The slid-hammer nail puller was a bit too pricey.

I bought some anti-slip deck tape to get free shipping.
I'm going to stick it to my batteries so I don't drop the damage things.
They're too slippery and don't have a handle, plus you can only grab the 14 pound battery with one hand because you have to hold the spring-loaded key lock open with the other hand.
Stupid Fricken design,.. 🙄

Yeah, ive done that too, but it'd be nice to have full length boards.

That's not 100% true.

The pallets that are painted blue are made from hardwood and are designed to be reused Many times.
Walmart has the Crescent slide-hammer puller for $40 and $80, depending on the vender. Amazon has other brands, ranging from $37 to $97.

I wished my Radrunner battery had a handle. It was mounted between the seat tube and the back fender, so I couldn't use two hands. As I feared, I lost my grip once, dropping it 10" onto concrete. My Radmission battery is on the down tube, so I can use both hands. My Abound battery is especially heavy, but the plastic cover on one side allows a sure grip.

I got some full-length boards from a pallet like yours, but that kind of wood didn't seem good for much.

If I'd known the blue wood was better, I would have painted my threshold! :)
 
Well,.. I bought a cat paw.
There were $10 versions available, but I went with the Estwing brand because they at least used to make good tools.

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I found this too,..

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The slid-hammer nail puller was a bit too pricey.



Everything is junk nowadays though, so we'll see what I end up with.

I bought some anti-slip deck tape to get free shipping.
I'm going to stick it to my batteries so I don't drop the damage things.
They're too slippery and don't have a handle, plus you can only grab the 14 pound battery with one hand because you have to hold the spring-loaded key lock open with the other hand.
Stupid Fricken design,.. 🙄




Yeah, ive done that too, but it'd be nice to have full length boards.



e of those fencing pliers and and always admonished anybody that used them not to beat on them like the brutes always did
That's not 100% true.

The pallets that are painted blue are made from hardwood and are designed to be reused Many times.
best nail puller I had was a set of fencing pliers "bluegrass" vended the business end was "bifurcated" I took good care of them and always admonished whom ever that borrowed them not to beat on them like the brutes do,I lent them to my brother when we were building woven wire fence,I told him not beat on them, a few minutes later they were returned with one of the jaws or end broken"what happened?" "I was beating on them" they were replaced with a POS set of fencing pliers that had a single end on the jaws, terrible junk seen a set like the ones that got broken but didn't have the means right then to purchase them( hard head as hard head does)
 
I bought this 64 ounce hammer 6 years ago to cut stumps flush with the ground. Using a framer's hatchet as a chisel was better than damaging a chain saw, but a claw hammer would have had to be swung faster, and a faster impact increases damage and danger.

Also, a heavier hammer is better at imparting energy to an object. The force of impact affects the hammer and the object. Kinetic energy is acceleration times distance, and acceleration is force divided by mass. Thus, with equally powerful impacts, a 4-pound hammer will bounce with only 1/4 as much energy as a 1-pound hammer.

My 4-pounder is often useful. When I climb a ladder to remove boards from the old shed, I'll take my 64-ounce blacksmith hammer and leave my 16-ounce claw hammer.

(All this time, I thought it was 22oz. I'm glad I checked. I am now in the market for a heavier claw hammer.)

4 pounder.jpg
 
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I used to cut stumps flush with an adze, similar to this one:

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I'd first cut a cross hatch pattern in the face of the stump with a chainsaw and then use the adze to chip out the square pieces.

The one I had was an old railroad tool that was used to cut notches in railroad ties for the tie plates.
 
I used to cut stumps flush with an adze, similar to this one:
In Alaska in 1971, I volunteered. They issued us 10¢ canteens, first-aid kits, sleeping bags, polyethylene sheets for tents and ground cloths, clothes line, and hard hats. They flew us to the smoke jumper camp at McGrath. It was in the 90s by day and didn't get much colder in the brief nights. With frost a few inches down, ground insulation was vital for sleeping. You can make it of crumpled newspaper, but the government didn't provide insulatin and there was no available material to make it. Sleeping on the permafrost left me with weeks of back spasms that brought tears to my eyes.

An amphibian flew us to the fire and rolled ashore. It was a swamp, but the fire was spreading underground. We were offered pulaskis or spades. One rule for using an axe is to have a stable stance. This tundra was very uneven, with lots of holes. Another rule is to clear away branches that could snag the axe. This area was covered with small trees and branches. It wasn't a good environment to use an axe, and the adze blade made it more dangerous. I chose a spade. I had a file to keep it sharp enough to chop through roots.

After a couple of hours, the straw boss gave me the honor of clearing a landing zone... alone. Everything had to be cleared much wider than the diameter of the rotor, and the length had to be much greater because helicopters don't do well hovering. There were too many trees and bushes to count. A chain saw would have been safest as well as quickest, but I had to use a pulaski.

After an hour or so, another firefighter brought me a can of tomato juice. I sat down, opened it, and took a sip. He froze, staring down. I looked down and wondered how I could have spilled that much juice on my jeans. I realized the back of the pulaski, the adze, had cut me to the bone a little below the knee, and my back hurt too much for me to notice. I wiggled my toes and realized my boot was full of blood. I figured I'd never make it 50 yards to my first-aid kit. The speechless witness handed me his. To cheer him up, I sang as I worked. "If I should die before my time should come, won't you bury my body out on Highway 51." I poured disinfectant over the wound and tied the bandage so tight my toes tingled a bit. I took off my boot, wrung the blood out of my sock, dipped it in swamp water, wrung again, and put it back on. I did the same with my bloody jeans.

