Please Critique the 2019 Trek Powerfly 5 as a Practical Car Replacement Strategy
- Thread starter BikeMike
- Start date
Bruce Arnold
Well-Known Member
I don't think this is on the up and up. I'm not calling "troll" because there's no effort to start any drama. It just doesn't pass the sniff test for me.
Carry on.
- You ask newbie questions, and talk about your pedal bike experience, and then say you've owned 7 ebikes, but you don't say what they were or how you've used them or any information like that which would help us to answer your questions.
- You talk about braking power, but if you've had 7 ebikes, you know what the brakes will do.
- You ask how much you can carry, as though you've never carried anything before.
- You emphasize using the ebike as a car replacement and doing your shopping, but then you say that cargo is secondary.
- When someone answers a question, you've got a reply that sounds like you already know the answer, so why ask the question?
Carry on.
Yes, I did consider the Burley Nomad. I initially wanted a Trek Super Commuter+ 7. The axle is just 9mm, which I could not believe. It took a lot of research to realize that the Trek Powerfly has a standard 12mm rear axle, that is compatible with Burley Nomad. Trek actually sells the axles, but they are only listed in the store catalog, not online. I notice you attach to the rear axle.
So, the problem with a trailer is the Trek 300 pound weight limit. I suspect some legal liability surrounding a 20mph bikes with a combined weight of 300 pounds. I weigh 210 pounds. The bike is 55 pounds. The trailer is 15 pounds. That only leaves me with 20 pounds of groceries.
But, yes that is best solution for a lighter person.
I test rode seven ebikes, never owned an ebike. I do own two pedal bikes that cost more than a very expensive eBike. So, I really care about bike technology, because I make a big investment in them. I consider myself to be a strong cyclist.
I have carried weight in my backpack. I am very conscious of weight distribution from 25mph accidents on my ordinary pedal bikes.
The objective stated in the title is to vet the idea of car replacement. I was hoping to have a sophisticated conversation with people at my own level of knowledge or experience.
In my opinion, a single ebike as a car replacement is a myth. I was skeptical whether an eBike could serve two purposes, because ordinary bikes are very much single purpose. eBikes seem to be the same as ordinary bike in this regard. A big consideration for me is the cost of a second battery. If I buy two eBikes, then the batteries must be the same. That was my main initial concern.
I think the best cargo solution for me is an ordinary pedal trike. Trikes are stable. I only have to pedal for a mile, that is very easy for me.
I am still uncertain whether the Trek Powerfly is the best solution. One reason is Bosch is supposed to release ABS brakes for eBikes this fall. I ride through several tunnels that are sometimes flooded or muddy. Fishtailing at the other end of the tunnel is scary. The tunnels go under major thorough fares and and Interstate 470. The tunnels are long and dark. In winter, water drips into the tunnels and forms giant ice cycles on the road surface. My mother lives on the other side of that bike path.
I coast down the hills in neighborhood at 30+ mph every day. I get tossed around quite a bit. Bike handling is something that I am keenly aware of.
Does this explanation put you at ease? Or do you still suspect something?
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The idea I had was to use the bike and not maintain it. But it wasn't realistic and I've had to learn (or relearn) some of the maintenance basics. Truing a wheel isn't that difficult. Neither is indexing a derailleur. Hydraulic brakes can sometimes be little divas with their own mysteries. And then there are the electrics. I figure if the drive breaks and I'm convinced it's a mechanical issue, I will try to fix it. But if it's an electronic issue, there's probably not much I can do. It's proprietary stuff...
Amusingly an acquaintance tried my Haibike Trekking because she owns the same bike in the 25km/h version and wanted to see the difference with my 45km/h version. At the end of the ride she gets off and tells me that my derailleur is infinitely better adjusted than hers. So I indexed her bike the same way as mine and now she's super happy about it. Except that now everyone and his brother wants me to adjust their gears. Run for the hills...
BTW, I'm sure you'll be fine with the Bosch, not trying to scare you. But just remember the necessity for a plan B. That was really my point. Even with the best bikes, stuff goes wrong...
Have you shown her the barrel adjuster trick, so she change the indexing while riding?
Let me ask you about your philosophy for buying a bike. Can you tell which bikes are suitable by just looking at the wheels?
I find it easy to eliminate most bikes by simply studying the tires carefully. The tires determine the inner rim width. The frame is built around wheels. Without adequate disc brakes the wheels are useless. If you know the best tire for your situation, you can pretty much eliminate 90% of all bikes. A little bit of knowledge can lead to very accurate decision making.
