OK to feather my thumb throttle?

The throttle is a cool application of a magnetic sensor chip.
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There's a magnetic ring that rotates past the chip,.
View attachment 159611
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The chip is a three wire device, with power, ground, and output which varies from a half volt to 4 volts depending on the magnet position.
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The parts probably cost about 50 cents, and it took me about a half hour to reassemble properly after I opened it up.

I took mine apart too.
I always have to know how things work. 😂

I remember some people saying that their throttle stops working when it gets wet so I think that I'm going to take my throttle apart again and coat the computer chip with silicone to seal it.

I don't have my PAS sensor hooked up so if my throttle fails I have to pedal with no power assist.
I also decided to keep a spare throttle in my tool kit.

I've got quite the collection of throttles. Lol

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PS,.. The full twist throttle kinda sucks because it's too hard to hold it steady on rough roads or trails.
The half twist throttle is a better option because you don't have your entire hand on the throttle.
 
The chip is a three wire device, with power, ground, and output which varies from a half volt to 4 volts depending on the magnet position.

My Das-Kit throttle is all bass ackwards and it puts out 4 V at zero throttle and 0.8 V at full throttle.
Luckily, my full twist throttle just happened to work on my e-bike.

I think that the Das-Kit type throttle is rare though?
Das-Kit reversed all the male and female plug ends as well.


 
You should be able to get a better progressive throtle for your bafang

That may not work?
His Canbus controller may be programed to only accept an On or Off type of signal?

@Rome will have to try and find out how his Canbus system works.
He may be able to program the throttle to be progressive, but I have no idea how Canbus works?
 
That may not work?
His Canbus controller may be programed to only accept an On or Off type of signal?

@Rome will have to try and find out how his Canbus system works.
He may be able to program the throttle to be progressive, but I have no idea how Canbus works?
I have a CANBUS M600, and that throttle is as linear as anything else I have (no hint of on/off throttle operation)
 
Yes I have a few of those from samples and a couple that were included in kits. Over the years I've had quite a few customers complain that these budget throttles were not very precise and those builders often used and looked for Domino Twist Grip Throttles.
Really don't mind the Wuxing branded thumb throttles. I find them easy to feather.
Well discussed here. https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/throttle-that-works.49575/page-4

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Yes I have a few of those from samples and a couple that were included in kits. Over the years I've had quite a few customers complain that these budget throttles were not very precise and those builders often used and looked for Domino Twist Grip Throttles.
Really don't mind the Wuxing branded thumb throttles. I find them easy to feather.
Well discussed here. https://forums.electricbikereview.com/threads/throttle-that-works.49575/page-4

View attachment 159670
Yeah I think most of the problem is that people don't fully understand how to set the Start and End Voltages... well at least on the BBS*.
The inexpensive twist throttles I've used work perfectly but use a lower End and Start setting than the typical thumb throttle and unless programed as such you gonna get what you get.
 
Can it be use from a dead stop @AHicks ?
Because mine, depend on which gear I'm on when stopped a few times the front wheel will rise or chain will skip to another gear when hitting the throttle.
Yes, my M600 throttle works from a dead stop.

Your bike, with this "feature" came up a while back when you were messing with different throttles? I suggested then SOMETHING is wrong, but no clue how to help you with a bike that's not right in front of me.

If this is a pre-CANBUS motor, there IS an easy adjustment in the setup that can set the initial start up to be anyway you like it, from very aggressive (like you describe), to something you could hand to grandma without fear of startling her.....
 
My Wart Hog MD 750 is Canbus type motor, the Bafang 1/2 twist left hand throttle, works from a dead stop or moving (pedaling), the plastic sleeve I accidently left out/off is used to provide a slick surface between the 2 parts, so when you turn loose of the front part it returns back to the zero start place, by the internal spring pressure. With this plastic piece removed, there is enough friction between the 2 pieces to hold any speed needed.

I don't know if the 1/2 twist throttle will work in the "walk mode", will have to test it.
I know it works in ALL other modes/Eco choices, with the top speed of 14.5mph on the large rear 35t gear, and real close to 30 mph in the 11t road gear, while using eco 1 setting.

I would like to have a slower/lower speed when using the 35t gear, for the nasty spots/rock gardens etc, somewhere around 3-5mph, for trail riding.
I would believe would be perfect for what I want, I DON"T care for top speed,
unless I need to get home or sheltered place to be out of a rain/thunder shower,
then I have the 11t to move fast.
YMMV
 
Interesting how many different ways throttles are implemented. Apparently I got lucky.

