Specialized Turbo Vado SL: An Incredible E-Bike (User Club)

[Howie7]

Thanks for writing this account of how to change the internal spring. I also had three springs in the supplied box when my bike arrived and having read your account. I decided I have a look inside my future shock as well, no spring! I put the medium strength spring in, as you did, and found, but it did make a significant difference to the feel of the ride. As you said, it was a simple job to do.

 

[Te. S]

just went to my LBS specialiazed dealer and had a softwear up date done on my SL any one knows what the update is for ? TIA

 

[Löhmraagondein]

just went to my LBS specialiazed dealer and had a softwear up date done on my SL any one knows what the update is for ? TIA

The last I got brought a battery saving option when charging your bike. It stops charging when reaching 80% to preserve the lifespan of the battery, but will do a full charge every 10 charges.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

just went to my LBS specialiazed dealer and had a softwear up date done on my SL any one knows what the update is for ? TIA

It is written in Mission Control. One of the features is the option to charge the battery to only 80% on demand. Battery stability fixes. Things like that.

 

[Bruce525]

I just bought the TCD to add to my Vado SL 4.0. I recently had the LBS update my bike software. The TCD connects to the bike ok. Is it possible for me to update the TCD software? Searching online it appears it can be updated via Mission Control but the TCD section never appears in the diagnose page and I have not found a way to do it.

 

[Bruce525]

I have a request of someone with a Vado SL 4.0 EQ. I am working on my rear rack strategy and am considering moving my rear light from the saddle to the back of the rear rack. Would someone with the EQ version tell me and share pictures if possible showing where the rear light wire exits the frame and is routed to the back of the rear fender? On the non EQ bike the light wire comes up through the center of the seat post which is inconvenient to route to a rear rack. Thanks

 

[Rás Cnoic]

I have a request of someone with a Vado SL 4.0 EQ. I am working on my rear rack strategy and am considering moving my rear light from the saddle to the back of the rear rack. Would someone with the EQ version tell me and share pictures if possible showing where the rear light wire exits the frame and is routed to the back of the rear fender? On the non EQ bike the light wire comes up through the center of the seat post which is inconvenient to route to a rear rack. Thanks

V good question. Was thinking about getting a dropper post so would need to rewire the light from saddle as well. Bruce, how are you planning to attach light to rear rack?

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I have a request of someone with a Vado SL 4.0 EQ. I am working on my rear rack strategy and am considering moving my rear light from the saddle to the back of the rear rack. Would someone with the EQ version tell me and share pictures if possible showing where the rear light wire exits the frame and is routed to the back of the rear fender? On the non EQ bike the light wire comes up through the center of the seat post which is inconvenient to route to a rear rack. Thanks

The tail-light wire exits the motor chamber on the drive-side near to the chainstay and then it is routed along the edge of the rear fender right to the tail-light.

Not sure how exactly the wire is fastened to the inner edge of the fender.

 

[Bruce525]

V good question. Was thinking about getting a dropper post so would need to rewire the light from saddle as well. Bruce, how are you planning to attach light to rear rack?

I will CAD and 3D print a bracket.

 

[Bruce525]

View attachment 151408
The tail-light wire exits the motor chamber on the drive-side near to the chainstay and then it is routed along the edge of the rear fender right to the tail-light.

Not sure how exactly the wire is fastened to the inner edge of the fender.

Thanks for the thorough post. I suspected it was something like this - now I have the details.

 

[ispookie666]

I just about installed Peartune MSO 4.0 for Specialized 1.1. I managed to damage the connectors in the process due to being daft.
If anyone is installing this, please read the instructions carefully!

Painful to route the cable - I tried the usual tricks but had to buy a cable puller/router for bikes. The magnetic cable puller helped in routing the cable from the motor to the cable side entry on the down tube/battery tube(I used a 30N magnet, which I had lying around); I then attached a 3.6mm (Orange) strimmer wire and pulled through, tying knots at both ends. This was the easy bit!

Routing the cable puller from the TCU/Top tube to the side slot was an absolute royal pia. I spent much time using the magnetic cable puller but could not route the wire as the magnet was getting stuck onto some ferromagnetic thing in the head tube. Moreover, the cable must turn 3/4 of the circle from the top tube to the down tube. I tried using loads of different techniques and countless hours. Finally, I used a 2mm stainless steel rope from the top tube, and a few attempts later, I could see the steel rope through the side cable entry port (I have no idea why the stainless steel rope worked, but I was able to reproduce this a few times!) I used an Allen key to gently fish it out from the cable entry in the down tube. Then taped, the orange cable to the steel wire and pulled it through so that the orange cable extended from the top tube(TCU) to the battery house.

I again used electrical tape to pull the Peartune cables from the TCU/Top tube to the motor housing. All connected up and heat shrinking done.

Test ride - Working well.

PS: I did have some significant problems and managed to damage my motor connectors. I had failed to follow the fine print! I accidentally removed the last two screws instead of loosening them; this resulted in the motor falling off and shearing the connector housing. I have managed to work around this using heat shrink; who knows how long this will work!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I spent much time using the magnetic cable puller but could not route the wire as the magnet was getting stuck onto some ferromagnetic thing in the head tube. Moreover, the cable must turn 3/4 of the circle from the top tube to the down tube. I tried using loads of different techniques and countless hours.

