R1U Ltd problem's, verified solutions and aftermarket accessories that work ... Fast n' Furious

I hear ya and just installed a 50T 130BCD WolfTooth on Gumbo Dacious - closing on 100miles riding - before this storm (It snowed in San Diego Campo area right on the US/ Mexico border. Ugh).
For the Lm'td I found these Decas Ring Gears are inexpensive ($15) and last well.
It should list the sizing on your present ring. If not: Here's a link on how to measure the ring.
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I so concur. It's an economical, simple improvement. I'd dare say for any terrain the Lm'td is meant to run.
A 48T, while it won't make the bike faster, improves the Lm'td where you have to pedal less and the gearing is less tilted towards vertical terrain.
Rear hub's are RPM limited. From that point onward torque drags, not pushes.
Even old as dirt, this stuff fascinates me !!!
This link shows the relative Power Curves of rear hub drives. Notice from '0' down you see negative torque values?
0 = 30.7mph (Zero Efficiency) and 0nm. At 32.31mph, you're dragging against '10nm's' (plus the weight of the machine).
Set the display controller value to 26" wheels, whatever and the true rpm of the rear wheel will 'produce' the same result.
If you can't increase the wheel size, game over.
Mid drive being different - the ring gear is (rpm limited) actually driving the rear wheel via a chain - a larger gear = more distance of chain moved per revolution.
Took me a bit to wrap my stubborn head around all this and I figured 'mid-drive are the way to go !!!'
Well sort of. Go to the LBS. They eat drivetrains.
If you shift, just getting on the cog when that power kicks in is pretty destructive.
Pedal one-quarter turn of the ring and BANG, big torque - right when the 11T on the cassette is just engaging the chain on it's third tooth and a 12T only has three teeth engaged.
You follow me?
Shifting technique is 'Pause, shift. Pedal one-eighth turn, pause then pedal (now fully engaged on the cog) and maybe cassette, ring and chain lasts 1000miles, not less than 300.
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Hub drives are more economical, require less maintenance and have a built in safety factor: if drivetrain fails, the throttle will get you home.
Yes, a 48t will be slightly taller. I advise against offsetting, changing the chain-line. Everything I read says it causes excessive wear and (often/ sooner or later) causes shifting problems. I've seen the effect in other applications.
A steel chain with a new (crooked) angle of contact at the interface of the gears; chewing up the alloy ring/ increasing chain wear on steel cogs - will seek to fit by abrading into that groove.
If the chain wears, next up is the derailleur. All these parts are relatively inexpensive, but IMO: still an expensive compromise to use a larger ring that won't make the machine any faster (ie: Bang for the buck).
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I'm sure you're studying up - and BTW, Big Congrats on repairing that MXUS!
Nothing on that machine is even slightly beyond your ability.
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I couldn't discern if a 48T would fit the Lm'td until I tried it.
Contrary to online instructions, I didn't have to increase the chain length with the Lm'td (44T to 48T, or with Gumbo (46T to 50T).
My only problem was finding a bash plate/ chain-ring guard for the 48T. You won't have that.
Here's the 50T on Gumbo
View attachment 142382

View attachment 142383
It made a 9% Difference.
Next up (1000miles down the road), installing a two-link longer chain and a 52T Ring.
View attachment 142384
That's the 46T. I've got the space.
With you, I'm a Flatlander with miles of flat Coast to cruise.

Fn'F
Thanks for the feedback FnF! Sounds like your new bike is working well and still providing opportunities to tinker. New 50T ring looks good. Whole darned bike looks great. I would kill to have a chain that clean.

I’m still sold on this simple cadence rear hub bomber of an ebike. Takes more than a “thermal incident” to dampen my enthusiasm. Now that I’ve dialed in my PAS, it’s a fast flat-landers dream bike.

I’m glad you advised against a chain line offset, as I had considered it. Interestingly, the R1U chainring FAQ suggests requesting a 45T ring when ordering the LMT’D. I’m not sure why; 1 tooth seems insignificant on a sprocket that big.

I also want to thank you for reminding me; the bike is fine just the way it is. In fact, I think I should be finding ways to use the low gears instead of trying to make the front ring 4 friggin teeth bigger. Maybe I’ll take up trials riding. Onward and upward…
 
Certainly Yank.
The new, titanium bike has amazing potential. I'm waiting on the programming cable from Germany to beef up 'Economy Level 1' slightly and make it perfect. Eco L2 (>160nm), I hit for long hills. Sports Mode's L1 - L3 ( +200nm), I've no idea what to use for. Maybe doing wheelies - for a block ? Both Cadence and Torque Sensor are programmable, so it's all on me, creating (and verifying) the profiles. Tinker, tinker.
A once in a lifetime treat.
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Don't get me wrong. Now that a 130BCD 48T Bash Plate is $10 on Aliexpress, it's well worth the trouble to measure the spacing, order and install a 48T. That plate was the only hurdle.
An effect I failed to mention: 44 > 48T, pedaling the same RPM you cover 2.2727 miles additional distance every 25 miles.
Potentially, adding (in MPC) a free charge every other month and providing 600 additional miles to the batteries lifespan over four years.
It could also come into play reducing wear factors, but the impact force being little more than pedaling another bicycle and largely less with a hub pulling some weight for us - it's of little consequence.
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'WhiteLightning 2-in-one chain lube/ cleaner' works well.
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"...rear hub bomber of an ebike". LOL 🤪.

