That is the safe position for the mirror (especially, the Mirrycle). It also reduces the overall e-bike width. I am not sure how I could help you. My arm is never obscuring the mirror. When I want to give the mirror a peek, I need to look down but again I also look downwards when I want to see my Wahoo. Are you using Mirrycle? Installed at 45 degrees downwards?
Yeah Mirrycle. Maybe just different body geometry. BTW, not sure why you say it is the safest position? Mirrycle has it the other way on their web-site.
Oh wait, you have your mirror inwards also. I'll try that. I just had mine in the down position.
You can hardly smash the glass or break the reinforced plastic parts on most of crashes (or even if the e-bike occasionally falls itself by incident).
Now you are talking!
Now, your e-bike will get as narrow as it can ever be!I have same mirror and keep mine facing downward as well. It is out of the way...easy to become accustomed to...and highly effective. You'll get used to it too.
) then it was straightened by a mechanic and then I think it became somewhat warped Nice Table Stefan!
Stefan your SL came with Shimano brakes right? Or just Shimano drivetrain and Tektro brakes?Vado SL Brake Pads and Rotors
I'm writing this for the future reference, so anybody who wants to replace their brake pads on a Vado SL can use the Search function.
Brake pads for Tektro HD-R510 or HD-R290 Hydraulic Disk Brakes
I chose the SwissStop brake pads.
Brake Rotors
Any 160 mm diameter, Centerlock mounted rotor would do. (There will be a word of warning, though).
The Centerlock rotor on Vado SL is removed by inserting a standard cassette wrench and simply unscrewing the lock-ring. Please do not damage or lose the lockring!
When you are buying the new Centerlock rotor, pay attention to buy the one with the "lock-ring with internal serrations" (I bought one with external serrations). The externally grooved lock-ring requires a wrench you probably do not own, and that setup is used for 15 mm thru-axles. The internally grooved lock-ring is for 12 mm axles.
Nothing went wrong in my case as I simply re-used the old lock-ring and easily tightened it with the cassette wrench.
Note: The only reason to replace the rotor in my case was the fact the rotor had got bent (I can bet it happened on a crash
This
I only ride my Vado SL on the flats. The stats read the front brake pads lasted for over 5,000 km (3,000 mi) or 14 months. There's still life in the rear brake pads. Interestingly, the front brake pads got worn unevenly, one of them getting worn out while the other still had a little of life left. As I center the brake calipers post the brake maintenance, it might either indicate the brake pistons worked unevenly or the rotor was indeed bent (I will never understand hydraulic disk brakes in full!)
Normally, rotors are long living creatures! What pads do you have for the replacement?
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I only ride my Vado SL on the flats. The stats read the front brake pads lasted for over 5,000 km (3,000 mi) or 14 months. There's still life in the rear brake pads. Interestingly, the front brake pads got worn unevenly, one of them getting worn out while the other still having a little of life left. As I center the brake calipers post the brake maintenance, it might either indicate the brake pistons worked unevenly or the rotor was indeed bent (I will never understand hydraulic disk brakes in full!)
Normally, rotors are long living creatures! What pads do you have for the replacement?
I am not 100% sure about the Shimano brake pads compatibility there. I would have a visual check on a selected model before buying!
It actually was my headache, and that's why I went in a big bicycle store for an advice!
Which reminds me the long story of my "big" Vado brakes. My model had TRP Zurich e-bike brakes (not made anymore). I was following blindly the prescribed brake pad type (TRP Q20.11) for years, often importing a bigger number of them from Germany (these pads are very expensive!) Once, the rear brake assembly completely broke. I have found TRP Slate brakes would be compatible for the replacement (TRP makes excellent brakes, it is Tektro Racing Products). By chance, I could buy a complete TRP Slate rear brake assembly for dimes! As my brother was installing the brake, he reached to one of his drawers and produced a set of Shimano brake pads he used on his e-MTB. Those had exactly the same format as the TRP brake pads!But they did have F10RS. After some initial scepticism I checked the Tektro website and found that F10RS are the "TRP" versions of the pads that go with some of their higher end calipers. They have exactly the same form factor and the descriptions of F10RS & F10BS on the TRP & Tektro sites, respectively, are virtually identical from what I could see.
The F10RS must be "better" though because the backing plate is painted "red"
The issue with Tektro F10BS is these are hardly available.
They seem readily available on Amazon. £15 for 2 sets. Bought my last couple of sets there - used a number of other brands in the past but these seem to have great stopping power and last longer plus price is good.
I also just recently bought a spare two sets off Amazon uk. I am interested in trying out the SwissStops too tho.
i’m no fan of rim brakes (horrible if it’s wet!!) but the braking area is distributed over a much much larger surface (nearly the entire circumference x 1cm) compared to a rotor, so it doesn’t see the same stresses at all.
