Serial #/model of the bike not the same as what Mission Control says -- how to fix?

citivas

citivas

Member
Got my new Como 4.0 yesterday. I set up Mission Control tonight and tried to register the bike when it asked me too. However, it thinks my grey step-over Como 4 is a pink low entry Como 3.0 with a different serial # and there was no way to change it.

Is there any way to fix this?

When I was test riding the bike I got, I pointed out that the Control Unit screen had a crack on it. The owner of the LBS swapped out the control unit for another Turbo he had in stock and planned to order a replacement for it as a warranty item with Specialized. But that Control Unit must have the details of the original bike it came locked into it. Or at least that's my best guess.
 
Are you sure you entered the proper frame number when registering your Como on www.specialized.com? I had a similar situation when I mistakenly put a slightly different frame number. Trust me, Specialized know what they have manufactured. It has to be a user mistake. I think the frame number is stored in the TCU, not in the TCD-W display. More: I'm sure about it*.

@citivas: I know it might be troublesome for you but you can check the actual frame number: It is engraved inside of the left chain-stay. Or, look to the papers you got with your Como. The frame number must be there. (You give the frame number when you register your account at the Specialized web-site).

--------------------
*) My display had been replaced, too. All the bike information came from the Turbo Control Unit, not from the display.
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Are you sure you entered the proper frame number? I had a similar situation when I mistakenly put a slightly different frame number. Trust me, Specialized know what they have manufactured. It has to be a user mistake. I think the frame number is stored in the TCU, not in the TCD-W display. More: I'm sure about it.

@citivas: I know it might be troublesome for you but you can check the actual frame number: It is engraved inside of the left chain-stay. Or, look to the papers you got with your Como. The frame number must be there.
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It never asked me for a frame number or serial #. I had the sticker #'s all ready to go but it auto-decided all the bike info after I paired it with the phone app. It then automatically tried to register the bike with that info and it wouldn't let me manually override it.
 
Have you registered your e-bike at the Specialized web-site? I think you should do it first. Next, you log in to Specialized with Mission Control. At least it was my story.
 
Stefan Mikes said:
Have you registered your e-bike at the Specialized web-site? I think you should do it first. Next, you log in to Specialized with Mission Control. At least it was my story.
Click to expand...

I manually registered the real bike on the website this morning using the real serial #. So that worked. But the Mission Control app still thinks I have a different bike that's a pink 3,.0 low entry with a different serial #

Does it matter or can I just ignore that it's tracking a different bike I don't own?
 
I would definately say bring it up to the LBS you bought it at because this is a bit crazy for a top dollar bike you paid for.
 
I have 2 Comos I bought last year and was never told anything about registration nor does any of the paperwork provided with the bikes. What is the benefit of registration?
 
Ebiker53 said:
I have 2 Comos I bought last year and was never told anything about registration nor does any of the paperwork provided with the bikes. What is the benefit of registration?
Click to expand...
I registered my acoustic bike (Sirrus Sport) on the Specialized site when I bought it. Earlier this year there was a recall on the bike (some kind of issue with the crank). Specialized sent me a notice in the mail about the recall and the LBS fixed it for free. Without registration, I wouldn't have known about the crank issue.
 
When updating next time, have the dealer set the circumference to 2150mm / 84.64 inches to have it proper (this for a Como or any bike with Nimbus 650 tires). When you do this, your speed and distance will jive with other GPS systems, such as Garmin or Strava on the IPhone. When set higher, your bike will top out earlier (for example, at 2265 your TCD will read 19.5, but a gps will report you are actually only doing 17.5 mph) and your mileage will be registered greater. If you go lower on circumference setting, you will increase top speed and reduce registered mileage. 2000mm / 78.74 in is as low as you can set the circumference.
 
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Mission Control on the older Turbo models with the Turbo X or Turbo S batteries reports the serial numbers of the battery and the motor, not the bicycle. And there is no way to update the system with Mission Control. All of the "intelligence" is in the battery so that if you swap batteries, all previous information is lost. Further, there is VERY little visibility into the Motor other than the model number and internal temperature. So on the older Turbo models, the battery model number, serial number and firmware version are the most important pieces of information.

The actual bicycle serial number is printed on the underside of the frame along with the build date. The bicycle serial number is required for registration and warranty service (though my "2016" Turbo is LONG out of warranty). One of the advantages of registering is dealing with start of warranty proof. Your warranty starts when you take delivery and your record of sale (receipt) should be the definition of that date. However, in case you lose it or the dealer has gone out of business, registering the bicycle (which includes information on serial number and purchase date and place of purchase) MAY help to make claims (though registration is not legally required).

Another thing you should check before purchase is the build date. Specialized likes to carry over models from year to year with no changes. My Turbo was purchased in October of 2015 as a 2016 model year unit. The base Turbo model was originally introduced in the fall of 2014 as a 2015 model. When I checked out my bicycle, I found out the actual build date was SEPT. 2014! The dealer and Specialized just kept selling the same bicycle as a new model year. The distinguishing feature was a reduction in price from $3800 to $3000. BTW, they dropped the price again for the 2017 model year as a clearout where these same 2014 built units sold for something like $2500.
 
Douglas Ruby said:
Mission Control on the older Turbo models with the Turbo X or Turbo S batteries reports the serial numbers of the battery and the motor, not the bicycle. And there is no way to update the system with Mission Control. All of the "intelligence" is in the battery so that if you swap batteries, all previous information is lost. Further, there is VERY little visibility into the Motor other than the model number and internal temperature. So on the older Turbo models, the battery model number, serial number and firmware version are the most important pieces of information.

