Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[Stefan Mikes]

I checked the Surly corner bars again but it states that the grips are 22.2. The bar is made to convert flat bar bikes to "gravel" bar bikes.

The grip area is 22.2 mm, the horizontal part is 25.4 mm. As the remote cable has only a certain slack, I expect trouble on relocating the handlebar remote. If you succeed, I'd like to see a photo

The Surly Corner Bar is missing what is the most important in the drop handlebars: the "hoods" in which gravel cyclists spend 90% of their riding time.

 

[GAJ]

Ow and im using a airtag in my bike hidden inside the top tube just in case.

An AirTag inside the top tube sounds like a great idea assuming I could get the cops to chase it down!

Decades ago I bough a quite heavy motorcycle lock made of Ulock type steel bar that folds so is about three three feet long with 6 inch long links or so at the Yamaha dealer so I guess I could lug that along but I'd need to figure a way to afix it to the bike. The folded lock in its pouch is about 65 inches by 7 inches.

 

[David C]

Since 2019 when the Vado SL came out how many have had to replace a dead battery? What were the symptoms. Was it a gradual decline in distance traveled? Or maybe this rarely happens.

 

[mschwett]

An AirTag inside the top tube sounds like a great idea assuming I could get the cops to chase it down!

Decades ago I bough a quite heavy motorcycle lock made of Ulock type steel bar that folds so is about three three feet long with 6 inch long links or so at the Yamaha dealer so I guess I could lug that along but I'd need to figure a way to afix it to the bike. The folded lock in its pouch is about 65 inches by 7 inches.

adhered/affixed to the interior surface of the plastic motor cover is better. reception/range better than inside an aluminum tube!

i have one there on my creo, even though a carbon fiber top tube probably doesn’t mess with the signal as much as aluminum.

 

[Vlenda]

adhered/affixed to the interior surface of the plastic motor cover is better. reception/range better than inside an aluminum tube!

i have one there on my creo, even though a carbon fiber top tube probably doesn’t mess with the signal as much as aluminum.

I have it in the carbon top tube snugged in behind the display. The reception for me was the best at that spot. I also removed the airtag speaker so it doesn't ring when you get close with a iphone.

 

[Howie7]

Thanks for writing this account of how to change the internal spring. I also had three springs in the supplied box when my bike arrived and having read your account. I decided I have a look inside my future shock as well, no spring! I put the medium strength spring in, as you did, and found, but it did make a significant difference to the feel of the ride. As you said, it was a simple job to do.

 

[Te. S]

just went to my LBS specialiazed dealer and had a softwear up date done on my SL any one knows what the update is for ? TIA

 

[Löhmraagondein]

just went to my LBS specialiazed dealer and had a softwear up date done on my SL any one knows what the update is for ? TIA

The last I got brought a battery saving option when charging your bike. It stops charging when reaching 80% to preserve the lifespan of the battery, but will do a full charge every 10 charges.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

just went to my LBS specialiazed dealer and had a softwear up date done on my SL any one knows what the update is for ? TIA

It is written in Mission Control. One of the features is the option to charge the battery to only 80% on demand. Battery stability fixes. Things like that.

 

[Bruce525]

I just bought the TCD to add to my Vado SL 4.0. I recently had the LBS update my bike software. The TCD connects to the bike ok. Is it possible for me to update the TCD software? Searching online it appears it can be updated via Mission Control but the TCD section never appears in the diagnose page and I have not found a way to do it.

 

[Bruce525]

I have a request of someone with a Vado SL 4.0 EQ. I am working on my rear rack strategy and am considering moving my rear light from the saddle to the back of the rear rack. Would someone with the EQ version tell me and share pictures if possible showing where the rear light wire exits the frame and is routed to the back of the rear fender? On the non EQ bike the light wire comes up through the center of the seat post which is inconvenient to route to a rear rack. Thanks

 

[Rás Cnoic]

I have a request of someone with a Vado SL 4.0 EQ. I am working on my rear rack strategy and am considering moving my rear light from the saddle to the back of the rear rack. Would someone with the EQ version tell me and share pictures if possible showing where the rear light wire exits the frame and is routed to the back of the rear fender? On the non EQ bike the light wire comes up through the center of the seat post which is inconvenient to route to a rear rack. Thanks

