Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

I have been noticing a very annoying rattle in the last week that reveals itself at around 28-30km/h whilst pedalling. I am terrible at locating noises but it seems to be somewhere around the frame area. If I stop pedalling then it seems to disappear. When I switch off the motor it is still there.

This is going to drive me nuts - anybody got any ideas or experienced something that sounds similar?
 
I have been noticing a very annoying rattle in the last week that reveals itself at around 28-30km/h whilst pedalling. I am terrible at locating noises but it seems to be somewhere around the frame area. If I stop pedalling then it seems to disappear. When I switch off the motor it is still there.

This is going to drive me nuts - anybody got any ideas or experienced something that sounds similar?
does it happen on more than one gear? is your chain clean? how old is your chain? is the issue getting worse? i hate any noise as well but at least it's there with motor on or off - that's a bit more promising to fix imo
 
I have been noticing a very annoying rattle in the last week that reveals itself at around 28-30km/h whilst pedalling. I am terrible at locating noises but it seems to be somewhere around the frame area. If I stop pedalling then it seems to disappear. When I switch off the motor it is still there.

This is going to drive me nuts - anybody got any ideas or experienced something that sounds similar?
I had this recently on my t SL and couldn't figure it out for a long time. It ended up being wires rattling under my TCU inside my top tube. I removed the TCU and wires then used electrical tape to secure wires and wire ends. Now silent. It doesn't take much inside the frame tubing to reverberate loudly.
 
does it happen on more than one gear? is your chain clean? how old is your chain? is the issue getting worse? i hate any noise as well but at least it's there with motor on or off - that's a bit more promising to fix imo
Just did a bit more investigating.

I don't have the correct tool to look in the TCU but the noise definitely stops when I stop pedalling so I guess it must be the group set area that is at fault. Bike is only 5 weeks old so chain should be good and it only had a tune up 3 weeks ago at the bike shop.

I will have a tap around the area this week sometime.
 
DMRs look adequate. Only have a look at the price of Crankbrother Stamp 1 Large first. The 1's are made of composite, are less expensive than 3's yet still adequate. There is a safe choice available: RaceFace 'Ride' pedals. The latter have traction areas instead of pins, are OK for regular shoes, and would not hurt your legs! (Traction pin pedals are notorious of hurting shins and calves if the rider has become less careful!)

Got the Crankbrothers Stamp 1s fitted today and I am really pleased with them, so much better than the stock pedals. I got the small and they are perfect size for me. - prefer the fact that they are composite so they shouldn't chip so bad and look scruffy after 6 months.

Thanks Stefan for the recommendation!
 
Got the Crankbrothers Stamp 1s fitted today and I am really pleased with them, so much better than the stock pedals. I got the small and they are perfect size for me. - prefer the fact that they are composite so they shouldn't chip so bad and look scruffy after 6 months.

Thanks Stefan for the recommendation!
When I was riding a rental e-bike in Ireland last week, I thought I would love replacing the pedals... Now I can understand the difference between proper and cheap platform pedals!
 
Got the Crankbrothers Stamp 1s fitted today and I am really pleased with them, so much better than the stock pedals. I got the small and they are perfect size for me. - prefer the fact that they are composite so they shouldn't chip so bad and look scruffy after 6 months.

Thanks Stefan for the recommendation!
My Vado SL (bought over a year ago) and my Vado (bought this summer) both had the same big thick flat sandpaper pedals.
I saw a set of new Stamp 7 pedals advertised on FB Marketplace for $70 and I've loved them.
More recently....but still on FB Marketplace....there apparently is an Ecuadorian MTB rider that is endorsed by CrankBrothers and he apparently gets freebies. He sends those freebies to KC and his dad (I'm guessing here) is selling Stamp 7's for $50 each. So I bought another set of Stamp 7's for $50 for the Vado too.
Yes the Stamp 7's are way over-kill for my road use(s).....but they are SO much better than the Spesh flats. I'm happy to have them and have grown fond of them.
If these 'deals' on the Stamp 7's were not available I would definitely have purchased the Stamp 1's.

For what its worth.....after many miles....I finally lowered the pegs on the Stamp pedals as low as they go. I find them to be grippy enough but now more easily allow me to readjust my feet when riding. YMMV.
 
Has anyone replaced the charging port cover on Turbo Vado SL? The spring mechanism on mine has stopped working, the flap just flaps at the moment! The hinge bar became displaced and I think the end of the spring came out of its notch or from wherever it’s supposed to be fixed. I can either remove the current cover and try to repair this or order a new part which I have found online. I’m just a little concerned that when I remove the four bolts that hold the the port cover in place and remove the part that there may be small rubber gaskets or other parts that move such that it will be difficult to replace. Also the bolt heads are a rather unusual, what tool fits them?
 

