What are the most important factors when buying an ebike?

Why did you want an ebike to begin with? 1700 will buy you a pretty good traditional bike... But that depends on why you're buying it.

If you're a not much of a cyclist (I was into motorbikes more than bikes) - but the thought of electric assistance changed your mind about the whole thing - then buying a traditional bike won't help you much. In 6 months time you'll feel like you always did. But you'll be 1700 worse off.

But that cheap electric bike might convert you to the possibility of riding ebikes. It won't be a perfect bike. My first ebike was far from perfect, but it opened the door and showed what's possible. Since then I've covered thousands of miles. Miles/trips/adventures I'd have never done on a traditional bike.

Plus... I'd have to say... Don't expect this bike to last more than 3 maybe 4 years at most. It's not going to be a life-long relationship. Think of it as a starter bike, like you no doubt had a starter car.

Bikes from every brand break, not just the chinese ones, so it's not worth spending upteen thousands on your first bike chasing perfection, they'll always be a better bike coming out anytime soon.
I actually like cycling, but the thing is the long commute and slightly hilly area which I live. Actually my traditional bike has recently broken down, so I decided to buy an e-bike which would save my time and energy. Living in Finland I only cycle during spring and summer because winter is very icy and snowy and I would not dare to take my bike.
 
Like many people, my first ebike was a budget model, a Magnum Ui5 for under US$2,000. Despite its flaws, I got hooked. Within six months I sold it and upgraded to a Haibike AllMtn full-suspension ebike for $4,000 (with a discount). Six years later, I am keeping the Haibike and buying a Yuba Spicy Curry All Terrain for nearly $8,000 (after all the upgrades and add-ons).

@Mary_Walker, start with a Rad no matter that it's inexpensive; it fits your budget. My daughter has a Radwagon. She likes it a lot. She uses it to ferry her two-year-old daughter to daycare every day. As to whether you need gears, yes you do if you live in even a slightly hilly area, as you say you do. Ebikes are twice as heavy as regular bikes, and you will welcome the flexibility that gears give you.
 
I think the qualities that will eventually come to be most important are battery reliability and bike weight. The latter seems like it has been solved with a motor, but if you want bikes to be picked up by the younger enthusiasts, they have to handle like sports cars, not garbage trucks.

I follow the geezer ebike forums on facebook, populated by retiree baby boomers with tons of money. The big complaint is they can't lift their bikes onto an RV rack. Or they can't lift their trikes, which are selling faster than you would think. Balance problems afflict many of us.

But speaking to Mary Walker, the biggest factor is reliability and you want a bike that runs, and one that yoiu or someone else can keep running for you. Don't import a bike from a US vendor who has no infrastructure in your country.
 
Thank you so much for your honest reply :) Do you think Rad City would be better than Radmission 1? I have read that gears are not that important on an ebike, is that really so? Rad city is more heavier on 29kg with gears, where Radmission is lighter on 21kg but is single speed.
A bike you can shift will prove itself MUCH more versatile than an equivalent single speed. Lighter? Consider smaller battery, no fenders, and no rack...
 
As tempting as it is to buy a cheap bike and call it a gateway drug (I did this with a Sondors), the long view on this is you'll spend a lot more money on the cheap bike. Because you'll end up replacing it with something better. So you pay for two bikes. Or you incrementally upgrade your bike and that in turn is more money - although you can counter-argue as I did when I did it that this allows an upgrade path that is friendlier to the budget.

So when someone asks for advice, I recommend they do it right the first time as this is a movie we have all watched before.

If you go the low-cost internet bike route, you really want to source a local bike shop who says they will work on your chosen bike before you buy it. Do not take it for granted that something like a brake adjustment that has nothing to do with the electrics will be taken on by a shop. Oftentimes the refusal is maddeningly a blanket one. Take the time to check out your local shops' attitudes on internet buyers.

The "gears don't matter" thing is true for hub motor bikes. But its only half the story. The gears don't matter to the motor because the motor powers the bike thru the axle, which means it is single speed. The gears DO however matter to you the rider when you are helping the motor by pedaling. This is why hub motor'd bikes are not the best choice for hilly terrain - for the same reason you want gears on a regular bike where you have to be the motor.

But you noted you don't live in steep hills and so a geared hub motor should be fine. Which is good news because those bikes tend to be less expensive.
 
I follow the geezer ebike forums on facebook
You have a strong stomach. I've never seen as many "experts" with one eBike experience. So many goofy ideas and fellow old farts that just know it all. I can't help but wonder with your high level of eBike speak and knowledge how you can hang there. You must have the patience of a Saint.
 
Mary - just a quick one, do you have Decathlon in Finland? I just noticed they have a range of low price hub motor e bikes I haven't noticed before for under Euro1000. Difference from similiar specced Chinese imports is these will be well tested, reliable and with solid after sales service backed up by a huge international chain of shops etc. If they are in Finland worth a look.

