I had a friend who was a custodian. He loved long-life incandescent bulbs. They were designed for something like 135 volts. They were advertised for high-vibration environments, where the cooler filament would be less fragile. They were also good for hard-to-change locations and places where a generator might surge well above 120 volts. They were less efficient, requiring more watts for the same light. Considering both power and bulb costs, the standard bulb was usually more economical.

The Centennial bulb runs so cool that it provides little light for the power it consumes. Edison produced a bulb that would last 1200 hours, but the industry later reduced it to 750 for a 100 watt bulb. It meant more bulb sales, but it also helped the consumer because the hotter filament could produce the light you needed for less electricity.

Edison said the problem was not bulb life but switch life because the homeowner couldn't simply screw in a replacement switch. He predicted that the light bulb wouldn't really be a success until somebody invented a better wall switch. It was an immediate hit in commerce and industry because brighter, safer, cheaper artificial light meant they could operate longer hours in winter, but in 1900, after 20 years, only 3% of homes had electricity. The primary motive for these homeowners was probably appliances, not lights.

Compared to a store, a home lit smaller areas at lower intensity. Gas and oil lamps were adequate. Switching on a light would have been more convenient than lighting a lamp with a match, especially coming home to a dark house, when one needed to carry matches in a safe. But it would be terribly inconvenient if the switch didn't work.

Electricity came to this town in 1918. The farmer who built my house saw it as the solution to two problems: the uselessness of his wind-powered well pump on windless days, and the toil of doing launry in a hand-cranked washer. He paid the power company to bring lines to a concrete building he erected in 1920 beside his house to be his pump house and laundry. It still made more sense to light his house with oil lamps.

In fact, the problem had been solved. In 1919, a better switch had been patented. The house was wired in 1926. Inside the front door was a pair of push-button switches, to operate the porch light outside and the chandelier inside. After 99 years, those switches work flawlessly. Unlike the Centennial bulb, they don't waste electricity.

In 1920, 41 years after Edison's light bulb, only 1/3 of American homes had electricity. By 1930, 11 years after the switch was patented, 2/3s were wired and the remaining 1/3 were clamoring for service to be brought to their area.

.
 
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A bike with a fully charged 10.5Ah/48V battery came in today. The display had been hooked up when it was at its max of 54.6 volts so it was reading as if it was a 52V not a 48V battery and cutting out early.
And if the charge goes all the way down and sits there for an extended period the BMS will go to sleep.
But then how to safely wake a sleeping beauty BMS? Or charge a device when you are in the boonies?

I'm pretty sure that you can't use any display of any sort to get inside of a battery and change the settings of the BMS.
That would be Fricken DANGEROUS !!

That would allow a user to set a 36 Volt battery to 48V or 52V and you could and Will set it on fire.

The BMS is built into the battery pack And Is NON-ADJUSABLE.


For reference, I have a KT controller and display.
I have three 48V batteries, each with their BMS set to about 39V (I don't know the exact voltages offhand) but I have settings in my display to adjust the LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff).
I set it 40.5V so the controller will shut down before the battery's BMS shuts down.

That gives my 1.5V in reserve fuel to let me know to start pedaling and slow Way Down.

I ran out of juice about a year ago and the e-bike shut down.
I would simply push and hold the power button while coasting, and I could turn it back on.
I did that 3-4 times and had to use less Watts each time to reduce the voltage sag that would shut me down.

The last time I restarted the display, it was showing a 75% charge because it thought I was using a 36V battery.
The controller/display automatically switched to 36V.

All I had to do was charge my battery, and the display reset itself to 48V.
 
You need a larger load for the battery to drain it down.


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I ended up using four bulbs to drain my battery, but it still took a long time.

I got my cat to keep an eye on it. 😄

The bulbs were still hot enough to burn my fingers, even though they were really dim.

Rough service incandescent light bulbs are still available and work Great as heaters.

People use them to heat the small pump house for their wells in the winter to keep the pipes from freezing.
In the crawlspace under your house if you've got pipes there too.
 
I also use incandescent bulbs for a discharge rig:

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I screw in as many bulbs as needed. As an added bonus, I have used the rig to light my workshop during a power outage. I use a twist timer as a safeguard against over discharging. The BMS in my batteries shuts down at 15%, but I don't like to go below 20% if I can help it.