V good question. Was thinking about getting a dropper post so would need to rewire the light from saddle as well. Bruce, how are you planning to attach light to rear rack?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I have a request of someone with a Vado SL 4.0 EQ. I am working on my rear rack strategy and am considering moving my rear light from the saddle to the back of the rear rack. Would someone with the EQ version tell me and share pictures if possible showing where the rear light wire exits the frame and is routed to the back of the rear fender? On the non EQ bike the light wire comes up through the center of the seat post which is inconvenient to route to a rear rack. Thanks

The tail-light wire exits the motor chamber on the drive-side near to the chainstay and then it is routed along the edge of the rear fender right to the tail-light.

Not sure how exactly the wire is fastened to the inner edge of the fender.

 

[Bruce525]

V good question. Was thinking about getting a dropper post so would need to rewire the light from saddle as well. Bruce, how are you planning to attach light to rear rack?

I will CAD and 3D print a bracket.

 

[Bruce525]

View attachment 151408
The tail-light wire exits the motor chamber on the drive-side near to the chainstay and then it is routed along the edge of the rear fender right to the tail-light.

Not sure how exactly the wire is fastened to the inner edge of the fender.

Thanks for the thorough post. I suspected it was something like this - now I have the details.

 

[ispookie666]

I just about installed Peartune MSO 4.0 for Specialized 1.1. I managed to damage the connectors in the process due to being daft.
If anyone is installing this, please read the instructions carefully!

Painful to route the cable - I tried the usual tricks but had to buy a cable puller/router for bikes. The magnetic cable puller helped in routing the cable from the motor to the cable side entry on the down tube/battery tube(I used a 30N magnet, which I had lying around); I then attached a 3.6mm (Orange) strimmer wire and pulled through, tying knots at both ends. This was the easy bit!

Routing the cable puller from the TCU/Top tube to the side slot was an absolute royal pia. I spent much time using the magnetic cable puller but could not route the wire as the magnet was getting stuck onto some ferromagnetic thing in the head tube. Moreover, the cable must turn 3/4 of the circle from the top tube to the down tube. I tried using loads of different techniques and countless hours. Finally, I used a 2mm stainless steel rope from the top tube, and a few attempts later, I could see the steel rope through the side cable entry port (I have no idea why the stainless steel rope worked, but I was able to reproduce this a few times!) I used an Allen key to gently fish it out from the cable entry in the down tube. Then taped, the orange cable to the steel wire and pulled it through so that the orange cable extended from the top tube(TCU) to the battery house.

I again used electrical tape to pull the Peartune cables from the TCU/Top tube to the motor housing. All connected up and heat shrinking done.

Test ride - Working well.

PS: I did have some significant problems and managed to damage my motor connectors. I had failed to follow the fine print! I accidentally removed the last two screws instead of loosening them; this resulted in the motor falling off and shearing the connector housing. I have managed to work around this using heat shrink; who knows how long this will work!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I spent much time using the magnetic cable puller but could not route the wire as the magnet was getting stuck onto some ferromagnetic thing in the head tube. Moreover, the cable must turn 3/4 of the circle from the top tube to the down tube. I tried using loads of different techniques and countless hours.

Did you meet a plastic sleeve in the head-tube during fishing the cable? That was the thing to stop your wires!

 

[ispookie666]

Did you meet a plastic sleeve in the head-tube during fishing the cable? That was the thing to stop your wires!

I did not dismantle the head tube; something was stopping it. The cable connecting the walk button is probably steel; the bloody magnet was getting stuck to it.
Maybe I should have taken it apart.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I did not dismantle the head tube; something was stopping it. The cable connecting the walk button is probably steel; the bloody magnet was getting stuck to it.
Maybe I should have taken it apart.

There is a plastic sleeve in the head tube. It protects the cables inside against rubbing. Removing the fork and finding the sleeve would have saved you hours of work!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

A quite interesting observation related to Vado SL, I think.
I was forced to ride either unassisted or minimally assisted (like 15/100%) on last Sunday to match the speed of my slow traditional cycling friend. When I switched the e-bike from the "minimalist ECO" to "OFF" I had a sensation the drivetrain got disconnected from the motor, and the pedalling became easier! Is that possible?