Radrover Controller & Display Upgrade Kit
- Thread starter spmckinnon
- Start date
CynicalZombie
Member
Bolton's recommended C5 = 2. I imagine that is for the stock Rad Motor. What setting should be used with the true 750 motor?
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
I think Bolton's suggested for C5 is 10, which is letting everything available from the battery and controller through to the motor - giving you max available power. If you're a young performance nut, and how far you can get on a charge isn't as important as having all available power at your disposal that's the perfect setting!
If you'd like to stretch your available mileage a bit, this would be a good parameter to do some experimenting.
If you'd like to stretch your available mileage a bit, this would be a good parameter to do some experimenting.
CynicalZombie
Member
CynicalZombie
Member
I have about 100 miles on the Bolton controller where C5=2. I'm getting way more power than stock. How much more do you get with C5=10? Can C5=10 hurt the stock Rad motor?
Has anyone done comparison videos or have comparison data?
Has anyone done comparison videos or have comparison data?
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
Info in that link different than that shown in post #320. Whatever.....
You aren't going to hurt the stock motor with just a minute or 2 of full power.
Kyle did a couple of videos.
You have a built in data processor that you were born with, called a butt meter. Suggest you try it out!
You aren't going to hurt the stock motor with just a minute or 2 of full power.
Kyle did a couple of videos.
You have a built in data processor that you were born with, called a butt meter. Suggest you try it out!
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
There may be a better answer to your "will it hurt the motor" question. We know that the Rover motor is rated for 350-500 watts (depending on who you are talking to, Rad refuses to answer that question), and that it will handle 750w as long as you don't do that for too long - per the caution in the RAD owners manual regarding big hills.
How many watts are being fed to your motor at any given time is displayed on the controller - and you can change that number using the C5 and C14 parameters.
You mentioned that you are getting way more than stock with the C5=2 setting. So the question becomes, how many watts are you seeing displayed while in PAS 5 or at full throttle?
If that seems pretty safe, and you're interested in more, go for it. Just don't get carried away. Realize right away, the motor is getting hotter and hotter any time you are feeding it more than about 500w. Will that burn it down crossing a busy street? Not very likely....
But, that potential heat build up taken a step further, where you do get it hot enough to kill it? Now you'll have an excuse to re-power, with a real 750 Bafang, or something else. Let your wallet be your guide! -Al
legsofbeer
Active Member
One more anecdote about the upgraded controller's behavior, all on PAS no throttle. Today I intentionally rode it to battery low voltage shutoff (configured for 40.0v on c12). I was drawing about 250w when it shut off. The voltage display had dipped below 40v for a few minutes before it finally shut off. So, 4 blocks from home, pedal it the old fashioned way. The lights and display were still working, just no juice from the motor. I hit a looong red light, and while waiting, just for grins, power cycled the bike. Display turns on showing 40.something volts, and the motor has power again. Rode the last two blocks home with power. After letting the battery rest the displayed voltage was 41.2v.
So, this is a little bit different from the prior time I rode the battery to shutoff on the stock controller. That time the shutoff was hard and permanent until the bike was charged, and the display and lights were not powered. So, my conclusion is that a 40.0v shutoff voltage is on the "safe" side of what the stock battery management system in the battery will permit.
So, this is a little bit different from the prior time I rode the battery to shutoff on the stock controller. That time the shutoff was hard and permanent until the bike was charged, and the display and lights were not powered. So, my conclusion is that a 40.0v shutoff voltage is on the "safe" side of what the stock battery management system in the battery will permit.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
This is about battery voltage "sag".
When the bike shuts down due to low voltage, the first time, it's usually during high power consumption, e.g. climbing a hill, crossing a road, whatever. High throttle and or high PAS setting is creating a BIG demand on available power. If that's the case, you can generally cycle the power to get it to turn back on, set it to PAS1 and GENTLY make your way home if it's not too far....
Making a practice of this is a bad plan. Your battery doesn't care for this kind of treatment at all. To this end, you can raise or lower this low voltage cut off point (LVC) in your parameters. Check out C12 (I think?). -Al
CynicalZombie
Member
Some of you who have upgraded the controller have also upgraded to the true 750 Watt motor. I have a question... if I'm riding at 100 watts using the upgraded controller but stock motor, what difference would I notice riding it at the same 100 watts using the upgraded motor?
PAS 4/ 5 is where it makes a difference. At 100 Watts I don't see a noticeable difference.
Sustained climbing PAS 4/5 with the stock motor available power seems to fall off after a time. Probably heat soak.
The upgraded motor doesn't do that.
Bluzrif
Active Member
My MPH is accurate until I quit pedaling. It then jumps to 49.7 until I start pedaling again
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
You've got something going on in your setup. I'll have a look, maybe provide some ideas for you when I get a chance. -Al
Bluzrif
Active Member
AHicks...Turns out tuning P2 to 6 solved my problem ... thanks for your interest in helping
Daveincave67
New Member
Hello, do we need to buy a new lcd to make this upgrade controller work? Mine is also a 2018 radrover here in Ottawa Canada.
AHicks
Well-Known Member
- Region
- USA
- City
- Snow Bird - Summer S.E. Michigan, Winter Gulf Coast North Central Fl.
The Bolton kits include a new controller.
Edit: Geez, I meant to say the kit includes a new display. The kit includes a controller AND a display....
Sorry! -Al
Last edited:
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