Throttle that works

[Fast n' Furious]

FWIW, I don't know anything about the bigger stuff you are talking about, but the model ID tag on the KT controllers specify what they are looking for from the throttles pretty clearly.

If you open this link, you'll see you can enlarge that tag to the point it's easily read - specifying "speed set 1-4.2v"

Amazon.com: KUNTENG Controller, 48V 1000W 30A Controller, Electric high-Power brushless Square Wave Controller : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Buy KUNTENG Controller, 48V 1000W 30A Controller, Electric high-Power brushless Square Wave Controller: Energy Controllers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

That 15amp controller should work fine for a Domino then, but if you can change it 'speed' and '5v x 45v is recommended.
Your preference for thumb throttles advocacy is noted. Like on ES:

Re: Help me develop the perfect throttle​

• Quote

by AHicks » Aug 08 2019 7:55pm

"I prefer thumb throttles ..."

I wonder if we're on the same page. Have you ever owned a twist grip type throttle?
I can't really speak to your controller, but can say that "15 x 30amps" seems weird - only because mine is 20 x 22amps max.
W/ such a low 'nominal' do you overheat a lot or just go slow?
It's fine with me if someone limits their electric bike's capabilities detuning and sticking with limiting factors that reduce it's potential. Just a matter of taste - for sure.
Like when it comes to reducing 'bar cable/ wiring clutter', (as I'm doing w/ an Archer D1x). Dump the shift cable I think.
I make my own harnesses so I ordered the required Julet 9mm Base Connector 2Pin Cable Waterproof Connector w/ 1m wires.
It might be one short line from the throttle to the MT5's front brake Julet and a longer one to the rear brake's Julet plug. I may dump the whole connector for spade plugs.
The problem is the Julet plugs clearing the ports into the downtube/ batt compartment. Same issue WW ti bikes have.
My throttle's three (sheathed) wires ( signal, 5v+ and -) will replace my shift cable.

I think we would agree the essence of many things is their elegant simplicity.
As long as form fits function, I'm aboard.
My machine's an e-bike, but I'm fine with the assisted bicycle concept.
It's all good. Thank you for your take.

FWIW, I don't know anything about the bigger stuff you are talking about, but the model ID tag on the KT controllers specify what they are looking for from the throttles pretty clearly.

If you open this link, you'll see you can enlarge that tag to the point it's easily read - specifying "speed set 1-4.2v"

Amazon.com: KUNTENG Controller, 48V 1000W 30A Controller, Electric high-Power brushless Square Wave Controller : Patio, Lawn & Garden

Buy KUNTENG Controller, 48V 1000W 30A Controller, Electric high-Power brushless Square Wave Controller: Energy Controllers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Yes, I read the entire label showing your controller's settings, but I missed where they "specify what they are looking for from the throttles pretty clearly" parts.
I don't think the other settings listed are 'recommendations' either. They're the controllers 'use parameters', perhaps.
Pretty cool KT list them. Can you access them?
'Speed' is correct and best for throttle. '1v (low)' could also help the TT's inherently slow response, and 42v (upper) is only 16v from full charge (-38% of 'v' range available) at it's worst.
The 'instant power' (1v) setting could be problematic for (esp. nee bicyclists) e-bikers transitioning to high-powered machines - i.e. +160nm - 200nm nominal - who might be uncomfortable with a '1v' 'instant on' effect when they tap the throttle, but 1v's probably fine for <100nm machines running thumb.
So - per your satisfaction - there's some working settings for a thumb throttle with your machine.

• Throttle Mode: Speed
• Start Voltage: 1v (=,1V)
• End Voltage: 42 (=4,2V)

I found my stock controller setting 'okay' for my twist throttle too.
It's 1/4 twist, so the lag's about normal for a 100nm motor. Smooth. Consistent cruise speeds are easy.
I can always not use the throttle, but tired of pedal strikes burning through serious 'S' turns.
Not as lucky as you with the KT's listed parameters, I can extrapolate that I'm not set on 'current' (cruises great. no 'off- on' jitterbug problems) and that my upper 'v' setting is high enough for my display to show 960watts on throttle alone at 48v - that's 100% @ 48v, so I'm into my controller's '22amp max' rating zone and that should mean my upper setting is + or - a couple% of 48v.
Duh, right?
Walking this bike using the 1/4 twist grip throttle, the power comes on quick, but not at the first slight twist. It's easy to hold and modulate just the right amount of power for the bike on flat/ up ramps at any pace you like.
The power (rear wheel off the ground) comes on with very little (twist) input, but registers '0 power' output. That would change with 'load' in the equation.
'Quality' grade wire is available with either Julet or JST connectors preinstalled perfectly.
I've had nothing but trouble 'crimping' my own - and why would I when I still need to replace the low grade wire?
Straddled spade plugs in shrink fit work great for a throttles three (six with a Domino) wires.
I'm particularly fond of the F6 techflex self-wrapping woven sheathing for my wire runs.
Currently using 3/8" ....

... to house rear brake cable and five display wires in one bundle and the (soon to be removed) shift cable w/ three throttle wires in the other.
The 1/8" size can house up to six AWG26 wires in the same size profile as a shift cable.

