Rockshox Monarch RL... Doesn't fully extend?

[PCeBiker]

Just found this ...

That It !!
That's exactly what I was thinking of doing, but didn't want to bugger up the seals.

I'm glad you posted that before I removed the IFP Valve Cap.

 

[Gionnirocket]

And found this now... Not sure why my searches didn't have these results before...

Google Search

Monarch + RC3, "STUCK DOWN"

Morning all,

www.vitalmtb.com

 

[Gionnirocket]

So overloading with grease may not be a good idea as it can clog the equalization/balancing port.
And maybe that's why they use just a grease film on the seals and then a few ml of oil

It's the small details Norton!

 

[PCeBiker]

OK, that all makes sense now.
My can wasn't pressurized so it just unthreaded and stayed there.

When I push the can on, it pressurized the lower chambers.

I wouldn't think that jamming a feeler gauge under the seal would be a recommended procedure, but whatever?

 

[PCeBiker]

So overloading with grease may not be a good idea as it can clog the equalization/balancing port.

I don't think that's the problem.

You can't install the can without pressurizing the lower chamber.

 

[Gionnirocket]

OK, that all makes sense now.
My can wasn't pressurized so it just unthreaded and stayed there.

When I push the can on, it pressurized the lower chambers.

I wouldn't think that jamming a feeler gauge under the seal would be a recommended procedure, but whatever?

I wouldn't do it.. You'll damage the seals and your not fixing the issue that caused the imballance

 

[Gionnirocket]

I don't think that's the problem.

You can't install the can without pressurizing the lower chamber.

No not the problem... But also not a good idea

 

[PCeBiker]

Just found this video...

It Worked !!!

I bent a feeler gauge kinda rounded and stuck in.

A bunch of air and gobs of grease came out as well.

It is now fully extended even when I released the pressure,..

 

[Gionnirocket]

Coolio... It's a quick fix.
But in my case it doesn't solve the problem as it returned after 50 miles or so.
Now with the new articles and videos I'm thinking the $20 / 50 hour service should be all I need to do.

 

[PCeBiker]

But in my case it doesn't solve the problem as it returned after 50 miles or so.

I'm still not 100% sure that my shock is OK.
I'll have to see if it starts sagging after a couple rides.

I didn't give it much of a test ride, but it didn't sag any further than before the ride. (about 35 km)

 

[PCeBiker]

Coolio... It's a quick fix.

Dude !! Seriously,..
You Have To Do This !!

But in my case it doesn't solve the problem as it returned after 50 miles or so.

I'll Bet You $10 CAD that it will indeed Permanently Fix Your Shock !!

Now with the new articles and videos I'm thinking the $20 / 50 hour service should be all I need to do.

Yes, Yes, and Yes again,..


When the can is Forced on, or you compress the damper assembly to thread on the can, you compress air between the damper seal and the can seal.

This air space here,..

There's a lot less air volume between the two seals (the lower chamber) than in the other chamber above. (the upper chamber?)

The pressure in the lower chamber, can EXPLODE the can off as mentioned in that link you posted.

If there is a "balancing" valve, or whatever that's supposed to "balance" the pressure between the Upper and Lower chambers, it obviously doesn't always work or something ??

I wouldn't do it.. You'll damage the seals and your not fixing the issue that caused the imballance

You Would fix the Issue !!

I'm sure that you can bleed the pressure off without damaging the "stanchion" or the seals if you use a proper feeler gauge, like in the video,..

You need to bleed that pressure off from forcing the can on.

,.. it doesn't solve the problem as it returned after 50 miles or so.

What you gots go-in is one of these used to start 's,..

Remember the P,V,T equation from science class?

50 miles of pumping up the heat is more than enough to create A HUGE 🌡 inside the lower chamber.

When the lower chamber Over Pressurizes, IT PULLS THE SHOCK CLOSED !!

So, when you let it sit after your ride, and it slowly recovers, it's because it has cooled off, and depressurized enough for the 150-275 PSI in the upper chamber to push back and extend the shock.


I have indeed 'ed a Vado, but I stand behind everything that I just made up.

My stanchion looks fine. No feeler gauge scratches.

It's leaking grease, but it always did.

 

[Gionnirocket]

I know what your saying but my shock was perfect after opening up to re_grease and reassembly . I had full travel and then after a few rides the problem returned. If I still had some measure of the issue after assembly I would agree with you 100%
So this tells me that parts need to be changed.
I'm going to replace all the air can rubber

 

[Gionnirocket]

... think of this.
Even if you end up with the shock under negative pressure on assembly. You should be able to exercise the shock thru full motion and it should equalize.
Just like when you pressurize it to proper sag and then exercise thru full motion to equalize the chambers.