Ebiker01
Well-Known Member
Thank you for taking the time to write and enlighten me about their differences. I'm new to this world, the emtb. world..
Yamaha unveils new full-suspension electric mountain bike
- Thread starter FlatSix911
- Start date
Stefan Mikes
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Are you sure, Chris? Maestro is this one:
Trance E+
Stance E+
Maestro is the Giant brand name for the type of the rear suspension link. Another link is found in Specialized FS bikes:
FSR link, once only found in Specialized and Norco bikes until the patent expired.
Trance E+
Stance E+
Maestro is the Giant brand name for the type of the rear suspension link. Another link is found in Specialized FS bikes:
FSR link, once only found in Specialized and Norco bikes until the patent expired.
Browneye
Well-Known Member
Maestro Full Suspension Mountain Bike Technology | Giant Bicycles Official site
Maestro full suspension bicycle technology expands your mountain bike’s capabilities and boosts your performance. From ripping-fast trail bikes to burly downhill machines, it’s an adaptable rear suspension platform that gives you more control, traction, comfort and speed.
www.giant-bicycles.com
Maestro is a four-pivot system, a more compliant range, with better pedaling support. Yes, there's a difference.
There's also a BIG difference in suspension action and damping control on the higher end forks.
The Stance is their entry-level model.
I'm not sure how they compare to MORO!!
D
Deleted member 4210
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The 'futuristic' part of the article is obviously based on the writers ignorance that split frame designs have been used on motorcycles with similar suspensions, for oh I'd say at least 40 years.
Yamaha releases prices/specs for its futuristic new full-suspension electric bikes
Yamaha recently announced its first ever full-suspension electric mountain bikes, each of which comes with a novel frame design. While...electrek.co
Full suspension ebikes are a real challenge to accomplish and to build it well, and have it remain reliable for years in the 'future.' Yamaha appears to have gotten this right and the price is no surprise, which is what I would expect a real full suspension ebike to cost. I would not question this design one iota, with their eons of experience in moto-cross and motorcycles etc. Their motocross products are well known as being the best of the best in the industry. Super tough and super reliable.
D
Deleted member 4210
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The Moro is $4499 and the Moro Pro is $5499.
FlatSix911
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Looks like Crazy Lenny has both models in stock now.
Yamaha YDX Moro Pro - Crazy Lenny's Electric Bikes
With suspension that is optimized to evenly spread grip between the front and rear of the bike for greater traction on the trail and buttery smooth feel when riding over anything that trails can throw at you, all-mountain has become every-mountain.
crazylennysebikes.com
FlatSix911
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Both are great motors... I'll look for a comparison review.
Well to be honest, they saw that panasonic was always selling out and decided to join in about two years late.Thanks for sharing... a very cool integrated battery/shock/frame design.
Yamaha is getting serious about its expanded EMTB lineup...
Electric Mountain Bike YDX-Moro | Yamaha E Bikes
www.yamahabicycles.com
Electric Mountain Bike YDX-Moro PRO | Yamaha E Bikes
Yamaha E-Bike Accessories | Yamaha E Bikes
Official Yamaha e-bike accessories available include front and rear fenders, racks, combination and key cable locks and kick stands. Yamahabicycles.com
Hmm so far as I know, Yamaha is the only one right now that senses the angle to adjust the power.
Stefan Mikes
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G
Giant (using Yamaha motors) does the same.
yes since the sensor is inside the motor itself that would certainly make sense.
Naomi woods
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- USA
What great news you have shared. The electric mountain biking would be a great experience for occasional travellers like us. I am actually what kind of helmets they would prepare for these bikes. Would these bluetooth bike helmets or not?
By the way, for anyone interested, I ordered the service manual for this bike. It should arrive in about a week. It was pricy, but it should have interesting information about the wiring layout, debug modes, etc. I actually already have a manual for the PW-X motor. If anyone is interested in any specific information, let me know.
Assuming you got the service manual, does it show the proper torque setting for the two motor mount bolts on the Moro?
Amazing the user manual and and the documents on the Yamaha website do not give torque settings, just part numbers. I tried calling two authorized Yamaha bike shops and they don't have the info either.
Hey, thanks for that!
The diagram helped even more since I didn't even know about the other two bolts on the other side of the motor. I just saw two holes and assumed that there were nuts for those two bolts in the holes. Looking at the bike with a flashlight on the holes I now see the other bolts. But it looks like one of the holes is blocked by the chainring so it might take some time to torque that bolt.
