Wanting to upgrade my existing Ebike and need help

[indianajo]

5. If I upgrade my hub motor do you normally just restring your spokes or get a bike shop to install it or do you have to get it pre-strung on a rim?

7. How do I make sure I don't over run the hub motor and burn it out? I am looking at a 1000w sustained motor with peak about 1500w

I see eiwol didn't bother to provide you with a spoke hole diameter, nor the number of spokes. Nice drawing with dimensions that don't matter. Since you have one, you will have to take a caliper and measure the spoke diameter, then count the number of spokes. the axle is in the way of a dial or digital caliper, you'll also need a transfer caliper or divider www.starrett.com/category/precision-measuring-tools/calipers,-dividers--trammels/1113 to take the measurement. With those numbers, and the offset which they did give, you can put the numbers in a spoke calculator and get a nice big lie. I tried various spoke calculators, and the # of crosses is important. I miss counted that, got the wrong length spokes. I shortened and those were too short. The 3rd batch was about right, but some installed longer than others and I had to use the extra long 12 mm spoke nipples to take up the slack. Bike shops have spoke threading machines. My LBS charges $200 to lace a wheel. Which is why I did it myself when I bought an IGH. If you can get a pre laced wheel, it will be a *****y double layer one which requires extra long stems on tubes available in my town only over the internet. Plus the prelaced wheels come with *****y imitation steel spokes, which require adjustment sometimes. The wheel I built I used DTswiss spokes, which were not a maintenance problem since I don't jump curbs.
Hub motors burn out if run at full throttle up a grade or through high snow or powder sand for too long. So possibility depends on your terrain. Mac motor quotes 25 minutes at max throttle, 25 amps. My $221 ebikeling 1300 W geared hubmotor + controller + display would put out 30 amps, but the torque was not that much more at 30 than at 20 amps. So when ebikeling motor wore out the gears, I bought a Mac12 with a controller that only puts out 500 W. It will start on 15% grades at 330 lb gross even so. I ride up >77 hills on my 30 mile commute to summer property. Since they are rolling hills with many downgrades, the motor doesn't burn up on a 3.5 hour trip.
I deleted the *****y ebikeling display, it was inaccurate, shut off coasting down hills which is 40% of the time on my route, and fogged over from the rain. I have red-yellow-green LED's in the throttle to show battery voltage.
Second ahicks motion, buy motor-controller-display from same source to insure compatibiity. If display-controller only, you have to match the motor connector by looking at those tiny pictures on the alibaba/ebay/amazon ad. Might work, might not. The white rectangular 6 pin connector was the same between by ebikeling kit and a DD 1000 w power wheel kit I bought , so I used the ebikeling motor and the throttle/controller from the DD kit. Displays are much more finicky, even a software revision may make a controller & display incompatible.

 

[AHicks]

Yup, I've read where EggRider and Phaserunner can work together.

Forgot the rim question. I've found the rims to be a pretty inexpensive option to buy prelaced on to the motor when you're buying the motor. -Al

 

[tomjasz]

I tell how many amps my battery is rated for?

Use your CA3 and track power levels! An 18A controller is likely paired with a 20A or very close battery output. Kind of a confusing thread as it grows... At first, sounds like you were starting a new build. Sorry I missed that bit...
I'm pretty certain that is NOT a Bafang motor.

Eiwol EW09R

EW09R
——

Description
Rated Voltage: 36/48V Rated Power: 250-750W Wheel Size: 20"-28" Rated Speed: 25-42Km Rated Efficiency: ≥78% Reduction Ratio: 1: 5 Open Size: 165-190 Weight: 4.2kg Noise: ≤55db Cable Location: Shaft center right Spoke Specification: 12G/13G Hall Sensor: Optional Integrate speed sensor: Optional Surface: Black/Silver Magnets number: 20 Brake Type: Disc brake Drive and Freewheel: Rear5-7s Waterproof Grade: IP54

 

[AHicks]

Wowee. Fast moving thread!

So we need to see a pic of that motor connection. If it's a round water proof connection, pull it apart and show us (clearly) what it looks like inside.

 

[tomjasz]

Yup, I've read where EggRider and Phaserunner ASI can work together.

Accelerated Systems Controllers​

ASI controllers are compatible with EggRider V2 display.

Please read our dedicated page for more information

• ASI BAC 300
• ASI BAC 500
• ASI BAC 800
• ASI BAC 355
• ASI BAC 555
• ASI BAC 855
• ASI BAC 4000
• ASI BAC 8000

 

[AHicks]

I was thinking if there were a controller prewired for his motor connection, that might be an attractive option.

Thomas, any experience with the ASI controllers you'd like to share?

 

[tomjasz]

It's much cleaner than CA3.