The actual bicycle serial number is printed on the underside of the frame along with the build date. The bicycle serial number is required for registration and warranty service (though my "2016" Turbo is LONG out of warranty). One of the advantages of registering is dealing with start of warranty proof. Your warranty starts when you take delivery and your record of sale (receipt) should be the definition of that date. However, in case you lose it or the dealer has gone out of business, registering the bicycle (which includes information on serial number and purchase date and place of purchase) MAY help to make claims (though registration is not legally required).

Another thing you should check before purchase is the build date. Specialized likes to carry over models from year to year with no changes. My Turbo was purchased in October of 2015 as a 2016 model year unit. The base Turbo model was originally introduced in the fall of 2014 as a 2015 model. When I checked out my bicycle, I found out the actual build date was SEPT. 2014! The dealer and Specialized just kept selling the same bicycle as a new model year. The distinguishing feature was a reduction in price from $3800 to $3000. BTW, they dropped the price again for the 2017 model year as a clearout where these same 2014 built units sold for something like $2500.
Click to expand...
It is very interesting. Any Turbo e-bike has their frame serial number imprinted on the frame. Currently, Mission Control reports the frame number, motor serial number and the battery serial number together with the frame number. Swapping batteries takes no effect on other information now (unlike in older Turbo models).

My LBS were claiming my Vado 5.0, the EU S-Pedelec was the MY 2019. The truth was it was the MY 2017, which become clear by not only inspecting the identification plate of that S-Pedelec (that's the extra item, holding among others the Vehicle Identification Number) but also the individual EU Certificate of Conformity was clear about the same. The e-bike was sold as a clearout, too, with the price reduced from US$5500 to US$3800.
 
Resurrecting this older post......My 2022 Vado 5.0 just had the 3rd motor installed 2 weeks ago, just a tad over 10,000 miles. The reason(s) (primarily) was a squeaking while pedaling (after motor was in use and was warmed up), and even after stopping pedaling the 'spin down' (or some other term to identify the continuation of internal components spinning) would slowly end the minor squeaking. Upon resuming to pedal, occasional squeaking would reoccur. After 2nd motor was put in just under 2 years ago, it started to happen again, and LBS said that the side cover just needed to be re-torqued, and that seemed to solve the issue, for almost the next 2 years. Upon it happening again, they ordered a new cover and it made no difference. So upon my insistence, I asked to dig deeper as I suspected similar motor wear like the first motor. I advised LBS that even if there was a cost involved for a new motor, I'd pony it up if necessary. (even though the 2nd motor was still within the 2 year warranty, just by a few days). Well, they put in a new motor, charged me for it, and told me that there was nothing wrong with the other one (2nd motor) and the squeaking was not the pedals, not the suspension, not the bearings, but the Abus horseshoe lock on the back frame, which they said they put a rubber insulator under.
So upon getting the bike back, it showed 4 miles on the new motor and today I did a short 16 mile ride. All the same noises, nothing changed, same squeaking, Additionally, it sure felt lacking (the assistance), and I was curios if there was a way to identify the previous motor serial numbers and if indeed they did use a 2.2 or got a 2.1 by mistake?
Regardless, the question is how do I know? I know I can ask, but how do I know from some means of visual or related tool to interrogate the system?
I'm still befuddled as to the squeaking, especially with the reference articles below.
I trust the LBS, but as an end user, how does one know? I cannot see any info in the app to view, and if a LBS hooks it up to their computer system they'd need to have the reports to compare, right?
My major point is the bike just feels lacking, unlike the way it was before the new motor, and the noises are still there.
Any advice/opinions?
Reference links:

Brose Motor Problems: What You Need to Know? - TwoWheelsTrend

Brose is one of the leading manufacturers of electric bike motors, offering a range of models for different types of e-bikes. However, like any mechanical device, Brose motors are not immune to problems and malfunctions. In this blog post, we will discuss some of the common issues that Brose...
twowheelstrend.com twowheelstrend.com
and
twowheelstrend.com

Specialized 2.1 vs. 2.2 motor: Compared - TwoWheelsTrend

Specialized electric bikes, commonly known as e-bikes, have gained popularity among cycling enthusiasts for their enhanced performance and efficient motor technology. When considering an electric bike, understanding the differences between motor models is crucial to ensure you choose the one...
twowheelstrend.com twowheelstrend.com
 
First of all, Bob, squeaking usually means anything else but the motor.
Secondly, you can only check whether the motor is new by examining the Odometer status in Specialized App -> Bike Status.
I don't think the LBS installed a wrong motor. Each Specialized e-bike is identified by its serial number. The dealer is obliged to only order the replacement parts that match a given e-bike serial number. It is not possible they could order a 2.1 for the e-bike registered as a 2.2 one.

How about checking the assistance settings? Also, please inspect the derailleur pulleys. In case they are worn, the chain might experience a terrible resistance, making an impression the motor is weak or failing.
 
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Brose does have a diagnostic tool that your dealer can use to diagnose your motor. With noises, you need to isolate it by riding normally with the squeak, then change something. Stop pedaling, then restart. Stand up, then sit down. Stand up and pedal, then sit down. Change one thing at a time to see if the noise goes away.

Removing the chain and cassette, cleaning them well, removing the derailleur pulleys, cleaning the junk off of them and greasing the bushings before reinstalling, are all good things to do. When you have the rear wheel off, check the rear hub bearings. Seals can squeak when they dry up.
 
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