The tire I used to eliminate eBikes is the Schwable Super Moto-X. I did not get too wrapped up in electronics, because I cared primarily about the tire contact patch. But without adequate brakes, any contact patch is irrelevant.
After eliminating bikes by the tire, then I focus on the disc brakes, which are part of the wheel.
My initial choice was the Trek Super Commuter+ 7, based on tires. But the 9mm axle would not support a 12mm trailer connection. So, I started the process over with mountain ebikes, without even considering brakes, or anything beyond the wheel.
So, now let's apply this simple weakest link process of elimination to electronics. Which component is the weak link in the system? I believe the battery is the weak link, but I could be wrong. So, the initial question is who makes the most reliable battery pack and battery management system, not motor. I could be talking beyond my knowledge level, but that is my REASONING process.
I am certain a scientist would start with battery chemistry, above all else. At least, that is Tesla's approach. So, If I have to gamble on someone's technology, then I bet on the company with the best battery technology. I assume Bosch has the best battery technology, but ** I would love to be proven wrong **, before I invest two thousand dollars in batteries. Bosch may not have the best motor.
The batteries will cost me the most money, in the long run. I start with two batteries, not one. Two batteries for greater distance and less wear on the battery. I know a lot about battery technology from cell phones. You never want to drain the battery below 40%. So, I will invest in the Nyon display that gives me an exact battery charge percentage read out. I do not know if I can do this, but I will probably charge the battery on the bike with the Nyon display on. I do not want to charge the battery beyond 90%, either.
At least, That is how you make you cell phone battery last longest. The worst thing you can do to a cell phone is drain it completely and then completely recharge it to 100%.
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indianajo
Well-Known Member
A trike provides additional stability from falling over to the side, at the cost of higher frontal drag. I have no trouble keeping the bike straight. It is just the front wheel whips sideways on obstructions, the tire grabs the pavement, and the decelerating bike throws me over the handlebar chin first. I've tried to buy a bike with addtional trail (caster) in the front fork as well as additional length between steering tube and bottom rail to clear the tire. No bike builder has any idea what I'm talking about, and none I've contacted builds his own front forks. All 26" front forks for sale on the internet have the same trail. I rode a 26"x2" bike in the sixties, my mother's 1945 Firestone, which was absolutely stable without hands through chugholes or whatever. No tendency to turn sideways. Bike was scrapped about 1980, way to heavy to ride anywhere but pancake flat Houston.
Another negative for trike or trailer, In my weekly commute I ride about 5 miles on a 55 mph highway on an 18" wide berm, with pavement defects narrowing the path down to 3" in some cases. The tractor trailers rarely give me any extra room, and absolutely never slow down for opposing traffic. A trike is absolutely too wide for that. The bodaboda sticks out only 10" from centerline. Also, the wind is picking up, which used to go dead from June 7 to Aug 31. Welcome global warming. I fought a 13 mph headwind last week, extending my 3.5 hour ride to 4.4. That is hard on the butt. The reason I'm trying to upgrade the bodaboda with a power wheel - to maintain 10 mph whatever the wind. Also to ride 40 miles in 4 hours to concerts in Madison or a party in Acme, IN. (country property is in NewMarket IN north Clark Cty, city house is in Jeffersonville 2 miles from I65 bridge across the Ohio).
BMS (battery management system) is internal in the battery for the 48 v 15 AH one I bought. There is a board under the shrink wrap that cuts out some stacks in final charge. Some batteries are infamous for having a computer in the battery, bionx is an infamous example (now bankrupt). I wouldn't expect one of those batteries to be compatible with any other system. I'm planning to mount the battery on the front rack, to weigh the front wheel down more and provide steady caster effect. I weighed the bodaboda loaded with two platform (human) scales last month, got 100 lb rear tire 26 lb front tire without me on the bike. That was without 6 liters on the front rack, which I usually have outbound. With the extra space in the frame behind the seat, my weight will bias to the front wheel and perhaps provide more effective caster effect on obstructions. 7 months down and OEM rear tire worn out , so far no problems with the front wheel whipping sideways. .
Edit after your last post. I require rim compatibility with 2.1" wide tire for my cargo bike. With 55 lb air that will carry 60 lb rear cargo with no hitting of rim on pavement. I ride the thick tread off road tires because they have longer interval without flats than city tires. City tire the bodaboda came with went flat after 7 months & ~ 1000 miles, thread was a little thin so I replaced it with a thick bump treac tire. Flats with 50 lb supplies on the bike are a P***. I do carry full set tools, two tubes, and an air pump. (one tube, made in *****, can blow up right out of the box, happend one time).
