Löhmraagondein
Member
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- Europe
I'll get the 220mm and the zee cage (left!) asap at my LBS. 55€ should do it.
Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)
- Thread starter Stefan Mikes
- Start date
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
FYI, the RE locks in the Zee Cage II by turning the former until the RE notch meets the matching protrusion of the cage. I didn't know that and almost lost the RE on the first ride 
Also, there is a locking latch at the plug inserted into the e-bike charging socket. 3 o'clock position: open. 6 o'clock position: locked.
Sorry for explaining the trivia but I had to learn it myself
Also, there is a locking latch at the plug inserted into the e-bike charging socket. 3 o'clock position: open. 6 o'clock position: locked.
Sorry for explaining the trivia but I had to learn it myself
Löhmraagondein
Member
- Region
- Europe
I love precautions, so I can only thank you more. I've seen a pictogram for the locking of the plug, but didn't know about the RE locking system. You probably saved me some trouble.
Löhmraagondein
Member
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- Europe
That's what my first real adventure looks like
And I'm all prepped up thanks to this forum, so a big thanks to all the people who shared their knowledge and took the time to answer my maaaany questions. It's really awesome to count on such a dedicated and helpful community.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Vado SL EQ owners:
Do not overload your rear rack! The 15 kg limit is true. Unfortunately, I used to overload the rack with panniers, and also experienced several crashes with at least one pannier on the rack. As the outcome, the rack got bent beyond any repair. As the rack is integrated with the rear mudguard (a.k.a. fender), I had to replace the rack with a new one, ordered from the Specialized LBS (it cost around US$100).
The replacement is very easy. Three screws and a single bolt plus a provided spacer will do.
Do not overload your rear rack! The 15 kg limit is true. Unfortunately, I used to overload the rack with panniers, and also experienced several crashes with at least one pannier on the rack. As the outcome, the rack got bent beyond any repair. As the rack is integrated with the rear mudguard (a.k.a. fender), I had to replace the rack with a new one, ordered from the Specialized LBS (it cost around US$100).
The replacement is very easy. Three screws and a single bolt plus a provided spacer will do.
BEC111
Well-Known Member
At least the parts were relatively inexpensive and easy to install. Small positives
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Quite recently, I was given a chance to ride a Specialized Diverge Comp Carbon bike (drop handlebars) in size 56 (it is decidedly a Large frame). I had to assume almost a horizontal position to ride that bicycle (it was definitely too large for me!) I also could demo ride a Specialized Diverge Comp E5 EVO, which is a flat handlebar gravel bike, size M. What made me very surprised was the bike stem was directly under my chest but the riding position was natural and comfortable!
Now, I started thinking whether I did not overdo my mods for Vado SL that put me in a very aggressive forward riding position? I have given it a test by raising the stem from the most bottom to the top position on the steering tube:
Outcome:
Now, I started thinking whether I did not overdo my mods for Vado SL that put me in a very aggressive forward riding position? I have given it a test by raising the stem from the most bottom to the top position on the steering tube:
Outcome:
- Worse aero
- Immediate pain in the butt
- Far better e-bike handling and steering.
BEC111
Well-Known Member
Very interesting. Following your lead, I’ve been using Innerbarends which are great and found my posture was more aggressive. This has caused some hand numbness. That required some ongoing saddle position adjustment to bring me a bit closed to the handlebar so I’m not putting too much weight on my hands. (About a centimeter.)
Getting this right became more of a challenge because my saddle tilt adjustment kept slipping. I finally had to remove and remount the saddle using a level to get the position right. I think it’s working but now I’m having gear slipping issues so ride position adjustment finalization have to wait until my LBS can figure out the drive chain problem. It’s always something, I guess.
Back to your lesson. The more aggressive position due to the Innerbarends has been tempting me to reconsider a drop bar bike. When I restarted riding a few years ago I was reluctant to even consider drops as they weren’t really available to me when I’d stopped riding as a teenager in 1964, so I’d had no youthful experience. As an oldie they seemed intimidating. I guess I’m lucky (?) that current extraordinary medical expenses make seriously considering another bike unlikely.
I look forward to hearing more about your experiences.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
I demo rode a Creo and decided the drop bars were not for me It could be the matter of a wrong bike fit in the first place, I don't know!
It could be the matter of a wrong bike fit in the first place, I don't know!
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
What is the rated load of that rack?
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Thank you! I might want to invest in that rack!
Dear all, I'm so pleased to have found this mine of information here.
I've recently got a Vado SL 5.0 Eq as a treat to mark my retirement. It makes me feel like I am 25 again - like many of you have said, it feels natural to ride. Round here - the Trossachs on the edge of the Scottish Highlands - I have lots of tracks I can follow. Trossachs derives from the Gaelic for "knobbly country" and the ebike is making an enormous difference to where I can actually get. The constant up and down means that a full battery would only do me for about 30 miles which is enough for me anyway. I've put a couple of photos of the type of track I'm riding on.
I have a question, in case there's any advice. I would like to reduce the reach a little and that is quite complicated given the futureshock. Before going ahead, does anyone know if that would make the steering unstable? As you can see, steering control is fairly important on these tracks.
I've recently got a Vado SL 5.0 Eq as a treat to mark my retirement. It makes me feel like I am 25 again - like many of you have said, it feels natural to ride. Round here - the Trossachs on the edge of the Scottish Highlands - I have lots of tracks I can follow. Trossachs derives from the Gaelic for "knobbly country" and the ebike is making an enormous difference to where I can actually get. The constant up and down means that a full battery would only do me for about 30 miles which is enough for me anyway. I've put a couple of photos of the type of track I'm riding on.