Good luck hunting!
 
I actually like cycling, but the thing is the long commute and slightly hilly area which I live. Actually my traditional bike has recently broken down, so I decided to buy an e-bike which would save my time and energy. Living in Finland I only cycle during spring and summer because winter is very icy and snowy and I would not dare to take my bike.

I live in slightly hilly area too... Some people love riding up hills but I'm not one of those people. :) In fact the hills were a major contributor to my bike spending most of the year in the garage. That all changed when I got an ebike! :) Now my motorbike spends as much time in the garage haha

If I was you, I'd try go for a local "big brand".... In the UK I'd say somewhere like Halfords or as mentioned above by Rás Cnoic, Decathlon. A "high street" retailer. I'm afraid I don't know any Finnish retailers.

At this price-range, you won't get the very latest and best bikes - they often compromise quite a bit to make a profit. So really you need to rely on their Warranty/Parts (in store) Replacement and easy High Street Accessibility!

I've just checked UK ebike stock available and its looking slim, global supply issues must be still causing havoc. Maybe worth waiting until more stock arrives before deciding to purchase, so you can choose from the best of the best rather than the best of what's left.
 
As tempting as it is to buy a cheap bike and call it a gateway drug (I did this with a Sondors), the long view on this is you'll spend a lot more money on the cheap bike. Because you'll end up replacing it with something better. So you pay for two bikes. Or you incrementally upgrade your bike and that in turn is more money - although you can counter-argue as I did when I did it that this allows an upgrade path that is friendlier to the budget.

So when someone asks for advice, I recommend they do it right the first time as this is a movie we have all watched before.

If you go the low-cost internet bike route, you really want to source a local bike shop who says they will work on your chosen bike before you buy it. Do not take it for granted that something like a brake adjustment that has nothing to do with the electrics will be taken on by a shop. Oftentimes the refusal is maddeningly a blanket one. Take the time to check out your local shops' attitudes on internet buyers.

The "gears don't matter" thing is true for hub motor bikes. But its only half the story. The gears don't matter to the motor because the motor powers the bike thru the axle, which means it is single speed. The gears DO however matter to you the rider when you are helping the motor by pedaling. This is why hub motor'd bikes are not the best choice for hilly terrain - for the same reason you want gears on a regular bike where you have to be the motor.

But you noted you don't live in steep hills and so a geared hub motor should be fine. Which is good news because those bikes tend to be less expensive.
I would like to know how many people that have owned and ridden e-bikes for a couple years or more, that can honestly say they are still riding the one they started with as their primary e-bike? Or, did you learn enough from that first one where you felt it was no longer adequate for your needs and you moved on to something nicer, that fit your needs better?

"Buying the second bike first" assumes that you have a lot of information (and money) going into a buying decision. Like is an e-bike even going to work out for you for instance. I find the "buy the second bike first" logic pretty optimistic.

The same logic "buy the second one first" floats around within the RV world, and it doesn't make a lot of sense there either. For you first RV, are you more likely going to go with something that makes sense, that can be used right away, or go right into that apartment on wheels that going to cost several years salary? I'm sure there are some that will try that, but which makes the most sense for YOU?

So agreed, you pay for 2 bikes, but you sell the first one. Hence the vote for a popular bike like a RAD, to maximize the resale value and "sale-ability" of that first bike, knowing full well there's a good chance it will be replaced as your experience builds......
 
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I would like to know how many people that have owned and ridden e-bikes for 2 years or more, that can honestly say they are still riding the one they started with as a primary e-bike? Or, did you learn enough from that first one where you felt it was no longer adequate for your needs and you moved on to something nicer, that fit your needs better?
our experience builds......
Me. One bike, 4 motors 2 controllers. Motor spun without moving today, on to the fourth (3rd cost $37 used)
Weighs 43 kilos with tools water rain gear panniers. I don't see the fear of weight. But I don't take my bike for rides on my car. I don't drive one anymore. This bike has never jerked the front wheel sideways and dumped me on my chin, unlike the 3 previous ones.
 
Me. One bike, 4 motors 2 controllers. Motor spun without moving today, on to the fourth (3rd cost $37 used)
Weighs 43 kilos with tools water rain gear panniers. I don't see the fear of weight. But I don't take my bike for rides on my car. I don't drive one anymore. This bike has never jerked the front wheel sideways and dumped me on my chin, unlike the 3 previous ones.
Which is it? One bike, or 3 previous ones? Honestly, I think I get what you are saying. But I'd be willing to bet, each time you rebuild that bike, you build smarter?
 