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John from Connecticut
Well-Known Member
Please Critique the 2019 Trek Powerfly 5 as a Practical Car Replacement Strategy
Finding a “commuter” bike with decent “cargo” capability might be an unreasonable tradeoff. Cargo and commuter bikes have different braking characteristics. Good braking requires low placement of weight. The top platform of a rear rack is too high to be the ideal location to carry weight. A rack container may also prevent you from making evasive maneuvers by moving your weight over the back wheel. I often reflexively get off my seat to shift my weight back backwards.
My car replacement adventure starts with a few steps into the foggy realm of eBike transportation. For the past two years, I rode my ordinary pedal bicycles three times the distance that I drove my car. I rode 100+ miles per week through the Denver winters. I naturally pedal between 20 to 25mph on the flats, so I prefer a pedal bike over a motorized bike, under normal conditions, loads and time constraints.
I sold my car, so the cost of a new eBike and a second battery is not an issue. I feel that only 20 to 40 days per year, e.g., 10%, are completely unrideable for me. I am willing to take a bus or taxi for the other days that are only manageable in one direction, e.g., (25%). The biggest impediments for me are midday heat, wind, daylight hours and wet surfaces.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...-hardtail/powerfly-5/p/23180/?colorCode=black
I reasons that favor buying the 2019 Trek Powerfly 5 are:
- The battery in enclosed in the frame, which offers some protection from the elements.
- The hardtail is the only option that allows for a full rack, which allows me to carry a second battery above the wheel.
- The 12mm rear axle allows a Burley trailer to be attached.
- The rims have a 40mm inner width, that allows for 2.4 inch tires
- The brakes can be upgraded to dual brake pads, for adequate stopping power with 300 pounds total weight, including cargo.
- The Nyon display allows me to manually configure battery power for different assist levels.
- The Nyon displays battery usage as a percent, to maximize battery life by never falling below a 40% charge.
- The kickstand supports up to 250 pounds of weight to load cargo onto the bike.
- I could adapt the Trek Bontrager Interchange base plate to support a cargo box on the rack.
- The rims are tubeless.
- Fender attachement bosses
The reasons why I might reject the 2019 Trek Powerfly 5 are:
- Walk mode is disabled by Trek, which makes the bike dangerous for crossing busy intersections when it weighs 100 pounds with cargo. This thought actually frightens me.
- The 100mm front fork travel may not be adequate for abrupt stops at 300 pounds.
- I might not find a cargo bike with a compatible 500wH Bosch Powerpack battery.
- The total weight limit for the bike is 300 pounds. I have not gotten an exact explanation for the weight limit, but I can only imagine the limit is related to stopping distance at 20mph for 300 pounds.
- At a lean 210 pounds, the 55 pound bike might be impractical for me, with a 300 pound weight limit.
- The maximum cargo capacity may be inconvenient for weekly perishable food shopping.
- Bosch has production ABS brakes for eBikes, which might be worth waiting a few months for.
- Evidently, the light wires cannot be internally integrated?
- No upgrade available for 15 tooth ring, apparently.
- Braking for heavy cargo necessitates the weight be distributed low over the rear wheel, rather than high over the rear rack.
Carrying 30 pounds of food per trip seems reasonable. The tubeless Powerfly tires are 2.4 inches wide. I imagine the tires make a stable contact patch to balance heavy weight because the tubeless tires are ridden at low air pressure levels.
Paying Walmart $10 to deliver food once or twice per month for bulky or heavy items is necessary without a cargo bike. Making two trips per week by bike is not a problem, because I can bike to Walmart in less than ten minutes on my ordinary pedal bike.
The entire 1.5 mile return route is a consistent 2% grade. I will brake the entire way back to keep the speed under 15 mph. I coast the entire route at about 15 to 20mph on my pedal bike. I am waiting to hear back from Trek about the most appropriate brakes. I would love to hear your suggestions.
I ordered the same brakes as on the highest specified mountain bike, the Powerfly 9.7. The Shimano MT520 4-piston Kolben hydraulic disc brakes would replace the stock Shimano MT200 hydraulic disc on the PowerFly 5. I believe the rotors are 203mm?
