Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[2wheelsgood]

Just spent an hour this morning with the bike tool.

Whoever set this bike up did a poor job and I have fixed quite a few issues already. Some bolts had not even been tightened correctly. handlebar roll was comically too far forward for me, I have adjusted this by quite a large amount and also adjusted gear lever, power control and brakes and the bike feels a LOT better just by this change.

The seat was also set weird and the spacing and pitch is now much more comfortable. Still not sure on the saddle and I suspect I will have to change it at some point but it certainly feels better than yesterday.

A rattle was found to be the rear reflector set to touch the saddle and it was bouncing around on rough road.

Gears still out and need adjusting but that is outside my skillset, I will have to visit the bike shop.

Feeling much happier about the bike this morning though.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Just spent an hour this morning with the bike tool.

Whoever set this bike up did a poor job and I have fixed quite a few issues already. Some bolts had not even been tightened correctly. handlebar roll was comically too far forward for me, I have adjusted this by quite a large amount and also adjusted gear lever, power control and brakes and the bike feels a LOT better just by this change.

The seat was also set weird and the spacing and pitch is now much more comfortable. Still not sure on the saddle and I suspect I will have to change it at some point but it certainly feels better than yesterday.

A rattle was found to be the rear reflector set to touch the saddle and it was bouncing around on rough road.

Gears still out and need adjusting but that is outside my skillset, I will have to visit the bike shop.

Feeling much happier about the bike this morning though.

An inadequate bike store, perhaps?

 

[2wheelsgood]

An inadequate bike store, perhaps?

Sadly I have yet to find a good one in my area. I could tell you some horror stories there for sure.

There are a few more bike maintenance businesses in the area I have yet to try out so I should be able to find someone good at some point.

Plastic dork disk is also a source of a slight rattle I have just discovered. I don't have a cassette tool so might try and just cut it off with snips later.

 

[GAJ]

Just spent an hour this morning with the bike tool.

Whoever set this bike up did a poor job and I have fixed quite a few issues already. Some bolts had not even been tightened correctly. handlebar roll was comically too far forward for me, I have adjusted this by quite a large amount and also adjusted gear lever, power control and brakes and the bike feels a LOT better just by this change.

The seat was also set weird and the spacing and pitch is now much more comfortable. Still not sure on the saddle and I suspect I will have to change it at some point but it certainly feels better than yesterday.

A rattle was found to be the rear reflector set to touch the saddle and it was bouncing around on rough road.

Gears still out and need adjusting but that is outside my skillset, I will have to visit the bike shop.

Feeling much happier about the bike this morning though.

Glad to hear it; I also found the saddle hurt my butt the first few rides but find it very comfy now.

I came at this bike from a completely different direction than you so that might have something to do with it.

I have NEVER had a bike lighter than 32lbs so finding one with electric assist at the same weight but far far more modern in every way even as an analog bike was a revelation.

It sounds like you might be younger and more fit than when I got mine at age 64 as you owned a 22lb bicycle and could ride it quite fast so a letdown with an EU assist bike of any kind was a bit to be expected to be honest.

Stefan is right, here in the US I really can't go much faster than 21mph with full assist on flat ground, (though a fitter person might do), so likely you aren't any slower than me on the flats (likely much faster), same goes for the hills.

It sounds like you just might be too fit/young to fully appreciate a modern "lightweight" assist e'bike as for us old slow farts with no light bike experience they are indeed a marvel and we can pedal further and higher and faster than ever.

Like being younger.

Terrible that your bike was put together by a monkey; mine was very well fettled thank goodness as I'm hopeless with a spanner.

 

[2wheelsgood]

Well, I have just had my first revelation with the bike.

As I mentioned before I do not find it that useful on the flat but one of my regular journeys is to the gym which I did this afternoon and there are 2 quite meaty hills on the way back. Usually, I just get into grind mode and start pumping my legs hard to get up. Just keeping the bike in sport mode I absolutely crushed the hills with ease no need to go to turbo even.

The bike is getting better every time I ride it so as people have said it needs some calibrating from both bike and rider.

 

[GAJ]

Well, I have just had my first revelation with the bike.

As I mentioned before I do not find it that useful on the flat but one of my regular journeys is to the gym which I did this afternoon and there are 2 quite meaty hills on the way back. Usually, I just get into grind mode and start pumping my legs hard to get up. Just keeping the bike in sport mode I absolutely crushed the hills with ease no need to go to turbo even.