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Has anyone replaced the charging port cover on Turbo Vado SL? The spring mechanism on mine has stopped working, the flap just flaps at the moment! The hinge bar became displaced and I think the end of the spring came out of its notch or from wherever it’s supposed to be fixed. I can either remove the current cover and try to repair this or order a new part which I have found online. I’m just a little concerned that when I remove the four bolts that hold the the port cover in place and remove the part that there may be small rubber gaskets or other parts that move such that it will be difficult to replace. Also the bolt heads are a rather unusual, what tool fits them?
I’ve had to do so twice. The part is inexpensive and built to stay that way. The screws are tiny two mm torx for which it is difficult to find a decent tool. Most strip the screws or themselves. The first time it happened, I had my LBS fix it. The second time I tried myself but met the crappy torx wrench issue and had to go to the shop anyway. I subsequently bought a better quality tool.

The port cover design is poor, easily strained by the charge or RE cables. When you order the replacement I suggest getting two as you will need it again and you won’t have to wait for a replacement if luck makes it challenging to obtain in the future.
 
I’ve had to do so twice. The part is inexpensive and built to stay that way. The screws are tiny two mm torx for which it is difficult to find a decent tool. Most strip the screws or themselves. The first time it happened, I had my LBS fix it. The second time I tried myself but met the crappy torx wrench issue and had to go to the shop anyway. I subsequently bought a better quality tool.

The port cover design is poor, easily strained by the charge or RE cables. When you order the replacement I suggest getting two as you will need it again and you won’t have to wait for a replacement if luck makes it challenging to obtain in the future.
Thanks, so if I undo the four screws and lift off the broken part, will the new cover just fit in place, with nothing to be careful not to displace?
 
For normal rides, like not when I need to carry groceries etc for which I use panniers, I much prefer a handlebar bag then trunk bag. This KLICKFix one is great, very roomy I can carry coats spare gloves, sandwiches and so on. And the top pocket is ideal for phone and back up power bank.

View attachment 175829
Hello, my first visit to this forum I was looking for threads on bags suitable for Vado handlebars with the screen being right there in the middle. Bags that mount with a clip around the bars at the riser won't work. Could you post a picture of the bag mount from the rider's view to show how it mounts? I'm thinking a bag with a sleeve for my phone would put it right where I need it.
 
Hello, my first visit to this forum I was looking for threads on bags suitable for Vado handlebars with the screen being right there in the middle. Bags that mount with a clip around the bars at the riser won't work. Could you post a picture of the bag mount from the rider's view to show how it mounts? I'm thinking a bag with a sleeve for my phone would put it right where I need it.
Hey, Burro, you own a Vado, not a Vado SL! A wrong thread? :)
 
I noticed recently a whistling noise when pedaling my Vado Sl 4.0. No noise when coasting and the noise occurs with the motor on or off. The noise does not seem to
increase with pedal speed. I've attached a link to a video in hopes that someone can identify the noise. I did clean and lube the chain and the noise is the same. The noise seems to be where the crank meets the motor housing. Any ideas would be appreciated.


Thanks,
Marty
 
So. I've always felt pretty confident riding Vader, my 5.0 SL. Felt like I could keep up with other riders. My son, 22 year old, got an older Felt carbon road bike 10x2 gearing and we decided to do a ride together. He isn't a bike rider, but is wanting to start getting into it. He is pretty fit.

We rode about 20 miles with about 500 feet of ascent over the course. Basically he was blowing me away. I tried keeping up with him and setting microtune. 70, 80, 90,100 percent.

I was peddling at about 80-85 rpm cadence almost the entire time. I could catch him on bigger hills. All the other times I had to keep my power at 90-100% in order to keep up with him. I think he was consistently riding at 19mph and higher on the flats.

Do I just relegate myself to ”Thats just the way it is!". Or maybe I'm too weak to ride with fit bike riders on a road bike? Or maybe I need a full ebike to keep up with them?

I mostly ride alone or with some people who aren't in great shape, so it's not a big deal. Just felt bad that I couldn't keep up.

Just wondering what other people's experience is with riding a Vado SL and trying to keep up with fit road bike riders? Is it partially due to aerodynamics too?
My new SL is coming this week, but I get passed by roadies on my 500W, 65 Nm hub-drive all the time on flats and descents. So no expectation that the SL with half the power and torque will be any different.

Understand your situation and goals are very different from mine. I've made my peace with it at 76:
1. Usually ride alone and am seldom in a hurry.
2. Prefer to ride at lowest assist whenever possible, and my level 1 of 9 is pretty low.
3. Keep repeating to myself that my Tour de France days are over, and that there will always be those lesser and greater than myself.

Also keep getting passed by school kids idly ghost-pedaling RadRovers. That's the part that kinda hurts.
 
My new SL is coming this week, but I get passed by roadies on my 500W, 65 Nm hub-drive all the time on flats and descents. So no expectation that the SL with half the power and torque will be any different.

Understand your situation and goals are very different from mine. I've made my peace with it at 76:
1. Usually ride alone and am seldom in a hurry.
2. Prefer to ride at lowest assist whenever possible, and my level 1 of 9 is pretty low.
3. Keep repeating to myself that my Tour de France days are over, and that there will always be those lesser and greater than myself.

Also keep getting passed by school kids idly ghost-pedaling RadRovers. That's the part that kinda hurts.
My regular route today: at point of steepest incline I was in Sport on my SL and a young girl on an old Schwinn cruiser pulled out of a driveway in front of me and easily climbed that hill. She was probably 12 years old. It was immasculating.
 
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