I was asking about this because I was getting a creaking sound while pedaling. From past experience and reading posts about creaks here I suspected the cause could be loose motor mounts. I quickly tested the two 22 Nm bolts and they were quite loose. I'll check the other bolts soon.
I was able to loosen and tighten all of the bolts even with the chain ring there (Aleit just barely).
When I took apart the bike and put it back together to install the power stealing wiring harness for my light, I retightened everything to just 6nm because that was as far as my torque wrench goes. I can tell you that's not enough because I started getting creaking sounds after about 20km. The one beind the Chainring was the main Culprit. One I tightened them, the creaking stopped entirely. I have ridden about 40km after that to test it, and it seems no further issues.
For now I am carrying my driver set with me when I ride, just in case. Eventually I'll invest in a torque wrench that goes up to 22.
Also I didn't put loctight on anything since I figured I may be opening things up soon, which probably doesn't help.
Let me know if you need any other figures or anything.
When I took apart the bike and put it back together to install the power stealing wiring harness for my light, I retightened everything to just 6nm because that was as far as my torque wrench goes. I can tell you that's not enough because I started getting creaking sounds after about 20km. The one beind the Chainring was the main Culprit. One I tightened them, the creaking stopped entirely. I have ridden about 40km after that to test it, and it seems no further issues.
For now I am carrying my driver set with me when I ride, just in case. Eventually I'll invest in a torque wrench that goes up to 22.
Also I didn't put loctight on anything since I figured I may be opening things up soon, which probably doesn't help.
Let me know if you need any other figures or anything.
Last night in the darkness of my garage I only quickly looked into the holes where the two bolts labeled #2 in your diagram should go. I thought I saw some bolts, but when I looked in daylight today I don't see any bolts. I'm wondering if I'm reading the diagram correctly.
In the first photo below you see the two openings in the blue frame area (above the motor) in the lower left and upper right. The chainstay has been detached and moved a bit to see the holes better.
The second photo shows a closeup of the lower left hole and the third photo shows the upper right hole.
In the lower left hole I don't see any bolt, just threads. Did the bolt fall out some how?
In the upper right hole it looks like the head of the bolt may have broken off, but I'm not sure. There was a loose washer in that hole which is removed in the photo.
Also, in the third photo there are two holes in the motor. Compared to the upper right hole in the blue frame, these holes are in the black area and one is directly below and one is to the left and a bit below the upper right blue hole. I see threads in those two motor holes. Are they missing bolts too?
This is very strange since I didn't even know those two bolts existed before and thus never tried adjusting them. I guess one bolt could loosen and fall out over time, but I don't see how a bolt head could break off.
I do have about 1000 miles on the bike, most all from riding in spring and summer of this year.
Does your shop manual give the part numbers of the apparently missing/broken bolts, lock nuts, and washers? Unless I'm missing something, I guess I have to order some parts from a Yamaha ebike shop. Also, the four bolts holding the chainstay seemed to be torqued to about 15 Nm before I removed them. Does your shop manual show if that is the correct torque for those four bolts (for when I put it back together)?
In the first photo below you see the two openings in the blue frame area (above the motor) in the lower left and upper right. The chainstay has been detached and moved a bit to see the holes better.
The second photo shows a closeup of the lower left hole and the third photo shows the upper right hole.
In the lower left hole I don't see any bolt, just threads. Did the bolt fall out some how?
In the upper right hole it looks like the head of the bolt may have broken off, but I'm not sure. There was a loose washer in that hole which is removed in the photo.
Also, in the third photo there are two holes in the motor. Compared to the upper right hole in the blue frame, these holes are in the black area and one is directly below and one is to the left and a bit below the upper right blue hole. I see threads in those two motor holes. Are they missing bolts too?
This is very strange since I didn't even know those two bolts existed before and thus never tried adjusting them. I guess one bolt could loosen and fall out over time, but I don't see how a bolt head could break off.
I do have about 1000 miles on the bike, most all from riding in spring and summer of this year.
Does your shop manual give the part numbers of the apparently missing/broken bolts, lock nuts, and washers? Unless I'm missing something, I guess I have to order some parts from a Yamaha ebike shop. Also, the four bolts holding the chainstay seemed to be torqued to about 15 Nm before I removed them. Does your shop manual show if that is the correct torque for those four bolts (for when I put it back together)?
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