The bike is getting better every time I ride it so as people have said it needs some calibrating from both bike and rider.

I had gotten to the point on my analog bike that I avoided hills entirely.

Actually bought an inclinometer for my e'bike to tackle even 15 percent grades once in a while.

 

[BioWheel]

Well, I have just had my first revelation with the bike.

As I mentioned before I do not find it that useful on the flat but one of my regular journeys is to the gym which I did this afternoon and there are 2 quite meaty hills on the way back. Usually, I just get into grind mode and start pumping my legs hard to get up. Just keeping the bike in sport mode I absolutely crushed the hills with ease no need to go to turbo even.

The bike is getting better every time I ride it so as people have said it needs some calibrating from both bike and rider.

It's just an awesome machine and it will grow on you. There's not much it can't do. Even some light mountain biking. It's not fragile. With 42's probably could be a mountain bike if you can handle the rough. and Sry to hear about the poor build. at specy you pay premium $$ to not have that experience.

 

[2wheelsgood]

Found a new game to play on the bike which will drive me nuts I am sure.

The master mind display on the 5.0 has km/h front and centre and difficult to ignore. I have a 700M very flat, smooth and quiet road 30 secs from my house and I cannot help trying to see what number I can push it too.

Got 44km/h last night although there was a bit of a headwind. Better conditions and a more aerodynamic tuck should hopefully push that a bit higher.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Got 44km/h last night although there was a bit of a headwind. Better conditions and a more aerodynamic tuck should hopefully push that a bit higher.

Why would you even need an e-bike?

 

[2wheelsgood]

Why would you even need an e-bike?

For the hills Stefan, always the damned hills

That and wanting a new toy

 

[Stefan Mikes]

For the hills Stefan, always the damned hills

That and wanting a new toy

I've always said Vado SL was for healthy people! (I'm not but still ride it!)

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Three Years and Five Days Into The Ownership of My Fearless

March 13th, 2021: 'I won't buy this e-bike although I would like to...' (On the showroom floor, Specialized Warsaw).

June 12th, 2021. A Vado SL 4.0 size L demo ride.

June 13th, 2021: Establishing this very thread on EBR Fora

June 23rd, 2021: Leaving Specialized Warsaw for home

June 23rd, 2021: New Bike Day

June 18th, 2023. Finishing Mazovian Gravel race, 263 km spread over two days.

June 15th, 2024. On Mazovian Gravel 120 race.

Odometer
15,061.6 km.

Did anything break on my Vado SL?
Actually, a single vital part broke. The drive side crankarm wore out because of multiple hits the crankarm got during multiple crashes The part was easily obtainable and replaceable. However, I also need to mention the RackTime rear rack, which is very weak and shall not be overloaded (or it will eventually bend, dragging the rear mudguard off-axis).

Would I buy another model?
When I was buying my Vado SL 4.0 EQ, I thought it would be my everyday e-bike, serving purposes such as grocery shopping or recreational rides. However, I have got attracted to gravel cycling since 2022. I also found the SL EQ was not a pack-mule Over the time, I delegated the heavy duty tasks to my Vado 6.0, while started gradually converting my Fearless into a purely recreational and sports gravel e-bike. If I had known my true needs back in 2021, I would have probably gone with a Vado SL 4.0 non-EQ. Or, a Vado SL 5.0 non-EQ but only if I found the latter in a beautiful colour

My Fearless has become a unique e-bike. Yes, I can fit SKS mudguards or an Ortlieb rear rack whenever I want.

I wish you all the same satisfaction from riding your Vado SLs as I am getting from spending my ride days on my Fearless!

 

[mfgrep]

I've always said Vado SL was for healthy people! (I'm not but still ride it!)