Since I do not know how to calculate stopping power, I decided to err on the conservative side. Perhaps, these brakes are overkill and will throw me over the handlebars? I reason that I need at least two brake pads for each caliper to keep the wear and heat to a minimum. 203mm rotors dissipate heat best. My Yeti ASR-C has Shimano Deore XT hydraulic brakes with 180mm rotors. I love the brakes.
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I assume the front shocks will have enough travel for stopping with a 300 pound load? Waiting to hear back from Trek. I would love to read your feedback. Details:
- RockShox Judy Silver TK, Solo Air, rebound adjust,
- TurnKey hydraulic lockout, tapered steerer,
- G2 Geometry w/51mm offset, Boost110, 100mm travel
Some other items in the order that I appreciate feedback about are listed below:
- Nyon display to manually optimize battery power levels and battery life for different modes.
- A second battery for longer distance and redundancy in case of failure.
- Kickstand
- The same light as on the Super Commuter+ 8
- Integrated Supernova M99 Pure+ Headlight (1,000 Lumen, Light Sensor Mode Control),
- Integrated Supernova E3 3-LED Backlight
- The tubeless tire most similar to Schwalbe Super Moto-X, 27.5x2.4˝. Waiting to hear back from Trek.
I hope to fit 30 pounds of food into these rack containers, that seem quite small. I would love to hear what you think about the carrying capacity of these baskets and bag.
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Bontrager BackRack Disc | Trek Bikes
www.trekbikes.com
Enhance your cycling experience with Bontrager BackRack Disc. Shop now for FREE shipping on orders over $49!
This pannier basket easily attaches any Electra rear rack. is: (12x12x9 in). Unsure whether it attaches to Bontrager Interchange system.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...-rack-pannier-basket/p/12612/?colorCode=black
View attachment 24072
Electra Steel Mesh Rear Rack Pannier Basket | Trek Bikes
www.trekbikes.com
Enhance your cycling experience with Electra Steel Mesh Rear Rack Pannier Basket.
(Link Removed - No Longer Exists)
Hello BikeMike,
You have done a remarkable job of researching the Trek Powerfly 5. The best I've ever seen on any bike . There's little I can add, but I'll try.
I own and ride a Trek Powerfly 7 hardtail which is very similar to the 5. I ride my exclusively for enjoyment on hardpacked Rails to Trails and some roads, but no single track 'real mounting biking'...... I absolutely love my Powerfly 7 and would not trade it for anything. It's so much fun, it's solid, very stable and the Bosch CX Performance drive drain will climb a brick wall.
I swapped out the knobbies for Schwalbe Marthon Plus MTB 'Flatless'. I have had no problems. I really like them. I installed a Kinet Seatpost
and would not be without it https://cirruscycles.com. If I have any grips about my Powerfly 7 is the speed limitation of 20mph, but I knew that going in. I also have and ride a Trek XM700+ commuter, again which I love. That's my 'go fast' bike. It's a Class 3 28 mph. Combined I have 3200 miles on both bikes in the last year and I have had zero problems...none.
Lastly Trek service via my LBS is fantastic. I've told this story a bunch of times, but when my TreK Powerfly 7 arrived the handlebar controller
had been damaged in shipment. My LBS contacted Trek, the Controller was backordered. Rather then me have to wait around for the controller to arrive, Trek shipped another Powerfly 7 from Wisconsin to CT and I was riding in four days....Now who does that ? I hope this was helpful.
John from CT
You obviously have got the bike dynamics nailed. What comes to mind is that a full suspension bike has best traction. I have a Yeti ASC-R cross country bike. That bike is not only super fast, but the wheels stick to the ground.
I run tubeless tires that I can run at lower pressures. I really like the traction the tubeless tires offer.
I view eBikes as electric scooters. Scooters have full suspensions. I want a rack, so that rules out a full suspension. A hard tail is more efficient when pedaling uphill.
When I hit a speed bump at high speed, I stand up and move back over the rear wheel. I also keep my arms loose, so I can transfer the forward pressure into the handle bars. I try to absorb the bump with my legs as shock absorbers.
But you probably know all of that basic stuff.
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John,
Thanks, I needed to hear that. I will be somewhat dependent upon Trek, so I need to know I can rely on them. The impression that I got from the shop is that I can trust them. I just need to specify exactly what I need.
Do you think I would be better off with the Powerfly 7, like yours? I have dropped the cargo requirement for the Powerfly 5. So, now I need to reassess the entire situation.
