Preparing for a new season - 2017

[Douglas Ruby]

I have been thinking through what I need to do to prepare my bike for a new riding season. It is cold here in New England and a bit snowy right now so I have plenty of time to service my 2015/16 base Turbo. I am not nearly hardy enough for serious winter riding.

Please note that my bike has just over 1300 miles. I swapped in a Shimano 11-speed XT derailleur and 11x40 cluster about 200 miles ago. Brakes pads had already been upgraded as has the battery. I also have a Thudbuster ST seat post and Specialized rack kit. The handlebar is a shortened carbon fiber with Ergon GP-5L grips. With the exception of the motor, this bike is functionally equivalent to the Turbo S. Just less power and a much longer range!

Here is the plan:

1. Charge battery and store off bike in warm basement. This battery is brand new and has most current 5.12 firmware that is supposed to solve the odometer reset issue.
2. Clean bike (it is pretty good)
3. Clean and re-lube chain. No wear issues since only 200 miles.
4. Clean rear cluster, front chain ring.
5. Clean and re-lube derailleur idler sprockets.
6. Check bottom bracket bearings.
7. New brake pads. Kool-Stop KS-D330K organic.
8. Update Garmin Edge 1000 firmware.
9. Tires..My Michelin Energy 700 x 35C (37-622) are showing some wear after 1200 miles, particularly the rear. Considering changing to Schwalbe Marathon Plus 700 x 38C (40-622).
10. Stem...Considering a Redshift Shockstop (90mm x 6 deg.).

Any other suggestion?

Doug

 

[Toynut]

Doug, I don't know what the control cable layout is on your ebike, but, I tend to inspect and lube the cables on my motorcycles on occasion. I don't know if you have sealed bearings in your steering stem or not, but lubing or checking free play in critical areas of your bike may also be something to consider.
Finally, a nice coat of quality automobile or bike wax on the bike couldn't hurt, either.

 

[Douglas Ruby]

Doug, I don't know what the control cable layout is on your ebike, but, I tend to inspect and lube the cables on my motorcycles on occasion. I don't know if you have sealed bearings in your steering stem or not, but lubing or checking free play in critical areas of your bike may also be something to consider.
Finally, a nice coat of quality automobile or bike wax on the bike couldn't hurt, either.

Toynut,

Great suggestions. Actually, since the brakes are hydraulic, don't need to deal with those cables. The rear derailleur cable was new, clean, and lubed when installed with the switchover from SRAM to Shimano, 200 miles ago. I will check out stem bearings and headset adjustment, good suggestion.

 

[James Kohls]

Great list, Doug. I will certainly be doing a full bike workup once the winter is over and possibly mid-winter depending on how much abuse my bike takes. I've been cleaning the drive train and brake components after every ride. 1,000 miles seemed to be the limit of my brake pads during the summer/fall season, so I'll have a nice comparison of how bad winter wears on them.

As someone who hates flats (I've had about 6 now—2 pinch flats hitting potholes and 4 punctures), I switched my summer tires just before the end of the season to Schwalbe Energizer Plus. They don't have the extra 2mm of flat protection, but they have amazing low rolling resistance for such a beefy tire. It really smoothed my ride both in comfort and vibration. They are taller than the stock tires. I'm guessing the Marathon Plus' will require even more vertical clearance. May have to do some adjustments on your fenders. I don't have the Specialized fender kit, so I'm not sure how much clearance they offer.

 

[Douglas Ruby]

And the Energizer Plus are nearly $20/tire cheaper! The OEM on my Turbo were 622-45 and I will be going 622-40 (my current tires are 622-37) so fender clearance should not be an issue.

 

[reoutput]

Check the rear derailleur cable well. During the last stint my bike was in the stand, I had the bike perpendicular to the ground and noticed that the cable was frayed just past the bend on the derailleur. I would not have caught this normally because of the position of the fray being under the bend.