Ride on and Happy Holidays !!!

Fn'F
 
Yes (and I apologize for not posting sooner). *** WARNING. THIS IS LONG AND BORING ***
The Controller: I've settled on Grin's Baserunner-L10, and Yes $220.00 is way too expensive.
Awaiting for some answers from Grin to clarify we can keep our KD218 displays. From what I can tell our displays are as good as it gets and Grin's B&W units not so much, so at $220 downgrading to a black and white display would be a deal breaker.
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Yesterday, I finished installing a twist throttle. It's much better than the 'thumb-breaker', and on the (correct) right side, which was a bit awkward at first. My major goal of making the bike actually cruise at a given speed has been achieved and now, 'Hell bent for leather, or decelerating' have become choices rather than the only modes available.
A couple quick comments on that installation: The &%$#*@ lock mechanism is very &%$#@ difficult to reinstall. I advise to scroll a line on the plastic bottom plate to show exactly how far forward the battery connector plate must be for the screw to align - then it will only take 10 or 20 tries instead of 50! You must reassemble the bottom (long) screw first and be sure the stiff wires from the plate are not causing a spatial conflict with the controller.
Also, the ground/ signal wires on the new throttle were incorrect on the cable's plug - which had larger size wires, a better quality plug and about 3 extra feet - so I cut the wires shorter, soldered them correctly and shrink fit wrapped.
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On to the Torque arms: I went with the "Adjustable Angle Torque Arm by hammer-ebikes" from uk_cycle_spares on ebay.
The (Super cool) seller accidentally left out the secondary arms, so I waited for them to ship. Shipping time was literally months and while I aged like a wine, waiting I decided 'Hmmmmmm, wouldn't a hole in that rack's steel bracket do that ???? So, I to drilled the 3mm steel plates connecting the Axiom Streamliner Disc DLX Bicycle Rack Pannier Carrier and bolted up the (pre-loaded) torque arms. Viola !!!
I told the evil demon trying to spin my hub, 'flex that, you ^%$#@. Demon's dilemma? That short plate is way stronger than the aluminum frame's attachment. So, if it breaks it'll be by shearing the frame attachment, and it was all hopeless anyhow (See more on plan 'B', below).
Did I say I was involved in building rally (and demolition derby) cars? You run it 'till it fails, bulletproof that, then crush the next weak link, bulletproof that and so on. You don't "fix" stuff that breaks, you make it stronger than the next ten weak links, break more stuff and try to destroy everything. Over, and over.
Yes, we crushed the competition. LOL
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My end plan is to fabricate two more small steel plates, w/ longer bolts (using 5mm spacers where required), creating a sandwich eliminating a secondary arm. Let's see how strong that aluminum attachment really is. The other, upper attach points are so ill spaced they're virtually useless and I just can't see them adding any strength, with the spacers required to fit flush.
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To complete the assembly, I used (Must Have ALERT) "Nord-lock" washers. Not cheap. Well worth it though.
Set-up: Fine spine side facing the aluminum frame> torque arm> second fine side facing torque arm and the coarse facing the R1U's Steel, automotive lug-nut.
A 200mile Inspection indicates zero movement since this installation method.
Note the washers. Pic 163213 shows a stock washer and two Nord-locks (Coarse sides out). That wear you see is how much that stock lock-washer was making contact !!! Same with photo (Stock washer and Nord-lock Fine side out)163109.
Look how little of the contact surface is marred? Really? 100NM of torque relying on that little contact?
Is there any amount one can torque that lug-nut down that could actually improve that situation, perhaps increase the contact surface from it's now unacceptable 20%, to even, say 30% ? The Lug-nut has even (way, way) coarser locking spines. Maybe 10% of it's surface is making contact with the washer. You want weak-link fail, there it is.
I also tried simply using Nord-lock washers, but upon disassembly, comparing to the dots I scrolled I detected movement. Another FAIL.
The torque arm on the derailer side had to be sanded down to eliminate clearance conflicts.
Never mind paint damage. When the hub spun, transporting it home in the back of a Tow truck meant scratches and when we tried to unlock that axle, anything those 1/2 drive tools touched they scratched.
I don't care because if the fix doesn't work and it spins again - with the baserunner pumping 80A Peak Phase Currents (~45-50A Continuous), I'll cut the aluminum dropouts off, weld drilled aluminum plates on and bolt up ballistic steel dropouts. Then when I finish, I'm going to strip and paint the frame in polyurethane and until then a scratch is a broken nail crisis.
IMHO a 40A controller would spin the stock set-up with ease. This motor is putting out maybe half it's rating with the stock controller. "Maybe", if that. 100nm is no joke. 173220 shows what you face - a spun axle. I'm not installing that Baserunner until I have that second plate installed.
The last point: Be sure to pre-load the arm before bolting down.
Visualize the wheel's going forward force pushing the opposite way, rearward, away from the frame. Adjust to tension, removing all slack in that direction and tighten down.
I highly recommend this Streamliner rack for our bikes. It's quality aluminum with steel brackets; heavy black finish; bolts right up and works to mount the torque arms perfectly ... $39 freewheel_bikes_madison on ebay. Even the arms are round steel stock with billet clamps , not cheesy flat steel like the rest - even Tubus.
And again, I cannot stress enough what great seller Ian of uk_cycle_spares is for the torque arm. Highly recommended and honest. This is buying on the ground floor, direct and exactly what it says it is.
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I've also replaced the stock 44T Chainring and guard ('bash-guard' to me) with a 48T 1048CD, Deckas Narrow Wide Chainring w/ custom, laser-cut (US Made) Bash-guard. Included a few photos below. Compare that ugly stock bash ring - LOL.
If anyone cares, I have full photos and the particulars. If anyone can tell me the name of the company that makes my bash-guard, please do. A custom shop, they seem to have disappeared.
It looks sick, the chain feels far smoother and the new 48 tooth cog, 9% larger than the stock 44 tooth ??? yes, I detect an added 2mph top end pedaling now - 31.5mph.
More on the rest coming: Laser lights/ wireless turn signals; F & R fenders; front racks (two types); HD Ursus double arm kickstand; (various brands) extender bars to mount display/ GoPro/ Lighting; the 20,000 lumen 18650 rechargeable, +11 hours at "a brightness cars will high beam you", detachable LED Headlight, and the ABUS A6000 (attached to the seat tube), which works nice, but (every damn time) is a real pain to open and close without the alarm squealing and you looking like a dolt.
My boomerang GPS tracer is not yet installed.
I have to remove the rear wheel, drill the frame and insert/ epoxy in standoffs to mount where I prefer (180 degrees behind the lock bracket, in front of rear wheel). I may change my mind, so not ready yet.
AND I LOVE the R1U Panniers (pics coming). Crazy room inside. Abercrombie Fitch quality. I can haul two sixer of 8.0% IPA, a bottle of Chardonnay and all the fixin's for a Rack-of-Lamb Easter Dinner for me and mine, easy - insulated and cold too!!
The Center of Gravity beats groceries on my rack by a mile.
Unfortunately, it's brackets make it +6" higher than my rack (great for hauling a rack battery !!!) which interferes with my Lamborghini class side laser taillights, so I'll have to fabricate a rod for the brackets and attach it to the rack. I assure you it won't be tacky, hose clamped, duct taped, or with a pink ribbon. I have solid aluminum rods that I may use. Half moons dremelled out at appropriate points and a 1" piece of same stock with same cut outs and a bolt through each side. Also, sewing a veclro strap on the bottom to attach to those neat slots on this Streamliner rack's bottom bracket (See Photos), YES !!! Then you can simply undo bottom strap and lift the whole shebang off the rack, sling over your shoulder and in true John Wayne style bring the chilled wine to your damsel !!!
Hard day, burned out hope this helps all. Anything I can add with, feel free to ask direct. Anything you can help me with PLEASE post.

