This is a heads up for anyone that has a 2020 Yamaha Moro or equivalent display. I purchased a PearTune MSO Yamaha PW-X/SE/TE/ST/X2 off Ebay after specifically asking Kat if it will work. I was told it would, turns out it doesn’t ! The problem is with the connectors. There are four sets of connectors that are supposed to be plug n play, the two wire white connector is hooked up to the hub speed drive plugs. This works fine, but when you look for the gray 5 wire plug that comes from the display it’s not there anywhere !! I told Kat about this and he said he has never seen such connectors before. I was told to look harder so I started to pull the wire that has a black connector leading up to the display, that was a mistake. There was another connector about halfway up the frame that pulled apart as I was trying to fish it out. Finally I got it and it’s totally wrong as well. I had a heck of a time refishing it back through the frame I ended up pulling the dropper cable way back and 2hrs later it was back in place. I installed some shrink tube on the connector just incase. So here I am with my brand spanking new Moro Pro in pieces and no joy. I have contacted Kat further and have asked for a refund... Don’t buy this set up for your 2020 Yamaha branded bike, it will Not work.
PearTune MSO Yamaha PW-X/SE/TE/ST/X2 Will NOT work on the new Yamaha Moro Pro
- Thread starter Jaspy
- Start date
Hmm I had my bike apart to try to install a light, and of course mine (which is the Japanese model, YPJ <T Pro) has the same connectors as yours.
Probably just the connectors are different between the Bikes used in Yamaha bikes vs. 3rd party bikes with Yamaha motors.
Basically, there are three connectors: Motor power/sensing, speed sensing, and serial communication/power to the head unit.
Apparently the Yamaha version also doesn't have a separate lamp power output, but some power can probably be taken from the head unit cable, since it supplies extra power for the USB anyway.
Also, for the person who mentioned bearing wear, battery loss, etc.
a. Going up a very long steep hill will kill your battery just as much as going fast, and that is something you can easily do already.
b. Yamaha does release a 45KPH version of this motor, where basically just the software is different.
The limits are about making it legal to ride on the street as a bike vs. moped.
I have a street legal S-Pedelec which is fast without modding, and there is nothing super special about the bearings, etc. The battery does of course get used up faster is I set it to support up to high speeds. I can make it 60 - 80 Km on my Yamaha even in high mode with a lot of hills. I can make it maybe 25 on my SpeedBike, going around 30kph the whole time. I don't know if the batteries are the same capacity or not, this is just anecdotal - my point is mainly that you can actually buy "eBikes" that aren't limited, and usually only the software is different.
Probably just the connectors are different between the Bikes used in Yamaha bikes vs. 3rd party bikes with Yamaha motors.
Basically, there are three connectors: Motor power/sensing, speed sensing, and serial communication/power to the head unit.
Apparently the Yamaha version also doesn't have a separate lamp power output, but some power can probably be taken from the head unit cable, since it supplies extra power for the USB anyway.
Also, for the person who mentioned bearing wear, battery loss, etc.
a. Going up a very long steep hill will kill your battery just as much as going fast, and that is something you can easily do already.
b. Yamaha does release a 45KPH version of this motor, where basically just the software is different.
The limits are about making it legal to ride on the street as a bike vs. moped.
I have a street legal S-Pedelec which is fast without modding, and there is nothing super special about the bearings, etc. The battery does of course get used up faster is I set it to support up to high speeds. I can make it 60 - 80 Km on my Yamaha even in high mode with a lot of hills. I can make it maybe 25 on my SpeedBike, going around 30kph the whole time. I don't know if the batteries are the same capacity or not, this is just anecdotal - my point is mainly that you can actually buy "eBikes" that aren't limited, and usually only the software is different.
Oh I almost forgot to mention... if you really want to hack your bike to go faster, there is an easy and low tech way which doesn't require any electronics.
This is well known in Japan, but... all of the bikes have optical or magnetic sensors, which have a number of holes or magnets around in a circle.
If the bike originally had, say, 24 magnets, then it reads 24 magnets as one full rotation... and you were to replace the magnet wheel with one that had only 12 magnets, then it would think you were going only half as fast as you were. (And thus offer the assist it should at that speed). f.e. if you were going 24 kph it should give you 0 assist, but if it thought you were going half that speed (i.e. 12kph), then it would give you most of the assistance. You can alter this ratio by altering the number of magnets to make the change subtle or massive. The only real limitations are:
1. The magnets (or holes) have to be even around the wheel)
2. The speed display, etc. will also be affected.
Still, if you really want to play, you can use parts (Magnets & epoxy) from the dollar store and then put it back the way it was when you're done. Some online shops in Japan have people selling these "Conversion kits" all the time. Since they are perfectly legal to use on private property, they are also sold openly.
Here is a picture of the magnet spinny thing inside the uhm.. cassette (?) for the MT Pro / Moro Pro. (Unmodified stock part)
This is well known in Japan, but... all of the bikes have optical or magnetic sensors, which have a number of holes or magnets around in a circle.
If the bike originally had, say, 24 magnets, then it reads 24 magnets as one full rotation... and you were to replace the magnet wheel with one that had only 12 magnets, then it would think you were going only half as fast as you were. (And thus offer the assist it should at that speed). f.e. if you were going 24 kph it should give you 0 assist, but if it thought you were going half that speed (i.e. 12kph), then it would give you most of the assistance. You can alter this ratio by altering the number of magnets to make the change subtle or massive. The only real limitations are:
1. The magnets (or holes) have to be even around the wheel)
2. The speed display, etc. will also be affected.
Still, if you really want to play, you can use parts (Magnets & epoxy) from the dollar store and then put it back the way it was when you're done. Some online shops in Japan have people selling these "Conversion kits" all the time. Since they are perfectly legal to use on private property, they are also sold openly.
Here is a picture of the magnet spinny thing inside the uhm.. cassette (?) for the MT Pro / Moro Pro. (Unmodified stock part)
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