There are many good points made here, particularly that your budget is a bit light for a high-miler/quality commuter ebike, but to add one key point in my mind:

'Cheap Chinese Parts' is used far too liberally around discussion like this, and it must be mentioned that pretty much any 'brand-name' e-bike (including Rad) is using brand-name components - just higher or lower on the quality scale. Shimano makes derailleurs/shifters in a range of quality from the entry-level Altus and Acera, up to the Race-ready XTR. Sram does the same thing. Brakes and other components from Tektro, etc, fall on a similar scale. You can buy bikes by any manufacturer with that whole range of parts installed.

It is certainly often true that you get what you pay for, and if a brand is using no-name components, well buyer-beware. But if a brand is using Shimano parts, just realize and understand where those parts fall on the scale of quality. Many of the import bikes come with lower to mid-tier Shimano or SRAM components, but at least you can predictably service or replace those name-brand parts. Your service interval will likely be reduced, and yes you may need to perform more minor adjustments and tweaking, but there is no reason to run away from those products.

I would be cautious with mail-order bikes that don't identify the specific components, or use too many proprietary parts. Those potentially won't be serviceable in 5 years. Others using the lowest tier components likely won't make great high-mileage commuters as you will feel like it's always needing service, and the spare parts budget may be noticeably increased over time.

I certainly endorse the 'spend as much as you can afford' model, with the caveat that you have done the research to verify the bike and components are priced according to the quality. But don't be afraid of entry-level bikes if you truly cannot afford more. Just appreciate the limitations and trade-offs you must accept. :)
 
I also was interested in this option, a bit higher than my budget though, but they also sell it in Finland for a couple of hundreds more expensive!

 
Which is it? One bike, or 3 previous ones? Honestly, I think I get what you are saying. But I'd be willing to bet, each time you rebuild that bike, you build smarter?
The huffy savannah cruiser, the Diamondback MTB, the Pacific Quantum MTB, unpowered bikes, all three the front wheel jerked sideways and dumped me on my chin. 5 times in 8 years. The Pacific broke the chin. I hit ridges of gravel, a high pavement separator, a speed bump, a stick, that caused the wheel to jerk sideways. Riders on roadbikereview told me to "hold onto the handlebar". Yeah, right. Was doing so. Stepped up to $1500 bike without power, yuba bodaboda. The current Yuba stretch cargo bike has my weight on the front fork which helps stabilize it from twisting 90 deg sideways. 8000 miles, no falls.
Very similar cruiser bike my Mother's 1946 Firestone with same wheels & tires, same upright posture, was totally stable. Bikes these days have "quick steering" which makes them IMHO unstable. I couldn't buy a bike with more trail in the front fork to save my chin! Checked 170 frames on a database before I bought the yuba. Talked to a custom bike builder: no changes allowed in their dangerous quick steering forks.
The 7 speed shimano is the axle that came unscrewed on the road & dropped the balls, forcing me to push it home. No solid bearing race; race is screwed on a 3/8" axle with no locknut. Comes unscrewed easily. The 8 speed shimano on my yuba has been no trouble for 4 years ~8000 miles.
Bosch mid drive gives you the ability to climb 333 meters in an hour. Geared hub drives will overheat on that much rise. Cost is more frequent chain replacement and battery costing >$1000 if stolen. Some people have complained about long waits (months) for the right battery.
 
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I also was interested in this option, a bit higher than my budget though, but they also sell it in Finland for a couple of hundreds more expensive!


It's not too bad really, Bosch Motor, Hub Gears, Hydraulic Brakes, Lights etc... It could be a good candidate!

I'm always a little wary of any retailer with names like Bike Discount through! But they could be entirely legit. Maybe worth checking out their reputation.
 
It's not too bad really, Bosch Motor, Hub Gears, Hydraulic Brakes, Lights etc... It could be a good candidate!

I'm always a little wary of any retailer with names like Bike Discount through! But they could be entirely legit. Maybe worth checking out their reputation.
We actually bought my husband's traditional bike from them. Also Cube, he has been happily using it for the last four years.
 
I also was interested in this option, a bit higher than my budget though, but they also sell it in Finland for a couple of hundreds more expensive!

Cube is a reliable and highly recommended brand.
You should, however, check whether there is any Bosch E-Bike service point around you. If anything fails on the electrical side, Bosch E-Bike is there to help.
 
"As tempting as it is to buy a cheap bike and call it a gateway drug (I did this with a Sondors), the long view on this is you'll spend a lot more money on the cheap bike. Because you'll end up replacing it with something better. So you pay for two bikes. Or you incrementally upgrade your bike and that in turn is more money - although you can counter-argue as I did when I did it that this allows an upgrade path that is friendlier to the budget."

Really? I've had a stock Rad Rover for two years now and 3300 miles. I've replaced the chain once and the brake pads once. Soon I'll need new tires.
It will climb any hill within riding distance of my house in 3rd. gear and I'm 73 with a mild heart condition. Please explain why I need to spend $3,000+ to buy a bike to save me money? Do chains, brake pads, and tires on expensive bikes last thousands of miles more than on my bike?
 
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