Cavalga como o vento !!!

F n' F
Thanks for the details and explanations! Far from boring and great for us noobs with tinkering leanings. I found your bash guard- BBG. Here's a link: https://bbgbashguard.com/shop/ols/products/104-bcd-46t-48t
 
Thanks for the details and explanations! Far from boring and great for us noobs with tinkering leanings. I found your bash guard- BBG. Here's a link: https://bbgbashguard.com/shop/ols/products/104-bcd-46t-48t
Whoa !!! I had to use a 46 on my 48t ring. 48t was unavailable.
That bash ring is so much better than stock - or any other replacement I could locate that'd accommodate a 48t ring-gear.
Not flimsy pressed aluminum, that baby's billet and was $85 - then.
"BBG Bashguard". BBG stands for Badaracco Bash Guards. Made in Portland Oregon USA.
$30 is a steal !!!
One hell of a researcher, you found that part.
That's a small shop that mills 'world class, legacy' parts. Their mountain guards - except Superlights and ones with oval holes - are guaranteed for life no matter what.
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Experience w/ the Lm'td upgrades prepared me for the 50t I just installed on my mid-drive bike*.
Great time to be a fascinated noob - like me. So much has changed from 'bicycle' to eBike - and un-learning's much harder than learning afresh, We get a 'leg up'.
Being (a lifelong early adopter) retired from driving. I get to create mechanical art, exercising my mind and body.
Doubt I actually save money doing my own work, but I end up with the best parts, maintenance, a current education and real satisfaction.

Fn'F

PS. Pssst. Pass it on, and thanks that you did.

*Note: The LM'TD's actually faster and more nimble than my (now) $9k Superbike. LOL
It's 'Lotus (w/360hp) v. Lamborghini V12/ or Chrysler Big Block (w/800Hp)' situation.
 
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