Since you have two torque arms on there, thats pretty good, but a couple of things about those: Those are 'Grin v1' copies and not very good. Better than nothing certainly but if you look at the direction of force if the motor tries to spin out, your non-drive-side torque arm is set up to directly slide along your frame sideways, not hold it fast. Its a help but nothing like it could be.
For a rear torque arm on the non drive side, consider a variation on this. The photo date says this was all the way back in April of 2017. I used essentially the same small locking arm you did, but then I connected it to the disk brake bolt. By chance it was a perfect fit at the end of the reach of that little arm, which came from a Grin v2 torque arm kit. That big steel spacer at the brake mount came from my local Ace Hardware. This setup uses a lot fewer threads on the axle, too.
View attachment 153469
The drive side axle bolt has nowhere near full thread engagement, which is not so great. I would consider as a (very) partial first step switching to a nut that has no shoulder - the torque arm is a washer already. You can see I did that on my torque arm above. The drive side hose clamp is still subject to slippage for the same reason as the other one. You have a dropout available, so flipping that lower arm around puts it at an angle where you can probably use another little upper arm to clamp into, and doing that will gain you back all the threads you lost from stacking the two arms together over the axle. Ebay has torque arms that have differing lengths for their upper arms. And if the length is too long, you can add a second bolt into the channel that eliminates travel, or at the least restricts the hell out of it. The Grin v5 upper arm has a series of holes that let you do multiple positions.