Mine works from a dead stop as long as I'm off the brakes. It turns out to be progressive. Available max power is full motor power at every non-zero PAS level. Considering all the things you can do with a throttle — which go far beyond riding without pedaling — a very handy package.

My ebike is lower middle tier at best. But based on the rider experiences I've read here, Surface 604 did a very good job with the throttle setup and torque-sensing power delivery — another area where some implementations are much better than others. By all accounts, design decisions on these fronts can have big impacts on the quality of the riding experience.

Again, I got l lucky. No clue about all these important subtleties when I bought the bike. First-time buyers are operating in a bigger information void than they could ever imagine.
 
I put a bigger magnet in mine and now my bike can go 40 mph on throttle 🙃
Hi Gionnirocket,
Can you please post more information about how you changed the throttle magnet to increase your top speed? I have a spare throttle that I'd like to try your method on. Thanks.
 
Hi Gionnirocket,
Can you please post more information about how you changed the throttle magnet to increase your top speed? I have a spare throttle that I'd like to try your method on. Thanks.

That was a joke.

Actually though, a longer magnet would give the throttle more of a twist and more sensitivity.
 
Hi Gionnirocket,
Can you please post more information about how you changed the throttle magnet to increase your top speed? I have a spare throttle that I'd like to try your method on. Thanks.
This may not work on your particular motor / controller.

If you're a DIY'er, you can test it by emulating the hall sensor throttle using this wiring diagram which I also put in post #17:

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In order to get more speed from my motor / controller, I substituted 5K ohm potentiometers for the 2.2K and 2.7K fixed resistors. I adjusted the 5K pots and was able to get 30 MPH out of my 20 MPH class 2 bike.

I measured the resistance on the 5K pots and found maximum speed could be achieved using 1K and 1.3K ohm fixed resistors in place of the 2.2K and 2.7K.

These results will vary depending on the motor / controller combination. Testing or "breadboarding" is the only way to be sure.
 
Hi Gionnirocket,
Can you please post more information about how you changed the throttle magnet to increase your top speed? I have a spare throttle that I'd like to try your method on. Thanks.
Sorry dude... Not that I couldn't share my hack... but I would have to kill you after doing so. 🙃
 
This may not work on your particular motor / controller.

Thanks for the reminder.

I think that I'm going to give that another shot and make the complete circuit including the button batteries.
(I was using a 5V power supply)

I got half way through testing it when I figured out how to twist my thumb throttle housing.

I've got a Really nice motor controller potentiometer and varistors for testing. All I need is a micro triple pole double throw switch.

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I'm going to try and make that circuit instead of installing the ammeter/Watt hour meter that I don't really need.
I'm hesitant about splicing into my power wire to install that Gigantic shunt. 😂

My display's Watt meter is good enough.


@Litebike this project will give you a secondary throttle that you can use as a cruise control.
Your ebike most likely won't go any faster, unless you install a magic magnet from @Gionnirocket . 😂
 
Thanks for the reminder.

I think that I'm going to give that another shot and make the complete circuit including the button batteries.
(I was using a 5V power supply)
You may get erroneous results using a 5V supply. You need to find out the voltage supplied by the controller. The best way to do it is tap the throttle circuit. Do your tests on a bike stand with the rear wheel elevated. That way you get real world results by reading the speedometer.
 
You may get erroneous results using a 5V supply.

I was using this adapter and things weren't working.

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You need to find out the voltage supplied by the controller. The best way to do it is tap the throttle circuit. Do your tests on a bike stand with the rear wheel elevated. That way you get real world results by reading the speedometer.

I ended up plugging the throttle cable from my controller directly into the breadboard and I still couldn't get it to work properly. I couldn't get full throttle. I turned up the voltage until I got a throttle fault (above 4.2V) and it still wouldn't go to full throttle?

Maybe it's my potentiometer?
I do have a different one to try.

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This all happened while I was figuring out that my Das-Kit throttle was wired backwards and it goes full throttle at 0.8 volts and throttle off at 4.2 volts.

I was getting all confused. 😵‍💫

I'll start over fresh and make it happen.
 
The 1K ohm potentiometer shown in the last pic is the same one I use and it works fine. Your controller may be different though.

When I replaced the 2.3K and 2.7K ohm fixed resistors with the 5K ohm pots, it took a lot of experimenting to get the results I wanted.

I gave up measuring voltage. It's what the controller wants to see that's important. You've got the right idea by wiring the throttle circuit to the breadboard.

Are those 5K ohm pots on your breadboard good quality? A "noisy" pot, or one with flat spots can really foul up your results. I use these:


They are the same brand as the 1K .
 
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