Turbo Levo chain questions

[Zunkzikzok]

Hello I have a few chain related questions,

My bike chain came off my Turbo Levo recently and it was very rusty. I’ve only occasionally pumped a bit of lubricant oil on it, which obviously wasn’t enough, so what is the best way to maintain the chain?

Also, do I need a new chainring too? The edges look a bit rusty and I read on this forum that a bad chainring will ruin any new chain i put on it, or at least wear it down quicker than normal. Do you think mine will do that or should I just upgrade it anyway?

https://imgur.com/erGyyo2

https://imgur.com/OvZHMIj
https://imgur.com/C3B6zgr
https://imgur.com/gOQhqi0

Also, I managed to mess up replacing the chain with the spare one that comes in the box. Because normal bike chains are easy to take out a few links and make the chain any size, I forgot that this type of chain requires shimano pins that are not re-usable! So i got the size of the chain wrong, ordered 3 more pins, and messed it up 3 more times. Bugger!
So, before I order more pins, should I just get a better chain anyway? And if so which one?

Thanks.

 

[bazzapage]

Same advice as any MTB: replace chain and cassette together, otherwise slipping occurs. You might need to replace chainring too. If no slipping occurs then you are OK -- a worn cassette or chainring does no harm to your chain, but the reverse is absolutely true.
Also, use a proper bike chain lube (ideally 'wet'style unless you ride in dusty conditions) not general 3-in-1 oil or WD-40. Do buy a reasonable chain (X9 grade in SRAM is OK, XT level in Shimano) - often OEM chains are low end. The slightly better ones tend to last a bit better in my experience.
Remember when buying for Levo that you aren't as worried about weight as much as a regular MTB, so no need to go top end for cassette etc. Even the most expensive chains are such because of hollow pins to save rotating weight. You don't care about such trivia!

There are two schools of thought in this chain replacement argument:
1) Replace chain frequently (<.7 stretch) and only replace cassette and chainrings when slipping occurs (perhaps every 3rd chain)
2) Run your chain, chainrings and cassette into the ground. Replace all of them together when you absolutely have to.

 

[reoutput]

Same advice as any MTB: replace chain and cassette together, otherwise slipping occurs. You might need to replace chainring too. If no slipping occurs then you are OK -- a worn cassette or chainring does no harm to your chain, but the reverse is absolutely true.
Also, use a proper bike chain lube (ideally 'wet'style unless you ride in dusty conditions) not general 3-in-1 oil or WD-40. Do buy a reasonable chain (X9 grade in SRAM is OK, XT level in Shimano) - often OEM chains are low end. The slightly better ones tend to last a bit better in my experience.
Remember when buying for Levo that you aren't as worried about weight as much as a regular MTB, so no need to go top end for cassette etc. Even the most expensive chains are such because of hollow pins to save rotating weight. You don't care about such trivia!

There are two schools of thought in this chain replacement argument:
1) Replace chain frequently (<.7 stretch) and only replace cassette and chainrings when slipping occurs (perhaps every 3rd chain)
2) Run your chain, chainrings and cassette into the ground. Replace all of them together when you absolutely have to.

Generally in scenario 2, shifting accurately becomes a problem and other weirdness pops up. I have roughly 3500 miles and have changed the chain once and had to adjust the b tension to get the shifting back to normal. I have noticed in the past week though that a weird sticky shift problems happens when I shift into a faster gear and haven’t figured out what is going on yet. Hopefully it’s just a simple adjustment.

I for one hate Shimano chains with a passion because of the stupid pins...yes they have the quick link but that sucks too. Some people claim that you should stick with what chain and drive train you have but I am currently using a KMC on my Shimano setup with no ill effects. Cheap chains will last roughly 1K or so, so don’t cut corners on your chain...unless you like buying $30 chains every 3 months.

Slipping shouldn’t occur if you change the chain before it gets blown out. The stock chain on my TurboX lasted 4 months before it was totally wasted, luckily it didn’t affect my cassette and I went with a $70 SRAM chain, but the drivetrain was SRAM, on the old bike. That chain lasted over a year!

 

[bazzapage]

Don't know what it is about stock chains but they don't seem to last.
I presume you've replaced cable inners already? Often the most overlooked problem.

 

[Nutella]

Same advice as any MTB: replace chain and cassette together, otherwise slipping occurs. You might need to replace chainring too. If no slipping occurs then you are OK -- a worn cassette or chainring does no harm to your chain, but the reverse is absolutely true.
Also, use a proper bike chain lube (ideally 'wet'style unless you ride in dusty conditions) not general 3-in-1 oil or WD-40. Do buy a reasonable chain (X9 grade in SRAM is OK, XT level in Shimano) - often OEM chains are low end. The slightly better ones tend to last a bit better in my experience.
Remember when buying for Levo that you aren't as worried about weight as much as a regular MTB, so no need to go top end for cassette etc. Even the most expensive chains are such because of hollow pins to save rotating weight. You don't care about such trivia!

There are two schools of thought in this chain replacement argument:
1) Replace chain frequently (<.7 stretch) and only replace cassette and chainrings when slipping occurs (perhaps every 3rd chain)
2) Run your chain, chainrings and cassette into the ground. Replace all of them together when you absolutely have to.

I'm firmly in school #1

And I lube my chains before every ride, it takes seconds. Wipe, drip lube sparingly while back pedaling, and you're done.

 

[Robie]

Since I discovered Park's blue plastic snap on chain cleaner. All my bikes have never run better. Just did a cleaning of two chains and they look like new. Shifting is smooth and silent. I always thought that tool,was a toy. Could not have been more wrong. Messy job , but invaluable tool for bike maintenance.