I have a question, in case there's any advice. I would like to reduce the reach a little and that is quite complicated given the futureshock. Before going ahead, does anyone know if that would make the steering unstable? As you can see, steering control is fairly important on these tracks.
I've been reading some articles about the best way to shift with mid-drive e-bikes. One commentator said this:@Herc welcome to the Vado SL thread. Here you can ask owners of the lightweight Specialized e-bike what they think
"Never lug the bike with slow pedaling up a steep hill."
Apparently because it stresses and can damage the motor. Just curious if this is a real issue with the Vado SL? Perhaps because the SL motor is less powerful this is not a real concern. With an analogue bike I would typically shift to a higher gear and stand up for a bit to give my legs and body a break. Would doing something similar be a mistake with the Vado SL?
As with all bikes...electric or analog....shifting is a bit of an 'art'. On my Vado SL one will quickly 'understand' the abilities of its mid-drive motor. It likes cadence(s) in the 80's and 90's. It 'sounds' best when it 'feels' best.....and luckily works best in the same way(s) that your analog bike works 'best'. You don't lug up hills in low gears for obvious reasons on an analog bike and you won't do this on a Vado SL either. The Vado SL isn't the type of ebike that throttles you around or up hills....and it certainly won't (completely) overcome the wrong gear by virtue of its motor power alone. This is a bike that should be ridden as if it were analog......with the added benefit of having an electric assist to help you along if/when needed.
In the big cog(s) while grinding up hills.....a quick bump into Eco or Sport will most definitely provide support. If you gear down into the smaller cog(s) in the same scenario you will quickly lose most of the benefits of motor assist. With even limited experience(s) on a bicycle like this you would quickly/easily understand the relationship between gearing and motor assist. It sounds more complicated than it is. I don't imagine that most would accidentally strain their motor for extended periods by mishandling their gear selection.....you will feel and hear the issue and rapidly change it intuitively.
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I would first try to adjust your seat....which has some limited ability to slide front to back.....and see if this is sufficient.
A "shorter" stem would also provide the relief that you seek....but as you already know....this is complicated by the monies that you have spent on a Future Shock stem. I am not familiar with how the FutureShock is mounted. I bought the Vado 4.0 which has a standard stem and I did replace it with a RedShift suspension stem.....and this type of stem is available in differing lengths and degrees of angle....enabling a rider to have more/less 'reach'. Certainly your bike could be modified in a similar way....but it would be nice if you could do so and keep your (already paid for) suspension stem system.
If the seat alone doesn't work for you.....changing your grips might also provide some (limited) reach relief. Of the few mods that I did on my Vado SL 4.0......the change to Ergon GP3 grips is my favorite. These grips have 'horns' which are surprisingly stable....and the palm rests that they provide extend back more than expected. A combination of a grip such as this one....and seat adjustment might be enough to 'do the trick' (if you are lucky).
Beautiful photos!!....and thanks for the whisky! That terrain is beautiful but I am surprised that you chose the Vado SL to enjoy it. Perhaps I am a wimp....but my Vado SL rides mostly on smooth-ish asphalt and some occasional gravel to ensure that my teeth remain intact. I can tell you that by necessity I put 700x42 tires on my Vado SL and it REALLY softened the ride compared to the 38's that come OEM. I believe that you could even go a bit larger and it would REALLY be more comfortable on that Scottish terrain that you photographed.
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Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
Exactly as @mfgrep said. The SL 1.1 motor is totally inefficient at low cadence (you can feel it!) as the motor needs to spin to deliver. My strategy while approaching a climb is to downshift a little prior to the climb, get at cadence > 80 rpm and maintain the momentum. I love watching the cadence meter on such climbs! As I can see the cadence dropping, I momentarily stop pedalling and downshift more. And more. And more. At some moment I pedal ridiculously fast (cadence 90-100) but that's effortless! You can actually feel the motor is doing its best at that high cadence! I can even do local overpasses (4.2% grade) unpowered if I like. (I could do a 10% climb on raw cobblestone, too but that was the 44-36T gear and SL Turbo).
I have never left my saddle on any climb so far.
Riding out of saddle on an e-bike is bad for your knees and drivetrain in the first place. It does not affect the motor.
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
FutureShock requires Specialized stems made for the FutureShock. I do not think you can install any shorter stem on Vado SL 5.0, that's why I could not give @RJWatt42 any answer. He could talk to a bike-fitter at a good Specialized store (they have a drawer full of compatible stems).
Ya I recall something 'special' about that Future Shock fitment. Thanks.
That Vado SL....I'm in love with it. It took me 400-500 miles to get it 'right' for me. New pedals, grips, stem, and mirror....and a lot of fitment adjustments. Now I just get on it and it just feels so 'right' every time. Broke through the 1000 miles at odometer last week.
I had a family event/death mid August which threw me off of my 100 mile per week goal....but I rode as time allowed through that period. Now I'm through the personal/family stuff but I am still finding it hard to consistently keep 100 miles per week going. Might lower my 'goal' to 75 miles lol. I rode Sunday, Monday, and yesterday racking up about 50 miles....and purposefully took today off. This is my first day off that I thought to myself "my muscles need a rest". I didn't fight it.
Its going to be a long winter.
Hope you are doing well Stefan!
Stefan Mikes
Gravel e-biker
- Region
- Europe
- City
- Mazovia, PL
I do not complain
Never have asked the dealer for help during the first two year warranty term. Updated the firmware only post-warranty.It does not include other people who rode my Vado SL for a couple of hundred kilometres more.
Sorry to hear about the sad events in your family though.
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