What's it Worth to You

[dean1]

How much more would you pay for an CCS/RCS if it had a 750W 8fun mid-drive (holding other features the same)?

[Editor: This is not meant to be a debate or discussion on mid v. rear. The question is primarily for those that may prefer a mid for the already known reasons. Thus, the answer is about pricing and market.]

 

[NeilCruz]

I am not sure that I would want a middrive - you would need a much more complex shifting system wouldn't you? I am studying like mad trying to remember my bike training as a kid in prep for my bike.

The biggest benefit with middrive would be being able to change the wheels/rims and ease of rear-flat-tire repair.

Is there some other advantage of middrive for a "hardtail" bike like the RCS?

It would seem the Cadence + torque sensor gives us most of the advantages without the complexity impact.

(In the back of my head is this: The more I have to send my bike to the LBS for core maintenance or basic repairs, the more expensive the bike will be to operate.)

Of course those bikes with the fabric (carbon fiber?) chains sure seem easier to deal with re wet/mud/snow.

Hmmm

I think I would rather they offered the RCS with an option for better rims/wheels to go with the suspension seat post accessory.

Ohh, and a battery recondition/replacement program - send back your less than 2 year old battery for recycling and get 20% off a replacement pack. That would be nice

 

[Chris Hammond]

I think this is just part of the mid vs. hub drive discussion on other threads. Because I use my CCS as a long distance, high speed commuter, a hub motor makes more sense than a mid-drive. If I had and RCS that I was planning on off-roading a lot then a mid would make sense.

 

[dean1]

I think this is just part of the mid vs. hub drive discussion on other threads.

That was not my intention. I've added a clarification in my post.

 

[Bruce Arnold]

I could see a mid-drive for the RCS, making it a better off-road performer. For the CCS, I'm with @Chris Hammond - a hub drive is a darn good choice for a commuter.

 

[Barry S]

To get an idea of where pricing might be you can start by looking at the price for the Biktrix Juggernaut Ultra 1000, which would be the closest match to the RCS. The motor can be programmed for 750W, 1000W or 1500W. No 52V batteries yet though.

 

[dean1]

To get an idea of where pricing might be you can start by looking at the price for the Biktrix Juggernaut Ultra 1000, which would be the closest match to the RCS. The motor can be programmed for 750W, 1000W or 1500W. No 52V batteries yet though.

Thanks. I like their entire Juggernaut line. But was just wondering what the difference in price might be if the drive was the only difference. The Jugger is $3000 but if it was a hub drive I don't think it would be RCS price.

If the 2019 version of RCS Or CCS for that matter) was a midrive with all other things being equal, what do you suppose might be the price increase? $200 more? $500 more? No increase? If I end up cancelling my order I am thinking about a mid-drive if one can be found with the same value proposition as JB's (I think I found one that's close). Am I making sense?

 

[Barry S]

Am I making sense?

Perfectly. I thought you were wondering what the market would bear for a RCS mid-drive.

Yeah, I don't think the Juggernaut would come close to the RCS price just by swapping out the drive. Perhaps the best way to go about it would be to see what those drives cost if you were doing a DIY build. For instance, a Bafang 48V 750W rear fat bike motor conversion kit will run $535 through RisunMotor Ebike Store Store via AliExpress. A Bafang 48V 750W BBS02 mid-drive kit will run you $436 through Eunorau Ebike Online Store via AliExpress. It looks like $100 savings to go mid-drive vs rear hub. I may be over simplifying things.

 

[jazz]

Am I making sense?

The Jugger Ultra does cost more not only because of the max drive (which alone cost 2x+ more than the Bafang hub motor) but because it has to have a special integrated frame to house it and thus drives up the cost. The Ultra drive is possibly the best Bafang makes in terms of component quality and build. The Voltbike yukon is close to the RCS in price and features - http://www.voltbike.ca/voltbike-yukon/voltbike-yukon-750-limited-2018.html

 

[MisterBritcom]

Not a penny.

 

[NeilCruz]

<...snip...> The Voltbike yukon is close to the RCS in price and features - http://www.voltbike.ca/voltbike-yukon/voltbike-yukon-750-limited-2018.html

Juiced Pro's vs Yukon:

Its close-ish - but I think the Cadence + Torque sensor is really what makes the CCS/RCS so fun while still feeling like a bike (rather than feeling like a moped).​

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I am just past 1st week with RCS and I find I use most of the gears, but I spend most of my time in 7 or 8, so maybe the volt's 7 speed would be ok.​

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Capacity:​

I am also 90% sure that a 48V 16ah would only be enough for about half of my rides. I think I would be getting back with less than 20% capacity, and at least one ride would end up with less than 10%. That you can get your Juiced CCS/RCS with at least 3 capacities is another real big benefit.​

I am very interested in what the power curve/profile looks like for the Juiced 52V smaller batteries. Will they get good assist even below 25% capacity?

 

[jazz]

Even if you wanted a Rip Current you can't order it (other than medium red) and it looks like the Volt bikes are currently in stock for the Yukon model

 

[Chris Hammond]

I am very interested in what the power curve/profile looks like for the Juiced 52V smaller batteries. Will they get good assist even below 25% capacity?

I have a 52V battery on my CCS, so far the lowest I have taken my battery down is to ~30% or about 47.5V, (the capacity of a battery really doesn't affect its instantaneous performance, the voltage determines that). The bike's performance does lag some at this point, but its really only noticeable from the perspective of knowing how the bike performs with the battery at 80% (my normal max charge). It is nothing like the reports I have read from others that state their bikes are giving minimal assist at lower voltages. I really don't intend to drop my battery below 20%, if I get close to that at some point I'll update on performance.

 

[Alaskan]

If you live in a hilly area, which I do, and especially if you live at the top of one of those hills (so every ride ends with a steep climb) then a mid drive that uses the gearing to achieve more torque and climbing ability makes a lot of sense. The added strain of the electrical assist has to go somewhere. On a mid drive it is in the chain and gear/transmission system. On a hub drive it is on the spokes and wheels.

 

[Nova Haibike]

The question is primarily for those that may prefer a mid for the already known reasons. Thus, the answer is about pricing and market.]

If Juiced had a CCS with a mid, would I have considered it? No, because if the other specs were the same, then the bike would not meet my desire for higher end components.