I went right back to work, just in case somebody got hurt and needed a medevac. In a few minutes I stepped in a hole, soaking the bandage in brown water. Government rules called for 4 hours' sleep each 24 even if it never got dark. When it was time to lie down on the permafrost, the straw boss told us he could call in a helicopter, and if anyone was injured he'd better speak up because it would be several days before there was another chance. There were 14 in the crew and he didn't know if anyone was injured? He was establishing plausible deniability. He didn't want to medevac me because sending me alone on a lengthy labor had probably been against regulations. He hoped I would keep quiet, and if I died of blood poisoning, he could say it was my fault for not coming forward.

Unwilling to trust government doctors, I kept quiet. I preferred to trust the possibility of healing properties of brown swamp water. I bet right. I didn't leave that uncomfortably tight bandage on long. When I took it off, there was no bleeding. The wound healed almost overnight. The scar was so thin that it was hard to find.

Lessons learned:
1.Keep a Sunday newspaper under your shirt so you can crumple balls if you have to sleep on permafrost.
2. Never go anywhere without a chain saw, in case you have to clear a landing zone.
3. Throw your adze away.
4. Learn cheerful songs to entertain onlookers if you get hurt.
5. Keep a bottle of swamp water in your medicine cabinet.

Pulaski.jpg
 
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We all made one of those in electronics class in 1981.
We made our own circuit boards with neon bulbs

I Found It !!!
I didn't think I had it anymore.

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I've never cleaned it, so that's 45 year old dirt. 😀

It still works,..

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Also, a heavier hammer is better at imparting energy to an object.

I found this 8 pound sledgehammer in the creek over 10 years ago,..


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The handle was warped so I cut it off to make it a stubby. I use it all the time.
A slow speed thud works better and is easier to control than a high speed thwack.

Same idea with my stubby hammer.
You can choke up on it without the handle getting in the way,..

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I've got a full size sledgehammer for when I really need to pound the snot outta something.
Like getting my crank arms off because I didn't know that there was a special tool for the job. 😄
 
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My daily tools are these days those

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Start bottom to top adjusting half-way. Then left to right adjusting half-way. So if it is off by an inch move it to a half-inch.

@fooferdoggie 's nail gun reminds my of something I have wanted for years. Pennies are not worth touching. So why not have a high powered electric penny disc shooter? It would be like those spring actuated ones when you were a kid but high powered.
 
+1 on the Park derailleur hanger alignment gauge. I use mine frequently. Not cheap, but I can get my derailleur shifting smooth as butter.
It’s a tool I’m borrowing from an actual garage road bike mechanic, but I’m finding there isn’t really any replacement for a tool like this and should probably get my own.
 
It depends on how many gears you have. 10-sp and up need the cogs replaced at .5%. Sometimes it is just the smallest cog that can be replaced with the new chain, saving a ton of money. It only has four or five teeth touching the chain at any given time so it faces more pressure than a larger/lower gear. Also with power assistance it is easy to forget to always downshift when applying the brakes.

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It depends on how many gears you have. 10-sp and up need the cogs replaced at .5%.
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Which is all written on the tool :) 0.5% is for 11-12 speed.

Sometimes it is just the smallest cog that can be replaced with the new chain, saving a ton of money. It only has four or five teeth touching the chain at any given time so it faces more pressure than a larger/lower gear.
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Eight serviceable cogs on CS-M8100-12...

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Five serviceable cogs on CS-M5100-11. (The indicated ones were replaced, and also the gearing ratios were adjusted by selecting proper cogs in the process). (It is 6 serviceable sprockets on CS-M8000-11).

In case of properly maintained chain, and chain replacement at proper moment, the smaller sprockets of the cassette can outlive three or four chains. With proper shifting, the smaller sprockets get worn at a similar rate (although it is true the smallest cogs go first). The issue with sprocket replacement is replacing 5 or 6 or 8 of them cost almost the same as a new cassette. (Often, it is more practical to just replace the whole cassette).

What is even worse, some very expensive cassettes (especially SRAM but not only) are made from a single block of metal and are not serviceable at all. Therefore, chain maintenance and replacement is the only way to protect a cassette that costs a small fortune.

So far, I was using a cheap gauge and a digital caliper to determine the chain stretch. These measurements were often misleading; I was also checking the chain mileage in the maintenance log on Strava. Park Tool CC-2 is as precise and easy to use as my worries are gone.

Interestingly, some modern chains and drivetrains such as SRAM T-Type require another gauge, the CC-4.
 
I have used one of the CC-4s for a year. It is a little tricky to use and different people come to different conclusions on the same drivetrain. But once you have used it on a couple dozen bikes it works great. I sometimes still use a digital caliper and calculator. I can get a wider span (larger sample size) that way than a basic chain checker. A guy got all pissed off last week because he never maintained his chain, never replaced it or the cogs, and after three years of riding his heavy mid-drive cargo bike daily, it started skipping. He wanted to have his mid-drive removed because of the 'malfunction'.
 
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