ToSeven DM Series Mid Motors

[PedalUma]

Can I use my current drivetrain if I get the mid-drive DM02 (I see it on sale for $330)?

Current drivetrain: 1x9, Microshift Advent SuperShort RD, 11-38 cassette, RaceFace Narrow-wide 30T, Microshift Advent Thumbshifter (friction mode.)

The major appeal of DM02 is that I can use nearly any voltage, for example, I can use these batteries.

@metanewbie,
Your drivetrain will work. The default chainring is 42. If you were my brother I would say to stay away from used scooter batteries because of the fire hazard. A fire is expensive. Here are some things I look for in a battery. 1) On/Off switch. 2) USB port. 3) Ease of mounting. 4) Premium cells. 5) Premium BMS chip. 6) Aluminum case. 7) Locking.

I just test rode that bike. It does not have a thumb throttle. As it is, assist level 1 is faster than any bike I have ever ridden. At a mild pedaling cadence of less than 40 there is nothing much, it is just pleasant. About 50 is very nice. Spooling from 50 up to 90 it takes off like a Porsche. The higher the cadence (up to 90) the more power delivery. It is mapped like the power curve of a sports car that loves to rev. 80 is mostly what I was doing in a middle gear. It also depleted one bar in seven miles and the motor was hand washing temp warm to the touch after the ride. I think you will want to down tune it so that you can use all five power assist levels and conserve the battery for longer rides. You can set the parameters for each level. You might try dropping each by 70%. Power level 2 was scary fast at high cadences.

Programing through the display overview:
Press Power for four seconds.
At the start up screen press and hold for four seconds Power and Up to get to the main menu.
At the main menu press and hold for four seconds Up and Down to get to the advanced menu.
The default access code is 1234.

 

[metanewbie]

@metanewbie,
Your drivetrain will work. The default chainring is 42. If you were my brother I would say to stay away from used scooter batteries because of the fire hazard. A fire is expensive. Here are some things I look for in a battery. 1) On/Off switch. 2) USB port. 3) Ease of mounting. 4) Premium cells. 5) Premium BMS chip. 6) Aluminum case. 7) Locking.

I just test rode that bike. It does not have a thumb throttle. As it is, assist level 1 is faster than any bike I have ever ridden. At a mild pedaling cadence of less than 40 there is nothing much, it is just pleasant. About 50 is very nice. Spooling from 50 up to 90 it takes off like a Porsche. The higher the cadence (up to 90) the more power delivery. It is mapped like the power curve of a sports car that loves to rev. 80 is mostly what I was doing in a middle gear. It also depleted one bar in seven miles and the motor was hand washing temp warm to the touch after the ride. I think you will want to down tune it so that you can use all the power assist levels and conserve the battery for longer rides. You can set the parameters for each level. You might try dropping each by 70%. Power level 2 was scary fast at high cadences.

Programing through the display overview:
Press Power for four seconds.
At the start up screen press and hold for four seconds Power and Up to get to the main menu.
At the main menu press and hold for four seconds Up and Down to get to the advanced menu.
The default access code is 1234.

That's a good warning on the battery. Much appreciated. Do you mean you test-road a bike with a DM02?

 

[PedalUma]

That's a good warning on the battery. Much appreciated. Do you mean you test-road a bike with a DM02?

Yes, today I test rode a Surley Straggler that I converted with a ToSeven DMO2. I finished chopping off extra wire lengths today, soldering and sealing them to clean it up, and did the through display programing. I have owned BBS02's, an HD Bafang, and a bunch of TSDZ2's of all sorts. I am also in the industry and work at an all eBike store that is a Specialized dealer among many others. This bike has as much 'feel' as a Specialized with more power delivery at cadence than any moped style bike, including Super 73 and Ride1Up. It is the fastest bike I have ever ridden as far as torque enhancement delivery from pedal power input. And that is at power level 1. Fastest.
Note: I normally chop off all connectors. I did not do that with this bike but just hid them because of firmware programing updates. Or if the owner wants a new display in 2026. The only connector I chopped was to the speed sensor because that is not programable through a connector and they never go bad.

