250 watt motor and 18max current controller?

[PCeBiker]

Like this if you know what I mean? Think it would work?

Mounting a hub motor to an aluminum suspension fork is a Bad Idea.

Buying a steel fork may be a better option.

^^^^ What he said.

 

[PCeBiker]

If you jury rig the torque arm,

I always say Jerry rig.

Jerry's the guy you call when sumthin's broke and can't be fixed.

It has nothing to do with a courtroom unless Jerry is your mechanic.

 

[stompandgo]

I always say Jerry rig.

Jerry's the guy you call when sumthin's broke and can't be fixed.

It has nothing to do with a courtroom unless Jerry is your mechanic.

If you loan it to a friend and they maim themselves due to your negligence, Jerry won't matter, the jury will.

 

[Electricmover]

Buying a steel fork may be a better option. https://www.aliexpress.com/ssr/3000...c=aw.ds&is_retargeting=true&afSmartRedirect=n

The link does not work for me. Yeah best would be new everything but this is more of a budget project. Kind of fun to see what I can do with just a little. So the torque arm is optional but kind of fun if I could get it onto there somehow. Just want something that will keep the wheel from spinning out of the fork.

 

[Electricmover]

One thing to keep in mind. If you jury rig the torque arm, and it breaks, that risks ripping the hub motor cable, leaving you stranded and on a hunt for a replacement cable.

Yeah but the alternative might be to replace my face So I think I let the cable go But I see your point. No fun having a fucked up cable either. But maybe it could be hooked onto the side where the cable is not.

I am trying to create some type of torque arm just for safety. If this bike becomes wrecked it is not the end of the world. But if I ride it hard, lend it to a friend or I sell it to someone later I need something to keep that wheel in place.

 

[Electricmover]

I always say Jerry rig.

By the way PCeBiker what you said about the pulses and your car(I think it was you) it disappeared when I switched out the controller to another one. A DC controller. Now is 17 max current. Sounding much better. To this I have a S866 display. Works well because now I have levels of speed and power. But I am not sure if it has a setting for max current limit ? I have not used this display before. Mostly sw900 and ktlcd3 before. Anyway the project is becoming alive and it works to ride with. But now I just need some creative way to put a torque arm onto the old junk.

Also, I am thinking about making it an all wheel drive if I find another rear hub for the backwheel in time. But seems to be hard to find this match, not only for torque arm, but also for hub motors. And then I mean the whole m10 10mm axle slot that I have. Really strange size actually. Everything seems to be built for m12 and m14 and m16. So it qould be fund if I can make it happen.

 

[RunForTheHills]

It doesn't have to be expensive though. I know you are in Europe, but I see steel forks as cheap as $30 here. You can probably get a decent one for $50-$60. You may be able to pick one up used, but the steerer tube could have already been cut. If you don't have disc brakes, replacing the fork would also allow you to put a disc brake on the front. See if this link works: https://www.dzpazar.com/rigid-forks-c-27_28_38_1314_5639_12393.htm

 

[PCeBiker]

,.. Anyway the project is becoming alive and it works to ride with. But now I just need some creative way to put a torque arm onto the old junk.

If you were to obtain some old junkie steel forks from the trash, you'd be way better off than with your aluminum suspension forks, but if you insist on using your suspension forks, then those "torque pads" that you ordered should help.

Keep in mind that "when" your suspension forks fail, it will most likely happen when you're going fast, and you hit some sort of bump.
Aluminum forks can have their dropouts snap off without warning, so wear your helmet, and always be prepared to go over the handlebars at any time.

One piece steel forks really are a much better option.
Even steel suspension forks are better than what you're using.

We've been through all this last year, and it really shouldn't be that hard to find appropriate forks for what you want to do. Even something free should be easy to find.

Thread 'New bike with weird front dropout - Need to fit front hub' https://forums.electricbikereview.c...rd-front-dropout-need-to-fit-front-hub.57081/

 

[JL0256]

It's not a stupid idea, but you have to be mindful of how you ride. The motor can likely handle short bursts of 18A, but the danger zone is stalling on hills. If you are going slow up a steep grade at full throttle, that energy turns into heat very fast, regardless of the outside temperature.
If you're mostly on flats, you might be fine, but lowering it to 15A would give you a much bigger safety margin. Good luck with the build.

 

[Electricmover]

It's not a stupid idea, but you have to be mindful of how you ride. The motor can likely handle short bursts of 18A, but the danger zone is stalling on hills. If you are going slow up a steep grade at full throttle, that energy turns into heat very fast, regardless of the outside temperature.
If you're mostly on flats, you might be fine, but lowering it to 15A would give you a much bigger safety margin. Good luck with the build.

Thanks. Yeah I need to be careful

It now has a max current of 17amps from a DC controller. I switched out the old one. So a little less current at least. But not much. This one sounds better and the bursts of power are gone. Now the sound is smoother.

If I put an extra motor on the back wheel the torque could end up being a bit less on the front. Even though the bike will be more dangerous overall

I will consider changing the fork to steel in the future, but probably not since this feels a bit too much work for this budget-bike. I will go for steel in future more ambitious projects. But of course it would be better with steel. But for now I will use the torque washers and an extra torque arm there.