This is absolutely true. I am 53 years old and relatively healthy & thin, however, I am no athlete by any stretch. I ride my SL either off or in ECO 90% of the time. I do occasionally use SPORT to assist me on the hills. I very rarely use TURBO.
It has been well established that the SL is not a powerful e-bike. That said...I am often astonished at the assist level which can be provided by the SL even with its small motor. I don't think that some riders are fully aware of how to use the gears and motor on a mid-drive bicycle successfully. There has always been an 'art' to shifting properly (which I enjoy). There is even more 'art' with these low(er) power mid-drive bikes.....where proper gearing, appropriate cadence, and motor assist can provide astonishing results. A cyclist on an SL who wishes to tackle hills can do so with great assist if desired.....but appropriate gearing and cadence are critical to obtaining maximum results.
The other day I was tackling a steep grade and used TURBO for the last 1/2 of the run. Geared down into 2nd or 3rd gear....in TURBO....and keeping a nice/easy cadence really powered me through. Yes it requires some effort(s) and the SL will not power you up all on its own.....but the SL really provide a surprising level of assist once you get to understand the nuances/art of the shift/cadence/motor assist.
The alternative to ignoring this necessary correlation between motor power/gearing/cadence is to simply use a powerful and heavy bicycle. This is certainly an option, however, this option forces the cyclist to lose the light/nimble and analog nature of the SL in favor of a big, heavy, and powerful bike that can simply power through a cyclists lack of skill(s).
I did buy a full power Vado and it is great for some things.....but it hasn't taken the place of my beloved SL. I love the SL.

 

[Marquezdl]

I have had my Turbo Vado SL 4.0 for 6 months now.
here are my thoughts:
following Stefan’s example I have removed the fenders and the rear light. I have a couple of attachable rear LED lights.
I have installed Ergon cork grips and they help with the numb hands that I suffer from on longer rides.
When I am in the states again I will order another Paschier bamboo handlebar. I had one on the Turbo Vado that was stolen and they really improved my comfort level over bumps and potholes.
I have not yet purchased the range extender battery but I will be in the next few months. The range is just a little bit less than I want/need without the extender.
I live at 5300 feet asl. The climb up to my apartment includes 2 short but very steep pitches of 25%. On the old Turbo Vado 4.0 I could get up in sport mode, lowest gear.
Due mostly (I think) to the much lower torque output of the Turbo Vado 4.0 SL motor (35nm vs 70nm). I find that I have to drop into turbo mode on the SL to conquer those 2 pitches.
still, not bad for 74 year knees!
my plan is to ditch the 40t cw for a 36. I never ride more than 25 kph on the flat, and the lower gears would give me a margin on the hills. Also, there is a 30% pitch hill that I really want to climb near here. Its a bitch just walking up it but the 36 tooth cw should make it doable!
LOVE THIS BIKE!!!
Actually I am almost glad my turbo vado 4.0 was stolen. I enjoy riding the SL so much more!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

but appropriate gearing and cadence are critical to obtaining maximum results.

You've nailed it! The SL 1.1 motor is the most efficient at the cadence between 80 and 90. Pedalling as fast makes the motor lively and strong. On contrary, pedalling at a low cadence makes the motor weak and inefficient.

my plan is to ditch the 40t cw for a 36. I never ride more than 25 kph on the flat, and the lower gears would give me a margin on the hills. Also, there is a 30% pitch hill that I really want to climb near here. Its a bitch just walking up it but the 36 tooth cw should make it doable!

Going with the 36T chainring sounds like a plan. However, you could consider going even more extreme, that is, installing a 32T chainring, which is the smallest 104 BCD ring of them all, used on mountain bikes/e-bikes such as Levo SL. I went totally extreme with that by installing not only the 32T ring but also replacing the drivetrain with Shimano M5100 that has a 11-speed 11-51T cassette. That conversion gave me the lowest gearing of 18 gear-inches, which is purely in the MTB domain. (I use a 116 link chain in this configuration).

The consequence is I can climb anything but my max speed at favourable conditions is 32 km/h before I max out on the cadence. I do not care! The low gearing forces me to pedal at a higher cadence, which makes the motor work efficiently, and I am less tired on long rides as I do not need to pedal hard only fast.

When the chain gets worn, I'm going back to a 36T chainring but keep the 11-51T cassette and M5100 derailleur/shifter.

I am 53 years old and relatively healthy & thin, however, I am no athlete by any stretch. I ride my SL either off or in ECO 90% of the time. I do occasionally use SPORT to assist me on the hills. I very rarely use TURBO.