If anyone else likes this sheathing, be aware I've used most all their products.
Every 'hook and loop' type I tried was a big FAIL that only added bulk, and the loosely woven types are not so hot - plus much more difficult to seal when cut.
-
I'm going with my Archer D1x (yet to be installed) and dumping the shift cable, not my throttle.
From, using my bike (w/ panniers) toting 80lbs of groceries (plus a case of beer in the front basket), fishing, or stripped down to 53lbs commuting, NO WAY I want to pedal everywhere, all the time.
To be honest, if e-bikes came only without throttles I wouldn't have bought one and ordered another.
But to each their own.

Fn'F

 

[Fast n' Furious]

This looks like an interesting throttle option. Would this be compatible with the Innotrace (Archon X1) controller?

Luna Right Twist Throttle For BBSHD and BBS02

Distributors and builders of life changing electric bikes.

lunacycle.com

There was a throttle project on EndlessSphere, here: ES 'perfect throttle' posts. Oddly enough, comments on the topic (to an engineer) were calling for additional features - requiring more hardware; switches; wires; controls - like regen and micro adjustable cruise controls. I say 'oddly' because ebike's were and still are far behind motorcycle throttle technology/ capabilities.
I followed up on Motion Pro and it appears they failed with e-throttles.
DasDouble could be a knowledgeable person to contact for throttle advice.
One reason there's not a lot for ebikes is initially the market was nearly all ex-bicycle aficionados.
Things have changed and the market now there's a throttle on virtually every production machine.
While demand has (exponentially) increased, the economy of scale has not changed much (except for the worse).
A few years back, making higher end ebike throttles was just not profitable, but the demand that allowed Magura and Domino to limp along trying, ended up (last year) exceeding manufacturing/ availability by a country mile.
Since 2020 we've seen the allocation of Domino's units to retailers consistently OUT OF STOCK, unable meet demand and economic 'supply/ demand ratio' indicates full twist throttles are extremely popular.
As more ebikes are sold, demand grows with the less ossified riders, assuring forward momentum.
For me the utility of a throttle cannot be replaced by having to pedal for any input to reach the motor.
-
Wuxung also makes decent inexpensive twist throttle: Wuxung on Amazon. At $16.00 they're great to experiment with, but for long-term use the problem you face is the limitation on grips.
Perhaps that would be different using a half twist grip type - I have not, yet.
A big reason for me choosing the domino is the throttle/ brake cut-off wires. A must have for me.

 

[Fast n' Furious]

Here's my West Coast WattWagons titanium Cross Tour fattie - with OEM installed Domino's 0 - 5ohm e-throttle.
Great job WattWagons !!!


We concluded an Archer D1x was the only proper ticket.
My wiring changes included dumping that giant plug .

The Archer required a (left) Magura shiftmix adapter to fit perfectly ... Chop chop. Solder and shrink fit to Higo. Green wires go to a 5v cut-off switch built into the bar's ends, under the rubber.
BEWARE: We've concluded only the Archer (legacy) would work.
Any reliable understanding to the contrary, please post it and a photo.

The one and only 'Gumbo Bodacious'

Important, it's legal, I'm glad the stock firmware is correct and up to the task.
Engage throttle, Pedal Assist cuts out - you are now a CA Class II machine with throttle power ending at 20mph .
Use Pedals - throttle disengaged - you are now exclusively a CA Class III machine.
I've ordered the resistors required for tuning and I've installed a nifty on/off switch.
-
Performance: Great for first 2 Eco modes. A bit jumpy on take-off in level 3.
Sports mode (L1), we have a problem Houston. Yes it'll pull wheelies. Unacceptably jumpy.
An issue's 'the first third of the throttle throw is unavailable' - so you get a sudden jolt to 750watts.
I left it alone. (1) not into stressing the drivetrain like that and (2) not into stressing the drivetrain like that. Resistors will give me full range, so exploring those realms will wait - and I still may disable throttle for SP modes, or not.
No apologies for doin' what I want. Like to see a geriatric anti-throttle bicyclist lift Gumbo on his shoulder (If it was HIS bike. I won't have him drop MINE) .
Having done it before (on my other rear hub), I had an idea what to expect and Yep, no surprises.
I'd ordered the Domino on this bike prior to this thread as part of my plan. So I'm blazing this trail for my Ultra powered WattWagon, running innotrace firmware.
-
A major reason for a Domino is the vast selection of arguably the best cycle grips ever made.

The good: There's 'hard; hard inner/ soft outer; soft and very soft' cushion styles; various color schemes and thumb-guard variations. Grip is outstanding. Never slip on or mar bars. Extreme durability, 100% waterproof. Minimal weight/ no screws/ clamps required.
Price? Buy 2 - 3 sets of all rubber, Motorcycle grade grips for what you pay for a set of Ergons.
The Bad: You need compressed air to remove them - or just cut off and ruin. You're blessed with a garage, compressor's a must have.
Requires a slender nozzle, under grip, blow up with air and they slide off. Five seconds. Or, you can play Hulk Hogan vs Andre the Giant he-man WrestleMania - probably fail, and 50/50 damaging something.
Expect the left side grip's consequences. To remove Brakes, you must have faceplate, not slide-on clamp levers.
It's an application where one thing leads to another. You come here, expect to change stuff.
No other stock shifter will work.
No other faceplate (including the Archer stock) will work.
Using the correct parts, the wiring must be on top.
You need bars with the real estate.
-
Those (Gum Color) Daytona Grips are Vintage '80's - hard inside/ softer (but still pretty hard) outer. Did I mention the rubber (esp the older ones) last and last?

Hey, ride on ... until you get there !!!

Fn'F