I also have these discharge resistors from Grin Tech

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I also use incandescent bulbs for a discharge rig:

I remember you posting those bulbs 💡 before.
I'm pretty sure they're LED bulbs at ~10 Watts, but I think they run on 48 volts?

I found them on Amazon, but they were kind of expensive.

I can still buy rough service incandescent bulbs 💡 at my local dollar store, so I'm using them

I also have these discharge resistors from Grin Tech

I remember that too, but I'm never in a rush to drain a battery.

And, charging and draining a battery slowly helps to prevent cell imbalance, and can even help correct an unbalanced battery.

I think @PedalUma 's USB fan is the best choice for trying to rebalance an over-discharged battery.
Charging the battery really slow (like ½ an Amp or so) can also help restore balance as well.
 
So far I've never had a need to discharge any batteries. Using my DIY charge adapter I've never accidentally charged more than I wanted to.
And then there's the option to go for a ride.

That's A Cool 😎 BULB 💡!!@

I WANT ONE. 😃
Yeah when it showed up on the job site I couldn't stop laughing. My boss wanted me to return it as it was a little pricey but I told him I have to keep it.
I had planned on making an exposed pendant fixture out of it with some stainless steel cable and then running it at the lowest point that the elements would glow.. but I never got around to it.
 
I remember you posting those bulbs 💡 before.
I'm pretty sure they're LED bulbs at ~10 Watts, but I think they run on 48 volts?

I found them on Amazon, but they were kind of expensive.

I can still buy rough service incandescent bulbs 💡 at my local dollar store, so I'm using them



I remember that too, but I'm never in a rush to drain a battery.

And, charging and draining a battery slowly helps to prevent cell imbalance, and can even help correct an unbalanced battery.

I think @PedalUma 's USB fan is the best choice for trying to rebalance an over-discharged battery.
Charging the battery really slow (like ½ an Amp or so) can also help restore balance as well.
Yeah, that's an old picture. The small bulbs are LED's but the larger ones are old 48V, 100W marine incandescent bulbs my father used on his boat. 58V doesn't seem to bother them. I doubt you can buy them anymore.

I have since modified the rig with more bulbs & sockets. The large ones are old 600W incandescents I used in the barn, which have since been replaced with LED's.

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It's crude but easily adjustable, and also provides emergency lighting. The load can be varied from .5A up to 8A depending on the number of bulbs used.
 
Feed stores sell large incandescent heat lamps for chicks and ducklings.

I just checked. The fan did almost nothing from 54.6V after almost three days! I put a light on it three hours ago and now it is down to 51 volts. I need it down to 48 for the reset.
 
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And, charging and draining a battery slowly helps to prevent cell imbalance, and can even help correct an unbalanced battery.

I think @PedalUma 's USB fan is the best choice for trying to rebalance an over-discharged battery.
Charging the battery really slow (like ½ an Amp or so) can also help restore balance as well.
If you knew the watts the USB fan used and assumed the voltage step-down (whatever it's called) is 100% efficient, I guess you could calculate battery amps. The advantage to @6zfshdb 's board is that he can measure the amps and use a combination of bulbs to get what he wants.

I don't see how a fan would waken an over-discharged battery. I don't know if any BMS's balance during discharge, but I believe they all balance at the top of charging, when some cells are fully charged. I believe sometimes rising battery voltage can shut off the BMS before balancing is complete. Radpower used to recommend taking a short ride and putting the battery back on the charger. I think letting an unbalanced battery sit a couple of hours will also turn the BMS back on.

I monitor with a watt meter. If the wattage tapers pretty quickly to shutoff, I think that means the cells are in good balance. I assume balancing causes it to linger. Assuming a highly efficient charger producing 54 volts, at 10 watts it's producing about 185ma. At 2 watts it's producing about 37 ma. It has been many months since I've seen a charger linger at low currents, so I think my batteries haven't been much out of balance.

I retired the three watt meters I had been using because better ones are cheap these days. The ones I have now pull 0.4 watt whether or not the backlight is on. The backlight makes it easier to monitor charging. I like to leave them plugged in so they serve as night lights and show me how the power company voltage varies. If I put one at each end of an outdoor extension cord and watch when I put a tool like a saw under load, I can see the voltage the tool is getting, the amps, and the voltage drop in the cord. From that I can calculate the gauge.

watt meter.jpg
 
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