Vado SL satisfies my needs in higher assistance modes. For solo rides, 55/55% (or 30/100%) assistance gives me a long range at a moderate speed. For group rides (assuming my Fearless is in the derestricted state):

• 60/60% is for riding together with normally healthy people (who are not 'snails')
• 80/80% is for riding with athletes in the gravel domain...
• But 100/100% turned out to be not enough to catch up with 'horses' riding asphalt on their gravel bikes, even with a bigger chainring

Bear in mind my bad legs can only provide some 80 W average! High assistance requires multiple Range Extenders for long rides, and I did not hesitate to buy one after another until it was still practical

Riding with the 'snails' is the most horrifying for me. I am the best to ride with them with the assistance OFF but riding without any assistance makes me exhausted...

 

[BioWheel]

Three Years and Five Days Into The Ownership of My Fearless
View attachment 178134
March 13th, 2021: 'I won't buy this e-bike although I would like to...' (On the showroom floor, Specialized Warsaw).

View attachment 178136
June 12th, 2021. A Vado SL 4.0 size L demo ride.

View attachment 178137
June 13th, 2021: Establishing this very thread on EBR Fora

View attachment 178138
June 23rd, 2021: Leaving Specialized Warsaw for home

View attachment 178139
June 23rd, 2021: New Bike Day

View attachment 178140
June 18th, 2023. Finishing Mazovian Gravel race, 263 km spread over two days.

View attachment 178142
June 15th, 2024. On Mazovian Gravel 120 race.

Odometer
15,061.6 km.

Did anything break on my Vado SL?
Actually, a single vital part broke. The drive side crankarm wore out because of multiple hits the crankarm got during multiple crashes The part was easily obtainable and replaceable. However, I also need to mention the RackTime rear rack, which is very weak and shall not be overloaded (or it will eventually bend, dragging the rear mudguard off-axis).

Would I buy another model?
When I was buying my Vado SL 4.0 EQ, I thought it would be my everyday e-bike, serving purposes such as grocery shopping or recreational rides. However, I have got attracted to gravel cycling since 2022. I also found the SL EQ was not a pack-mule Over the time, I delegated the heavy duty tasks to my Vado 6.0, while started gradually converting my Fearless into a purely recreational and sports gravel e-bike. If I had known my true needs back in 2021, I would have probably gone with a Vado SL 4.0 non-EQ. Or, a Vado SL 5.0 non-EQ but only if I found the latter in a beautiful colour

View attachment 178143
My Fearless has become a unique e-bike. Yes, I can fit SKS mudguards or an Ortlieb rear rack whenever I want.

I wish you all the same satisfaction from riding your Vado SLs as I am getting from spending my ride days on my Fearless!

This is absolutely true. I am 53 years old and relatively healthy & thin, however, I am no athlete by any stretch. I ride my SL either off or in ECO 90% of the time. I do occasionally use SPORT to assist me on the hills. I very rarely use TURBO.
It has been well established that the SL is not a powerful e-bike. That said...I am often astonished at the assist level which can be provided by the SL even with its small motor. I don't think that some riders are fully aware of how to use the gears and motor on a mid-drive bicycle successfully. There has always been an 'art' to shifting properly (which I enjoy). There is even more 'art' with these low(er) power mid-drive bikes.....where proper gearing, appropriate cadence, and motor assist can provide astonishing results. A cyclist on an SL who wishes to tackle hills can do so with great assist if desired.....but appropriate gearing and cadence are critical to obtaining maximum results.
The other day I was tackling a steep grade and used TURBO for the last 1/2 of the run. Geared down into 2nd or 3rd gear....in TURBO....and keeping a nice/easy cadence really powered me through. Yes it requires some effort(s) and the SL will not power you up all on its own.....but the SL really provide a surprising level of assist once you get to understand the nuances/art of the shift/cadence/motor assist.
The alternative to ignoring this necessary correlation between motor power/gearing/cadence is to simply use a powerful and heavy bicycle. This is certainly an option, however, this option forces the cyclist to lose the light/nimble and analog nature of the SL in favor of a big, heavy, and powerful bike that can simply power through a cyclists lack of skill(s).
I did buy a full power Vado and it is great for some things.....but it hasn't taken the place of my beloved SL. I love the SL.

so true mfgrep - i use the bike same way and it's perfect

You've nailed it! The SL 1.1 motor is the most efficient at the cadence between 80 and 90. Pedalling as fast makes the motor lively and strong. On contrary, pedalling at a low cadence makes the motor weak and inefficient.


