Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

Stefan Mikes said:
+6 degrees could be good for you!
Sorry to hear about your neck ache!

I think you will be delighted with the extra range the RE gives. What is your primary assistance setting for long range rides?
Click to expand...
I usually don't use the assistance on flat road (I just have to get on the handle bar extensions to render the assistance useless as I go above 25km/h quite easily), maybe eco/sport mode with a strong headwind and a need to hurry. I tend to mainly use it for going uphill and being on par with my friend I bike with, who's riding a feather road bike of 8kg.

We planned a little trip on a few days in september, with a bit of elevation and potentially no stop in a civilized place and 210 km to ride. So I figured, with such deal available, that it could be a good idea to get 50% more battery :) Luckily, you reassured me about the life span of the RE, so now, fingers crossed until I can test it.

I haven't tried to keep the handle bar in the lowest position and switching to +6. That'll be my next experiment. Thanks again.
 
Vertically on the seat tube, and that is the only place recommended by Specialized and within the reach of the cable.
20230730_182324.jpg
 
You must use the 220 mm SL Road Cable. Probably the one you are getting is the proper one. The SL MTB cable would be too short and no other sizes are made!
 
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FYI, the RE locks in the Zee Cage II by turning the former until the RE notch meets the matching protrusion of the cage. I didn't know that and almost lost the RE on the first ride 🤣

Also, there is a locking latch at the plug inserted into the e-bike charging socket. 3 o'clock position: open. 6 o'clock position: locked.

Sorry for explaining the trivia but I had to learn it myself 😊
 
I love precautions, so I can only thank you more. I've seen a pictogram for the locking of the plug, but didn't know about the RE locking system. You probably saved me some trouble.
 
1692346849454.png

That's what my first real adventure looks like :) And I'm all prepped up thanks to this forum, so a big thanks to all the people who shared their knowledge and took the time to answer my maaaany questions. It's really awesome to count on such a dedicated and helpful community.
 
Vado SL EQ owners:
Do not overload your rear rack! The 15 kg limit is true. Unfortunately, I used to overload the rack with panniers, and also experienced several crashes with at least one pannier on the rack. As the outcome, the rack got bent beyond any repair. As the rack is integrated with the rear mudguard (a.k.a. fender), I had to replace the rack with a new one, ordered from the Specialized LBS (it cost around US$100).

1693432540433.png

The replacement is very easy. Three screws and a single bolt plus a provided spacer will do.
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Vado SL EQ owners:
Do not overload your rear rack! The 15 kg limit is true. Unfortunately, I used to overload the rack with panniers, and also experienced several crashes with at least one pannier on the rack. As the outcome, the rack got bent beyond any repair. As the rack is integrated with the rear mudguard (a.k.a. fender), I had to replace the rack with a new one, ordered from the Specialized LBS (it cost around US$100).

View attachment 161660
The replacement is very easy. Three screws and a single bolt plus a provided spacer will do.
Click to expand...
At least the parts were relatively inexpensive and easy to install. Small positives
 
Quite recently, I was given a chance to ride a Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon bike (drop handlebars) in size 56 (it is decidedly a Large frame). I had to assume almost a horizontal position to ride that bicycle (it was definitely too large for me!) I also could demo ride a Specialized Diverge Comp E5 EVO, which is a flat handlebar gravel bike, size M. What made me very surprised was the bike stem was directly under my chest but the riding position was natural and comfortable!

Now, I started thinking whether I did not overdo my mods for Vado SL that put me in a very aggressive forward riding position? I have given it a test by raising the stem from the most bottom to the top position on the steering tube:

1693949167157.png


Outcome:
  • Worse aero
  • Immediate pain in the butt
  • Far better e-bike handling and steering.
Then I moved the stem to the intermediate position, with the narrow and a wide spacer below it. Let us see how it has worked out! Of the two options, I prefer no butt ache to better steering of my Vado SL!
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Quite recently, I was given a chance to ride a Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon bike (drop handlebars) in size 56 (it is decidedly a Large frame). I had to assume almost a horizontal position to ride that bicycle (it was definitely too large for me!) I also could demo ride a Specialized Diverge Comp E5 EVO, which is a flat handlebar gravel bike, size M. What made me very surprised was the bike stem was directly under my chest but the riding position was natural and comfortable!