 

[metanewbie]

Yes, today I test rode a Surley Straggler that I converted with a ToSeven DMO2. I finished chopping off extra wire lengths today, soldering and sealing them to clean it up, and did the through display programing. I have owned BBS02's, an HD Bafang, and a bunch of TSDZ2's of all sorts. I am also in the industry and work at an all eBike store that is a Specialized dealer among many others. This bike has as much 'feel' as a Specialized with more power delivery at cadence than any moped style bike, including Super 73 and Ride1Up. It is the fastest bike I have ever ridden as far as torque enhancement delivery from pedal power input. And that is at power level 1. Fastest.
Note: I normally chop off all connectors. I did not do that with this bike but just hid them because of firmware programing updates. Or if the owner wants a new display in 2026. The only connector I chopped was to the speed sensor because that is not programable through a connector and they never go bad.

So awesome! What brand/capacity/voltage batteries are you using for it? Does the ebike store have an online presence?

 

[PedalUma]

So awesome! What brand/capacity/voltage batteries are you using for it? Does the ebike store have an online presence?

Thanks for asking. The bike store is in the alternate CA and is called Petaluma Motor Wheel. It has an online presence. But only sells to locals. That is what sets the place apart, the same price as online with local pro build set-up, service, and free follow-up. I have my batteries custom made for me one at a time to my specifications using 35e Samsung cells and super premium BMS. Even one from eBay would probably be fine. Look for local shipping from a place that is on google maps that has a physical location that is real. See that it has reviews that are verified and not on a site it controls. @m@Robertson can talk batteries. He knows.

That fast steel bike today has front and rear Tour/Bikepacking racks. It is 24.9 pounds in the rear and 20.0 in the front.
It is not really about top speed as most think, before tasting the wine, it is about acceleration, raw torque at rpm. Personally I do not wish to crash at over 24 mph with all the ER bills, dental work, physical therapy time, and cognitive therapy mess and loss of work time, that is a pain. I can get anywhere at 26 kph and still be happy everyday. I just rode it to 27.x mph (44.3+k) on a quarter mile. I was spinning out. It is not about the top, it is how you get there. On the same track my Vado will do 42 max. But it is more sedate even in level 5 when I was in level 2 on the eStraggler.

 

[Ken Shopken]

Can I use my current drivetrain if I get the mid-drive DM02 (I see it on sale for $330)?

Current drivetrain: 1x9, Microshift Advent SuperShort RD, 11-38 cassette, RaceFace Narrow-wide 30T, Microshift Advent Thumbshifter (friction mode.)

The major appeal of DM02 is that I can use nearly any voltage, for example, I can use these batteries.

I have a 1x11 Sram on a DM01 at 60v, but installed an ebike rated chain on it and a shift sensor. The drivetrain is holding up well for all but my cassette, which has loosening rivets. (soon to be replaced with a solid unit) I think I damaged the cassette by riding the bike when it was first assembled on its full sport assist mode and without an initial shift sensor to cut loads. I was very careful when shifting, but with so much power on tap, combined with programming that has too much trailing assist / power cut takes too long, (even on the 200ms minimal setting) it is easy to misjudge when power is still being applied.

I should have bought the DM02 as the DM01 is overkill for most of my riding on it. and spends its time in eco modes well under 500w so it can be ridden as an actual bicycle assist.

I plan on building a few more bikes, and will use the DM02 and maybe 72v and will install a shift sensor from the start.

 

[Ken Shopken]

I have a 1x11 Sram on a DM01 at 60v, but installed an ebike rated chain on it and a shift sensor. The drivetrain is holding up well for all but my cassette, which has loosening rivets. (soon to be replaced with a solid unit) I think I damaged the cassette by riding the bike when it was first assembled on its full sport assist mode and without an initial shift sensor to cut loads. I was very careful when shifting, but with so much power on tap, combined with programming that has too much trailing assist / power cut takes too long, (even on the 200ms minimal setting) it is easy to misjudge when power is still being applied.

I should have bought the DM02 as the DM01 is overkill for most of my riding on it. and spends its time in eco modes well under 500w so it can be ridden as an actual bicycle assist.

I plan on building a few more bikes, and will use the DM02 and maybe 72v and will install a shift sensor from the start.

I will buy a microshift solid rear cassette..