Going with the 36T chainring sounds like a plan. However, you could consider going even more extreme, that is, installing a 32T chainring, which is the smallest 104 BCD ring of them all, used on mountain bikes/e-bikes such as Levo SL. I went totally extreme with that by installing not only the 32T ring but also replacing the drivetrain with Shimano M5100 that has a 11-speed 11-51T cassette. That conversion gave me the lowest gearing of 18 gear-inches, which is purely in the MTB domain. (I use a 116 link chain in this configuration).

The consequence is I can climb anything but my max speed at favourable conditions is 32 km/h before I max out on the cadence. I do not care! The low gearing forces me to pedal at a higher cadence, which makes the motor work efficiently, and I am less tired on long rides as I do not need to pedal hard only fast.

When the chain gets worn, I'm going back to a 36T chainring but keep the 11-51T cassette and M5100 derailleur/shifter.


Vado SL satisfies my needs in higher assistance modes. For solo rides, 55/55% (or 30/100%) assistance gives me a long range at a moderate speed. For group rides (assuming my Fearless is in the derestricted state):

• 60/60% is for riding together with normally healthy people (who are not 'snails')
• 80/80% is for riding with athletes in the gravel domain...
• But 100/100% turned out to be not enough to catch up with 'horses' riding asphalt on their gravel bikes, even with a bigger chainring

Bear in mind my bad legs can only provide some 80 W average! High assistance requires multiple Range Extenders for long rides, and I did not hesitate to buy one after another until it was still practical

Riding with the 'snails' is the most horrifying for me. I am the best to ride with them with the assistance OFF but riding without any assistance makes me exhausted...

you averaged 100w on your last 70+ mile ride - I'm calling you out

 

[Stefan Mikes]

you averaged 100w on your last 70+ mile ride - I'm calling you out

My Strava tells me otherwise Karl but nevermind

 

[mogulman]

I'm on almost 2.5 years with my Turbo Vado SL 5.0. I live in the mountains of Colorado (in a valley) at 6200ft. So it's uphill (1000-2500ft) from my house almost everywhere. Upgrades I've done:

• Shimano Clip-less Pedals
• SQ Labs Innerbarends
• Ergon Grips
• Mirrycle Mirror
• Range Extender (like the comfort of having extra juice)
• Tufo Thundero 44 tires
• Specialized Power Pro Mirror Saddle
• Kinekt XR Seatpost with hold drilled for rear light
• Burrito bag on front
• Aluminum front light bracket to replace broken plastic bracket and fit above bag
• SRAM AXS Derailleur
• Garmin Edge 840

Still really love this bike. I have an old Cannondale Quick Carbon 2 (non-ebike) that I still have. I've ridden it a few times this year, but wondering if I should just sell it.

I originally got the Vado after I broke my Pelvis (MTBing) in 2020 and was having a tough time on hills. Since then, I broke my ankle at the end of 2022 and used the bike last year recovering motion in my ankle. After my last surgery in Oct.2023, been trying to get my cadence up. Last summer I could usually only pedal in the low 70s. This summer focusing on trying to stay above 80. I've been mostly riding in Sport mode when I'm by myself. When I'm with other people I use Microtune to try and stay (or slow down) with people. With my current setup I'm pretty good to 30 miles or so. Haven't really done a longer ride this summer yet. I have a 2020 Giant Reign e+1 Pro that I ride on the dirt out here. I've been trying to ride 4 days/week (Vado and Giant) and do some river kayaking 1-2 days/week.

Not sure if there is anything I'd change on this bike. Maybe slightly more power and more battery built-in. Better app! with the ability to do firmware updates!

 

[2wheelsgood]

Noticed today that my assistance turns off at 28kph rather than the expected 25kph. Tried it a few times and I can sit at 27 and still hear the motor and then immediately it tips over to 28 it cuts out. Is this just Specialized factoring in some tolerance?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Noticed today that my assistance turns off at 28kph rather than the expected 25kph. Tried it a few times and I can sit at 27 and still hear the motor and then immediately it tips over to 28 it cuts out. Is this just Specialized factoring in some tolerance?

I guess SL motors are programmed for a kind of "soft cut-off", so the transition between assisted vs unassisted is barely noticeable. As the EU/UK law requires the assistance "should be gradually reduced to become zero at 25 km/h", the actual motor power delivered in the transition zone must be very low anyway (despite the audible motor buzz). I would not worry about it were I you My Vado SL actually cuts of at some 26 km/h so yes, it could be the tolerance. What tyre width are you using?