And nearly as much of a support nightmare for those with very weak computer skills. I honestly can't imagine ever switching back and forth between program parameters. I cringe whenever an oldster like me buys one and gets all confused with firmware and updates. I'm sending one to Gionii and never heard back from Feliz and how he did.

 

[tomjasz]

is there a possibility Phaserunner will work with EggRider.

Sure MAYBE possible, but is it a process the usual buyers can embrace? There have been all sorts of "fixes" for many components on endless_sphere. But I don't find a lot of engineer types here able and willing to take on what could be a frustrating project. IME YMMV

 

[AHicks]

Great point Thomas. That's where I keep getting in trouble. Just because I have an easy time grasping a concept doesn't mean everyone else will. You can't assume much, because it could easily turn out to be an expensive (bad) lesson for the person you are trying to help. Sometimes it's best to stop short, without providing ALL of the answers, forcing the person you are trying to help to do some reading.....

 

[MrCaspan]

I don't think OP even decided on what controller to get.

I think the biggest drawback for him of getting a Baserunner was because of CA3.
Hopefully EggRider will solve the problem. (assuming it works with Baserunner)
It's much cleaner than CA3.

Yes yes yes.. I actually just watched the baserunner video and it will fit my downtube battery and also in the future if I go to the 48 or 52v triangle battery that's 20Ah it would still work.. This is perfect .... ONLY if the pictured above controller screen could work with it. I just don't want to use their screen. I know it's better but it is FUGLY!! and takes up too much space! This is all I need a simple screen that shows wattage and power left. I could care less about speed, the bugs in my teeth tell me how fast I'm going!

 

[tomjasz]

Thomas, any experience with the ASI controllers you'd like to share?

Sorry, no. IMO and IME those "upgrades" are for fellas that want to wrench! I prefer riding and being able to efficiently and safely stop.

I do have a baserunner waiting for me to build a new battery, or replace my 36V BMS and use it there. I tried 60V and didn't care for the speed and power. Silly me has dropped back to 36V builds.

 

[tomjasz]

I know it's better but it is FUGLY!! and takes up too much space!

From EggRider site, "The downside of it is you need to use their Cycle Analyst display (which is big and ugly) if you want all the functions."

ASI settings are all there too.

 

[MrCaspan]

Okay I just scrolled up and saw your post.
I have never heard of Eiwol EW09R, that looks very similar to Bafang G060.

But anyways, I was suggesting that, if you have Bafang G060 (I thought you did, but now I'm not sure) you could update the internal to more heavy duty G060.750DC.
Most fat bikes have either 350W or 500W rated more overvolted to 750W. (or 350W overvolted to 500W) because overvolting can be done relatively safely, a lot of ebike companies do this to save the cost.

But if you're upgrading the controller, it is good idea to get a heavy duty motor too.

After watching the video I think I understand a bit better what you were saying I'm a fan of the eboltons channel and understand now what you were getting at!

 

[MrCaspan]

Wowee. Fast moving thread!

So we need to see a pic of that motor connection. If it's a round water proof connection, pull it apart and show us (clearly) what it looks like inside.

Yes very fast but trying to keep up I also just realized they use twisty ties to hold my wires up LOL No zip ties I guess if it works it's not stupid right?

 

[MrCaspan]

Also I did a semester of electotech in collage before I decided to switch to networking hardware as my major so I am not afraid of some soldering and heat shrink. I was building proto type boards in collage so even if I have to manually wire something up I am fine to get that Egg display to work with the baserunner

 

[MrCaspan]

I believe that's a Higo Z910 connector, which is one of the most popular one.

But does it matter though? Because what are you going to be replacing?

If you're going to be replacing motor and controller, I don't think what connector you currently have would matter since you will be replacing the whole unit anyways.

I'm going to leave the motor for now and just replace the controller and screen the motor might be perfectly fine. Only upgrade of the controller will tell!

 

[tomjasz]

very low resolution.

I still run a couple of 6-year-old C961 B&W. I can always read them. No HBO...

 

[MrCaspan]

That EggRidder screen looks like exactly what I am looking for! Seems like it has tons of configuration options and as long as it could work with the edgerunner controller then seems like the right fit for me. Seems like I have to decide though based on my current motor I would have to use their lower model Z9 as is uses the Z910 connector that my current motor uses. In the future if I want to upgrade my motor I will have to upgrade the controller also!

 

[tomjasz]

ruins the aesthetics

Yes, I often read your comments about how something "looks". All good, I haven't a care about esthetics.

 

[stanmiller]

I have a Bafang DPC 18 color display on my Electra Townie and a Bafang SW102 on my Mongoose. I prefer the SW102. The Eggrider is an SW102 with custom firmware. That said, the button action on the DPC 18's remote keypad is pretty sweet.