I would use the bike primarily during foul weather for 24 mile round trips to my mother's area, which in near the RTD train station. Strong wind or time constraint is the primary motivating factor. The vertical change is a fairly consistent incline over rolling hills, for less than 1,000 feet in altitude. When I need to save time or energy, I ride 7.5 miles in both directions, on suburban streets and bike paths to the RTD station in my town.
I typically ride my mountain bike in my neighborhood for fitness. We have many parks the Powerfly would be well suited to. I am more pressured by time, so I only ride for an hour or so. I try to go for short rides every chance I get.
Thanks,
Mike
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Gator
Well-Known Member
Have you considered this EBike? Trek Police; If anything is going to have the load bearing and braking ability you want it is probably this one. It is based on the Powerfly.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...ountain-bikes/police/police-electric/p/22241/
Nova Haibike
Well-Known Member
If I was looking to replace a car I would get the Tern GSD.
Have you considered this EBike? Trek Police; If anything is going to have the load bearing and braking ability you want it is probably this one. It is based on the Powerfly.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/...ountain-bikes/police/police-electric/p/22241/
Yes. I only noticed it at the Trek shop in the catalog. I use the bike paths heavily. The CO bike paths are restricted to Class 1. It does come closer to my needs than the two other Trek bikes.
I cannot take chances. My back window overlooks a bike path. The Sheriff regularly drives his SUV on the bike path. Lots of pedestrians on the bike path, too. I do not want to annoy anyone.
The tern looks like a practical bike, that certainly favors cargo. Would you ride it regularly for 15-25 mile round trips, in hilly areas?
The specs on the bike look great! The tires are great, but how are 20" wheels to exert a lot of torque into? I am used to 29" wheels. I am six feet tall, so the 29ers work well. I also have 650B wheels. I could get all of the eBikes up to 27mph from a standstill in a parking lot, with the motor off. I don't imagine i could do that on 20" wheels?
I have targeted 40mm inner width rims. I am looking for 2.25 to 2.5 inch wide tires. I am looking for a foul weather bike, like ice and snow.
I found 2.8 inch tires too big, like i could not lean into the bike. The tires seemed to want to do something different than what i intended. It was like the tires want to go straight, when I wanted to veer off at an angle. I felt like i would be unable to swerve out of the way of an unexpected situation.
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Nova Haibike
Well-Known Member
I don't know. Me personally, I tend to ride aggressively, but I only ride for fun (although when I did commute I rode with my hair on fire also).
That's why I brought it up; it seems like a nearly ideal, practical bike.
I have never owned a bike with 20" wheels. Obviously they are not going to roll as well as larger wheels. But the bike is not made for speed, so it may not be a big deal...unless you are used to always riding in "hammer mode." If you are that kind of rider, then the Powerfly (or some other sporty bike) would be a better choice.
Yes, you know. I do like to ride fast, whenever the situation permits. I ride mostly for fun. I live in suburbia. I have to tone it down on the densely utilized paths. Frightening people is uncool. It happens everyday. Nobody wants to cause friction. Everyone seeks some type of solice on the bike paths.
I would rather double my distance, so i can do my thing. I hope an ebike would allow me to go closer to the outskirts, where fewer pedestrians walk.
I got pulled over one night,for riding on a dirt path. The light made it seem like the bike was a motorcycle from the distance. Then you have to explain yourself. Everyone looks and feels like a fool. Lucky for me that i was not on a class 3 bike. Then the trouble would begin in earnest.
Avoiding pedestrians and cars is an advantage of an ebike. I am not worried about other cyclists. I could take more out of the way routes with an ebike.
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D
Deleted member 18083
Guest
Mike ...
Here are some get-me-out-of-trouble modifications and additions that I have made to my Powerfly 5 - together with my musings:
- Tyres: I've treated the Powerfly to a pair of Schwalbe Marathon Plus MTB (57-622) tyres with Slime-filled tubes. About ten days ago I punctured on my regular rail trail ride and, in attempting to remove the Bontragers, learned the true meaning of "impossible". After a taxi ride back home and a settling cup of rooibos tea, it took more than twenty minutes to relieve the wheel of its accursed cling-fast rubber friend - this being accomplished with some serious assistance from a Park Tool PTS-1 Tire Seater and a pair of Lezyne Chromoly Saber Levers.
- Pump: Lezyne Digital Alloy Drive attached to the seat stay with Zefal DooDads.
- Tool Bottle: Zefal Z Box tool bottle (for tube & puncture kit) secured in an Arundel Sideloader bottle cage.
- Rear Light: Cygolite Hot Shot Pro 150.