Did you meet a plastic sleeve in the head-tube during fishing the cable? That was the thing to stop your wires!

 

[ispookie666]

Did you meet a plastic sleeve in the head-tube during fishing the cable? That was the thing to stop your wires!

I did not dismantle the head tube; something was stopping it. The cable connecting the walk button is probably steel; the bloody magnet was getting stuck to it.
Maybe I should have taken it apart.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I did not dismantle the head tube; something was stopping it. The cable connecting the walk button is probably steel; the bloody magnet was getting stuck to it.
Maybe I should have taken it apart.

There is a plastic sleeve in the head tube. It protects the cables inside against rubbing. Removing the fork and finding the sleeve would have saved you hours of work!

 

[Stefan Mikes]

A quite interesting observation related to Vado SL, I think.
I was forced to ride either unassisted or minimally assisted (like 15/100%) on last Sunday to match the speed of my slow traditional cycling friend. When I switched the e-bike from the "minimalist ECO" to "OFF" I had a sensation the drivetrain got disconnected from the motor, and the pedalling became easier! Is that possible?

 

[Kris Mason]

A quite interesting observation related to Vado SL, I think.
I was forced to ride either unassisted or minimally assisted (like 15/100%) on last Sunday to match the speed of my slow traditional cycling friend. When I switched the e-bike from the "minimalist ECO" to "OFF" I had a sensation the drivetrain got disconnected from the motor, and the pedalling became easier! Is that possible?

Very interesting I look forward to hearing more from your testing I’d very much like this to be true

 

[Stefan Mikes]

Very interesting I look forward to hearing more from your testing I’d very much like this to be true

I hate riding unassisted Kris. My daily ECO setting is 50/50%. As I recently choose not to push the speed derestrictor button, I often seamlessly get over 25 km/h and am getting a better workout that way Therefore, I was really surprised what happened at the low speed ride with my friend.

As my Vado SL is too old to have the MicroTune feature, I made my own using O-Synce controller and the BLEvo app. I set the initial assistance to 25/100% for ECO (the 100% Max Motor Power is essential at low Assist, as it makes the motor work all the time even if the assist is rather symbolic). As I was riding still too fast as for my friend, I was clicking the Down arrow on O-Synce, and could hear the "Assistance twenty percent... assistance fifteen percent... assistance ten percent" from BLEvo. The motor was whining, and I felt tired more and more. Suddenly, I went OFF to silence the motor! And... Pedalling has become easier!

Only I cannot trust my legs to ride unassisted!

 

[GAJ]

A quite interesting observation related to Vado SL, I think.
I was forced to ride either unassisted or minimally assisted (like 15/100%) on last Sunday to match the speed of my slow traditional cycling friend. When I switched the e-bike from the "minimalist ECO" to "OFF" I had a sensation the drivetrain got disconnected from the motor, and the pedalling became easier! Is that possible?

I use power to meet my friend on a paved bike trail and then turn the assist off to ride with him for 12 miles or so. It pedals every bit as well, if not better, unassisted than my analog bike so I actually have to slow down, even with no assist, so as not to lose sight of him in my mirror.

Bike continues to amaze and putting the medium helper spring in the Futureshock, (thanks to your pointing out it might not be in there), has really helped blunt the impact of major bumps which are common around here.

It is very nice when using assist on the way home, with 4 miles or so of riding in traffic, (speed limits of about 25), that cars generally don't even bother trying to overtake me as at 22mph +/- using Turbo I feel much safer. Takes some effort (which is my main goal anyway) but the reward is speed and relative safety.

 

[Stefan Mikes]

I use power to meet my friend on a paved bike trail and then turn the assist off to ride with him for 12 miles or so. It pedals every bit as well, if not better, unassisted than my analog bike so I actually have to slow down, even with no assist, so as not to lose sight of him in my mirror.

Same as I did on Sunday to arrive to the trail beginning (15 miles). Only a part of our 33 mile loop together was unpaved.

It is very nice when using assist on the way home, with 4 miles or so of riding in traffic, (speed limits of about 25), that cars generally don't even bother trying to overtake me as at 22mph +/- using Turbo I feel much safer. Takes some effort (which is my main goal anyway) but the reward is speed and relative safety.

I was totally spent after the group ride of Sunday. Honestly? I derestricted my Vado SL with a button push and went full Turbo. The e-bike provided most of the power for my 14 mile return... The good thing was I was riding home mostly on empty bike paths!

 

[DesertRich]

A couple of questions before I take the plunge on a Vado SL 5.0:
1. I hardly ever ride in the rain and have never owned a bike with fenders.
2. I live in an area with chunky rocks, even on gravel roads. I’m primarily going to be on pavement, but will use the Vado SL to do some low end/ green/ easy MTB tracks at certain destinations.
3. I really want a solid rear rack for a trunk bag and possibly longer bike touring with panniers.
4. I’m almost certain I’ll want to replace the seat.

So it seems to me a lot of people are buying the EQ version and removing the front fender. Can you get a 40mm under the fenders and still not have a lot of debris problems?
Some folks have added a rear rack to a non-EQ, and cut the rear light. I really don’t want to cut it but I’m willing to relocate a light if it isn’t too difficult.

How are people feeling about their choice of EQ or not after doing some modifications to suit their style?