Now, I started thinking whether I did not overdo my mods for Vado SL that put me in a very aggressive forward riding position? I have given it a test by raising the stem from the most bottom to the top position on the steering tube:

View attachment 162039

Outcome:
  • Worse aero
  • Immediate pain in the butt
  • Far better e-bike handling and steering.
Then I moved the stem to the intermediate position, with the narrow and a wide spacer below it. Let us see how it has worked out! Of the two options, I prefer no butt ache to better steering of my Vado SL!
Click to expand...
Very interesting. Following your lead, I’ve been using Innerbarends which are great and found my posture was more aggressive. This has caused some hand numbness. That required some ongoing saddle position adjustment to bring me a bit closed to the handlebar so I’m not putting too much weight on my hands. (About a centimeter.)

Getting this right became more of a challenge because my saddle tilt adjustment kept slipping. I finally had to remove and remount the saddle using a level to get the position right. I think it’s working but now I’m having gear slipping issues so ride position adjustment finalization have to wait until my LBS can figure out the drive chain problem. It’s always something, I guess.

Back to your lesson. The more aggressive position due to the Innerbarends has been tempting me to reconsider a drop bar bike. When I restarted riding a few years ago I was reluctant to even consider drops as they weren’t really available to me when I’d stopped riding as a teenager in 1964, so I’d had no youthful experience. As an oldie they seemed intimidating. I guess I’m lucky (?) that current extraordinary medical expenses make seriously considering another bike unlikely.

I look forward to hearing more about your experiences.
 
I demo rode a Creo and decided the drop bars were not for me 😊 It could be the matter of a wrong bike fit in the first place, I don't know!
 
Dear all, I'm so pleased to have found this mine of information here.

I've recently got a Vado SL 5.0 Eq as a treat to mark my retirement. It makes me feel like I am 25 again - like many of you have said, it feels natural to ride. Round here - the Trossachs on the edge of the Scottish Highlands - I have lots of tracks I can follow. Trossachs derives from the Gaelic for "knobbly country" and the ebike is making an enormous difference to where I can actually get. The constant up and down means that a full battery would only do me for about 30 miles which is enough for me anyway. I've put a couple of photos of the type of track I'm riding on.

I have a question, in case there's any advice. I would like to reduce the reach a little and that is quite complicated given the futureshock. Before going ahead, does anyone know if that would make the steering unstable? As you can see, steering control is fairly important on these tracks.

IMG_5271.jpeg
IMG_5269.jpeg
 
Stefan Mikes said:
@Herc welcome to the Vado SL thread. Here you can ask owners of the lightweight Specialized e-bike what they think 😊
Click to expand...
I've been reading some articles about the best way to shift with mid-drive e-bikes. One commentator said this:
"Never lug the bike with slow pedaling up a steep hill."
Apparently because it stresses and can damage the motor. Just curious if this is a real issue with the Vado SL? Perhaps because the SL motor is less powerful this is not a real concern. With an analogue bike I would typically shift to a higher gear and stand up for a bit to give my legs and body a break. Would doing something similar be a mistake with the Vado SL?
 
mjh5 said:
I've been reading some articles about the best way to shift with mid-drive e-bikes. One commentator said this:
"Never lug the bike with slow pedaling up a steep hill."
Apparently because it stresses and can damage the motor. Just curious if this is a real issue with the Vado SL? Perhaps because the SL motor is less powerful this is not a real concern. With an analogue bike I would typically shift to a higher gear and stand up for a bit to give my legs and body a break. Would doing something similar be a mistake with the Vado SL?
Click to expand...

As with all bikes...electric or analog....shifting is a bit of an 'art'. On my Vado SL one will quickly 'understand' the abilities of its mid-drive motor. It likes cadence(s) in the 80's and 90's. It 'sounds' best when it 'feels' best.....and luckily works best in the same way(s) that your analog bike works 'best'. You don't lug up hills in low gears for obvious reasons on an analog bike and you won't do this on a Vado SL either. The Vado SL isn't the type of ebike that throttles you around or up hills....and it certainly won't (completely) overcome the wrong gear by virtue of its motor power alone. This is a bike that should be ridden as if it were analog......with the added benefit of having an electric assist to help you along if/when needed.

In the big cog(s) while grinding up hills.....a quick bump into Eco or Sport will most definitely provide support. If you gear down into the smaller cog(s) in the same scenario you will quickly lose most of the benefits of motor assist. With even limited experience(s) on a bicycle like this you would quickly/easily understand the relationship between gearing and motor assist. It sounds more complicated than it is. I don't imagine that most would accidentally strain their motor for extended periods by mishandling their gear selection.....you will feel and hear the issue and rapidly change it intuitively.
 
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