- Lock: AXA Block XXL frame ring lock and chain. My thoughts on frame locks can be found elsewhere in the EBR Forum : If you had to choose one lock...
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Sounds like a fiasco. I broke down in an industrial section in downtown Denver once. The bike path was closed for repairs. The detour went past some construction company. A truck spilled nails on the street. I had no idea whether i was in a bad neighborhood. I just pushed the bike for a couple of miles back to the bike path. I fixed the flat on the bike path. I went tubeless ever since. Never want another experience like that again. I was 15 miles from home.
That's one reason why i want to carry a second battery. I read that a second battery should be kept in a metal case. I will have a rack and a rack case big enough to hold a 15" laptop.
I am trying to decide whether a top tube backpacking bag is better for transporting a second battery than in the rack case?
I figure a foam liner for the bottom of the case might cushion the battery?
I have an attached garage. I will probably have the ADT system enabled. I live in a second floor condo, so i might not hear someone breaking in at night. Good insurance is paramount.
The RTD train station rents bike lockers, which are fully enclosed. I think i need to rent a locker. I doubt i could quickly board with a 55 pound bike. For that matter, i think lifting 55 pounds onto the RTD bus rack would also be inconvenient.
Mike
The Yuba Spicy Curry has a 48V battery. Are 36V batteries, i.e., Bosch PowerTube, compatible?
https://electricbikereview.com/yuba/spicy-curry/
https://electricbikereview.com/yuba/spicy-curry/
I heard back from the Trek store. They think a trailer will work, because the 300 pound weight limit has some leeway, being a mountain bike. They claim the bike will have more wear, tear and maintenance.
They did not recommend making brake upgrades.
The main thing that bothers me is the disabled walk mode. Getting across six lanes at a busy intersection is stressful, when you have to push 100+ pounds across the street. I dare not ride the bike with an attached trailer, because I lose my pedestrian right of way privileges.
So, is this a car replacement? I do not know why I am reluctant make a strong assertion. Probably. Certainly more likely, than unlikely.
The bike and trailer will satisfy my weekly food shopping needs. So, I guess the trailer will satisfy my cargo needs.
My second need is a foul weather bike, e.g., strong wind, wet surface, etc.... The motor, 2.4" tires and hardtail fork are certainly an improvement.
Getting around faster in a 12 mile radius is less certain. I will not go faster on the downhill leg. However, I will go significantly faster on the uphill return leg.
Will I use the bike for recreation? Probably not. However, the big benefit is the ability to commute on the outlying bike paths and roads that have less pedestrians and cars. This is big winner for me.
Will i continue to use my carbon Specialized Diverge for commuting? Yes, because the bike is so much fun. Unclear what the percentage difference will be in good weather. Never in foul weather.
Here's my car replacement list:
They did not recommend making brake upgrades.
The main thing that bothers me is the disabled walk mode. Getting across six lanes at a busy intersection is stressful, when you have to push 100+ pounds across the street. I dare not ride the bike with an attached trailer, because I lose my pedestrian right of way privileges.
So, is this a car replacement? I do not know why I am reluctant make a strong assertion. Probably. Certainly more likely, than unlikely.
The bike and trailer will satisfy my weekly food shopping needs. So, I guess the trailer will satisfy my cargo needs.
My second need is a foul weather bike, e.g., strong wind, wet surface, etc.... The motor, 2.4" tires and hardtail fork are certainly an improvement.
Getting around faster in a 12 mile radius is less certain. I will not go faster on the downhill leg. However, I will go significantly faster on the uphill return leg.
Will I use the bike for recreation? Probably not. However, the big benefit is the ability to commute on the outlying bike paths and roads that have less pedestrians and cars. This is big winner for me.
Will i continue to use my carbon Specialized Diverge for commuting? Yes, because the bike is so much fun. Unclear what the percentage difference will be in good weather. Never in foul weather.
Here's my car replacement list:
- Fenders
- Rear rack
- Bontrager Interchange Rear rack trunk bag
- Tubless Tires with tread like Schwable Super Moto-X
Not now - Hydraulic Brakes like my Shimano XT Deore 180mm- ? Top tube bag and metal container to carry a second battery, rather than rack container?
- Kickstand
- Lights like Super Commuter+ 8
- Nyon display
- Interchange rack Baskets
- Pedals -
- Second Battery
- ? Bontrager Interchange base plate to adapt a box to rack
- Burley 12mm Axle ( https://burley.com/product/thru-axle/ )
- Burley Nomad
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